"We are in Florence"

We left Parma on Tuesday morning.

Parma

Parma is not a tourist city. It is a working city. We had a time change on Sunday. One of the problems with not being proficient in the language is you miss the news. Fortunately, I noticed that stores were still closed at 2:00 PM. After thinking that they must be wrong and I was right, I looked at my phone.

Italians, in general, are very proud of their cities. It is common in a conversation to be asked "how do you like". They smile when you tell them how much. The conversation becomes very animated and full of questions.

View from the balcony in Parma 

When we say are from California or Chicago, the remarks are often that they plan to visit some day.
Occasionally, you do met someone who is rude. But, remember, how often that happens in normal daily activities in the US? It is not that the person is Italian or French. It is that that person is rude to everyone, most likely, his mother.

We had the best waiter at the hotel in Parma, Giuseppe. He is smart and personable. He is the type of guy you enjoy being with. He was there for breakfast (7-10 AM), the bar (5-7-30PM) and then dinner (7:30-10PM). He was there all three days at the hotel.

Where the image of Italians as not hard working people came from - I do not know. But, it is not our experience.

Typical Regional Train

We have become experienced in the use of Italian trains. There are three types of trains - regional, Trenitalia and Italotreno. Think Metra, Amtrak and really, really fast. We take the Regional back to Bologna and by happenstance and some planning, we select Italotreno to Florence. The train reached speeds of 300 km or 186 mph. And, they have free Internet too.

We have met a great many really great people traveling Italy. On Tuesday, we met a great couple from Ireland.

I have noticed that Italians smoke a lot. You cannot smoke in buildings, but outside is legal. Remember Italian is the birth of "la fresca". I have noticed that the smoke does not seem to be an issue. Strange. I have, over the years, become sensitive to cigarette smoke and I do not smell the smoke. The smokers are discrete.

Smokers are young and old, men and women. Tobacco shops are common and are more like general stores. If you want a bus ticket, train ticket or cell phone, you look for "tabaccheria".

We arrived in Florence a little after 1 PM. We went to our "go to place" at train stations - MacDonald's. I know. I know. But, it works and I get to order in Italian (or, at least, my attempts).

Florence Hotel to Left

As always, Betty guides us to the hotel in short order. The hotel is in a great location. We are within a few blocks of Ponte Vecchio.

Since we will be in Florence for eight days, we got a chance to use a local Laundromat. Love "Speed Queen".

There is an actual tour in Florence based on Dan Brown's Inferno. I broke down this evening and purchased the book on ITunes.

Tomorrow, we start serious sightseeing. It is a beautiful city and the weather will be great for the next few days.

"You've such a lovely temperature"

Notes from Italy. We are now 20 days into our adventure. It is time to reflect on the odds and ends of the journey.

We are now in Parma. I like it a lot. It is Sunday. Nothing starts in Italy much before 10 AM on Sunday, especially, true in Parma. The restaurant menus do not have English subtitles and every other store is not Armani or pizza. Parma is a city of banks, churches, doctors, lawyers and people. Last night we ate at the hotel. The appetizer was Prosciutto di Parma and slices of Parmigiano cheese. We shared and could not finish. It was delicious. Betty has great success with picking our residences and this one is great.


So odds and ends.

In Italy, panhandling and begging have been raised to the status of performance art. The beggars stay in their roles. They dress the part. As an example, yesterday we are passing through Milano Centrale Train Station on the way to Parma. A bent over small old lady with a cane shuffles by with a small cup in her free hand reciting over and over her prayer for money. Now, normally, you feel a pang of guilt. But, after 20 days, you have seen the same costume including cane in every Metro and train station in Italy. So you say no.

In Venice by the San Marcos Cathedral front door, a woman lays in a "pieta" position with head cast downward and she does not move for the 35 minutes I watch.

Back to the lady in Milan, about 40 minutes later, you see the station police slowly following her out of the station in a golf cart. But, what is great is the woman does not break character - if any, she is going slower to piss off the cops. You can see on the cops faces that this happens 2-3 times a day with the same woman.

It is not humorous - but it is a divine comedy played out in a train station.

Train and Metro Stations are prime pickpocket areas. Also true of any crowded area. I wonder if Italian guide books say about Chicago?

The most common dodge is the "help the tourist or confused traveler". I will mention that Italian trains and metro are easy to use, fast and efficient. But, the first time, it is a little confusing until you discover the ticket machines speak 7 languages and take all cards and cash.

As you walk up to the ticket machine a helpful voice in English says "let me show you" or "where are you going". They seem like and act very official. And they are helpful and remain courtesy. But, they expect politely a gratuity. If they get one great, if not so be it. So it is performance art. I still remember fondly the 14 piece orchestra in the Paris at rush hour playing Schubert.

