"What I learnt about Milan"

"What I have learned about Milan"

We arrived on a Sunday afternoon at Hotel Da La Ville. It is a great boutique hotel located within a quick walk to the Duomo which is the heart beat of Milano. The Piazza del Duomo is always crowded regardless of weather. This week we have seen rain, drizzle, clouds and sunshine.
I have discovered that there is a street in Milan named after every person who has ever lived in Milan.

I have discovered that what you want to order is a Caffe' Macchiato. Try that at your local Starbucks and see what you get.

I discovered that in Italy pastry is ordered by saying "brioche" that includes croissants, muffins and a great round pastry filled with chocolate, crème (lemon) etc. "Brioche" is pronounced "bree-oh-chay". Next question is how do know what to pay for?

Answer is simple - you order and pay the cashier first. You take the receipt and hand to the person behind the counter. Then you point. Everyone points and asking questions.

La Scala Opera

The pastries are delicious. Again, everyone is helpful. They want to practice their English. Short story. On Thursday, it had been a long day and I was sitting on a step to the museum bookstore. A very nice lady walking here dog saw me and asked in Italian if I was alright. Her concern was so evident that it was easily communicated. She really wanted to help.

Which brings me to another lesson of the week - say "Americano" and most Italians will quickly assume you are in trouble and will help whether it is ordering, directions or standing in the wrong line.

It appears that Italian men like the French men are,

in general, are shorter than the women. I know that is a gross overstatement. But, it sure appears true when you see couples walking - and it is not necessary the shoes. By the way, you do not see the high stilettos as you do in USA. But, you also do not see flats. Women wear heels everywhere.

Everyone dresses. I have not seen a woman without makeup or a man that has not groom perfectly.

I also learnt that short showers are common in France and Italy. The hotels in Paris and Milan had large bath tubs with folding shower doors which only cover half the tub length. The shower heads are hand held. It is not easy to lather with one hand and rinse with the other while trying to keep your balance. The results are that you move fast.

Milan is a beautiful city, but it is working city. People move quickly when they walk and they smoke a lot. Sit outside and there are ashtrays on the table. Walk down the street and there will be the fragrance of tobacco smoke in the air. Marlboro seems to the most common. Knew I should have bought that stock.

The Weather was wet the first full day in Milan. My Parisian umbrella performed well. It does not stay open due either because of either an engineering error or it is broken. Best guess, it is broken. But, I compensated by acting cool and holding the umbrella open. I figured if John Travolta in "Get Shorty" could convince Hollywood that a mini van was cool. I would have no problem. And it worked. No laughter. Of course, I was moving fast.

The Duomo is the fourth largest cathedral in the world. It is in the flying buttress style and made of marble- completely. Considering it took over 600 years to complete - imagine the poor nobleman stopping his local interior designer every 50 years or so and saying "what do you mean you can't find marble". It is the Steve Wynn theory of architecture - if a little is good, why not go for hideous.

The interior was a learning experience. I did not realize that they have mummies in churches. I should have known better. I know that English bury in the floor of their cathedrals but at the Duomo they are in these glass case with silver death masks.

The other unusual experience is a statue of Saint Bartholome. He was allegedly skinned alive. So, the statue is of a man skinned wearing his skin as a robe placed over his shoulder.

On Tuesday, we went to museum that had an exhibit of Da Vinci notebooks. There are over 400 pages in the Alantis Codex (it is the largest and contains Da Vinci notes and treaties of Art. By the way, Da Vinci argues that painting is the prefect form.

On Wednesday, we went to a Castle. Milan is great you can walk a lot and see a lot. The castle's defenses were improved by Da Vinci. Honest, it becomes evident the man never, never slept.

The Castle is huge and impressive presence. Made of brick - again, pity our Italian nobleman trying now to find brick for his summer home.

The castle has an extensive Egyptian collection. When consider the Louvre's, the British museum, the University of Chicago, Berlin Museum and this collection,  egyptology redefines "looting".

We had breakfast every morning at cafes across the street from our hotel. After our favorite waiter took his days off, we changed allegiance to the café down the street. The yogurt was great but the brioche selection was more limited.

My last lesson in Milan was the discovery of a great aperitif - Americano. It is made with bitters (I have learnt that bitters is made with 100 proof volka) so it is a very relaxing drink. Two of them are really relaxing - I will pass on dinner.

One the last day, we had a great time investigating the mercantile wonders of Milan.

Saturday, we packed up for our travel to Venice. We have mastered the Metros of Paris and Milan. We have now mastered the Italian rail system (hint -it is great and easy to use). I was my usual courageous self and let Betty figure it out. But, I did buy Coca Cola Zero for two as my contribution.

A three hour train ride and we arrive in Venice and the Grand Canal is outside the station door. It is an afternoon sun and the colors are stunning.

Next - Venice for three days.