"My dear lady, I should be delighted to stand behind you with a pencil"

Caroline joined us on November 17th. John and Angela joined us on November 24th. Thanksgiving in Rome was something I will remember for the rest of my life.

On the Wednesday before Thanksgiving, we visited the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. Even out of season, I expected lines and delays. It could not have been smoother. I made reservations online. We were up and out to the Metro station and the "A" line by 9:30AM.  It was raining and we complimented ourselves on planning well. A rainy day at a museum is prefect. Three stops, we are within 1/2 mile walk of the Vatican. Another quarter mile, we enter the museum.

You can tell how long the lines must by the barriers set up. I show the receipt on my smartphone and we are touring the museum an hour earlier.

It still is crowded. There are the "flags on a stick" guides with bored looking followers in clear view. You have to be patient in front of major exhibits and there is little time to read. The Rafael rooms (3) are the worst. Tour guides seem to love Rafael. I am not sure why. First, Rafael did not paint. He designed the frescoes and his school of apprentices executed the design.

Rafael style is definitely transition to a more romantic vision of painting - the men and women are muscular ( Michelangelo's women look like men with breasts). I believe that Rafael got paid by the number of figures he could squeeze into a ceiling or wall. Rafael then had his "team" complete his vision. But, the Popes must have loved him and I do not think he worked cheap.

Michelangelo had a prep team for the Sistine Chapel but he did the painting (Michelangelo apparently painted the ceiling standing up and leaning backwards and forward as needed).

The museum is so much more than sculptures, Rafael and Michelangelo. I enjoyed the Etruscan exhibit rooms tremendously. Betty and Caroline enjoyed the Egyptian rooms and I did not even find those rooms.

The crowds become larger as they rush towards the tours' goal of the Chapel. Also the rooms become smaller. The rooms were designed as private offices or audience rooms for the Royal Popes of History.

We found that in museums and at ruins, we move at different pace. So we are quickly separated. I arrived at the Sistine Chapel well before Betty and the kids. After the smaller rooms, you notice the size. You enter from altar side of the chapel. From the ceiling, you are entering on the first day of creation. The center is defined by the creation of man. God reaching to touch Adam to give life.
The chapel is, of course, full but there is strictly enforced silence by staff. The no photo rule is enforced. Still tourist try and somehow the guards see it and are firm.

I am glad that we came in 2014. The restoration was completed a number of years ago. The restoration team left small sections of the paintings as they were before restoration. It is noticeable. The colors are exceptional. As with Renaissance paintings, the reds, blues and yellows are brilliant.
Da Vinci's paintings are idealistic, but real. Michelangelo paints his vision of what should be. Men - old and young - are powerful, muscular and stern (no hint of smile). Michelangelo paintings are homage to Greek sculpture with a brush.

Still, you are in awe of the beauty. I spent about 45 minutes observing the art from various part of the chapel. The imagination required. The execution overwhelms. I understand that with Michelangelo death, the next period of art is called Mannerism - attempt to emulate Michelangelo.

As by accident, we are all reunited in the chapel. Betty purchases Vatican stamps as souvenirs.

Caroline and I, of course, mail two postcards to get the postmark.

We are at the museum for over five hours.

On Thursday - Thanksgiving.

I think we had dinner at a restaurant near the apartment. The food was excellent. The service was personal and attentive. What I remember was the house wine was perfect. With other restaurants, the house wine comes in a pitcher or glass chafe , at this restaurant , it is their bottled wine in full bottles or half bottles.

Starting to come down with a cold again so my memory of what the primo piatto was is hazy. But, what I do remember is that Italy is full of these great little restaurants that you can walk by. Then, you discover it is white linen, attentive and refined service and great food. This restaurant was started in 1947 at same location by the father.

Love Italy.

"You must have shot an awful lot of tigers, sir"

What can I say.

Last day in Rome and Italy. We will be home sometime the afternoon on December 1st. It is Christmas in Rome. The stores and streets are decorated. The weather is definitely changing. We have been very fortunate the last two weeks. Late November weather is the wettest part of the year in Rome and the weather forecast earlier in the month was ugly. But, only 2 raining days out 14 was more than we expected.

I have learnt a great deal during the last two months.

I will miss the restaurants greatly. They are small and seem to be independently owned. You would like to believe family but that would be projecting. The menus are traditional- antipasto, primo piatti, secondo piatti and dessert. The restaurants' menus are Italian and English subtitles commonly. We did stay way from the restaurants with English first. We did run across a leather store in Rome that in big yellow letters stated only in English "Made in Italy". Can you say "china". It is a large problem in Italy. There is a big push for "made in Italy". Everything in Italy including truffles is buyer beware.

My experience with truffles is mixed. Presuming that as with all things - there is "good" and then "great", I would say truffles I had were "good". It is an acquired taste. The more often I had, the more I began to enjoy to taste. It is a slightly pungent taste. I had with eggs and the shavings were more than you usually receive. The taste you get from US olive oil with truffles at Traders Joe is a facsimile of the taste.

We have toured the Northern Italian cities where tourism is a major contributor to economy. The people we met deal daily with hordes of tourists. English is the universal language You do see some Chinese, but usually higher end stores. So you are never sure whether it is tourist "truffles" or Italian truffles. I had truffles in Parma and Siena and they are not high tourist areas and the restaurants were local. Truffles are a common ingredient.

October and November are ideal months to visit. Granted it rains. But, Betty and I could not imagine what Rome or Florence must be like with 90s and the huge crowds.

Gelato is pretty much what you have heard. It is very rich. A high content of cream. The traditional order is to large scoops of two different gelatos -- my favorite is strawberry and chocolate - topped with a scoop of cream. Then, a wafer is added to top of the mountain of calories waiting on top of a small cone or paper cup. and that is the small order.

Of course, the quality and cost vary. Never a bad experience. In Rome, Rick Stevens got it right (see I can give Rick a compliment) with his recommendation of Giolitti near Trevi Fountain.

Italians never dress down. Seriously, I do not remember a sloppy sweatshirt or dirty running shoe in our whole trip. If and when I saw one, it was a tourist.

In Florence, Siena and Rome on my morning walks, I saw stores specializing in tailored uniforms for hotel maids among other occupations.

Italian men do sport the popular unshaven look. But, you are confident that only after a half hour in front of a mirror.

Women never are seen without make-up - not just lip gloss. You seldom see flats. It is heels and tights. Every shopping block has a store selling Calzedonia leggings. Great commercial with Julia Roberts.

Scarfs are everywhere. I am sure that a reason that it was getting chilly. But, it is a common accessory for men and women. I watched a Kevin Costner's movie "Three Days to Kill" (not as bad as critics stated - they missed that this is a Luc Benson genre film - think critics not appreciating Roy Roger) and sure enough there is the scarf around Kevin's neck.

The Italians have multiple styles of scarfs and methods of tying. None of which I figured out. So around the neck once was my style.

I have developed a taste for an aperitif called an Americano and for Campari, in general. After a long walk in the afternoon, a glass of Prosecco for Betty and an Campari for me.

