"You've such a lovely temperature"

Notes from Italy. We are now 20 days into our adventure. It is time to reflect on the odds and ends of the journey.

We are now in Parma. I like it a lot. It is Sunday. Nothing starts in Italy much before 10 AM on Sunday, especially, true in Parma. The restaurant menus do not have English subtitles and every other store is not Armani or pizza. Parma is a city of banks, churches, doctors, lawyers and people. Last night we ate at the hotel. The appetizer was Prosciutto di Parma and slices of Parmigiano cheese. We shared and could not finish. It was delicious. Betty has great success with picking our residences and this one is great.


So odds and ends.

In Italy, panhandling and begging have been raised to the status of performance art. The beggars stay in their roles. They dress the part. As an example, yesterday we are passing through Milano Centrale Train Station on the way to Parma. A bent over small old lady with a cane shuffles by with a small cup in her free hand reciting over and over her prayer for money. Now, normally, you feel a pang of guilt. But, after 20 days, you have seen the same costume including cane in every Metro and train station in Italy. So you say no.

In Venice by the San Marcos Cathedral front door, a woman lays in a "pieta" position with head cast downward and she does not move for the 35 minutes I watch.

Back to the lady in Milan, about 40 minutes later, you see the station police slowly following her out of the station in a golf cart. But, what is great is the woman does not break character - if any, she is going slower to piss off the cops. You can see on the cops faces that this happens 2-3 times a day with the same woman.

It is not humorous - but it is a divine comedy played out in a train station.

Train and Metro Stations are prime pickpocket areas. Also true of any crowded area. I wonder if Italian guide books say about Chicago?

The most common dodge is the "help the tourist or confused traveler". I will mention that Italian trains and metro are easy to use, fast and efficient. But, the first time, it is a little confusing until you discover the ticket machines speak 7 languages and take all cards and cash.

As you walk up to the ticket machine a helpful voice in English says "let me show you" or "where are you going". They seem like and act very official. And they are helpful and remain courtesy. But, they expect politely a gratuity. If they get one great, if not so be it. So it is performance art. I still remember fondly the 14 piece orchestra in the Paris at rush hour playing Schubert.

Italy is a nation of small farms and small shops. That is a compliment. We have now traveled a good part of northern Italy and it flat and plowed land of small farms. There are no Walgreens, Home Depot, Costco etc.. There are small shops everywhere.

Italy is a nation of eating and drinking. There are bars, restaurants of all description everywhere. Caffe (Coffee/expresso) is price regulated. So every expresso is 2 euro or less.

Italy's cities character are defined by its relationship with water. Venice is obvious. Florence, Rome, Como are their rivers and lakes, even Milan looks to its river.  It is true of most cities. Even Phoenix is defined by access to water. But in Italy, it is more the character of the city that is defined.

After twenty days of travel, I have some comments on my fellow travelers. First, any man wearing shorts will within 55 minutes of coming within your line of vision do something rude, stupid or both.
Germans travel in twos and fours ignore everyone else and drink beer. The French travel in twos speak French to themselves about everyone else. Australians are everywhere in small groups. There are so many Australians traveling you wonder who stays home. I am reminded of the Canadians who occupy Palm Springs, Phoenix etc. in the winter. How?

The Japanese and Chinese tourists travel in a parallel universe. It is the only explanation on how they can walk as if you are not there. They literally walk through you. I have seen it. They are at their worst with a camera. They lift their camera and they expect you to disappear.

I agree with Mark Twain the worst travelers are the English. Whether in couples or groups, they are rude. The English have escaped to Italy for centuries to the - "the Grand Tour". Part of the problem is magnified when one of the group thinks he speaks Italian as a native. Now, they are a lot better than I am. But, it is the condescending manner they use. Secondly, the English have this Pound Sterling to the Euro thing going. Europe is actually cheap to them at about a 30% discount. Finally, English are English and therefore, they are superior to all the colonies. They do not hesitate to remind you that you are not English.

Americans in couples are okay. With anything larger, they look bored or becoming bored. They have that look that they have seen it before in Disneyland and it was cleaner and cheaper. In groups they are  "flag" followers. In these tour groups, they do not try to interact. See rule #1 on shorts - the English and Americans wear shorts a lot. And, it 65 degrees out and cloudy.

These observations are based on a limited sample. We have meet a lot of great people on the trip. We have only had one poor experience with a waiter and it was a small thing.

Good story. We had ended our ferry tour of Lake Como at Varenna - Rick Stevens recommendation. He forgets to mention all the places he recommends are 3/4 mile walk from the ferry pier. So we have lunch. Homemade pasta by the lady owner. Wine was "vino de casa" and the sun was warm. We finished and were waiting for the ferry to take us to Bellagio . Betty had to use the washroom and ,of course, the ferry arrived. I ran in asking the lady proprietor to tell Betty the ferry had arrived and we needed to rush. It takes time. The lady then yells in animated Italian to ferry workers that cannot leave without us and they have to hold the boat for us.

They do and did so with style and joviality.

Next, Como and Parma.