"If you are lucky enough ...then wherever you go for the rest of you life, it stay with you"

We cross the Pont Neuf one more time.

It is a beautiful masonry bridge with a statute of a General in the middle. The Seine is a working river, but not to the extent of the Thames. It is swift and contained on both sides by masonry and brick. You can walk the lower level for a distance on both sides. This afternoon it is sunny and people are having lunch or just talking.

It is the oldest standing bridge in Paris completed in 1607. There is an older bridge, but it has

been rebuilt several times.

It is our fifth full day in Paris and we walking to the Louvre. Everyone has seen the Louvre, at least, once. That is the strength of the attraction of the Louvre. You have a week or a day. You go to the Louvre.

In the morning, we began with Sainte-Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite'. The Island is the heart of Paris. It was the palace and government of the Capetian kings of France. As with England, we often forget that the crown of the king rest uneasy on his head. France, as with most monarchies, had many families (often at the same time) claiming the kingdom.

This particular chapel is still being restored (damaged

from pollution (candles among other) and the French Revolution). Louis IX built this "Holy Chapel" to house his extensive collection of baseball cards. Just kidding. I wanted to see if you were paying attention.

Well, only partially kidding. In medieval times (1000-1300) , the king ruled with the approval of God, or his manifestation on earth, the Pope. One way to show your right to call God your personal friend was to have the largest collection of relics. A piece of old wood becomes a part of the Cross of Jesus once approved by the Pope. The masses are in awe. You rule another year.

I gather that Louis could not pass up a good relic salesman.

The chapel is an excellent example of Gothic architecture and stained glass. It is a long hall with the center altar at the end. There are smaller altars on each side. Where the Romans used concrete and brick, the Gothic builders used glass to reduce the weight to allow them to build higher.

The Chapel windows are speculator. There is a price. Chapel is the only church which charges admission. But, then again, I believe that it is no longer a consecrated church - just antiquity.

The Chapel is part of the Palais de la Cite' which includes the Conciergerie. During the Revolution, this building served as the prison of many including Marie Antoinette. You can view her cell. It is three small rooms. The juxtaposition to yesterday's journey to Versailles is appropriate.

It is worth the viewing.

We walk the right bank to the Louvre. It is about lunch time and I am grumpy and hungry. We quickly enter the Pyramid and down the escalator to the open gallery which is the introduction to the three museums that make up the Louvre - the Richeleau, the Sully and the Denon.


Everyone goes to the Denon - Italian Paintings and the Mona Lisa.

We go to lunch. Betty and I remember the Museum restaurant from our last visit and we induce the kids to join us. I think they would have preferred a baguette. But, I want to sit and have a long beer.

We split up. The kids are on their own. They need the time. Betty and I move to the Denon.  We were to Paris before Italy. Now, we have a better idea of Italian art and its history. I am curious to see the Mona Lisa again. The first time is not enough. There is simply too much anticipation.

The crowd is large so a quick glance. We move on and discover more. Betty is correct the best way is to sit in front of a group of paintings and look. You do not have to like every painting - but you need to decide for yourself.

This time I really began to understand the brush work. I am also again struck by how radical the revolution of perspective and anatomy was. Over a thirty year period, art became humanistic and real. Well, except maybe for Michelangelo whose women look really, really strong.

You can skip the African and American exhibit. We got lost. It is well intended.

It is quickly closing time. Betty and I are lost. My fault. We pass Winged Victory twice and not on purpose. Betty finally gets on the elevator and one of the employees explains how to exit to the main gallery.

I decide to take more run through the Denon. I turn and the Mona Lisa gallery is almost empty. The best time to view the Mona Lisa is 2 minutes before closing. In that short time, I fall in love with the Mona Lisa. I do not understand. I have no great insight. It is historical. De Vinci uses all the tricks of the eye to present a young woman that smiles at you and you remember the smile. Everyone for 400 years until the Impressionist followed and did not do it better.

I met a husband and wife in the elevator. They are walking gingerly and slowly. They are about my age. They will be in Paris for 10 days. They offer their insight as if pleading to be corrected "
lots of walking". I simply answer "Yep". And, point them to the escalator to the exit.

We met at the bookstore. I get lost and the kids have to find me. I am seating where I thought they would be sure to look. I am wrong. They are already outside in the Tuleries de Louvre.

The decision has been made to try to find Angelina's on the Rue de Rivoli. Yelp helps. We walk a few blocks. Angelina's is a must stop. It is old school. Polite service. White cloth. It is very full. There may be food on the menu but we only saw cakes and pastries. Betty orders tea.
Caroline orders hot chocolate. I order Champagne. It is that type of place.

We had to separate. There were no table for five. The waitress advises that Angelina's close at 18:00. We have about 40 minutes. We do not order Angelina's famous pastry is it's Mont Blanc. It is a small mound of layers of marron (chestnut) glace'. It is rich and smooth. One a lifetime, but what a lifetime. A pastry you share. We shared one at Versailles yesterday. Betty does rejects our suggestion to order one so we can taste again.

Caroline and I are lovers of thick hot chocolate. Stand up spoon hot chocolate. Starbucks had years ago a great hot chocolate drink - served in a small cup. It was singular great.

Angelina's is fantastic people watching. When you visit Paris, please go and let me know what you think.

As we leave Angelina it begins to rain. The right side of Rue de Rivoli is covered. The upper floors of the buildings extend to the street. It creates an arched stone canopy the length of the block. You do have to brave the rain as you cross streets and plazas. There are stores for everything, but they tend to be food.

My experience is that the French and Italians love food and seem never to eat at home. In London, you have to look for a place to eat. Paris is like Chicago in the old days. There was a local bar at the beginning of the block, at the middle and the end. Only to start all over again on the next block.
Paris is my kind of place.

We walk in the rain. Of course, since it was sunny this morning I did not bring an umbrella. The rain is heavy at times, but not often. We are wet and tired as we walk to the apartment.

The apartments in France and Europe are unique to an American. First entry to European Apartment buildings is into a courtyard. That entry is guarded by tall, extremely heavy and reinforced doors. There is a code. Enter the code and the gates of heaven or hell open - honest, they could be. They are mechanical. There is a click. The doors swing open. The doors give you about 20 seconds to clear the opening before beginning to close.

It is all very reassuring that the doors could withstand a ramming by a large vehicle. Why, I do not know. But, the doors are the standard and all the residences seem content.

The major crime throughout Europe/England is "pickpockets". I have heard stories from friends and other travelers about the skill level and ubiquitous of this criminal. They are there. You should take the warnings very seriously. But, come on. My recommendations are to keep it simple and enjoy.

Remember "pickpocketing" is a crime of opportunity. It is not personal. Pickpockets look for the easiest and quickest target. They go for volume and the odds are in their favor. Be aware of where you are. Don't flash cash. Don't carry your passport with your wallet - no matter how cool that leather passport case you bought for the trip looks. 

In my case, my mom always told me to keep my hands out of my pockets. She was wrong. Hands in the pockets is great way to hold onto your wallet and phone. looks Since I have practiced all my life, no one suspects my cleverness. Of course, there is the other side. The mother saying to her child - if I ever see you with your hands in your pockets like that old man - no dinner for you.

Tomorrow - our last full day in Paris.