I think Betty and I figured out the cause of the greatness of Italian cooking and why it is not the same in US. First, everything is fresh. The cities are old with narrow streets not accessible to trucks - definitely not semi and often not even delivery trucks can reach to the restaurants - so all deliveries are by hand truck and are one day of produce, fish, meat etc..

Secondly, energy is expensive in Italy so there are no large refrigerators.

Italy is a country of small farms so produce tends to be local and fresh. Fish is plentiful since almost all cities are near water You do not see that much chicken on the menus - lots of seafood and beef. Definitely, no turkey.

But, it is the pasta. I am sure a lot is handmade, but I am just as confident that it is the same Barella that you buy at Safeway I what you get at Italian restaurants. The difference is the preparation. So the center of the meal is not the sauce, it is that tender and slightly chewable pasta.

The ingredients are fresh. No garlic. Lots of basil. Tomatoes are not Roma or paste. It is olive oil, basil and cherry tomatoes. There are cream sauces. Did not see Pesto featured.

Cheeses are a big part of menu and cooking. Italian cheeses are so much more and better than what we associate with Italian cooking. There is variety - soft and hard. The cheeses of Parma and Siena were spectacular.

The last few days with Caroline, John and Angela were unbelievable. I have a few more blogs to go. We had one power convertor and six devices so access to the computer was limited. We did so much.
Next Pompeii.

"Is this an elevator" "No it is my room"

Sorry for not blogging sooner.

Caroline arrived on Tuesday which has been great. The Acer computer has been acting up so between trying to charge 5 devices, sightseeing and problems, blogging has slowed down.

Rome is a walkable city. The caveat is that you have to be willing to walk five to ten miles a day. I am reminded that Chicago is also walkable. In Chicago, if you stay downtown, you can walk to Cubs Ballpark, Greek Town, Museums, Zoo etc. Los Angeles and, I presume Tokyo and London are not in the walkable cities category.

In walking Rome, I have decided that the Popes were graffiti artists at heart. If it did not move for an hour, one of the Popes put up a marble plate saying "I was here". Every fountain and other Roman monument has one side the Caesar and on the other a "pope was
here". The most active seems to have been Pope Pius VII.

I walked again to the Vatican area. It was a sunny day so I found my way to St. Peter Square (actually, it is an oval). It is immense. Mickey Mantle could not hit one out of this ballpark. It was Saturday so the crowds were large. The line to get into St. Peter circled the Square. The line did move so the crowd was quiet and expectant.

I am sure that I am not the first to comment about the juxtaposition of the Vatican to its surroundings. It is a metaphor to the issues facing Catholicism. The real world of human problems and existence comes right up to its walls. The walls are formidable - thick and 3 stories high with guards. The offices and residences look down on the streets from heights which make the street sounds as if white noise.

Within the Square, itself,  the human predicament persists. Tours, selfie poles and other souvenirs sellers apply their trades with the unspoken guidance "buyer beware". The big one is "tour the Vatican". I can see why. The size of the complex: a new language and crowds would make anyone seek the safety of a person saying "I will take care of you - for 80 euros (@ $100).

There is an isolation to St. Peter's. You are in awe but I was actually more impressed by the Colosseum as a work of man. I did not think of God as I walked around. I thought more about the history and the crowds of people.

And "Yes,"a Pope put his name and his family name on the door. It is interesting to me that the Pope who first envisioned the St Peter demolished stone from the Colosseum to begin construction.
I know that there are always discussions about the Papacy as the inheritor of the leadership of Catholicism (right now, I bet the American bishops are saying "that is the last Jesuit we ever vote for - could have told them). The conservatives point to the unbroken line of popes. They negate quickly the Avignon Captivity, multi Popes, the children born and a woman pope (more than one?).But when you are in Rome and see the churches etc. all referring not only the Pope but his family, y

ou realize that the papacy was part of the political intrigue of the ages. The papacy was owned not borrowed. I think we are moving away from that.

I got a haircut in  Rome. I needed one and I decided if anyone could cut my hair so that it looked like I had more hair it would be a Roman barber. Okay, no more hair. But, it is a great haircut. It is a true barbershop. When you walk in the door, there is a jovial greeter. There are four barbers. When it is your turn into the chair, Fernando puts the customary sheet around your neck and then puts cotton balls around your neck to be more comfortable. No razor or buzzer, it is all scissors and comb. Thirty minutes later he finishes. It is "thank you, Signor John". It is remarkable how much good nature and hand gestures can make a good conversation. Not inexpensive, thirty euro - about 35 dollars. But, in line with the service.

Yesterday, Saturday, we visited the Rome National Museum. The museum is located near the Piazza de Republica and the Temini train station. It is an excellent museum. Just well thought out. Three floors of statutes and floors and interiors of Roman villas dating from 300 BC to 300 AD.

The museum makes it interesting by explaining each exhibit in ways that you can relate to.. For example, the bust of romans are often dated by their hairs styles (Augustus wife was definitely the trend setter).. The discussion of periods of decorations are discussed in light of the history of Rome so you can see in the art the events of history.

The day before we visited the Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria. The last work begun by Michelangelo at 86. His design was serious modified by subsequent Popes. A very unassuming entry opens into an impressive Neo-Renaissance Church. A portion of the Baths of Diocletian were incorporated into the church. This particular building survived because it was one of the earliest churches of Rome and far enough from the center of ancient Rome to avoid the  various "Sackings of Rome".

The church only covers a small portion of the Baths area. Roman Baths were huge complexes with multiple buildings, gardens and libraries. This Bath covered an area with now includes the Piazza de Republica (google the Piazza to visualize the size) and beyond. The remains include parts of walls of the major structures which appear in the oddest places. One is now a public garage. We are eating lunch with Caroline and watching cars navigate a very narrow opening into the garage. Slowly, it becomes apparent that it is a ruin.

It must be difficult to decide what ruins to retain and what to demolish. It is only within the last 50 years that Rome has been protected. You realize this when you visit the Forum area and learn that most of what you see and experience is the result of work that began in late 20th century.

"They gave us such a great room"

Yesterday I went for a morning walk. I like to orient myself to the city. Looking a maps - particularly tourist maps - is never enough since they never give distances.

l followed the direction we had used to locate the Spanish Steps. Ahead I saw in the distance what I now recognized as the Victor Emmanual Monument. White marble with bronze horses on top, you can see the top easily from a mile away. As I walked the Via Nazionale, I began to realize that I was walking towards the Forum and Antique Rome. Down a flight of stairs, there is Trajan's column. There is Trajan Forum, Augustus' Forum and Imperial Forum. Then, I see the Colosseum in the distant.

There is no traffic just people walking and reading. As you get closer the crowds are larger, the Colosseum is huge. I read Rick Stevens' comment that the Colosseum is impressive only because of its engineering. He is wrong. If the Grand Canyon is impressive because it is a really large ditch dug by a river, then I will grant that the Colosseum is only a testament is Roman Concrete.

