It is Monday. The kids left yesterday. It is Betty and I. Our last week in London. Our plan is to make the week more relaxed and personal.
The hotel room is large by Europe standards. The bathroom is almost American in style and size. The shower is not an after thought. There is a full shower curtain and you can turn around.
One of the travel issues you become familiar with as you travel internationally is electrical adapters. I am sure that constant international travelers has closets full and can never find the right one when needed.
First advice, do not buy adapters in the store - any store including REI - simple, you can buy on Amazon for a quarter of the store price. Secondly, you may or may not need a converter. Converters convert 220 (European and United Kingdom) to 110 so that you will not fry your USA electronics.
The good news is that almost all personal electronics chargers you will use on your trip - cell phones, computers, cameras, video - reduce both 220 and 110 to the wattage used to recharge their batteries. How do you know? Simple, if you have a charger which uses a UBS connector to connect your device into the wall socket to charge your various devices. You do not need an converter.
You can purchases in the US hair blowers and curlers which will work on both 110 and 220.
Buy one converter just for security. Leave in your suitcase until that rainy day.
I recommend the purchase of four adaptors for each of the countries you are visiting. It is surprising how many electronic devices are now required in daily life. The Internet is your friend to identify the specific adaptors you will need. Be prepared, the hotel rooms have few outlets and the majority of those are in use. So you make decisions - turn on the lamp or charge my phone. Multiple by the number devices and people, there is always a shortage of outlets.
I am a person that likes to walk. When you walk you see so much more. You feel part of what is going on around you. You read signs. You look in windows. You greet people. You stop for coffee. You get lost and find wonderful things.
The hotel is really great. The deal includes either a breakfast buffet or a Continental breakfast. The buffet is entry level of the hotel. The Continental is on the sixth floor. I have opted for the Continental. My thought is coffee and biscuit. Instead, the Continental is a mini-buffet.
The Television is onto either BBC or Sky News. The major news of the week is the Queen's 90th birthday; Obama's visit, the London Mayor election and the upcoming June vote on remaining in the European Common Market.
UK journalism is a hideous joke. There is no attempt to report the news. It is scandal, demagogy and poorly written. I read the newspapers. It is not even entertaining.
The food is great and the breakfast room is well furnished and attended. My only complaint is that room is stuffy and the sensation is uncomfortable warm. Now, in their defense. I plan to leave for my walk right after breakfast so I am dressed for a London spring of 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
As I will learn during the week the hotel is in a great location. Besides the immediacy of the Underground station, we are within walking distance of a number of museums. High Keningston area is within a few blocks.
I have no direction in mind as I leave to hotel. I turn right.
In two weeks in London, I never become comfortable with the direction that vehicles will come at me as I step off the curb. I would not even attempt to drive in the UK. I rate the London driver as much more scarier than Paris or Rome.
As a pedestrian, I was much more comfortable in Rome than London. Romans stop. There are rules. I will scare the crap out of you, but I will not hit you. In London, they want to hit you.
The problem with crossing a street in London is that you have to look in the opposition direction than you have all your life. It is not just me. Look down as you begin to cross a street and there is a specific message "look to your left" and then "look to your right". It has to be dangerous if they have to tell even their native pedestrians at every corner which direction to look before stepping off the curb.
This is a orientation walk. What is the neighborhood like? In the direction I walk, the area is predominantly residential. I turn left on the first large street I come to and follow the curving street into a more commercial upscale area.
There are very few straight streets in London. Those streets that do not curve only last for a few blocks. Therefore it is hard to get lost, but difficult to get your bearings. I am reminded of Boston saying "You cannot get there from here."
The road curves towards to the Albert & Victoria Museum. I now have an idea where I am and where the hotel is located. I pass the British Natural History Museum. It is huge. The original building is red brick Victorian and is substantial. The modern structure which is integrated into the original building is an immense metal and glass structure. What possibly could require so much space?
This morning the line is actually long. It is Monday. The Museum has several short term exhibits which appeal to schools. It is about four blocks to the hotel. At the end of the walk, I never knew that Kensington is home to so many embassies. I now know where the Tunisia and Iraqi Embassies are for example. Not every impressive. But, surprisingly, no armed guards either. There must be ten embassies in Queen Gate Rd alone.
At the hotel, Betty joins me for lunch. Italian restaurants exists everywhere and as both chains or as small single shop businesses. Italian food says good food at reasonable prices. Think about it, have you ever seen a French restaurant chain. This is true in Paris. The easiest small restaurants are Pizzeria and Trattoria.
There are about six or seven food places on the hotel street.. Two coffee shops, three delis, a Whopper, a pub and a Wildwood. Wildwood is Italian food and not that bad.
After lunch, we walk to the Natural Museum. The crowd has diminished but we still have to walk to the far end of the block in order to walk back to the entrance.
Inside, the public museum is remarkable small. Betty remembers the museum as much different. Betty remembers glass cases with exhibits. Now, the museum is more "friendly". My guess is that the curators now limit the exhibits and rotate the collections.
So there are few actually bones laying around. It is neat and tidy. You can do the museum remarkably quickly which is great for tourists and children with short attentions. I was disappointed.
I missed the Darwin part of the museum. Betty said it was interesting. The dinosaur was brief and somewhat interesting. I have not been to the Field Museum in Chicago in a long time. My memory of that museum is fonder.
What is worth the trip (the museum is free) is the building itself. As you walk the steps of the main room, your steps on the stairs are with Charles Darwin and Richard Owen. (Richard Owen is the gentleman who named "terrible lizards" dinosaurs.)
The museum is within the museum complex that includes the Albert and Victoria and British Science Museum (which always had a line a half block long) so it is worth an hour late at the day.
We needed a slow day. Tomorrow, we travel.
Saturday, May 21, 2016
Sunday, May 15, 2016
"I am leaving because the weather is too good.I hate London when it's not raining"
idayiaToday is our last full day in London before the train to Paris. I do apologize for the jumping around in the blog. I am sure you are confused.
I did not write a great deal the trip itself. On the trip to Italy, we had over eight weeks. So if we did not do today, there was tomorrow. Also, there was wonderment. Everything was an adventure and unexpected.
We did so much. Even though we often left the apartment around 10:30, we were exhausted by the end of the day. I also found that I needed my morning walks to think about what I wanted to write.
I wrote for a few days in London. I then skipped to Paris for a few days. John, Angela and Caroline were with us for a week in London and then the week in Paris. They flew home from Heathrow on April 17th. Betty and I stayed in London until April 25th.
London is huge. It is easy to get around. But, being a casual tourist, you do as you please. We also walked as often as possible which is the way to learn a city, but does take time. On a guided tour, their schedule will get to the sites needed to say you have seen London. But, I can tell you what flowers were blooming in Kensington Park. I know where the Iran embassy is in London.
Today, we have the two great cultural flagship of the British Empire.
We take the Tube to the British Museum. We arrive relatively early. I cannot image the crowds during the summer. Now, we see school groups from all over Europe, tourists (I am surprised by the number of French tourists), English families on holiday and international tourists.
The British Museum is a very cool place. The core buildings are good. But the layout is modern and efficient. You know it looked different fifty years ago, but it is difficult to visualize the layout as it was then.
We split up. Caroline and I take off for the café. We leisurely study the Mesopotamia period. We comment on the Assyrian. We investigate the Babylonian period. We seek wisdom from the early and middle Kingdom.
And, we view the Rosetta Stone. The stone is not large at all. The stone could easily have been overlooked for centuries. There is nothing remarkable in appearance or size. Like most problems, the solution to reading hieroglyphics was there all the time. It took a French man to stumble across it and the English to confiscate.
The British Museum has a great cafeteria. After lunch, Caroline and I move on to the Greece.