Italy is a nation of small farms and small shops. That is a compliment. We have now traveled a good part of northern Italy and it flat and plowed land of small farms. There are no Walgreens, Home Depot, Costco etc.. There are small shops everywhere.

Italy is a nation of eating and drinking. There are bars, restaurants of all description everywhere. Caffe (Coffee/expresso) is price regulated. So every expresso is 2 euro or less.

Italy's cities character are defined by its relationship with water. Venice is obvious. Florence, Rome, Como are their rivers and lakes, even Milan looks to its river.  It is true of most cities. Even Phoenix is defined by access to water. But in Italy, it is more the character of the city that is defined.

After twenty days of travel, I have some comments on my fellow travelers. First, any man wearing shorts will within 55 minutes of coming within your line of vision do something rude, stupid or both.
Germans travel in twos and fours ignore everyone else and drink beer. The French travel in twos speak French to themselves about everyone else. Australians are everywhere in small groups. There are so many Australians traveling you wonder who stays home. I am reminded of the Canadians who occupy Palm Springs, Phoenix etc. in the winter. How?

The Japanese and Chinese tourists travel in a parallel universe. It is the only explanation on how they can walk as if you are not there. They literally walk through you. I have seen it. They are at their worst with a camera. They lift their camera and they expect you to disappear.

I agree with Mark Twain the worst travelers are the English. Whether in couples or groups, they are rude. The English have escaped to Italy for centuries to the - "the Grand Tour". Part of the problem is magnified when one of the group thinks he speaks Italian as a native. Now, they are a lot better than I am. But, it is the condescending manner they use. Secondly, the English have this Pound Sterling to the Euro thing going. Europe is actually cheap to them at about a 30% discount. Finally, English are English and therefore, they are superior to all the colonies. They do not hesitate to remind you that you are not English.

Americans in couples are okay. With anything larger, they look bored or becoming bored. They have that look that they have seen it before in Disneyland and it was cleaner and cheaper. In groups they are  "flag" followers. In these tour groups, they do not try to interact. See rule #1 on shorts - the English and Americans wear shorts a lot. And, it 65 degrees out and cloudy.

These observations are based on a limited sample. We have meet a lot of great people on the trip. We have only had one poor experience with a waiter and it was a small thing.

Good story. We had ended our ferry tour of Lake Como at Varenna - Rick Stevens recommendation. He forgets to mention all the places he recommends are 3/4 mile walk from the ferry pier. So we have lunch. Homemade pasta by the lady owner. Wine was "vino de casa" and the sun was warm. We finished and were waiting for the ferry to take us to Bellagio . Betty had to use the washroom and ,of course, the ferry arrived. I ran in asking the lady proprietor to tell Betty the ferry had arrived and we needed to rush. It takes time. The lady then yells in animated Italian to ferry workers that cannot leave without us and they have to hold the boat for us.

They do and did so with style and joviality.

Next, Como and Parma.                                        

"I should have mailed it to the Marx Brothers"

"Does it have a receipt"

Our last day in Venice was sunny. Sunshine definitely changed the city.

On Tuesday, I walked the Grand Canal until I reached the Italian Naval Academy. As on the other three days, there was a light overcast. My observation is that it is the light that defines Venice and Paris. Paris light is for painters. When you look to the sky on a sunny day, you see an Impressionist blue and clouds.. It is remarkable. They painted what they saw.

In Venice, it is a writer's light. You see the sun on the water but it is a haze. The light makes you introspective. It is a poet's delight. Over a long period of time, it gives you a feeling of isolation. Together with the feeling of separation because of distance from land, I can see why poet's and writers gravitated to Venice.

Did you know that Richard Wagner lived in Venice and wrote about Venice. He actually died in Venice. A strange end to a strange dangerous man.

We enjoyed Venice. On Monday, we sat the Piazza San Marco. An orchestra played favorites like Love Story, Mary Poppins etc. I had an Irish Coffee and Betty had a Latte. We sat for over an hour watching the people and listening to the band. The only interruption was when we ordered the very popular cocktail in Italy called the Veneziano- sorry it is not Harry's bar "Bellini". The Bellini was not any menu we saw. The Veneziano is everywhere and anytime. Basic ingredients are Prosecco and bitters.

We walked  to the Rialto Bridge and, at noon, stopped for beer. We crossed over the Rialto Bridge. The bridge is an engineering monument. In order to hold the weight of the span's traffic of 600 years ago and today's tourist trade, the footings are over 100 feet deep- and I thought the Rialto was a movie theater in an Andy Hardy movie.

We took a Gondola ride. It is something you have to do. We were fortunate Betty and I had the Gondola to ourselves. The experience was worth the money.

You become aware in the early morning that every item - milk, beer, bread, napkins, garbage - has to be hauled in or away by hand cart. Venice has no back lot like Las Vegas or Disney World where the trailers or lift trucks show up after show time to unload 5 tons of produce. It is one cart at a time. Under those circumstances, the prices are reasonable.