I wish Bill was here to explain this all to me. It is all that I have read and viewed on the History and Discovery Channel. When you see this ancient Rome, you understand more about the history of Rome. Why things were so immediate to these people. They walked. They did not have to wait for a cab.

Your first thought is that there must not be any clay left in Italy. Romans are famous for concrete and stone, but what you realize is that every building's core is red brick. Think about it, buildings over 6 stories high made from brick that has lasted over 2000 years. We do not make brick that solid today.
Your second thought is that the ancient Rome was much lower than present Rome. I am always interested in how things like weather and changes in topography affect history. We see the past through our lives and present environment. For example, at one time Rome was located far near its port city of Ostia.

Later in the afternoon, we went for a long walk through Embassy Row. Embassies are easily identified by the Italian soldiers parked at the gates.

Our destination was Hard Rock Café. After 6 weeks, I really wanted something American. We found out that the Hard Rock is very popular with everyone. I had pulled pork sandwich which was great. The Margarita was delicious.

The Hard Rock is in the Via V Vento area which is definitely up-scale. The area reminds you very much of Paris. A broad avenue lined with trees.

In Rome, you move centuries with a turn of the head.

Today - Sunday - was moved date. We are now in the apartment. What a great location.

"I rejoice to say I did not"

We are in Rome.

We arrived yesterday by train. Thanks to Caroline. We were aware of the transportation strike today - Friday - so we arrived without a problem. Strikes and demonstrations seem to be the norm in Rome judging from our first day here. But, they are orderly and good natured. The police are out in force. Helicopter churns above. A lot like Paris. Demonstrate in Siena, no coverage. Tie up traffic in Rome and it is news.

Not sure what the rules are because trains and buses seem to still run. Taxis are not at the stand but if you call they still are on the street. There are rules but I am not sure what they are. But, thanks to Caroline, I do not need to know.

Like Paris, protest marches are a penalty of living in the city.

Great hotel. Just off the Temini (major train station) and very nice. Again, we have an elevator out of  the "Bourne Identity" or "Third Man". This one is cooler than the others because it is a cage with double doors to open before the gate door. Gregory Peck looking at Audrey Hepburn comes to mind.
We have our first shower curtain. The joy is short lived with a shower head in a ridiculous position so you shower quickly.

We saw a little of Roma today.

Rome is different than the other Italian cities we visited. More of a big city to feel to it. The cars are bigger and more limo drivers. Mercedes dealership in Rome is making out alright.

All I have ever heard is about Italian drivers, particularly Rome, is that they are crazy. My opinion is the same comment I made in other cities - they know where they are going. You do not. The streets here confusing And, just like New York, Chicago or LA, they do not suffer hesitation easily. Just like driving and walking in the Loop before Daley took the sport away.

The Spanish Steps

For example, they have crosswalks in Rome. Step off the curb and the drivers will stop. But, it is the same faith in the certainty of life that a matador exhibits which each pass of the cape. ""It should work. The bull will keep his head down and will not hook with his horn". Step off the curb and enjoy your own "Afternoon in the Sun".

We walked to the Spanish Steps in the morning - about 30 minutes. I cannot image what summer crowds must be like in Rome. Every tourist we have met begins or ends in Rome. We have met people who have toured Rome in two days. It would be hard. Sistine in the morning and Colosseum at night. Can be done but why. "Always leave something undone in life so that you don't know when the journey ends". Now there is a quote to look up.

Rome is taller than I thought with more curved buildings to go with curved streets.  Florence and Milan do feel like small cities next to Rome. Every building is a monument. In Florence, the buildings are 600-800 years old. In Rome, they really are ancient. They are everywhere. In some cases, they do not even try to name them.

We saw the Victor Emanuel Monument by accident. It is huge. It is excessive by any imagination but some how it fits into the city.

Victor Emmanuel Monument

View from the top of the Spanish Steps

From the top of Spanish steps the view is panoramic. The steps themselves are a little of a bust. Only 138 steps, it is a jog to the top. The people watching is excellent. The city changes at the Steps. It becomes more urbane and more tourist. The big hotels begin at the Steps.

We quickly visited the "Trevi Fountain". Unfortunately, it is being repaired. Watching the work being done, I understand why. The workers are carefully removing water scales from the fountain stones. The fountain is the façade of a building - honest. Can you imagine how it must look. It is in a very small piazza. I have no idea why the fountain exists. It is formidable in size. I think part of the attraction is that it is a surprise. You turn a corner on narrow "via" and there it is.

You can still throw a coin in the fountain for your wish. We did.

We have meant a lot of interesting people. In Siena we met a lady from New Mexico by way of Seattle who was traveling Italy by herself. Her husband decided to stay home.

Today, we met a couple from Jackson, Mississippi. They had toured Venice and Florence before Rome and saw more than we did in those cities.

What is interesting is everyone does it differently. Some are "check list" tourist. Some are interested in the adventure. Some for the history. I think we are the adventurers. We want to learn about the people and places.

"Why can't they all be California girls"

We are still in Siena. Tomorrow if all goes well, we will be going to Rome. The weather has been wet for the last few days. There is flooding in Genoa, Carara, Florence and Pisa. Rome has had some flooding, but not terrible.

Caroline let us know that there is a National Transportation Strike scheduled for the 14th. We should be in Rome by that time. We will be walking a lot that day.

Elevators in Italy are small. Now that I think about it every elevator in Europe has been small. I think the reason is that the buildings are 200 years or more in age with walls 3 feet thick. When you redo this type of building, there is not a lot of room for elevators.

European electrical outlets are interesting. Europe is 220 watts as opposed to US 110. When you go shopping for a European trip you buy an adaptor, you also need to purchase a convertor. In this communication age continually charging with one convertor is a pain in the ... .  The electrical wiring makes it a little tougher. In Europe, they do not put outlets on outside walls. The hotels do not have a surplus of outlets to begin with. And, they have two types of outlets - flat and fitted. Convertor only works with flat. So when you arrive the search is on.

They speak of the French Paradox. Trust me, there is an Italian Paradox. The Italian eats a breakfast of "un caffe"and a brioche or bread with lunch meat and cheese (local). Lunch can be a quick panino which is heavy on the bread (delicious) with local cheese, light touch of local cold cut and slices of tomato or a pizza about 12 in in diameter. Commonly, lunch includes a glass of wine or beer. Or, it can be a bowl of pasta. Salads can be hard to find. Lunch time is roughly from noon to 2 PM.
There is a gelato at @ 4PM. Dinner is no earlier than 7PM. Dinner includes wine and includes antipasto and one pasta dish. And, there is always bread - good bread and you are expected to eat it - you want to eat it.

Wine is relatively inexpensive. House wines are great and come by the glass, 1/2 liter or one liter.
Italians walk a lot - I mean a lot. Italians do not snack between meals. The portion are controlled. At dinner, everything is "la carte" which keeps the portions controlled.

In the 5 weeks we have been Italy, it is obvious that there is no obesity epidemic.