I know a secret. The Parthenon was not destroyed. It still exist. Half of it is in British Museum. The other half is the Louvre. Seriously, it is kind to say that the Earl of Elgin (Thomas Bruce) took "some of the surviving sculptures" after 2,000 years of damage from war and conquest. He took a lot more than "some". The Louvre portion is a result of Napoleon's army theory "it is nailed down, take the entire wall". Elgin's theory was to find the most corrupt bureaucrat he could find and with some "greasing" offer to take the sculptures back to England to protect them.
The British Museum's display of their collection is excellent. The museum has recreated a small Greek tomb/temple. It is impressive.
Caroline and I are now using the Museum map. We have surrendered to the museum. To examine the museum in any detail is two full days. No one does that since large portions may not be of interest to you. For example, I am not interested in Asian art and artifacts. It is a great collection. But, you only have two to three hours.
We are "mummy" shopping. As we search, I am aware of how little I know about the great ancient civilizations. Like the Etrusican display at the Vatican Museum, Western Historians pay so little attention to civilizations. We assume that the Egyptians and Greeks blossomed in a void. The winner gets to write the history books. Walk through the British Museum, you see that stealing on a grand scale is an ancient sport.
We find the Egyptian mummies. Come on admit in, you are thinking about the movie "Night in the Museum" Sequel 3 or something like that. You go to the British Museum to see mummies.
You will be disappoint. Go see them. They are a must. But, as I have often said, "you see one mummy, you have seen them all". Betty, who visited the Museum in the 1970's, mentions that the mummies exhibit is smaller. Makes sense.
When you travel Europe you soon realize how much of an attraction Da Vinci and Michelangelo are. It is a point of great pride for a museum to have a portion of the life production of these two men. The British Museum has a number of exhibits.
We hunt down Michelangelo's cartoon, the Epifania. It is not easy to find since it is right and then left from the mummies. And, yes, I said cartoon. I was not expecting Woody Woodpecker. But the word "cartoon" is difficult to visualize as a Michelangelo. A "cartoon" is the final preparatory work done by the artist prior to beginning the actual painting.
The Epifania cartoon is black chalk drawing on 26 sheets of paper. It is about 80 inches in height. The actual subject of the drawing is unknown. The painting was not started.
We return at the predetermined time to the large circular vestibule which is the gateway to the wings of the museum exhibits themselves. It always surprises me how we actually find each other. The trick is to hover around the souvenir shops or to find me - the café.
It is afternoon. We start for the British Library. The Library has been on everyone's list. But, we are attempting to do it last. Part of the reason is that Library is slightly out of the flow of museums and attractions. It is by itself as an attraction. You cannot walk there. It is a newer building.
You have to go. There is only one room. It is a working research museum so access is by appointment. That does not matter. It is the exhibit room to the left of the escalator that holds the best reason to visit London.
The room is dark with lighted display cases. Very well done. As you move from the handwritten lyrics of the Beatles, Carroll's original manuscript, Magna Carta and Shakespeare sonnets, History is more real. It is that it is that moment when thought is put to paper and the action will follow. Did the author realize what greatness had begun. These were strong willed men and women. But, did they really realize.
The exhibit takes about 30-45 minutes which is great since the library is closing as we leave the building.
The kids discovered on Tuesday a small restaurant within a short walk of the apartment. The American Hamburger has been discovered in Europe. Well, the gourmet cheeseburger has been discovered. This is a chain in London called "Honest Burgers". I am sure the kids found on the restaurant on YELP. Betty had mentioned that the Onion Rings they brought home on Tuesday were the best she has had.
We are going to dinner at Honest Burger. We leave the apartment about 20:00 (8 PM). With John and Angela in the lead and Caroline and I as the rear guard. In London, streets are not straight. They change names frequently. A place you found easily on Tuesday is not easily located on Friday.
The difference is that you try a more direct route. Seriously, in London, you cannot guess on short cuts. John and Angela are confident until after about twenty minutes of walking they realize that we are walking in the wrong direction. It is fine with me. I am seeing great little bars and restaurants.
Logically, they guide us back to a starting point that they are confident of and arrive with 10 minutes.
It is about 19:00 (9PM) on a Friday night. I am concerned and hungry. But there is a table for four on the lower level (basement).
We have cheeseburgers, fries (honest, the fries in Europe are so much better), onion rings and beers.
One other thing about Europe and Hamburgers, when you say medium rare. You get medium rare. They cook the food to your order.
The food is delicious. Later on, I learn that there is an over production of meat in the UK. Farmers are complaining about the prices paid.
Tonight, I am happy to take advantage of this economic anomaly.
Tomorrow will leave London for Paris on the Eurostar.
I did not write a great deal the trip itself. On the trip to Italy, we had over eight weeks. So if we did not do today, there was tomorrow. Also, there was wonderment. Everything was an adventure and unexpected.
We did so much. Even though we often left the apartment around 10:30, we were exhausted by the end of the day. I also found that I needed my morning walks to think about what I wanted to write.
I wrote for a few days in London. I then skipped to Paris for a few days. John, Angela and Caroline were with us for a week in London and then the week in Paris. They flew home from Heathrow on April 17th. Betty and I stayed in London until April 25th.
London is huge. It is easy to get around. But, being a casual tourist, you do as you please. We also walked as often as possible which is the way to learn a city, but does take time. On a guided tour, their schedule will get to the sites needed to say you have seen London. But, I can tell you what flowers were blooming in Kensington Park. I know where the Iran embassy is in London.
Today, we have the two great cultural flagship of the British Empire.
We take the Tube to the British Museum. We arrive relatively early. I cannot image the crowds during the summer. Now, we see school groups from all over Europe, tourists (I am surprised by the number of French tourists), English families on holiday and international tourists.
The British Museum is a very cool place. The core buildings are good. But the layout is modern and efficient. You know it looked different fifty years ago, but it is difficult to visualize the layout as it was then.
We split up. Caroline and I take off for the café. We leisurely study the Mesopotamia period. We comment on the Assyrian. We investigate the Babylonian period. We seek wisdom from the early and middle Kingdom.
And, we view the Rosetta Stone. The stone is not large at all. The stone could easily have been overlooked for centuries. There is nothing remarkable in appearance or size. Like most problems, the solution to reading hieroglyphics was there all the time. It took a French man to stumble across it and the English to confiscate.
The British Museum has a great cafeteria. After lunch, Caroline and I move on to the Greece.
I know a secret. The Parthenon was not destroyed. It still exist. Half of it is in British Museum. The other half is the Louvre. Seriously, it is kind to say that the Earl of Elgin (Thomas Bruce) took "some of the surviving sculptures" after 2,000 years of damage from war and conquest. He took a lot more than "some". The Louvre portion is a result of Napoleon's army theory "it is nailed down, take the entire wall". Elgin's theory was to find the most corrupt bureaucrat he could find and with some "greasing" offer to take the sculptures back to England to protect them.
The British Museum's display of their collection is excellent. The museum has recreated a small Greek tomb/temple. It is impressive.
Caroline and I are now using the Museum map. We have surrendered to the museum. To examine the museum in any detail is two full days. No one does that since large portions may not be of interest to you. For example, I am not interested in Asian art and artifacts. It is a great collection. But, you only have two to three hours.
We are "mummy" shopping. As we search, I am aware of how little I know about the great ancient civilizations. Like the Etrusican display at the Vatican Museum, Western Historians pay so little attention to civilizations. We assume that the Egyptians and Greeks blossomed in a void. The winner gets to write the history books. Walk through the British Museum, you see that stealing on a grand scale is an ancient sport.
We find the Egyptian mummies. Come on admit in, you are thinking about the movie "Night in the Museum" Sequel 3 or something like that. You go to the British Museum to see mummies.
You will be disappoint. Go see them. They are a must. But, as I have often said, "you see one mummy, you have seen them all". Betty, who visited the Museum in the 1970's, mentions that the mummies exhibit is smaller. Makes sense.