The one thing I missed in Venice is coffee bars. Paris is the best. Stop anytime and anywhere are order a cafe' or beer and sit and talk. Milan was different but in Milan, coffee is a religion practiced often.

In Venice, there are no cafe'. There is a ton of restaurants, bars and wine shops. It is easy to sit with a glass of wine. But, coffee is not worshiped. I like worshiped.

But, pizza is everywhere. It is relatively inexpensive and ranges from acceptable to very good. The pizza is more like California Pizza Kitchen than Pizza Hut in style, but is better and fresher. Not sure how the locals feel about pizza, but it is inexpensive.

I have started seeking sandwich bars. Again, one price if you stand and another if you sit at a table. We have discovered that there are sandwiches it is called "toast". Simple, but good. The toast has meat and cheese between two slices and bread heated on a panino grill.

I am learning to like the sandwiches of Italy. For one thing, the bread is better. Overall, the taste and texture is more earthy. The panino of Italy is totally different than Panera's. It is spicy. Italians use mustard, who knew.

I think -with a big "maybe" - that I starting to get familiar with the Italian language. I listen now and I catch a word here and there. I hear words now. The speed seems to be slowing down. I almost ordered our lunch without embarrassing myself. Very forgiving people.

Today - October 2, we are on our way to Como, Italy. The weather turned cooler today so we will see what it is like in Lake Como.

"I am the Napster"

We arrived in Venice via the train from Milan about a three hour pleasant train ride. As we walked out of the doors of San Lucia station, it is the grandeur of Grand Canal. It is huge span of water with all kinds of boats navigating the canal. My guess is over 600 yards( I am sure at some points close to half a mile) and I could be way off. You are overwhelmed by the size and immediacy. Then you are overwhelmed by the question - how do we get to the hotel from here. Then realty is where is the hotel?

Betty quickly figures out that the public transportation is called Vaporetto - it comes and goes. It is a long boat ride and San Marcos is the last stop. It is inexpensive at 7 euro. A water taxi is 75 euro. And at 1.28 exchange rate that it is lunch and dinner. We take the Vaporetto and learn a lot about today's Venice.

Venice is still a working port. As we motor by we see three to four huge cruise ships docked in the port area. Yes, there are a number of refineries within view of the harbor area. I will remind the reader that area around Disneyland in Anaheim, California ruins the illusion also. I think it is what you concentrate on. As the boat turns back to San Marcos, Venice achieves what you have seen in the photos and movies. Of course, they some how remove the huge number of tourist from the movie.

This brings me to Rick Stevens. You have no idea what an institution this guy is. He is a cult leader. He is on PBS and he sells his tour books, but, he has guided tours. We have run across three groups of people waiting for their turn to be lead around Italy by his approved guide.

We have developed a love/dislike relationship. He is like the kid in grade school who always raising his hand. But you are afraid to call his bluff. He was invaluable in Paris, helpful in Milan and confusing in Venice. Now, to his defense, no one - not even Google map - can explanation how to get anywhere in Venice. There is no logic. I am sure that the doge did it for defense. An army of a 100,000 would soon be lost in the maze and after days without food surrender to their fate.

For example, walking direction to our hotel went on for 4 pages and it was about a 25 minute walk.

Glass making on Murano Island

On Sunday, we took a tour to the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano is famous for glass and Burano is famous for lace. It was great. I learnt a lot about glass and that Murano glass is so highly sought after that the Chinese are making knock-offs. Burano was also interesting, but the highlight was lunch. The food was simple and good - but a pitcher of the house Prosecco for 7.50 euro was great. As usual, the check never arrived and we just sat ate desert and wondered why not.

Venice was built by merchants who took advantage of their location to dominate trade for over 600 years. Venice remains a city of merchants - salesmen. There are stores or restaurants with little in between. Venice relies on the tourist trade for its existence.

When Sheldon Adelson chose to design and name his Las Vegas Casino, the Venetian, I wonder if he realized that Venice is the original "what happens in ..." city. Venice is famed in history for its decadence. Casanova lived here. Particularly, from 17-19th century, Venice was sin city. The city lived off the wealth developed during its dominance in trade. Actually, about the same today, lines of tourist follow guides with colored flags into one line and out into another while the guides talk to themselves in a mic hung around their neck. Venice still lives off the vast wealth and excess that built these buildings on piers in a swamp. Think of it - every stone was rowed or sailed miles everyday for years to build these island cities.

Venice has Carnivale. It apparently puts Mardi Gras to shame and every Englishman is here on business. It is the mask which differentiate Venice version of excess from the runner ups. Those mask are a big business - Yep, again, made in China.