Another observation which was confirmed yesterday when I bought a sweater. The sales woman mentioned that I would need a large, large size because, as she put it, Italian men are narrow in the shoulders chest and hips. I am none of the above. This explains why Italian men just dress well. Style is made for them. It also explains why present men's fashion looks bad on American men. They can wear those suits and jackets and actually button them.

I always thought that places like Beverly Hills, Santa Monica, Dallas had beautiful women. But, Italy has them all beat. I thought it was "the big city" thing. We have been to Parma, Como and Siena and I am impressed.

Now the bad news. Italians, of all ages, smoke a lot. You see a lot of "roll your own" among the college age kids. Italians do not smoke inside, but do just about any other place.

Yesterday, we took our first real tour. We took a tour of the S
iena side of the Tuscan wine (Chanti) country. I do not completely understand but because of centuries of conflict Tuscan area is split between Florence influence and the Siena influence.

Although it was overcast, the views were spectacular. I was interested in the area because  the Paso Robles area of California has been called "Tuscany with Cowboys".

There are definitely similarities with rolling hills with olive trees and vines. The area we saw resembled the Vineyard/Las Tablas area. Vegetation is more diverse. So similar, but different.
We saw two Chanti Classico registered wineries. I am truly impressed with the wine of the first winery. Short lesson on "Chanti Classico", true Classico will have a "black rooster" emblem wrapper on the neck of the bottle. Chanti Classico has to be, at least, 80% Sangiovese.

There is also a growing popularity for "Super Tuscany Reds".  These wines are a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabrenet Sauvignon. Both wineries do both wines - personally, I preferred the Chanti Classico.  There are grades of Chanti - Chanti, Chanti Classico,  Chanti Classico Reserve and Chanti Classico Grande.

I definitely want to learn more about Italian wines. I am impressed.

"Horse Races in Siena"

We are in Siena, Italy.

It is a beautiful city. A medieval city built on a very high hill. We arrived in rain on Tuesday from Florence. The Italian train system is efficient and easy-to-use. It is so easy to use that you get nervous that you did it right. We used the Regional train to get to Siena.

We had a chance to see the Tuscan countryside. The topography does resemble the Paso Robles - hills and valleys. The vegetation is much different. The difference is that it rains. The vegetation, at least, in the Siena area reminds me more of Michigan.

Also, we did not see great many vineyards from the train. But, they must be there. We have had local wines several times.

We picked up a bottle for dinner the first night and it was delicious. We went for dinner last night and the house wine was great. We have found that in Italy you can order the house wine by the glass, 1/2 liter and full liter.

Betty had spaghetti. I had a steak. I know you think "steak in Italy". Tuscany is famous for their beef - "bistecca". It was one of the best steaks I have ever had. They do not ask how you want it. There is only one way - rare. It is aged steak and it is grilled.

In Italy, there is antipasto; then primo piatto (first plate): secondo piatto and then dessert. But, in today's world, this is very fluid. Order and split the antipasto, share the primo piatto and then share the secondo piatto.

It is sacred in Tuscany. Dinner is never served before 7:00 PM or 7:30 PM. It is every restaurant. So early dinner. Even pizza is difficult to find. Gelato or tavern around 5 PM works since the check never comes. Sit and wait. Eight PM is ideal.

My "Parisian" umbrella is holding up well. Want to not loss your umbrella, have one that does not work. But, I can tell as I walk by others that they are envious. I look so cool with my left hand holding the umbrella open in a driving rain storm.

I now have my second adventure. We were given a glass horse in Venice about 9 inches high. I volunteered to try to get the glass horse home in one piece. I am now in my third week and it is still in one piece.
Siena is home of one of the "wide world of sports" events - like the running of the bulls in Pamplona.
In Siena, each local district enters a horse and rider in a race around the El Campo (city piazza). I have seen on TV and thought it was colorful.

Now, that I have seen the course. These guys are both crazy and very brave. They ride bareback. The course is impossible. It is narrow with right angle turns and it is up hill and then down. They do in 8 times.

We are staying in a great apartment in Siena. It has been raining. Rain off and on is forecasted for the next 8-10 days. Rainy days are not bad. Towns change into villages of umbrellas. Everyone has an umbrella. I think you notice because people walk. In the U.S., we run between the mall and the car.
Tomorrow, the weather will improve for the weekend so we may go on a tour to see other towns in Tuscany.

Florence and Leather

We have been in Florence for six days. I have met a young lady from Albania. Now, that is not as easy as it may seem. I ask you "have you met someone from Albania". There are a lot of students in Florence. Apparently, James Madison University, and I am sure other Universities, have student abroad programs in Florence.

Impressions of Florence are numerous. First is the motorbikes. They are somewhere between motor scooters and motorcycles. At intersections, they sound like a motor cross race has begun. Driving a car in Florence is not easy because of the streets. They are not streets. They are hints of alleys and change names constantly. These passages are often 20 feet across or less. In that space, there are parked cars on one side and tour buses passing on the other. In short, top speed for a car is 10 mph. Moreover, streets are not straight and often end with a choice - right or left. Both choices lead to streets were auto traffic is prohibited. So, tourist driving is not recommended. There is no room to pass. Driving a car in Florence is an invitation to wait for a procession.

Enter the Italian motorbike. The drivers are the rulers of Florence. Laws and civilizations do not apply to them. Lords of the Flies with horsepower. They rule. They roar down the street passing through gears. They are actually seem to racing. Their brothers on the LA freeway are in more danger but the Florentian brothers are enjoying the ride.

The second thing you see and hear are the buses. What are tour buses doing on these streets? But, they do it. They turn right corners and left corners. There are all sizes of buses - tour buses, commuter buses and small commuter buses. They deal with parked cars, motorbikes and foot soldier tourists.
It feels Michigan Ave and Randolph Street in the 60's when walking and driving the loop was a sport.
On Sunday, we saw the grandmother of all traffic jams in Florence. Nothing was moving. There is justice for the pedestrian.

We visited the Uffici on Saturday. We have visited the two greatest museums of Pre-Renaissance and Renaissance art in the world - The Louvre and The Uffici. I now have a hint of how much I do not know. Simple things are evident. First, art changed radically from 1480 to 1530. It was a revolution. You can see it with the viewing of a single painter, Botticelli. His early paintings are the flat, lacking perspective of the late middle age. Within 20 years, his work and subject matter is earthy, sensual and Renaissance.

The food of Florence is great. We have stopped eating pizza. Pizza is great. But, there is so much great pasta.

Breakfast of strong coffee. Lunch with a glass of Prosecco. A caffe for the walk to the hotel. And a glass of Classico Chanti with dinner. Maybe, a grappa for after dinner.
It is a great life.

"We are in Florence"

We left Parma on Tuesday morning.

Parma

Parma is not a tourist city. It is a working city. We had a time change on Sunday. One of the problems with not being proficient in the language is you miss the news. Fortunately, I noticed that stores were still closed at 2:00 PM. After thinking that they must be wrong and I was right, I looked at my phone.

Italians, in general, are very proud of their cities. It is common in a conversation to be asked "how do you like". They smile when you tell them how much. The conversation becomes very animated and full of questions.