When you travel Europe you soon realize how much of an attraction Da Vinci and Michelangelo are. It is a point of great pride for a museum to have a portion of the life production of these two men. The British Museum has a number of exhibits.
We hunt down Michelangelo's cartoon, the Epifania. It is not easy to find since it is right and then left from the mummies. And, yes, I said cartoon. I was not expecting Woody Woodpecker. But the word "cartoon" is difficult to visualize as a Michelangelo. A "cartoon" is the final preparatory work done by the artist prior to beginning the actual painting.
The Epifania cartoon is black chalk drawing on 26 sheets of paper. It is about 80 inches in height. The actual subject of the drawing is unknown. The painting was not started.
We return at the predetermined time to the large circular vestibule which is the gateway to the wings of the museum exhibits themselves. It always surprises me how we actually find each other. The trick is to hover around the souvenir shops or to find me - the café.
It is afternoon. We start for the British Library. The Library has been on everyone's list. But, we are attempting to do it last. Part of the reason is that Library is slightly out of the flow of museums and attractions. It is by itself as an attraction. You cannot walk there. It is a newer building.
You have to go. There is only one room. It is a working research museum so access is by appointment. That does not matter. It is the exhibit room to the left of the escalator that holds the best reason to visit London.
The room is dark with lighted display cases. Very well done. As you move from the handwritten lyrics of the Beatles, Carroll's original manuscript, Magna Carta and Shakespeare sonnets, History is more real. It is that it is that moment when thought is put to paper and the action will follow. Did the author realize what greatness had begun. These were strong willed men and women. But, did they really realize.
The exhibit takes about 30-45 minutes which is great since the library is closing as we leave the building.
The kids discovered on Tuesday a small restaurant within a short walk of the apartment. The American Hamburger has been discovered in Europe. Well, the gourmet cheeseburger has been discovered. This is a chain in London called "Honest Burgers". I am sure the kids found on the restaurant on YELP. Betty had mentioned that the Onion Rings they brought home on Tuesday were the best she has had.
We are going to dinner at Honest Burger. We leave the apartment about 20:00 (8 PM). With John and Angela in the lead and Caroline and I as the rear guard. In London, streets are not straight. They change names frequently. A place you found easily on Tuesday is not easily located on Friday.
The difference is that you try a more direct route. Seriously, in London, you cannot guess on short cuts. John and Angela are confident until after about twenty minutes of walking they realize that we are walking in the wrong direction. It is fine with me. I am seeing great little bars and restaurants.
Logically, they guide us back to a starting point that they are confident of and arrive with 10 minutes.
It is about 19:00 (9PM) on a Friday night. I am concerned and hungry. But there is a table for four on the lower level (basement).
We have cheeseburgers, fries (honest, the fries in Europe are so much better), onion rings and beers.
One other thing about Europe and Hamburgers, when you say medium rare. You get medium rare. They cook the food to your order.
The food is delicious. Later on, I learn that there is an over production of meat in the UK. Farmers are complaining about the prices paid.
Tonight, I am happy to take advantage of this economic anomaly.
Tomorrow will leave London for Paris on the Eurostar.
Wednesday, May 11, 2016
""Now, the red rim of the sun pushes itself over the London cloud-bank"
I look back on this day and it still overwhelms me.
On the agenda for the trip from the beginning was to do something "Harry Potter". Angela and Caroline are big fans of the books and the movies.
We discover that the remainder of the world remains fans also. Tickets to tours and events sold out quickly. Betty managed to get four tickets for the Warner Bros. London Studio Tour. The bus leaves at 18:30 (4:30 PM) from the tour office in London. It will be about a hour and half drive from London to the studio. The studio is twenty miles from the edge of London near Watford. The time will be spent in rush hour traffic.
We are out early. It is Thursday. We leave Saturday. The agenda is the Tower of London. We still have access with our London Pass. We take the Tube to Westminster Abbey. It is a short walk to the Thames boats docks.
There are a number of tour boats and also a commuter boat service (your Oyster Card is valid). Our London Pass includes the "City Cruise" line. All the tour boats are covered. They have outside seating which I am sure is lovely on a sunny July day. Today, we are very happy there is amble indoor seating. The cover is clear fiberglass with a clear view of both sides of the Thames.
For the tourist, London can be divided into two parts. I will name them Tudor and Parliament. The focal of the Parliament is Westminster Abbey and across the bridge Parliament. It is the parks, the palaces, the government, social, museums and shopping. By staying in Parliament, you have visited London.
The Tudor is down river towards the Atlantic. It is different. You have the Tower Bridge, St Paul's Cathedral, The Old Bailey, the Tower of London, The Globe and Greenwich. The area includes many of the newer expensive housing created from river warehouses, wharfs and docks along the Thames. I call it Tudor because the focal is the Tower of London.
The Tower of London is actually a castle. The beginning is with William the Conqueror in 1078. The castle/fortress not only protected London from foreign enemies and controlled river commerce, but also protected rulers from unruly nobles and from the London mobs (you never think of the English as unruly, but the kings of England lived in fear of the London populace as the French kings feared the mobs of Paris).
It is during the reign of the Tudors - Henry VIII and Elizabeth I that the Tower gained its reputation as prison and for execution.
Touring the Castle, museums and the Crown Jewels, takes about 2 hours. It involves a lot of walking and reading. For example, you learn the Tower was successfully overrun by a London Mob. The Tower was a informal zoo as a depository of animal gifts to royalty. Monkeys, lions, snakes and other exotic animals had the run of the place.
The zoo ended with the efforts of the Duke of Wellington who was a director and founding member of the London Zoo. The Duke made the Tower again a military barracks.
The weather has turned wetter and colder. We take the cruise boat back to Westminster Abbey dock. It is about 1:30. We had a quick lunch. London does not do lunches well.
It must be the cost of commercial real estate. Quick restaurants have little seating. Pret a Manger has got to be the largest chain. The sandwiches, pies and deserts are good and the choice is great, but a place to seat is impossible. You can be left standing and eating.
After disembarking, we take the Tube to the station near the Tour Office. It is early so we decide to visit the Royal Mews. "Mews" means "Stables". The Royal Mews is open to the public and actually a great and interesting to spend an hour or two. It is still very much still in use. You can view both historical carriages and current carriages used by the royal family and its member.
After the tour, we begin to look the tour office. We need to arrive early since we ordered the tickets online and there may be some confusion. We have the address and map. We are almost confident. In Europe with its mixture of old, outdated and new, it easy to become lost even with an address and map. In London, this is more true.
London has some of the best and worse examples of architecture in the world. The new construction in London tends to be innovative and trend setting - with nicknames like "loaf of bread", "the toaster" and "beehive'. On the other side, you have Christopher Wren. In between, you have functional ugly.
It is the period of the fifties and early sixties. London needed to be rebuilt. The damage done to London by Germany in WWII was much more extensive than I knew. The British economy was in shambles. So low cost construction - both methods and materials - was the answer to quick occupancy. There was a general irreverence to historical buildings and preservation of heritage. It is always easier to demolition.
The tour office are located inside a commercial office mall. It takes some time, but we resolve the confusion and we board the tour company's double decker bus. There are light, intermediate showers so we are in the inside lower level. It is a full bus and is not comfortable seating.
The windows fog up as we pass through the city at about five miles an hour. Drivers in London are very talented aggressive drivers. As a pedestrian, I actually feel safer in Paris and Rome. First, I know what direction the vehicles are coming from. Secondly, They only want to scare you. London drivers want to hit you - only slightly granted. In London, there appears to be no rules.
London has no freeways. There are no express lanes. There are only a few major routes out of the city and access streets to those large streets are complex and limited.