Tomorrow - San Marcos Piazza - Piazzo San Marcos

"What I learnt about Milan"

"What I have learned about Milan"

We arrived on a Sunday afternoon at Hotel Da La Ville. It is a great boutique hotel located within a quick walk to the Duomo which is the heart beat of Milano. The Piazza del Duomo is always crowded regardless of weather. This week we have seen rain, drizzle, clouds and sunshine.
I have discovered that there is a street in Milan named after every person who has ever lived in Milan.

I have discovered that what you want to order is a Caffe' Macchiato. Try that at your local Starbucks and see what you get.

I discovered that in Italy pastry is ordered by saying "brioche" that includes croissants, muffins and a great round pastry filled with chocolate, crème (lemon) etc. "Brioche" is pronounced "bree-oh-chay". Next question is how do know what to pay for?

Answer is simple - you order and pay the cashier first. You take the receipt and hand to the person behind the counter. Then you point. Everyone points and asking questions.

La Scala Opera

The pastries are delicious. Again, everyone is helpful. They want to practice their English. Short story. On Thursday, it had been a long day and I was sitting on a step to the museum bookstore. A very nice lady walking here dog saw me and asked in Italian if I was alright. Her concern was so evident that it was easily communicated. She really wanted to help.

Which brings me to another lesson of the week - say "Americano" and most Italians will quickly assume you are in trouble and will help whether it is ordering, directions or standing in the wrong line.

It appears that Italian men like the French men are,

in general, are shorter than the women. I know that is a gross overstatement. But, it sure appears true when you see couples walking - and it is not necessary the shoes. By the way, you do not see the high stilettos as you do in USA. But, you also do not see flats. Women wear heels everywhere.

Everyone dresses. I have not seen a woman without makeup or a man that has not groom perfectly.

I also learnt that short showers are common in France and Italy. The hotels in Paris and Milan had large bath tubs with folding shower doors which only cover half the tub length. The shower heads are hand held. It is not easy to lather with one hand and rinse with the other while trying to keep your balance. The results are that you move fast.

Milan is a beautiful city, but it is working city. People move quickly when they walk and they smoke a lot. Sit outside and there are ashtrays on the table. Walk down the street and there will be the fragrance of tobacco smoke in the air. Marlboro seems to the most common. Knew I should have bought that stock.

The Weather was wet the first full day in Milan. My Parisian umbrella performed well. It does not stay open due either because of either an engineering error or it is broken. Best guess, it is broken. But, I compensated by acting cool and holding the umbrella open. I figured if John Travolta in "Get Shorty" could convince Hollywood that a mini van was cool. I would have no problem. And it worked. No laughter. Of course, I was moving fast.

The Duomo is the fourth largest cathedral in the world. It is in the flying buttress style and made of marble- completely. Considering it took over 600 years to complete - imagine the poor nobleman stopping his local interior designer every 50 years or so and saying "what do you mean you can't find marble". It is the Steve Wynn theory of architecture - if a little is good, why not go for hideous.

The interior was a learning experience. I did not realize that they have mummies in churches. I should have known better. I know that English bury in the floor of their cathedrals but at the Duomo they are in these glass case with silver death masks.

The other unusual experience is a statue of Saint Bartholome. He was allegedly skinned alive. So, the statue is of a man skinned wearing his skin as a robe placed over his shoulder.

On Tuesday, we went to museum that had an exhibit of Da Vinci notebooks. There are over 400 pages in the Alantis Codex (it is the largest and contains Da Vinci notes and treaties of Art. By the way, Da Vinci argues that painting is the prefect form.

On Wednesday, we went to a Castle. Milan is great you can walk a lot and see a lot. The castle's defenses were improved by Da Vinci. Honest, it becomes evident the man never, never slept.

The Castle is huge and impressive presence. Made of brick - again, pity our Italian nobleman trying now to find brick for his summer home.

The castle has an extensive Egyptian collection. When consider the Louvre's, the British museum, the University of Chicago, Berlin Museum and this collection,  egyptology redefines "looting".

We had breakfast every morning at cafes across the street from our hotel. After our favorite waiter took his days off, we changed allegiance to the café down the street. The yogurt was great but the brioche selection was more limited.

My last lesson in Milan was the discovery of a great aperitif - Americano. It is made with bitters (I have learnt that bitters is made with 100 proof volka) so it is a very relaxing drink. Two of them are really relaxing - I will pass on dinner.

One the last day, we had a great time investigating the mercantile wonders of Milan.

Saturday, we packed up for our travel to Venice. We have mastered the Metros of Paris and Milan. We have now mastered the Italian rail system (hint -it is great and easy to use). I was my usual courageous self and let Betty figure it out. But, I did buy Coca Cola Zero for two as my contribution.

A three hour train ride and we arrive in Venice and the Grand Canal is outside the station door. It is an afternoon sun and the colors are stunning.

Next - Venice for three days.

"If you will forgive me for being personal - I do not like your face, M. Ratchett"

Night Train to Milan.