View from the balcony in Parma 

When we say are from California or Chicago, the remarks are often that they plan to visit some day.
Occasionally, you do met someone who is rude. But, remember, how often that happens in normal daily activities in the US? It is not that the person is Italian or French. It is that that person is rude to everyone, most likely, his mother.

We had the best waiter at the hotel in Parma, Giuseppe. He is smart and personable. He is the type of guy you enjoy being with. He was there for breakfast (7-10 AM), the bar (5-7-30PM) and then dinner (7:30-10PM). He was there all three days at the hotel.

Where the image of Italians as not hard working people came from - I do not know. But, it is not our experience.

Typical Regional Train

We have become experienced in the use of Italian trains. There are three types of trains - regional, Trenitalia and Italotreno. Think Metra, Amtrak and really, really fast. We take the Regional back to Bologna and by happenstance and some planning, we select Italotreno to Florence. The train reached speeds of 300 km or 186 mph. And, they have free Internet too.

We have met a great many really great people traveling Italy. On Tuesday, we met a great couple from Ireland.

I have noticed that Italians smoke a lot. You cannot smoke in buildings, but outside is legal. Remember Italian is the birth of "la fresca". I have noticed that the smoke does not seem to be an issue. Strange. I have, over the years, become sensitive to cigarette smoke and I do not smell the smoke. The smokers are discrete.

Smokers are young and old, men and women. Tobacco shops are common and are more like general stores. If you want a bus ticket, train ticket or cell phone, you look for "tabaccheria".

We arrived in Florence a little after 1 PM. We went to our "go to place" at train stations - MacDonald's. I know. I know. But, it works and I get to order in Italian (or, at least, my attempts).

Florence Hotel to Left

As always, Betty guides us to the hotel in short order. The hotel is in a great location. We are within a few blocks of Ponte Vecchio.

Since we will be in Florence for eight days, we got a chance to use a local Laundromat. Love "Speed Queen".

There is an actual tour in Florence based on Dan Brown's Inferno. I broke down this evening and purchased the book on ITunes.

Tomorrow, we start serious sightseeing. It is a beautiful city and the weather will be great for the next few days.

"You've such a lovely temperature"

Notes from Italy. We are now 20 days into our adventure. It is time to reflect on the odds and ends of the journey.

We are now in Parma. I like it a lot. It is Sunday. Nothing starts in Italy much before 10 AM on Sunday, especially, true in Parma. The restaurant menus do not have English subtitles and every other store is not Armani or pizza. Parma is a city of banks, churches, doctors, lawyers and people. Last night we ate at the hotel. The appetizer was Prosciutto di Parma and slices of Parmigiano cheese. We shared and could not finish. It was delicious. Betty has great success with picking our residences and this one is great.


So odds and ends.

In Italy, panhandling and begging have been raised to the status of performance art. The beggars stay in their roles. They dress the part. As an example, yesterday we are passing through Milano Centrale Train Station on the way to Parma. A bent over small old lady with a cane shuffles by with a small cup in her free hand reciting over and over her prayer for money. Now, normally, you feel a pang of guilt. But, after 20 days, you have seen the same costume including cane in every Metro and train station in Italy. So you say no.

In Venice by the San Marcos Cathedral front door, a woman lays in a "pieta" position with head cast downward and she does not move for the 35 minutes I watch.

Back to the lady in Milan, about 40 minutes later, you see the station police slowly following her out of the station in a golf cart. But, what is great is the woman does not break character - if any, she is going slower to piss off the cops. You can see on the cops faces that this happens 2-3 times a day with the same woman.

It is not humorous - but it is a divine comedy played out in a train station.

Train and Metro Stations are prime pickpocket areas. Also true of any crowded area. I wonder if Italian guide books say about Chicago?

The most common dodge is the "help the tourist or confused traveler". I will mention that Italian trains and metro are easy to use, fast and efficient. But, the first time, it is a little confusing until you discover the ticket machines speak 7 languages and take all cards and cash.

As you walk up to the ticket machine a helpful voice in English says "let me show you" or "where are you going". They seem like and act very official. And they are helpful and remain courtesy. But, they expect politely a gratuity. If they get one great, if not so be it. So it is performance art. I still remember fondly the 14 piece orchestra in the Paris at rush hour playing Schubert.

Italy is a nation of small farms and small shops. That is a compliment. We have now traveled a good part of northern Italy and it flat and plowed land of small farms. There are no Walgreens, Home Depot, Costco etc.. There are small shops everywhere.

Italy is a nation of eating and drinking. There are bars, restaurants of all description everywhere. Caffe (Coffee/expresso) is price regulated. So every expresso is 2 euro or less.

Italy's cities character are defined by its relationship with water. Venice is obvious. Florence, Rome, Como are their rivers and lakes, even Milan looks to its river.  It is true of most cities. Even Phoenix is defined by access to water. But in Italy, it is more the character of the city that is defined.

After twenty days of travel, I have some comments on my fellow travelers. First, any man wearing shorts will within 55 minutes of coming within your line of vision do something rude, stupid or both.
Germans travel in twos and fours ignore everyone else and drink beer. The French travel in twos speak French to themselves about everyone else. Australians are everywhere in small groups. There are so many Australians traveling you wonder who stays home. I am reminded of the Canadians who occupy Palm Springs, Phoenix etc. in the winter. How?

The Japanese and Chinese tourists travel in a parallel universe. It is the only explanation on how they can walk as if you are not there. They literally walk through you. I have seen it. They are at their worst with a camera. They lift their camera and they expect you to disappear.

I agree with Mark Twain the worst travelers are the English. Whether in couples or groups, they are rude. The English have escaped to Italy for centuries to the - "the Grand Tour". Part of the problem is magnified when one of the group thinks he speaks Italian as a native. Now, they are a lot better than I am. But, it is the condescending manner they use. Secondly, the English have this Pound Sterling to the Euro thing going. Europe is actually cheap to them at about a 30% discount. Finally, English are English and therefore, they are superior to all the colonies. They do not hesitate to remind you that you are not English.

Americans in couples are okay. With anything larger, they look bored or becoming bored. They have that look that they have seen it before in Disneyland and it was cleaner and cheaper. In groups they are  "flag" followers. In these tour groups, they do not try to interact. See rule #1 on shorts - the English and Americans wear shorts a lot. And, it 65 degrees out and cloudy.

These observations are based on a limited sample. We have meet a lot of great people on the trip. We have only had one poor experience with a waiter and it was a small thing.

Good story. We had ended our ferry tour of Lake Como at Varenna - Rick Stevens recommendation. He forgets to mention all the places he recommends are 3/4 mile walk from the ferry pier. So we have lunch. Homemade pasta by the lady owner. Wine was "vino de casa" and the sun was warm. We finished and were waiting for the ferry to take us to Bellagio . Betty had to use the washroom and ,of course, the ferry arrived. I ran in asking the lady proprietor to tell Betty the ferry had arrived and we needed to rush. It takes time. The lady then yells in animated Italian to ferry workers that cannot leave without us and they have to hold the boat for us.