About 18;30 (6:30 PM), we arrive the Warner Bros Studio complex. The building in front of the parking area is devoted to "Harry Potter". This is not a studio tour. It is an industry. It is somewhat like the Universal Tour in LA. But with only one movie as its theme.
There are a lot of tour groups even at this evening hour. It is an all day event. The tour at your own pace is about two hours. It is an enjoyable and informative two hours.
My thought after viewing the sets, the costumes and art is that these are very talented people and that movies will not be made this way in the future. These artists are losing their profession.
Much of Harry Potter movie sets were actually created. The actors moved in three dimension. The camera moved over an actual "Hogwarts". Granted it was a model "Hogwarts", but a very large and very detailed model.
Artists applied extensive robotics and makeup to create a giant. An artist actually painted all the paintings on the walls. There is train.
Now, there is CGI. Now, actors act in a void against a green screen. Actors voice over the computer generated giants. I am confident that there was use of "green screen" with Harry Potter. But, there was also "things". I doubt that if studios wanted to they could not have a tour of the "Avengers"movie sets. A ride, definitely. I like this better than a ride.
We all note that the movie world is 7/8 scale. It is a smaller world actors look bigger, Actors, in general, are not big people. It does have to do with what the camera sees and how it sees it.
We finish at the cafeteria. We are hungry. I try the "butter beer". Not bad, but once in a lifetime.
Last bus is 21:00 (9:00 PM). I am worried about seating. No problem. The drive back to London seems almost as slow, but I am sure it is our fatigue. The bus has a pre-designated stop for a group to access their hotel. The kids take the initiative. We exit and take the Tube back to the apartment.
I am exhausted. Tomorrow - the British Museum and the British Library.
On the agenda for the trip from the beginning was to do something "Harry Potter". Angela and Caroline are big fans of the books and the movies.
We discover that the remainder of the world remains fans also. Tickets to tours and events sold out quickly. Betty managed to get four tickets for the Warner Bros. London Studio Tour. The bus leaves at 18:30 (4:30 PM) from the tour office in London. It will be about a hour and half drive from London to the studio. The studio is twenty miles from the edge of London near Watford. The time will be spent in rush hour traffic.
We are out early. It is Thursday. We leave Saturday. The agenda is the Tower of London. We still have access with our London Pass. We take the Tube to Westminster Abbey. It is a short walk to the Thames boats docks.
There are a number of tour boats and also a commuter boat service (your Oyster Card is valid). Our London Pass includes the "City Cruise" line. All the tour boats are covered. They have outside seating which I am sure is lovely on a sunny July day. Today, we are very happy there is amble indoor seating. The cover is clear fiberglass with a clear view of both sides of the Thames.For the tourist, London can be divided into two parts. I will name them Tudor and Parliament. The focal of the Parliament is Westminster Abbey and across the bridge Parliament. It is the parks, the palaces, the government, social, museums and shopping. By staying in Parliament, you have visited London.
The Tudor is down river towards the Atlantic. It is different. You have the Tower Bridge, St Paul's Cathedral, The Old Bailey, the Tower of London, The Globe and Greenwich. The area includes many of the newer expensive housing created from river warehouses, wharfs and docks along the Thames. I call it Tudor because the focal is the Tower of London.
The Tower of London is actually a castle. The beginning is with William the Conqueror in 1078. The castle/fortress not only protected London from foreign enemies and controlled river commerce, but also protected rulers from unruly nobles and from the London mobs (you never think of the English as unruly, but the kings of England lived in fear of the London populace as the French kings feared the mobs of Paris).
It is during the reign of the Tudors - Henry VIII and Elizabeth I that the Tower gained its reputation as prison and for execution.
Touring the Castle, museums and the Crown Jewels, takes about 2 hours. It involves a lot of walking and reading. For example, you learn the Tower was successfully overrun by a London Mob. The Tower was a informal zoo as a depository of animal gifts to royalty. Monkeys, lions, snakes and other exotic animals had the run of the place.The zoo ended with the efforts of the Duke of Wellington who was a director and founding member of the London Zoo. The Duke made the Tower again a military barracks.
The weather has turned wetter and colder. We take the cruise boat back to Westminster Abbey dock. It is about 1:30. We had a quick lunch. London does not do lunches well.
It must be the cost of commercial real estate. Quick restaurants have little seating. Pret a Manger has got to be the largest chain. The sandwiches, pies and deserts are good and the choice is great, but a place to seat is impossible. You can be left standing and eating.
After disembarking, we take the Tube to the station near the Tour Office. It is early so we decide to visit the Royal Mews. "Mews" means "Stables". The Royal Mews is open to the public and actually a great and interesting to spend an hour or two. It is still very much still in use. You can view both historical carriages and current carriages used by the royal family and its member. After the tour, we begin to look the tour office. We need to arrive early since we ordered the tickets online and there may be some confusion. We have the address and map. We are almost confident. In Europe with its mixture of old, outdated and new, it easy to become lost even with an address and map. In London, this is more true.
London has some of the best and worse examples of architecture in the world. The new construction in London tends to be innovative and trend setting - with nicknames like "loaf of bread", "the toaster" and "beehive'. On the other side, you have Christopher Wren. In between, you have functional ugly.
It is the period of the fifties and early sixties. London needed to be rebuilt. The damage done to London by Germany in WWII was much more extensive than I knew. The British economy was in shambles. So low cost construction - both methods and materials - was the answer to quick occupancy. There was a general irreverence to historical buildings and preservation of heritage. It is always easier to demolition.
The tour office are located inside a commercial office mall. It takes some time, but we resolve the confusion and we board the tour company's double decker bus. There are light, intermediate showers so we are in the inside lower level. It is a full bus and is not comfortable seating.
The windows fog up as we pass through the city at about five miles an hour. Drivers in London are very talented aggressive drivers. As a pedestrian, I actually feel safer in Paris and Rome. First, I know what direction the vehicles are coming from. Secondly, They only want to scare you. London drivers want to hit you - only slightly granted. In London, there appears to be no rules.
London has no freeways. There are no express lanes. There are only a few major routes out of the city and access streets to those large streets are complex and limited.
About 18;30 (6:30 PM), we arrive the Warner Bros Studio complex. The building in front of the parking area is devoted to "Harry Potter". This is not a studio tour. It is an industry. It is somewhat like the Universal Tour in LA. But with only one movie as its theme.
There are a lot of tour groups even at this evening hour. It is an all day event. The tour at your own pace is about two hours. It is an enjoyable and informative two hours.
My thought after viewing the sets, the costumes and art is that these are very talented people and that movies will not be made this way in the future. These artists are losing their profession.Much of Harry Potter movie sets were actually created. The actors moved in three dimension. The camera moved over an actual "Hogwarts". Granted it was a model "Hogwarts", but a very large and very detailed model.
Artists applied extensive robotics and makeup to create a giant. An artist actually painted all the paintings on the walls. There is train.
Now, there is CGI. Now, actors act in a void against a green screen. Actors voice over the computer generated giants. I am confident that there was use of "green screen" with Harry Potter. But, there was also "things". I doubt that if studios wanted to they could not have a tour of the "Avengers"movie sets. A ride, definitely. I like this better than a ride.
We all note that the movie world is 7/8 scale. It is a smaller world actors look bigger, Actors, in general, are not big people. It does have to do with what the camera sees and how it sees it.
We finish at the cafeteria. We are hungry. I try the "butter beer". Not bad, but once in a lifetime.
Last bus is 21:00 (9:00 PM). I am worried about seating. No problem. The drive back to London seems almost as slow, but I am sure it is our fatigue. The bus has a pre-designated stop for a group to access their hotel. The kids take the initiative. We exit and take the Tube back to the apartment.
I am exhausted. Tomorrow - the British Museum and the British Library.
Sunday, May 8, 2016
"Goddesse" "It's French - for goddess"
This episode is out of sequence. I thought I had published and apparently had not. Obviously, Paris was our last day.