I am very lucky. Betty is a wonder. Betty communications to everyone regardless of language. It is fantastic to watch people react to her friendliness. When I get lost, she is there asking and getting us back on the trail of that museum. We need information Betty finds it.  That talent was needed on trip to Milan.

It was a great adventure. We checked out of the Paris hotel about noon as required. Leaving our luggage at the hotel, we took a walk to the Luxembourg Gardens. Parisians use their parks. They walk, run, play boules, tennis and sitting. We sit and watch and discover everyone plays. We watch a gentleman practice and he is impressive. Maybe, he is a professional. At twenty feet, he can hit one ball with another consistently.

There are chairs everywhere. Runners are everywhere.

Then, what else, lunch. We stop at a restaurant we have walked by several times called "Select". We met another two ladies taking a "Rick Stevens' Tour. Again, the food is great. Betty had French onion soup and Fries (they put ketchup on the table). I have a great salad and, of course, a glass of wine.
Now, the age old problem, how early to the train. We elect to go early since we are not sure on the rail station; how to get there and if it is the right station. We have read horror stories.

Of course, we do everything right and have 3 hours to kill. No Internet (do not believe the travel guides and Rick Stevens on the Internet everywhere). So we sit guarding our luggage. Not a lot to do and my nose is running badly. I am now a frequent visitor to Starbucks for napkins. Yes, Starbuck is here and in numbers. You recognize the décor, but the menu is different, but "wow" on the pastries.

We watch the big broad as if the "rapture" depends on it. First hour and no listing for our train. We reassure each other that we are at the right station and the right "hall". Second hour, we are starting to question and plan for panic. Finally, our train is listed. Then, it appears. Next to the sleek French train, the engine looks worn and the coaches look restored and not in a good way.

Tello is a privately owned railroad which operates only this one train from Paris to Venice. Being a true democrat I have my worst fears realized - my life and well being - I am at the mercy of an Italian Capitalist.

We push forward to find Coach 95. The First car is 97. The next is 89. The Internet is full of stories of reservations not being honored etc. We find 95 next to 96. Both are at the other end of train. Betty and I have on our heavier coats on. We carry our backpacks together with luggage so we are hot and uncomfortable. The coach is clean (reasonable) but other than that the coach is the "before' in "before and after' series on HG TV. By the way, clean and reasonable did not apply to the washrooms.

The lady conductor comes by and in order to calm nerves tells us it her first day on the job. Please hand over your passports and I will give them back at Milan.

The compartment is for two and is a sleeper. Everything is out of bad movie - "I Love Lucy' where Lucy disappears into the hidden closet or the pull beds from the wall. There is a ladder to the upper berth which is about eight feet from the floor. The lower berth when pulled from the wall is about four feet still enough to damage ego and bones. The conductor tells us she will return at 10 to show us how to set up. Never shows - there goes our passports.

We did get coupons for sparkling wine and morning coffee, croissant, juice and applesauce (rewards for those survive the night). The wine is in airplane size glass. The range of people are fantastic and interesting.

About 2 AM, the train stops and it does not look like Milan. More like something out of zombie movie. And we stay for two and half hours. Betty finds out that we are at the border and something is wrong. There goes our passports again. But now, we feel reassured that the whole train suffers our fate.

Moreover, we are not unhappy that the train is late. We can check in at 2 PM and train on schedule arrives at 6 AM. The long delay is a blessing.

We arrive at @ 9 AM and are passports are returned. Getting off a train in a strange country is both exciting and terrifying. We read just before we leave the train our last instructions from Rick Stevens - Alert, pickpockets outnumber passengers. As you get off the train, they take a numbers.

Tired and unsure of language and customs, we find a great food court. Really, cool.

First lesson of the day, in Italy you order from the cashier and then give the receipt to the order filler.

Second lesson, coffee is not café with cream as in France. Italians do not have the concept of coffee with cream. To them, it is an American thing and this is Italy.

Third lesson is that there are tons of great looking biscuits, muffins and croissants and you cannot figure out what to call them so you order croissants a lot.

People are helpful and we get coffee and croissants. We sit. At 10 AM, we move to MacDonald's and to wait. Two cheeseburgers and fries later on and it is noon.

MacDonald's is everywhere in Italy (no drive thru). They are set up with a café on one side and the grill on the other. The McCafe is set up more like a café. You only order caffe and brioche. The grill side has the MacDonald standards plus sandwiches like Salime with cheese.

We are accustomed to Metro systems now and after Betty deciphers ( I have given up for now based on my track record), we arrive at the Duomo - all roads in Milan go to the Duomo.

The Hotel De La Ville is great and great location. And we are getting better, we only walked around for fifteen minutes before finding it. Again, Betty asked and this great lady stopped what she was doing and walked us to the door. I think she looked at me and said this woman needs help.