They do and did so with style and joviality.

Next, Como and Parma.                                        

"I should have mailed it to the Marx Brothers"

"Does it have a receipt"

Our last day in Venice was sunny. Sunshine definitely changed the city.

On Tuesday, I walked the Grand Canal until I reached the Italian Naval Academy. As on the other three days, there was a light overcast. My observation is that it is the light that defines Venice and Paris. Paris light is for painters. When you look to the sky on a sunny day, you see an Impressionist blue and clouds.. It is remarkable. They painted what they saw.

In Venice, it is a writer's light. You see the sun on the water but it is a haze. The light makes you introspective. It is a poet's delight. Over a long period of time, it gives you a feeling of isolation. Together with the feeling of separation because of distance from land, I can see why poet's and writers gravitated to Venice.

Did you know that Richard Wagner lived in Venice and wrote about Venice. He actually died in Venice. A strange end to a strange dangerous man.

We enjoyed Venice. On Monday, we sat the Piazza San Marco. An orchestra played favorites like Love Story, Mary Poppins etc. I had an Irish Coffee and Betty had a Latte. We sat for over an hour watching the people and listening to the band. The only interruption was when we ordered the very popular cocktail in Italy called the Veneziano- sorry it is not Harry's bar "Bellini". The Bellini was not any menu we saw. The Veneziano is everywhere and anytime. Basic ingredients are Prosecco and bitters.

We walked  to the Rialto Bridge and, at noon, stopped for beer. We crossed over the Rialto Bridge. The bridge is an engineering monument. In order to hold the weight of the span's traffic of 600 years ago and today's tourist trade, the footings are over 100 feet deep- and I thought the Rialto was a movie theater in an Andy Hardy movie.

We took a Gondola ride. It is something you have to do. We were fortunate Betty and I had the Gondola to ourselves. The experience was worth the money.

You become aware in the early morning that every item - milk, beer, bread, napkins, garbage - has to be hauled in or away by hand cart. Venice has no back lot like Las Vegas or Disney World where the trailers or lift trucks show up after show time to unload 5 tons of produce. It is one cart at a time. Under those circumstances, the prices are reasonable.

The one thing I missed in Venice is coffee bars. Paris is the best. Stop anytime and anywhere are order a cafe' or beer and sit and talk. Milan was different but in Milan, coffee is a religion practiced often.

In Venice, there are no cafe'. There is a ton of restaurants, bars and wine shops. It is easy to sit with a glass of wine. But, coffee is not worshiped. I like worshiped.

But, pizza is everywhere. It is relatively inexpensive and ranges from acceptable to very good. The pizza is more like California Pizza Kitchen than Pizza Hut in style, but is better and fresher. Not sure how the locals feel about pizza, but it is inexpensive.

I have started seeking sandwich bars. Again, one price if you stand and another if you sit at a table. We have discovered that there are sandwiches it is called "toast". Simple, but good. The toast has meat and cheese between two slices and bread heated on a panino grill.

I am learning to like the sandwiches of Italy. For one thing, the bread is better. Overall, the taste and texture is more earthy. The panino of Italy is totally different than Panera's. It is spicy. Italians use mustard, who knew.

I think -with a big "maybe" - that I starting to get familiar with the Italian language. I listen now and I catch a word here and there. I hear words now. The speed seems to be slowing down. I almost ordered our lunch without embarrassing myself. Very forgiving people.

Today - October 2, we are on our way to Como, Italy. The weather turned cooler today so we will see what it is like in Lake Como.

"I am the Napster"

We arrived in Venice via the train from Milan about a three hour pleasant train ride. As we walked out of the doors of San Lucia station, it is the grandeur of Grand Canal. It is huge span of water with all kinds of boats navigating the canal. My guess is over 600 yards( I am sure at some points close to half a mile) and I could be way off. You are overwhelmed by the size and immediacy. Then you are overwhelmed by the question - how do we get to the hotel from here. Then realty is where is the hotel?

Betty quickly figures out that the public transportation is called Vaporetto - it comes and goes. It is a long boat ride and San Marcos is the last stop. It is inexpensive at 7 euro. A water taxi is 75 euro. And at 1.28 exchange rate that it is lunch and dinner. We take the Vaporetto and learn a lot about today's Venice.

Venice is still a working port. As we motor by we see three to four huge cruise ships docked in the port area. Yes, there are a number of refineries within view of the harbor area. I will remind the reader that area around Disneyland in Anaheim, California ruins the illusion also. I think it is what you concentrate on. As the boat turns back to San Marcos, Venice achieves what you have seen in the photos and movies. Of course, they some how remove the huge number of tourist from the movie.

This brings me to Rick Stevens. You have no idea what an institution this guy is. He is a cult leader. He is on PBS and he sells his tour books, but, he has guided tours. We have run across three groups of people waiting for their turn to be lead around Italy by his approved guide.

We have developed a love/dislike relationship. He is like the kid in grade school who always raising his hand. But you are afraid to call his bluff. He was invaluable in Paris, helpful in Milan and confusing in Venice. Now, to his defense, no one - not even Google map - can explanation how to get anywhere in Venice. There is no logic. I am sure that the doge did it for defense. An army of a 100,000 would soon be lost in the maze and after days without food surrender to their fate.

For example, walking direction to our hotel went on for 4 pages and it was about a 25 minute walk.

Glass making on Murano Island

On Sunday, we took a tour to the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano is famous for glass and Burano is famous for lace. It was great. I learnt a lot about glass and that Murano glass is so highly sought after that the Chinese are making knock-offs. Burano was also interesting, but the highlight was lunch. The food was simple and good - but a pitcher of the house Prosecco for 7.50 euro was great. As usual, the check never arrived and we just sat ate desert and wondered why not.

Venice was built by merchants who took advantage of their location to dominate trade for over 600 years. Venice remains a city of merchants - salesmen. There are stores or restaurants with little in between. Venice relies on the tourist trade for its existence.

When Sheldon Adelson chose to design and name his Las Vegas Casino, the Venetian, I wonder if he realized that Venice is the original "what happens in ..." city. Venice is famed in history for its decadence. Casanova lived here. Particularly, from 17-19th century, Venice was sin city. The city lived off the wealth developed during its dominance in trade. Actually, about the same today, lines of tourist follow guides with colored flags into one line and out into another while the guides talk to themselves in a mic hung around their neck. Venice still lives off the vast wealth and excess that built these buildings on piers in a swamp. Think of it - every stone was rowed or sailed miles everyday for years to build these island cities.

Venice has Carnivale. It apparently puts Mardi Gras to shame and every Englishman is here on business. It is the mask which differentiate Venice version of excess from the runner ups. Those mask are a big business - Yep, again, made in China.

Tomorrow - San Marcos Piazza - Piazzo San Marcos

"What I learnt about Milan"

"What I have learned about Milan"

We arrived on a Sunday afternoon at Hotel Da La Ville. It is a great boutique hotel located within a quick walk to the Duomo which is the heart beat of Milano. The Piazza del Duomo is always crowded regardless of weather. This week we have seen rain, drizzle, clouds and sunshine.
I have discovered that there is a street in Milan named after every person who has ever lived in Milan.

