Caroline joined us on November 17th. John and Angela joined us on November 24th. Thanksgiving in Rome was something I will remember for the rest of my life.
On the Wednesday before Thanksgiving, we visited the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. Even out of season, I expected lines and delays. It could not have been smoother. I made reservations online. We were up and out to the Metro station and the "A" line by 9:30AM. It was raining and we complimented ourselves on planning well. A rainy day at a museum is prefect. Three stops, we are within 1/2 mile walk of the Vatican. Another quarter mile, we enter the museum.
You can tell how long the lines must by the barriers set up. I show the receipt on my smartphone and we are touring the museum an hour earlier.
It still is crowded. There are the "flags on a stick" guides with bored looking followers in clear view. You have to be patient in front of major exhibits and there is little time to read. The Rafael rooms (3) are the worst. Tour guides seem to love Rafael. I am not sure why. First, Rafael did not paint. He designed the frescoes and his school of apprentices executed the design.
Rafael style is definitely transition to a more romantic vision of painting - the men and women are muscular ( Michelangelo's women look like men with breasts). I believe that Rafael got paid by the number of figures he could squeeze into a ceiling or wall. Rafael then had his "team" complete his vision. But, the Popes must have loved him and I do not think he worked cheap. Michelangelo had a prep team for the Sistine Chapel but he did the painting (Michelangelo apparently painted the ceiling standing up and leaning backwards and forward as needed).
The museum is so much more than sculptures, Rafael and Michelangelo. I enjoyed the Etruscan exhibit rooms tremendously. Betty and Caroline enjoyed the Egyptian rooms and I did not even find those rooms.
The crowds become larger as they rush towards the tours' goal of the Chapel. Also the rooms become smaller. The rooms were designed as private offices or audience rooms for the Royal Popes of History.
We found that in museums and at ruins, we move at different pace. So we are quickly separated. I arrived at the Sistine Chapel well before Betty and the kids. After the smaller rooms, you notice the size. You enter from altar side of the chapel. From the ceiling, you are entering on the first day of creation. The center is defined by the creation of man. God reaching to touch Adam to give life.
The chapel is, of course, full but there is strictly enforced silence by staff. The no photo rule is enforced. Still tourist try and somehow the guards see it and are firm.
I am glad that we came in 2014. The restoration was completed a number of years ago. The restoration team left small sections of the paintings as they were before restoration. It is noticeable. The colors are exceptional. As with Renaissance paintings, the reds, blues and yellows are brilliant.
Da Vinci's paintings are idealistic, but real. Michelangelo paints his vision of what should be. Men - old and young - are powerful, muscular and stern (no hint of smile). Michelangelo paintings are homage to Greek sculpture with a brush.
Still, you are in awe of the beauty. I spent about 45 minutes observing the art from various part of the chapel. The imagination required. The execution overwhelms. I understand that with Michelangelo death, the next period of art is called Mannerism - attempt to emulate Michelangelo.
As by accident, we are all reunited in the chapel. Betty purchases Vatican stamps as souvenirs.
Caroline and I, of course, mail two postcards to get the postmark.
We are at the museum for over five hours.
On Thursday - Thanksgiving.
I think we had dinner at a restaurant near the apartment. The food was excellent. The service was personal and attentive. What I remember was the house wine was perfect. With other restaurants, the house wine comes in a pitcher or glass chafe , at this restaurant , it is their bottled wine in full bottles or half bottles.
Starting to come down with a cold again so my memory of what the primo piatto was is hazy. But, what I do remember is that Italy is full of these great little restaurants that you can walk by. Then, you discover it is white linen, attentive and refined service and great food. This restaurant was started in 1947 at same location by the father.
Love Italy.
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