The day begins with Starbucks. As you travel, there is one truth. Money exchanges are expensive. You try to finish the trip with as little on that country's currency as possible. I have been trying to reduce my horde of Euros, particularly, the coins.
Outside the US, there are no $1.00 bills. 1 & 2 euros and pound sterlings are coins. So coins are easy to accumulate. Secondly, because it is often time consuming to come up with exact or reasonably close coins when paying a bill and, to be honest, because of the language, you tend to hand over the largest closest bill you have and wait for change.
I have gotten fairly proficient in using change in my pocket. My solution today is to over tip at Starbucks.
We will take a taxi to the Gare de Nord (train station). Paris and London have a separate station for each direction. In Paris, it is easy if you speak French - the Gare (station) is the name of the direction. Gare de Nord goes North to London.
I know of one exception the night train to Milan also leaves from Gare de Nord. But, that is another story.
We know we will use a taxi. It is beginning to drizzle. Use of the Metro is out of the question. Our memory is that the Gare looks simple on the map but it involves a lot of walking and stairs.
I have no idea as to the cost of a cab. We know what it cost when we arrived and we know what the landlord's handbook says. There is a very good chance that the taxi will accept credit card. I estimate that about 40% do.
So I take 60 euros from the ATM. There goes the plan.
I am a reasonably good traveling companion. Not the best, but not bad either. I am open to try anything. I do like to eat when I am hungry. But, I do get nervous and grumpy about being late for reservations, trains and planes. I like to be early. This is particularly true when I am doing something for the first time.
So I am unhappy. We did not make reservations for a taxi. When Angela and Caroline try the Landlord's Manual, the recommended cab company (the English speaking one is useless and does not sound very trustworthy) and the French one does not answer the phone.
We need to be at the Station, at least, thirty minutes ahead because of security checks. The Eurostar for London leaves at 13:04 (1:04 PM). The tickets are expensive and the trains are full.
It is about 11;30 when we leave to apartment. It is raining. We are on the wrong side of the street. (in Paris, cabs and buses have designated lanes. There are five and we have luggage.
I am not happy and show it. As I said, not one of my better moments. We are moving towards to Metro station as a last resort. But, St Michel Metro is about a 7 block walk. A walk made difficult by trying to hail a cab.
Suddenly, a cab stops on the other side of the street. He waves. I dodge traffic leaving the others to cross more safely. I want salvation. And, I know it when I see it.
The driver says sure we have room. "Hold your carryon on your laps". "You, Monsieur, in front with me ". He turns on the meter and we are off.
We talk to him. The usual questions. "How long?" "Where are you from". We always answer "California". Europeans love anything and anyone from California.
We pull up to Gard de Nord. The bill is 15 euros. I give him 20 euros. I am generous, relieved and I still have too many euros.
Inside we look at the big broad and no Eurostar. The problem with being a stranger in a strange land is the first time is never smooth. If you have the choice, try to travel with a companion that has been to that strange land at least, once and recently.
The Eurostar security and waiting area is on the mezzanine level. You can take the escalator or the elevator. I am frustrated. Caroline follows me and we ask "Information" and move in the general direction of the point. John, Angela and Betty take another tactic.
They get to ticket check-in first. My electronic ticket is not where I think it is. Betty, to the rescue with the paper copy.
My only defense who would think you have to go to the second floor of a train station to catch a train. The answer is that the Eurostar - Paris to London - needs to separate Eurostar passengers from other destinations and there is not room on the platform areas on the first floor.
I buy chocolates with my euros. Liquor in Europe is very expensive, even at duty free shops. Scotch Whiskey, Rum, Gin and Vodka have high tariffs to begin with and that is before the exchange rate. All are less expensive at Costco.
This Eurostar is newer. We have seats facing each other. Other than Angela, who has a French couple with their little daughter sitting with her. I would offer to change places, but I am content and my legs can stretch out. I am even happier that the concession train is next train up. A diet Coke and potato chips calms my nerves.
Apparently, there was an important football match in Paris. Our "standard" coach has a number of blokes on the way home. Nice bunch of guys. They are suffering various degrees of hangover.
In and out of St Pancras station and to a black cab. We get it all in. We give him the address from the reservation (we have learnt to be prepared). Within fifteen minutes, we are at the Millennium Gloucester Hotel in Kensington.
Tomorrow - the rest of the story.
"You have the grand gift of silence, Watson; it makes you quite invaluable as a companion"
It is Wednesday in London. The apartment is working out fairly well. John and Angela's bedroom is too warm. Caroline's room is cool. Our bedroom is just right.
We are all fighting slight colds. We have not experienced jet lag per se. No headache. No sleep disorder. As with the last trip, flying to Europe, you are flying into the new day. You take off in the late afternoon and land mid to late morning the next day. So you go through day/night/day scenario.
What you do experience is traveling 16-22 hours. Of course, not on the plane that is only 10-11 hours. When you consider time to airport, checking in, connections and flight in a confined space, you are physically tired.
Today we have matinee tickets for the theatre (notice spelling - very English). It is London. We will not have visited London properly if we did not go to the West End.
We really wanted to attend a Shakespeare play. But, April seems to be an in-between month. Plays and performances are ending and new performances have not yet begun. Plays and performers sell out quickly. London theatre, similar to New York and Chicago, has discount ticket booths for that days performances. We buy online which is not too bad. There is five of us. That is a large group for discount tickets which are usually one or two seats together.
So what do you do in London until 14:00 (2 PM)? Why, you go to Buckingham Palace to view the changing of the guard.
We arrive about 20 minutes to eleven. We are winging this. Maybe John and Angela have done research. I have no idea what to expect. You line up against the iron fence that circles the entrance courtyard to the Palace. Caroline and I take position quickly and we are in front with a great view. We are about 60 yards from the center of the courtyard and to the right of the gates. John and Angela move to a different position along the fence.
Nothing happens. Well, the two guards on either side of the main door do come to attention individually and walk. The soldiers of the Household Guard are shouldering loaded automatic rifles. The weapons are current model and most likely standard issue. They move with an exaggerated arm swing with the free arm. My first guess is that it was to exercise and keep the legs from cramping. I now think it is a ceremonial review of the grounds.
The changing of the Household Guard is very symbolic. My only point of reference is the US Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. In that case, the ceremony takes about 10 minutes from beginning to end. It does happen every hour and at certain times of the year more often.
This changing of the Household Guard happens most often once a day weather permitting. It involves the changing of the entire regiment not simply a single guard. Also, as opposed to the Tomb guard, this pageantry is affected by the time of the year. The pageant is daily from April to end of July and then only on alternate days for the remainder of the year.
The guards for that 24 hours duty are housed to the right of the main door to the Palace. My guess that the team is an officer and NCO and eight infantry men (as with the Old Guard/Honor Guard for the Tomb, these are trained infantry and are the first line of security).
At the beginning the Officer and NCO appear and inspect the two guards on duty. Then in a ceremonial step with arms swinging and sword held upright, they walk back a forth of the area in front of the Palace. It is definitely ceremonial. It is about 60 yards to the left and turn in a back step and then 60 yards to the left side of the courtyard. They do this 10 times. They must know that ground really well.
The Household Guard wear the large hairy black caps. I presume at one time they were made from black bearskins. The cap is 18 inches in height and weighs about 1.8 pounds. I googled it. The height of the Guards differ. Apparently, as opposed to the US Tomb Guards (6'2") and Old Guard "6'", the Household Guard have no height requirements to serve.
There is no commentary - even whispered. So, as this inspection is happening, you are starting to think - please stop with the walking. Then, you hear the band music playing a regimental favorite. The right gate opens an marches the regiment band followed by a whole company of Guards.