I have discovered that what you want to order is a Caffe' Macchiato. Try that at your local Starbucks and see what you get.

I discovered that in Italy pastry is ordered by saying "brioche" that includes croissants, muffins and a great round pastry filled with chocolate, crème (lemon) etc. "Brioche" is pronounced "bree-oh-chay". Next question is how do know what to pay for?

Answer is simple - you order and pay the cashier first. You take the receipt and hand to the person behind the counter. Then you point. Everyone points and asking questions.

La Scala Opera

The pastries are delicious. Again, everyone is helpful. They want to practice their English. Short story. On Thursday, it had been a long day and I was sitting on a step to the museum bookstore. A very nice lady walking here dog saw me and asked in Italian if I was alright. Her concern was so evident that it was easily communicated. She really wanted to help.

Which brings me to another lesson of the week - say "Americano" and most Italians will quickly assume you are in trouble and will help whether it is ordering, directions or standing in the wrong line.

It appears that Italian men like the French men are,

in general, are shorter than the women. I know that is a gross overstatement. But, it sure appears true when you see couples walking - and it is not necessary the shoes. By the way, you do not see the high stilettos as you do in USA. But, you also do not see flats. Women wear heels everywhere.

Everyone dresses. I have not seen a woman without makeup or a man that has not groom perfectly.

I also learnt that short showers are common in France and Italy. The hotels in Paris and Milan had large bath tubs with folding shower doors which only cover half the tub length. The shower heads are hand held. It is not easy to lather with one hand and rinse with the other while trying to keep your balance. The results are that you move fast.

Milan is a beautiful city, but it is working city. People move quickly when they walk and they smoke a lot. Sit outside and there are ashtrays on the table. Walk down the street and there will be the fragrance of tobacco smoke in the air. Marlboro seems to the most common. Knew I should have bought that stock.

The Weather was wet the first full day in Milan. My Parisian umbrella performed well. It does not stay open due either because of either an engineering error or it is broken. Best guess, it is broken. But, I compensated by acting cool and holding the umbrella open. I figured if John Travolta in "Get Shorty" could convince Hollywood that a mini van was cool. I would have no problem. And it worked. No laughter. Of course, I was moving fast.

The Duomo is the fourth largest cathedral in the world. It is in the flying buttress style and made of marble- completely. Considering it took over 600 years to complete - imagine the poor nobleman stopping his local interior designer every 50 years or so and saying "what do you mean you can't find marble". It is the Steve Wynn theory of architecture - if a little is good, why not go for hideous.

The interior was a learning experience. I did not realize that they have mummies in churches. I should have known better. I know that English bury in the floor of their cathedrals but at the Duomo they are in these glass case with silver death masks.

The other unusual experience is a statue of Saint Bartholome. He was allegedly skinned alive. So, the statue is of a man skinned wearing his skin as a robe placed over his shoulder.

On Tuesday, we went to museum that had an exhibit of Da Vinci notebooks. There are over 400 pages in the Alantis Codex (it is the largest and contains Da Vinci notes and treaties of Art. By the way, Da Vinci argues that painting is the prefect form.

On Wednesday, we went to a Castle. Milan is great you can walk a lot and see a lot. The castle's defenses were improved by Da Vinci. Honest, it becomes evident the man never, never slept.

The Castle is huge and impressive presence. Made of brick - again, pity our Italian nobleman trying now to find brick for his summer home.

The castle has an extensive Egyptian collection. When consider the Louvre's, the British museum, the University of Chicago, Berlin Museum and this collection,  egyptology redefines "looting".

We had breakfast every morning at cafes across the street from our hotel. After our favorite waiter took his days off, we changed allegiance to the café down the street. The yogurt was great but the brioche selection was more limited.

My last lesson in Milan was the discovery of a great aperitif - Americano. It is made with bitters (I have learnt that bitters is made with 100 proof volka) so it is a very relaxing drink. Two of them are really relaxing - I will pass on dinner.

One the last day, we had a great time investigating the mercantile wonders of Milan.

Saturday, we packed up for our travel to Venice. We have mastered the Metros of Paris and Milan. We have now mastered the Italian rail system (hint -it is great and easy to use). I was my usual courageous self and let Betty figure it out. But, I did buy Coca Cola Zero for two as my contribution.

A three hour train ride and we arrive in Venice and the Grand Canal is outside the station door. It is an afternoon sun and the colors are stunning.

Next - Venice for three days.

"If you will forgive me for being personal - I do not like your face, M. Ratchett"

Night Train to Milan.

I am very lucky. Betty is a wonder. Betty communications to everyone regardless of language. It is fantastic to watch people react to her friendliness. When I get lost, she is there asking and getting us back on the trail of that museum. We need information Betty finds it.  That talent was needed on trip to Milan.

It was a great adventure. We checked out of the Paris hotel about noon as required. Leaving our luggage at the hotel, we took a walk to the Luxembourg Gardens. Parisians use their parks. They walk, run, play boules, tennis and sitting. We sit and watch and discover everyone plays. We watch a gentleman practice and he is impressive. Maybe, he is a professional. At twenty feet, he can hit one ball with another consistently.

There are chairs everywhere. Runners are everywhere.

Then, what else, lunch. We stop at a restaurant we have walked by several times called "Select". We met another two ladies taking a "Rick Stevens' Tour. Again, the food is great. Betty had French onion soup and Fries (they put ketchup on the table). I have a great salad and, of course, a glass of wine.
Now, the age old problem, how early to the train. We elect to go early since we are not sure on the rail station; how to get there and if it is the right station. We have read horror stories.

Of course, we do everything right and have 3 hours to kill. No Internet (do not believe the travel guides and Rick Stevens on the Internet everywhere). So we sit guarding our luggage. Not a lot to do and my nose is running badly. I am now a frequent visitor to Starbucks for napkins. Yes, Starbuck is here and in numbers. You recognize the décor, but the menu is different, but "wow" on the pastries.

We watch the big broad as if the "rapture" depends on it. First hour and no listing for our train. We reassure each other that we are at the right station and the right "hall". Second hour, we are starting to question and plan for panic. Finally, our train is listed. Then, it appears. Next to the sleek French train, the engine looks worn and the coaches look restored and not in a good way.

Tello is a privately owned railroad which operates only this one train from Paris to Venice. Being a true democrat I have my worst fears realized - my life and well being - I am at the mercy of an Italian Capitalist.

We push forward to find Coach 95. The First car is 97. The next is 89. The Internet is full of stories of reservations not being honored etc. We find 95 next to 96. Both are at the other end of train. Betty and I have on our heavier coats on. We carry our backpacks together with luggage so we are hot and uncomfortable. The coach is clean (reasonable) but other than that the coach is the "before' in "before and after' series on HG TV. By the way, clean and reasonable did not apply to the washrooms.

The lady conductor comes by and in order to calm nerves tells us it her first day on the job. Please hand over your passports and I will give them back at Milan.