We are within 3 blocks and Cathedral Duomo.

Tomorrow - what I learned about Italy.

"He went to Paris for answers"

Sorry about the delay in blogging, I had a cold that slowed me down. We still did a lot. But when I got to hotel, I was short on energy.

On Friday in Paris, we walked. By now, we were experienced Metro Riders so we got quickly to the Citi'. Riding the Metro in Paris is the  history of France. Want a Louis- any Louis - take the M1. Want the Revolution take the M4 and transfer to the M1. Want the Bastille, get off at the Bastille stop.

We started Friday at Norte Dame. We stopped and had coffee.. We really got into the coffee thing.

The cathedral front facade is imposing, but not awe inspiring. Perhaps, that reflects the Middle Ages view of God. There were the expected crowds in front and a line of athletic-minded tourists on the left side of the cathedral ready to climb to the top of the bell tower. By the way, the sound of the bells are cool. They apparently retire bells. Along the side of the Cathedral, there are bells neatly stored and they have names.

The real views of the Cathedral are the rear and the view across the Seine. The Cathedral is a narrow long structure which makes sense once you think about Middle Age construction and the limitations of the flying buttress It is the view of the rear of the Cathedral that instills grandeur. It is the ascension of the buttresses and the spires that has inspired the painter, the photographer and the postcard.

There is a lovely garden and then, the bridge over the Seine where lovers and couples symbolize their unending love with brass locks. There is a adman for a bike lock company somewhere saying "Harry, I told you it would work".

Crossing the bridge, we wandered the Left Bank. Left Bank does have a feel to it. For the first time, I feel that I was walking somewhere that I have read about. Let me explain. I have always been a great reader of Hemingway. I love the Nick Adams stories. I have read "The Sun Also Rises" three times (this book and "Catcher on the Rye" I read the beginning of every decade to see if I grown up yet). I actually enjoy the "Movable Feast". This romanticism of Hemingway took us to the "Shakespeare & Co.".

The store is an active book store. There is a small section for the expected "Lost Generation" authors. But, there are best sellers and wide range of titles. There is a very interesting section on the store and its owners.

The defining moment was the reading room. You climb an old narrow staircase with books on both sides. Then, you pass through an anteroom and a door. It is a photograph. It no longer takes imagination, you are there. Hemingway just left for coffee. Fitzgerald forgot his lighter. For that second in time, it is your reality. It is the window and the light. Not a Woody Allen fan, but he got the light right.

You see it in the blue sky and the clouds. The impressionists painted what they saw.

Enough. I did learn that European buildings follow the decimal system with a zero, the ground level floor is "0" so our fifth floor room is actually on the American 6th floor - (trust me you get use to it).

After the bookstore, we went to lunch. Betty has great instincts on restaurants. Trust me it is not easy. There are restaurants on every corner since in Paris. And there are often six corners to an intersection. This great restaurant was just down the street from the bookstore.

I discovered that waiters do not speak English. They speak "waiter" language which is useful in Spanish, Italian, English, Chinese etc.. They know how to take your order in all those languages.
Our waiter was the exception. He was not fluent but he knew how to make communication fun.

"Do you want your group photo taken. Of course, let me take it again. You need to smile."

"Where is the washroom" and with a smile, he says we don't have one and starts to laugh as he points the stairs.

I had a ham and cheese omelet. Betty had chicken and said it was delicious.

After lunch we began to walk. We crossed the Pont Neuf - who said the French had no sense of humor.

We walked along the Seine using the lower level closer to the river. We came back to street level at the Lourve. We walked the gardens of Louvre. 

As we walked about 9 miles this day ( I have a Fitbit). We saw the Eiffel Tower. Actually, I saw the top of the Eiffel Tower. I realize how small "Tourist Paris"is.  Like Chicago, if you stay within the tourist areas - you see but do you know? We were fortunate because of Betty's plan to stay in a small boutique hotel in the very non-tourist and very hip neighborhood of Paris called Luxemburg Gardens. Together with my failures with the Metro and the adventure of the train from the airport, we got a broad view of Paris.

Late afternoon we strolled the Champs Elysees with cool weather, sun and clouds.

The Champs Elysees is in two sections. The first section we walked was a park. It is a broad typical French park. There are two pedestrian lanes on each side lined with matching trees. The footpath is granite dust. Formal at the same time informal.

The second section is the shopping. The French have learned English as part of their shopping experience. There is Gap, Banana Republic and Nike. But, they do have a five story Louis Vutton.

We stopped for my beer (I order Beer because I can say the brand) and Betty ordered coffee. We stay and people watch. Everyone does it. The check seldom comes quickly and we rest.

We take the Metro back to the hotel and view the Eiffel Tower fully. Next time.

Tomorrow, the Night Train to Milano.
:

"I ate the last mango in Paris"

It can be said that every Englishman has a tailor and every Frenchman (and woman) has a hair stylist.

