"I am the Napster"

We arrived in Venice via the train from Milan about a three hour pleasant train ride. As we walked out of the doors of San Lucia station, it is the grandeur of Grand Canal. It is huge span of water with all kinds of boats navigating the canal. My guess is over 600 yards( I am sure at some points close to half a mile) and I could be way off. You are overwhelmed by the size and immediacy. Then you are overwhelmed by the question - how do we get to the hotel from here. Then realty is where is the hotel?

Betty quickly figures out that the public transportation is called Vaporetto - it comes and goes. It is a long boat ride and San Marcos is the last stop. It is inexpensive at 7 euro. A water taxi is 75 euro. And at 1.28 exchange rate that it is lunch and dinner. We take the Vaporetto and learn a lot about today's Venice.

Venice is still a working port. As we motor by we see three to four huge cruise ships docked in the port area. Yes, there are a number of refineries within view of the harbor area. I will remind the reader that area around Disneyland in Anaheim, California ruins the illusion also. I think it is what you concentrate on. As the boat turns back to San Marcos, Venice achieves what you have seen in the photos and movies. Of course, they some how remove the huge number of tourist from the movie.

This brings me to Rick Stevens. You have no idea what an institution this guy is. He is a cult leader. He is on PBS and he sells his tour books, but, he has guided tours. We have run across three groups of people waiting for their turn to be lead around Italy by his approved guide.

We have developed a love/dislike relationship. He is like the kid in grade school who always raising his hand. But you are afraid to call his bluff. He was invaluable in Paris, helpful in Milan and confusing in Venice. Now, to his defense, no one - not even Google map - can explanation how to get anywhere in Venice. There is no logic. I am sure that the doge did it for defense. An army of a 100,000 would soon be lost in the maze and after days without food surrender to their fate.

For example, walking direction to our hotel went on for 4 pages and it was about a 25 minute walk.

Glass making on Murano Island

On Sunday, we took a tour to the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano is famous for glass and Burano is famous for lace. It was great. I learnt a lot about glass and that Murano glass is so highly sought after that the Chinese are making knock-offs. Burano was also interesting, but the highlight was lunch. The food was simple and good - but a pitcher of the house Prosecco for 7.50 euro was great. As usual, the check never arrived and we just sat ate desert and wondered why not.

Venice was built by merchants who took advantage of their location to dominate trade for over 600 years. Venice remains a city of merchants - salesmen. There are stores or restaurants with little in between. Venice relies on the tourist trade for its existence.

When Sheldon Adelson chose to design and name his Las Vegas Casino, the Venetian, I wonder if he realized that Venice is the original "what happens in ..." city. Venice is famed in history for its decadence. Casanova lived here. Particularly, from 17-19th century, Venice was sin city. The city lived off the wealth developed during its dominance in trade. Actually, about the same today, lines of tourist follow guides with colored flags into one line and out into another while the guides talk to themselves in a mic hung around their neck. Venice still lives off the vast wealth and excess that built these buildings on piers in a swamp. Think of it - every stone was rowed or sailed miles everyday for years to build these island cities.

Venice has Carnivale. It apparently puts Mardi Gras to shame and every Englishman is here on business. It is the mask which differentiate Venice version of excess from the runner ups. Those mask are a big business - Yep, again, made in China.

Tomorrow - San Marcos Piazza - Piazzo San Marcos