This is the Company of the Guard Team being replaced. There are about 80 soldiers in the courtyard. This officer and NCO ceremonially inspect the courtyard. The same distances, the same walk and the same number of times. Get comfortable, this happens over and over again.
Nothing is happening with the two stationed guards. The guard team to be relieved (replaced) appears and joins their Company in the courtyard. More inspects of the ground beneath their feet.
Again, military music announces the entrance through the left gate of the replacing guards and their company including their own marching band. The music is enjoyable and they do offer up later a few Elton John songs.
Of course, the band has their own ceremonial inspections. More inspections and more walking the grounds. We are about forty minutes into this pageantry and the guards are still at attention in front of their wood cubicle shelter.
With the serenade over, the events begin to move quickly. New guards are posted. The previous guards join their company. The bands and the new company marches out first. The previous guards and their band march out.
The entire pageantry takes slightly over an hour. The crowd is large. I cannot image the size during peak tourist season. You need to go. But, only once. And as always, read about the ceremony the night before. It is always a big help.
John and Angela find Caroline and I. We start to walk. It is about 12:30. Buckingham Palace is very close to Trafalgar Square. We want to be close to the underground station where Betty will meet us prior to the play. We split up. Caroline and I discover the National Art Gallery is a few blocks away. So, of course, it is the café. We do discuss art. I think.
The international call plan proves again worth the money. Betty has taken a taxi. We are on our way to The Prince of Wales Theatre to see "The Book of Mormon". The musical is excellent.The leads are both Americans.
The theatre seating is not well engineered. The seats are not spaced correctly so line of sight is blocked by the people in front of you if they do not sit up very straight and are short. The theatre appears renovated so the expected theatre goer is short and has great posture.
John is bothered the most. The couple in front of him are in love.
With the play over, we are hungry. Angela has a referral to a Ramen noodle restaurant. Now, come on, did you really know that there is such a thing as a Ramen Noodle Bar and that there is a list of the top ten on Yelp. Apparently, London has a lot and they are chains.
Wagamama is in the lower level just off Piccadilly Square. The menu is various types of combinations of Japanese noodles and ingredients. The other half is various types of curry.
We are sake - room temperature as it should be - only poor quality sake is served warm. We do it twice. A beer with curry dish, I am feeling fine.
As we leave, the line is out of the door.
We walk to Coventry Garden for the second time. It has turned slightly colder and still the outside crowds are large. Before taking the Tube back, we do a little shopping at Marks & Spencer (M&S).
Tomorrow. the Tower of London and Harry Potter.
We are all fighting slight colds. We have not experienced jet lag per se. No headache. No sleep disorder. As with the last trip, flying to Europe, you are flying into the new day. You take off in the late afternoon and land mid to late morning the next day. So you go through day/night/day scenario.
What you do experience is traveling 16-22 hours. Of course, not on the plane that is only 10-11 hours. When you consider time to airport, checking in, connections and flight in a confined space, you are physically tired.Today we have matinee tickets for the theatre (notice spelling - very English). It is London. We will not have visited London properly if we did not go to the West End.
We really wanted to attend a Shakespeare play. But, April seems to be an in-between month. Plays and performances are ending and new performances have not yet begun. Plays and performers sell out quickly. London theatre, similar to New York and Chicago, has discount ticket booths for that days performances. We buy online which is not too bad. There is five of us. That is a large group for discount tickets which are usually one or two seats together.
So what do you do in London until 14:00 (2 PM)? Why, you go to Buckingham Palace to view the changing of the guard.
We arrive about 20 minutes to eleven. We are winging this. Maybe John and Angela have done research. I have no idea what to expect. You line up against the iron fence that circles the entrance courtyard to the Palace. Caroline and I take position quickly and we are in front with a great view. We are about 60 yards from the center of the courtyard and to the right of the gates. John and Angela move to a different position along the fence.
Nothing happens. Well, the two guards on either side of the main door do come to attention individually and walk. The soldiers of the Household Guard are shouldering loaded automatic rifles. The weapons are current model and most likely standard issue. They move with an exaggerated arm swing with the free arm. My first guess is that it was to exercise and keep the legs from cramping. I now think it is a ceremonial review of the grounds.
The changing of the Household Guard is very symbolic. My only point of reference is the US Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. In that case, the ceremony takes about 10 minutes from beginning to end. It does happen every hour and at certain times of the year more often.
This changing of the Household Guard happens most often once a day weather permitting. It involves the changing of the entire regiment not simply a single guard. Also, as opposed to the Tomb guard, this pageantry is affected by the time of the year. The pageant is daily from April to end of July and then only on alternate days for the remainder of the year.
The guards for that 24 hours duty are housed to the right of the main door to the Palace. My guess that the team is an officer and NCO and eight infantry men (as with the Old Guard/Honor Guard for the Tomb, these are trained infantry and are the first line of security).
At the beginning the Officer and NCO appear and inspect the two guards on duty. Then in a ceremonial step with arms swinging and sword held upright, they walk back a forth of the area in front of the Palace. It is definitely ceremonial. It is about 60 yards to the left and turn in a back step and then 60 yards to the left side of the courtyard. They do this 10 times. They must know that ground really well. The Household Guard wear the large hairy black caps. I presume at one time they were made from black bearskins. The cap is 18 inches in height and weighs about 1.8 pounds. I googled it. The height of the Guards differ. Apparently, as opposed to the US Tomb Guards (6'2") and Old Guard "6'", the Household Guard have no height requirements to serve.
There is no commentary - even whispered. So, as this inspection is happening, you are starting to think - please stop with the walking. Then, you hear the band music playing a regimental favorite. The right gate opens an marches the regiment band followed by a whole company of Guards.
This is the Company of the Guard Team being replaced. There are about 80 soldiers in the courtyard. This officer and NCO ceremonially inspect the courtyard. The same distances, the same walk and the same number of times. Get comfortable, this happens over and over again.
Nothing is happening with the two stationed guards. The guard team to be relieved (replaced) appears and joins their Company in the courtyard. More inspects of the ground beneath their feet.
Again, military music announces the entrance through the left gate of the replacing guards and their company including their own marching band. The music is enjoyable and they do offer up later a few Elton John songs.
Of course, the band has their own ceremonial inspections. More inspections and more walking the grounds. We are about forty minutes into this pageantry and the guards are still at attention in front of their wood cubicle shelter.
With the serenade over, the events begin to move quickly. New guards are posted. The previous guards join their company. The bands and the new company marches out first. The previous guards and their band march out.
The entire pageantry takes slightly over an hour. The crowd is large. I cannot image the size during peak tourist season. You need to go. But, only once. And as always, read about the ceremony the night before. It is always a big help.
John and Angela find Caroline and I. We start to walk. It is about 12:30. Buckingham Palace is very close to Trafalgar Square. We want to be close to the underground station where Betty will meet us prior to the play. We split up. Caroline and I discover the National Art Gallery is a few blocks away. So, of course, it is the café. We do discuss art. I think.The international call plan proves again worth the money. Betty has taken a taxi. We are on our way to The Prince of Wales Theatre to see "The Book of Mormon". The musical is excellent.The leads are both Americans.
The theatre seating is not well engineered. The seats are not spaced correctly so line of sight is blocked by the people in front of you if they do not sit up very straight and are short. The theatre appears renovated so the expected theatre goer is short and has great posture.
John is bothered the most. The couple in front of him are in love.
With the play over, we are hungry. Angela has a referral to a Ramen noodle restaurant. Now, come on, did you really know that there is such a thing as a Ramen Noodle Bar and that there is a list of the top ten on Yelp. Apparently, London has a lot and they are chains.
Wagamama is in the lower level just off Piccadilly Square. The menu is various types of combinations of Japanese noodles and ingredients. The other half is various types of curry.
We are sake - room temperature as it should be - only poor quality sake is served warm. We do it twice. A beer with curry dish, I am feeling fine.