There are no Great Clips or Supercuts. Now that I think about I have not a single sign for a  barber or hair salon.. They are national secrets guarded. We may see the Louvre and think we have shared the rich French culture. Realty is that the secret is safe.

Seriously, you can tell the nationality of the tourist next to you by their hair treatment. American hair   is functional. The Japanese hair is simple cut. The German's hair is short..

As you tour the Louvre you notice that there is a Greek Floor, an Etruscan Wing, Northern European Wing, Pharaonic Area, Romans are well represented  including the front of whole building; Flemish and Netherlands area and some interesting and very large paintings by David (mostly, of Napoleons- all of them) and a corridor of French Middle Age paintings. It is hard not to notice that the major attraction are the Italians. Some
guys in Rome and Milan are kicking themselves for having that garage sale and they should have gone to the " Antique Roadshow" instead.

There are more Da Vinci that you almost overlook several. Rafael owns the place. The Michelangelo is easy to miss. There are two great frescoes by Botticelli . It has holes. Apparently, the Napoleon's soldiers were in a hurry to get home.

Great Art does not bring out the best people. I felt sorry for the artists who are in the same large gallery as the Mona Lisa.. "Veronese, I got some good news and bad news, the Louvre has accepted your great painting "The Marriage of Cana". The bad news, no one will look at it since you are in the same room as the Mona Lisa".

Betty noted that when you view several Da Vinci paintings, there is nothing mysterious about that smile. All his paintings of women have it. It is there looking at you in "The Virgin and Child with St. Anne" (by the way Mary has  muscles and big feet) and "Virgin on the Rocks".

Also, fans of Dan Brown, Da Vinci apparently painted all his young men and, particularly, those named "John" looking more like a woman than a man. His "John' in "John, the Baptist" with his finger pointed to heaven has a feminine face.

The Louvre does need to work on that 20th Century standard of Industrial Art, the Men's WC. They will stop any thoughts of safe hygiene. Betty, because the Women's WC was overflowing with opportunity to serve had the chance to view the Men's and it scared her.

By the way, the French use the
word "aussi" a lot in the advertising.

Betty and I do not look even remotely French. But as a great compliment, a lady asked us in broken French (over and over again) "where is the" toilettes"". We accepted her "Merci" as we pointed to the sign. Within twenty feet, Betty, was again asked by a group of 5-6 women for "toilettes" and Betty graciously took them to one. Again, they attempted French with her.

On Wednesday night, we had pizza. It was good. Two young women were wondrous. The pizza maker was a blond woman who worked in a kitchen the size of our second bathroom. All you saw was her blond hair turning right and then left to the oven. The second woman was the bartender, Waitress, dishwasher and greeter. She handles take-outs and nine tables. The sequence goes like this - Conversation, laughter, wine order, water filled, conversation, laughter, order taken, conversation, laughter, menu discussed, conversation, laughter, food served, discussion, laughter etc.

She did it every table. The pizza was good (called a Parma) the event was even better. Again, the Parisian have earned my admiration for their tolerance.

Lunch was at the Louvre. Betty and decided lunch is our big daily meal. I think that our internal clocks need to adjust further.

I screwed up again on the Metro trains - wrong way for one stop. Fortunately, we could get off and crossover to the right train.

The Louvre is impressive. It is the original Mac-Mansion. I can hardly wait to see Versielle.

"when it drizzles"

What I learnt today.

Why is Paris so pleasing to the eye. There are no right angles. Paris is city built with a perspective. Every corner forces the eye to the focal point. Like a painting, the streets and, therefore the buildings creates lines that move the eye to the magic of perspective.

All this magic does no favors for the tourist. Streets disappear. Streets appear. They must be relabeled or moved during the night.

The subway called various names including Metro (M) follows the Parisian rule - no straight lines. They turn right and curve left. Moreover, there are commuter trains (RER) which are intermingled to assure confusion. And, they do not run in straight lines either. And they are in French with no subtitles.

Of course, we got lost. When the directions say six stops and get off. It means do not ride to the end of the line. We did get to see a non-tour book part of Paris called Cignacourt. We sat and ordered coffee to no one who spoke English. We got service outside and two expresso. Betty informed that it is Café Crème. About the same price as Starbuck's Latte Vente.

Our destination today was the Orsay Museum. The home of the Republic's Mid -1800-1920 collection of pre-Impression, Impression and post-Impression French artists. Monet, Renoir, Manet, Degas, Van Gogh, Sisley, Gauguin, Cezanne, Rodin are the attraction and, of course, they are on the fifth floor which is not really the fifth floor, as becomes evident when you study the museum map.

The fifth floor is where the people are. If you want to find tourists, search the Orsay and you find your next door neighbor holding his Rick Steven's guide book as close to his heart as you.

