It is Thursday in Paris. I am at Starbucks. I fought it but Paris does not yet have the concept of takeaway coffee for five and the coffee percolator does not produce drinkable coffee.
Also, we are on Verizon's International plan (there are many) which limits cellular usage to 100 MB for a month. That works fine, but you need to be judicious in your use. That judicious use involves turning off cellular capabilities to limit accidental usage. So, you look for WIFI whenever possible. As the tour books say, WIFI is readily available almost everywhere in Europe. Just be careful as you would be in the States about private information shared on open WIFI.
Starbuck has free WIFI, good coffee, great assortment of muffins, donuts and mocha (if you like mocha drinks, cafes are not your thing) and takeaway. Caroline likes Mocha.
As in Rome with McDonald's, Parisians are there. Although I see more American tourists wonder in. It took a visit to become familiar with the process. The order guy likes exact change or as close as possible. Just order off the menu board.
"Bonjour"
"Bonjour"
"Grande filtered coffee (English term for drip)"
"Yes, dark or light"
"Huh, oh, dark Okay"
"Anything else".
"Yes, Oui. A donut chocolate" (like Italy, donuts are cake with a hole in the middle encased in frosting - very good and they look like donuts)
"For here"
"'No, 'to go'. I mean 'takeaway' "
We quickly are friends. We learn to point and repeat.
So it is interesting to watch other Americans. You can tell that they apprehensive about the language but they want that American coffee (American style coffee is unique and not popular anywhere else - closest is the English "filtered coffee" but they only have skim "skinny" milk). This may be the first interaction outside the cocoon of the hotel and the guide tour. This is a real day to day interaction.
In general, they do not offer a greeting. The French really do care about that formality. But, they are not rude about it. They are just not as friendly. If you think about it they are right.
Everyone is polite and efficient. But, I do wonder what the tourists think of their experience. Possibly, they go home with the impression that the French are not friendly, reluctantly speak English and make it difficult. Perhaps. I hope not.
Twice, we have been to Paris - the heart of the urban legend that the French are rude and unfriendly. We never had a poor experience. The French are quick to laugh. They are jovial and friendly. They are helpful and efficient. They enjoy you trying to speak their language. They will correct you and switch to English. They are proud of their history. They are proud of their city.
My answer as to why the difference in experience - "Bonjour". "Merci".
As I walk back to the apartment, I wonder why I like Paris so much. There are obvious answers. I grant you all of them. But, they do not answer my question.
Finally, I realize that my affection for Paris and Rome is that these cities embrace you. Paris leads you to believe that it is your city. I am not alone. I think of Hemingway and others. Paris and Rome seduce you into the feeling that she is yours. You discovered her. Reality is that they are huge impersonal cities, but there is an intimacy. You walk in the morning or night and they are yours.
When you see the Seine from Pont Neuf on a late afternoon. That memory is yours for the rest of your life. You remember your first visit to Luxembourg Gardens. Or the little café on the corner. It is yours. You go back. It does not disappoint. It is different. But, it is yours.
I mentioned earlier our visit to Shakespeare & Co and the little park to the left of the store. It was different. Some of which, I did not like - like the favorite aunt who shows up at Thanksgiving with a new boyfriend. But, she is still your favorite aunt. She is different, but you understand why.
And, I did all this before 9:00 on a Thursday morning.
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