As we leave, the line is out of the door.
We walk to Coventry Garden for the second time. It has turned slightly colder and still the outside crowds are large. Before taking the Tube back, we do a little shopping at Marks & Spencer (M&S).
Tomorrow. the Tower of London and Harry Potter.
Friday, May 6, 2016
"Back to the Future"
There is an Indian wedding. I have to attend an Indian wedding celebration. It is now on my bucket list.
This Saturday night, I am less than pleased that our hotel room is seven floors above the event. The room vibrates starting about 9:00. It is a continual bass drum beat. It starts loud and pounding and becomes louder. If I was dancing, I would be on the tables.
I am in bed trying to sleep. Caroline is sharing the room with Betty and I. She is closest to the window and I am sure that it is worse for her. I saw the wedding guest downstairs when we returned from a light dinner. John and I went for a drink in the hotel bar. The women were dressed for the occasion in beautiful saris. What damage those ladies did to my sleep patterns.
I call the front desk. The music will stop at 11:00. It does. What the wedding party must have paid the hotel for that wedding. Caroline points out in the morning that the hotel must have known about the loud music. After all, this is London. At checking in, the desk should have told us about the wedding and music ending at 11:00. John and Angela did not hear a thing. Their room faced out to the street. Our room faced into the courtyards.
I am still trying to decided if part of my checking in process should include "is there an Indian wedding tonight".
John gained a valuable lesson while having that after dinner drink. "Do not order a mixed drink in Europe, and that includes UK." First, bartenders do not know how to make most American cocktails. Secondly, they are very careful to pour as little alcohol as possible. Alcohol is expensive. Order less, save money.
My advice is to order wine, a beer, aperitif or "neat" (whiskey, no ice and water to the side). Betty experienced the widest range of attempts at Margaritas possible. To be honest, some of our local US restaurants are poor also. And they have no excuse.
We meet for breakfast. Betty negotiated our stay to include either a full breakfast buffet or a Continental breakfast. We all want to experience ". a "full English Breakfast".
There are ups and downs to a full breakfast. It does include baked beans. It has great tomatoes. The bacon is a cross between thin sliced ham and Canadian bacon fried. Eggs are either sunnyside up poached or scrambled (watery). The "bangers" sausage are somewhat spicy, about the size of a small bratwurst and tasty.
I think I covered the menu well. The entire buffet is large and includes breakfast foods for all tastes. There is coffee for the table which is great. Still no "cream" or "half & half", but it is coffee and lots of it.
The kids leave for the airport about noon. They have a four o'clock flight direct back to the US. We are about 40 minutes from Heathrow. Being Sunday and flying international, better to arrive early. It is goodbye. They all have long journeys ahead of them and back to work tomorrow on Monday. With the time difference, Betty and I do not expect to hear from them until Tuesday.
There is also the issue of communication. Our $40 per phone International Plan expired on the 15th. I have taken the risk of Verizon $10 per day unlimited package. The plan is fine as long as you do not use it. Simply you are only charged the $10 per day if you use minutes, text or data during that specific 24 hour period. If you do, then according to Verizon, you are not charged.
We will see when we get out bill for April. In theory, we will be able to use hotel WIFI for data and text (IMessage uses WIFI not cellular) and Skype or FaceTime for phone calls.
Betty and I are alone. It has been great with the kids. I know we will do it again if they are willing. But, it is nice to be just of the two of us with a TV that works (Paris, despite promises that it would be hooked up, never was) and a decent screen (something other than a TV screen the size of a small laptop).
I have energy. We need a few things like toothpaste. The weather is no bad. It is dry. I decided to find 221 b Baker Street. John and Angela came very close on our first Sunday in London. They had decided to walk back to the Notting Hill Apartment when the London system informed us that the route we needed to take was shutdown. Caroline guided us on the Tube. They walked.
I find that the hotel is on the opposite side of Kensington Park from the Nottin Hill apartment. I walk up Kensington Rd to Hyde Park. I crossover and proceed to get lost - well almost. Since I have cellular for $10. I turn on Google Map and type in 221 b Baker Street. Nothing. Then I remember that the address is fictitious. I type in Sherlock Holmes and there are the directions. Well, at least, directions to the Sherlock Holmes Museum which is almost at 221 b Baker Street.
Apparently, there have been lawsuits about who has the right to the fictitious address and the right to claim that the building there is at the fictitious address. In Doyle's time, construction and buildings on Baker Street ended well prior to the 200 block. It would have been open ground.
Of course, I take photos. I cross the street since I neither need nor want to pay for my photo with the constable in front of the Sherlock Holmes museum. There is no line, but there is a flow of tourist who do.
I am hungry. I just want to sit have a coffee and donut. My salvation is a Dunkn Donut
I walk back on a different route. I am fairly confident of the direction I need to be going. In theory, I am not lost, but I want to see more of London. London, like Chicago, changes ethnic neighborhoods quickly. I pass through a Muslim neighborhood. Arabic store signs are my insight. It is London with different subtitles that is all.
I walk towards the Park. I see another church. It is Catholic. Apparently, the churches in London kept track of the number of believers slain by the opposing belief. It was bloody.
I cross Kensington Park and work my way to the hotel. It is a very pleasant hotel owned by a hotel group based in London. Location could not be better. The Glouster Rd. Underground station is across the street. Internally, the station is current. The outside looks as it did 100 years ago. Albert/Victoria Museum is down the street. The Natural Museum is a little further.
Small restaurants across the street that have takeaway. There is a Starbucks. I am happy.
The hotel is very nice. The staff is efficient and pleasant. The room and bathroom is large by European standards. The bathroom has a shower and shower curtain. The TV has cable.
As with Italy, the most frequent TV show is "Murder She Wrote". I think we both had expectations that we would have this great menu of BBC shows. Yes, there is Midsommer Mysteries, but just like US, the shows are reruns.
Now, Back to the Future. The next blog will be back to the first week in London with the kids. Why, because I can.
This Saturday night, I am less than pleased that our hotel room is seven floors above the event. The room vibrates starting about 9:00. It is a continual bass drum beat. It starts loud and pounding and becomes louder. If I was dancing, I would be on the tables.
I am in bed trying to sleep. Caroline is sharing the room with Betty and I. She is closest to the window and I am sure that it is worse for her. I saw the wedding guest downstairs when we returned from a light dinner. John and I went for a drink in the hotel bar. The women were dressed for the occasion in beautiful saris. What damage those ladies did to my sleep patterns.
I call the front desk. The music will stop at 11:00. It does. What the wedding party must have paid the hotel for that wedding. Caroline points out in the morning that the hotel must have known about the loud music. After all, this is London. At checking in, the desk should have told us about the wedding and music ending at 11:00. John and Angela did not hear a thing. Their room faced out to the street. Our room faced into the courtyards.
I am still trying to decided if part of my checking in process should include "is there an Indian wedding tonight".
John gained a valuable lesson while having that after dinner drink. "Do not order a mixed drink in Europe, and that includes UK." First, bartenders do not know how to make most American cocktails. Secondly, they are very careful to pour as little alcohol as possible. Alcohol is expensive. Order less, save money.
My advice is to order wine, a beer, aperitif or "neat" (whiskey, no ice and water to the side). Betty experienced the widest range of attempts at Margaritas possible. To be honest, some of our local US restaurants are poor also. And they have no excuse.
We meet for breakfast. Betty negotiated our stay to include either a full breakfast buffet or a Continental breakfast. We all want to experience ". a "full English Breakfast".
There are ups and downs to a full breakfast. It does include baked beans. It has great tomatoes. The bacon is a cross between thin sliced ham and Canadian bacon fried. Eggs are either sunnyside up poached or scrambled (watery). The "bangers" sausage are somewhat spicy, about the size of a small bratwurst and tasty.