Rick Steven tells you so much and so little. But, Google Map and thousands of tourist Apps do no better. We are tourist and need to be given literally step by step directions. Literally, left foot in front of the other instructions. "Go thirty-eight steps to your right, walk down 14 steps".

We enjoyed the museum greatly. Betty taught me something I had never learned about Impressionist art. An Impression painting should be viewed from , at least, twenty feet away. Sit in the middle of the room and the paintings beauty is transforming.The result is remarkable. As you step away, the brush strokes blend to create detail you do not see standing in front of the painting. This is particular true with Sisley.

As you view the paintings, you see the evolution of Monet. When you see "Starry Night over the Rhone", you feel what the Van Gogh wanted you to feel. I never saw the young lovers in the painting before (his description in a letter to his brother - did you know he had a sister?). The self portrait is a man with too much energy knowing that he is running out of time. The madness is there but this man is not crazy. He is not running from demons. He is holding on. The give-away is the brush strokes. No madman could be that sure he is right.

We rented audio tours. Not greatly consistent, but worth the 5 Euros.

Lunch was at the Museum's Café. If anyone ever tells you that the French are not efficient and hard working, this café proves them wrong. The staff is efficient, polite and multilingual. I had the quiche and Betty had the Cod. The food was tasting and the Heineken Beer was great.

Breakfast was at the hotel. Good Coffee, very good bread, croissants, dates, slices of salami and ham and hard boil eggs - a French breakfast.

I also figured out one reason the French are thin. It is the portions. The plates and glasses are the right size for the meal. You are full, but not stuffed. The food has taste (no salt on the table even in a café). There is no rush, but you know when you are finished.

I also noticed that men do not have wallets in their back pocket. Not sure why or where they keep money etc. but no wallet bulge. Still have figure out why their clothes fit so well.

The women have two walks - sassy and the runway walk - honest. I am not making this up. You get the runway a lot, I am not complaining.

We saw the Seine River. It was impressive. It is a fast moving masonry banked river with a tourist boat every few minutes. Three hundred people speeding by wondering "why did I pick a 50 degree day with 15 mile wind to view Paris from a speeding boat on a river".

How did I get my Paris umbrella? I lost my Phoenix umbrella and went to LOST AND FOUND and asked if anyone found a black umbrella. By the way, all umbrellas in Paris are black.

Betty is resting. Dinner will be an adventure. Tomorrow.

"Royale with Cheese"

My first day in Paris. We are in a very Hollywood version of a small Parisian Hotel. The room is the size of a large Master closet in an American Mac-Mansion with a bathroom. Television is all French - all day - every day. The elevator is intimate. Literally, one person and one medium suitcase.

To the fifth floor, please and no stops, please. The view is waiting for Jason Bourne racing the roofs of Paris. Photos tomorrow.

Actually, the room is delightful. The bed is comfortable and adequate. We are in Luxembourg Gardens area of Paris. It is Paris. The Streets are narrow and charming (no other word works). Disney almost got it right. But, it is better. Buildings are monuments "1906"  proudly announcing  the architect and the money man.

There are no right corners in Paris. Paris is designed to be a city of streets waiting to be barricaded with furniture with cheers of 'Liberte". .

The buildings are small with no space in-between. The shops are small and inviting.

Impression of the first day. F
irst, Fly Air-Bus 800-300. Wow, even in economy, it was enjoyable.

Seriously, I have no jet lag which I believe that the journey was actually comfortable - 11 hours. Your own personal television. Betty did get front seats with gave us additional leg room but the seats and spacing is comfortable. Current movies. Choice of languages.

Second impression, I am impressed with Air France cabin staff. The seats between Betty and I were vacant and the flight attendant volunteered before seating that they would be vacant and to stretch out. They served Champagne and wine with dinner. .

Third impression is that we took our time finding our way to the hotel. Everyone was friendly and helpful. They wanted to talk and wanted to help. The man who sold us a disposal phone took more time than he might have to answer questions for a  30 Euro sale. The countless people we asked for directions.

We got on the subway train from De Gaulle airport but did not realize that you hit the red button on the door when you want to exit the train when it stops. Missing the stop, we had a great journey finding our small hotel. Lesson learned here was that there are so many streets that even when the locals are four blocks away they still have to look at their smartphone to give directions (Iphones, of course).

Fourth impression is that the Parisian will willingly speak English and do it well. I bought a sandwich today in a very small Panini shop and he was comfortable with an American and quickly discussed my impression of his beautiful city.

The Parisian still smokes. Young and old. Like the old days, cigarette smoke scents the air. They do not hide it. It is open civil disobedience.

Finally, the women are beautiful and the men are gorgeous. What style. What Flair. Old ladies running across the street in flats looks like an idea for designer fashion next year.

More research later. See if all these holds up.

Photos tomorrow.