The compartment is for two and is a sleeper. Everything is out of bad movie - "I Love Lucy' where Lucy disappears into the hidden closet or the pull beds from the wall. There is a ladder to the upper berth which is about eight feet from the floor. The lower berth when pulled from the wall is about four feet still enough to damage ego and bones. The conductor tells us she will return at 10 to show us how to set up. Never shows - there goes our passports.

We did get coupons for sparkling wine and morning coffee, croissant, juice and applesauce (rewards for those survive the night). The wine is in airplane size glass. The range of people are fantastic and interesting.

About 2 AM, the train stops and it does not look like Milan. More like something out of zombie movie. And we stay for two and half hours. Betty finds out that we are at the border and something is wrong. There goes our passports again. But now, we feel reassured that the whole train suffers our fate.

Moreover, we are not unhappy that the train is late. We can check in at 2 PM and train on schedule arrives at 6 AM. The long delay is a blessing.

We arrive at @ 9 AM and are passports are returned. Getting off a train in a strange country is both exciting and terrifying. We read just before we leave the train our last instructions from Rick Stevens - Alert, pickpockets outnumber passengers. As you get off the train, they take a numbers.

Tired and unsure of language and customs, we find a great food court. Really, cool.

First lesson of the day, in Italy you order from the cashier and then give the receipt to the order filler.

Second lesson, coffee is not café with cream as in France. Italians do not have the concept of coffee with cream. To them, it is an American thing and this is Italy.

Third lesson is that there are tons of great looking biscuits, muffins and croissants and you cannot figure out what to call them so you order croissants a lot.

People are helpful and we get coffee and croissants. We sit. At 10 AM, we move to MacDonald's and to wait. Two cheeseburgers and fries later on and it is noon.

MacDonald's is everywhere in Italy (no drive thru). They are set up with a café on one side and the grill on the other. The McCafe is set up more like a café. You only order caffe and brioche. The grill side has the MacDonald standards plus sandwiches like Salime with cheese.

We are accustomed to Metro systems now and after Betty deciphers ( I have given up for now based on my track record), we arrive at the Duomo - all roads in Milan go to the Duomo.

The Hotel De La Ville is great and great location. And we are getting better, we only walked around for fifteen minutes before finding it. Again, Betty asked and this great lady stopped what she was doing and walked us to the door. I think she looked at me and said this woman needs help.

We are within 3 blocks and Cathedral Duomo.

Tomorrow - what I learned about Italy.

"He went to Paris for answers"

Sorry about the delay in blogging, I had a cold that slowed me down. We still did a lot. But when I got to hotel, I was short on energy.

On Friday in Paris, we walked. By now, we were experienced Metro Riders so we got quickly to the Citi'. Riding the Metro in Paris is the  history of France. Want a Louis- any Louis - take the M1. Want the Revolution take the M4 and transfer to the M1. Want the Bastille, get off at the Bastille stop.

We started Friday at Norte Dame. We stopped and had coffee.. We really got into the coffee thing.

The cathedral front facade is imposing, but not awe inspiring. Perhaps, that reflects the Middle Ages view of God. There were the expected crowds in front and a line of athletic-minded tourists on the left side of the cathedral ready to climb to the top of the bell tower. By the way, the sound of the bells are cool. They apparently retire bells. Along the side of the Cathedral, there are bells neatly stored and they have names.

The real views of the Cathedral are the rear and the view across the Seine. The Cathedral is a narrow long structure which makes sense once you think about Middle Age construction and the limitations of the flying buttress It is the view of the rear of the Cathedral that instills grandeur. It is the ascension of the buttresses and the spires that has inspired the painter, the photographer and the postcard.

There is a lovely garden and then, the bridge over the Seine where lovers and couples symbolize their unending love with brass locks. There is a adman for a bike lock company somewhere saying "Harry, I told you it would work".

Crossing the bridge, we wandered the Left Bank. Left Bank does have a feel to it. For the first time, I feel that I was walking somewhere that I have read about. Let me explain. I have always been a great reader of Hemingway. I love the Nick Adams stories. I have read "The Sun Also Rises" three times (this book and "Catcher on the Rye" I read the beginning of every decade to see if I grown up yet). I actually enjoy the "Movable Feast". This romanticism of Hemingway took us to the "Shakespeare & Co.".

The store is an active book store. There is a small section for the expected "Lost Generation" authors. But, there are best sellers and wide range of titles. There is a very interesting section on the store and its owners.

The defining moment was the reading room. You climb an old narrow staircase with books on both sides. Then, you pass through an anteroom and a door. It is a photograph. It no longer takes imagination, you are there. Hemingway just left for coffee. Fitzgerald forgot his lighter. For that second in time, it is your reality. It is the window and the light. Not a Woody Allen fan, but he got the light right.

You see it in the blue sky and the clouds. The impressionists painted what they saw.

Enough. I did learn that European buildings follow the decimal system with a zero, the ground level floor is "0" so our fifth floor room is actually on the American 6th floor - (trust me you get use to it).

After the bookstore, we went to lunch. Betty has great instincts on restaurants. Trust me it is not easy. There are restaurants on every corner since in Paris. And there are often six corners to an intersection. This great restaurant was just down the street from the bookstore.

I discovered that waiters do not speak English. They speak "waiter" language which is useful in Spanish, Italian, English, Chinese etc.. They know how to take your order in all those languages.
Our waiter was the exception. He was not fluent but he knew how to make communication fun.

"Do you want your group photo taken. Of course, let me take it again. You need to smile."

"Where is the washroom" and with a smile, he says we don't have one and starts to laugh as he points the stairs.

I had a ham and cheese omelet. Betty had chicken and said it was delicious.

After lunch we began to walk. We crossed the Pont Neuf - who said the French had no sense of humor.

We walked along the Seine using the lower level closer to the river. We came back to street level at the Lourve. We walked the gardens of Louvre. 

As we walked about 9 miles this day ( I have a Fitbit). We saw the Eiffel Tower. Actually, I saw the top of the Eiffel Tower. I realize how small "Tourist Paris"is.  Like Chicago, if you stay within the tourist areas - you see but do you know? We were fortunate because of Betty's plan to stay in a small boutique hotel in the very non-tourist and very hip neighborhood of Paris called Luxemburg Gardens. Together with my failures with the Metro and the adventure of the train from the airport, we got a broad view of Paris.

Late afternoon we strolled the Champs Elysees with cool weather, sun and clouds.

The Champs Elysees is in two sections. The first section we walked was a park. It is a broad typical French park. There are two pedestrian lanes on each side lined with matching trees. The footpath is granite dust. Formal at the same time informal.

The second section is the shopping. The French have learned English as part of their shopping experience. There is Gap, Banana Republic and Nike. But, they do have a five story Louis Vutton.

We stopped for my beer (I order Beer because I can say the brand) and Betty ordered coffee. We stay and people watch. Everyone does it. The check seldom comes quickly and we rest.

We take the Metro back to the hotel and view the Eiffel Tower fully. Next time.

Tomorrow, the Night Train to Milano.
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