I think I covered the menu well. The entire buffet is large and includes breakfast foods for all tastes. There is coffee for the table which is great. Still no "cream" or "half & half", but it is coffee and lots of it.
The kids leave for the airport about noon. They have a four o'clock flight direct back to the US. We are about 40 minutes from Heathrow. Being Sunday and flying international, better to arrive early. It is goodbye. They all have long journeys ahead of them and back to work tomorrow on Monday. With the time difference, Betty and I do not expect to hear from them until Tuesday.
There is also the issue of communication. Our $40 per phone International Plan expired on the 15th. I have taken the risk of Verizon $10 per day unlimited package. The plan is fine as long as you do not use it. Simply you are only charged the $10 per day if you use minutes, text or data during that specific 24 hour period. If you do, then according to Verizon, you are not charged.
We will see when we get out bill for April. In theory, we will be able to use hotel WIFI for data and text (IMessage uses WIFI not cellular) and Skype or FaceTime for phone calls.
Betty and I are alone. It has been great with the kids. I know we will do it again if they are willing. But, it is nice to be just of the two of us with a TV that works (Paris, despite promises that it would be hooked up, never was) and a decent screen (something other than a TV screen the size of a small laptop).
I have energy. We need a few things like toothpaste. The weather is no bad. It is dry. I decided to find 221 b Baker Street. John and Angela came very close on our first Sunday in London. They had decided to walk back to the Notting Hill Apartment when the London system informed us that the route we needed to take was shutdown. Caroline guided us on the Tube. They walked.
I find that the hotel is on the opposite side of Kensington Park from the Nottin Hill apartment. I walk up Kensington Rd to Hyde Park. I crossover and proceed to get lost - well almost. Since I have cellular for $10. I turn on Google Map and type in 221 b Baker Street. Nothing. Then I remember that the address is fictitious. I type in Sherlock Holmes and there are the directions. Well, at least, directions to the Sherlock Holmes Museum which is almost at 221 b Baker Street.
Apparently, there have been lawsuits about who has the right to the fictitious address and the right to claim that the building there is at the fictitious address. In Doyle's time, construction and buildings on Baker Street ended well prior to the 200 block. It would have been open ground.
Of course, I take photos. I cross the street since I neither need nor want to pay for my photo with the constable in front of the Sherlock Holmes museum. There is no line, but there is a flow of tourist who do.
I am hungry. I just want to sit have a coffee and donut. My salvation is a Dunkn Donut
I walk back on a different route. I am fairly confident of the direction I need to be going. In theory, I am not lost, but I want to see more of London. London, like Chicago, changes ethnic neighborhoods quickly. I pass through a Muslim neighborhood. Arabic store signs are my insight. It is London with different subtitles that is all.
I walk towards the Park. I see another church. It is Catholic. Apparently, the churches in London kept track of the number of believers slain by the opposing belief. It was bloody.
I cross Kensington Park and work my way to the hotel. It is a very pleasant hotel owned by a hotel group based in London. Location could not be better. The Glouster Rd. Underground station is across the street. Internally, the station is current. The outside looks as it did 100 years ago. Albert/Victoria Museum is down the street. The Natural Museum is a little further.
Small restaurants across the street that have takeaway. There is a Starbucks. I am happy.
The hotel is very nice. The staff is efficient and pleasant. The room and bathroom is large by European standards. The bathroom has a shower and shower curtain. The TV has cable.
As with Italy, the most frequent TV show is "Murder She Wrote". I think we both had expectations that we would have this great menu of BBC shows. Yes, there is Midsommer Mysteries, but just like US, the shows are reruns.
Now, Back to the Future. The next blog will be back to the first week in London with the kids. Why, because I can.
Wednesday, May 4, 2016
"The French wine and cheeses put his ambition to bay"
We are exhausted. We have seen everything on everyone's agenda. Well, not quite yet.
It is our last full day in Paris. The fifth floor is no longer a challenge. The stairs have won. The apartment and the bathroom has gotten smaller. The kitchen and refrigerator are no longer cute. There are clothes everywhere.
We are in Paris. It cannot get any better.
We have different agendas. John and Angela are still up for more sightseeing. They are heading to the Hotel de Invalides and the War Museum. We had run out of time on Tuesday.
Betty, Caroline and I are heading to the Montparnasse neighborhood of Paris. We stayed there on our last visit. We have fond memories. We want to take Caroline.
The area is very close to our apartment. It is a walk through Luxemburg. We take the Metro. Because of destinations and access to the RER, we have not used the Metro often. Also, I think I want to prove that we still remember how to do it. For two weeks, the kids have lead. We want to be on our own.
The London Underground (Tube) is color coded. For example, the Circle is yellow. In Paris, the Metro is numerical and color coded. But, stay with the number.
Today, it is Number 4 line. As with London, you determine direction of the train by its final station. Four stops and we exit at Varin station. The weather is becoming cloudy. We are looking for the cafe' that Betty and I ate at before the train to Milan. We choose Le Select. It is my homage to Hemingway. Once more time. Why not. It would be a shame to say later "why".
The food is good. Not great, but good. There are not a lot of people. Several younger ladies at a table near by. The tourists have not yet arrived.
The French smoke a lot. In the morning, cigarette butts are in the street. Yes, the sidewalks are water down every morning. The young and old smoke. Camel Golds and "roll your own" seem common. You do see some electronic. I am sure it is coincidence, but France and Italy, two countries with extensive Universal Health Insurance, smoke the most.
You cannot smoke inside public buildings, restaurants etc. But, outside is loosely defined and the cafes' are outside.
As we pay "l'addition" (finely a word I can say), the clouds and wind intensify. It will rain. But, I have my new Parisian umbrella. It is a fold out and cost about 5 euros. It performs up to your expectation of a $6.00 umbrella. It does work which a source of pride and an advantage over my previous Parisian umbrella.
We show Caroline our first hotel in Paris. Betty remembers the little shops around the corner. We shopped a little last time, but we still had 7 weeks to go. We travel light with one European sized carryon and medium backpack. We simply did not have the space.
For this journey, we reduced even more our clothing and shoes. We have room.
Caroline and Betty go into a small household store. I remain outside in the rain testing my Parisian umbrella. It pours. Kids are getting out of school. They run. They are wet. The boys are brave. The girls are cute. They flirt. They are teenagers. No one is jealous of my umbrella.
The rain storm passes and I wonder to the book store across the street. This owner and the map store had been covered their outside stack of books during the rain storm. Most were taken in. I look at the paperbacks left outside. Betty loves Agatha Christie's Poirot. She purchased an Italian version paperback in Rome.
Surprisingly, I find two used paperbacks in good condition. They are in French. Why I mention that I do not know. I like the idea. It is a unique souvenir of the countries you visit and it makes you search in other than souvenir stores. Betty is a smart lady.
I am very proud when I display to Betty and Caroline who are still in the store. Caroline asks if they have "Pride and Prejudices". I return. I ask the owner. He advises me that his store is geography books only. He had bought a lot of books from another store. The mystery books outside happened to have been included in the purchase. Now that is serendipity.
Betty has purchased some items for the house. The owner advises that her store is on the internet and ships quickly.
The sun is out and we stop for coffee at the little cafe' that started our adventure in 2014. It is about 16:00 and we have plans to finish the day walking down the Champs-Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe. John and Angela plan to end their day their also.
We exit the Metro a stop or two early. The weather is changing again. It is windy. I am corrected when I start in the wrong direction. Hell, it is not easy to miss something that big.
Lots of stores and lots of people. We walk by the Marriott. We stop at a café that has protected tables by the large open windows. We can see and can hear the sounds. We order drinks. We are warm and out of the breeze.
Suddenly, there is "Hi". It is Angela and John. What are the odds? I am not sure how they saw us. They are walking back after touring the Arc de Triomphe including walking to the top.
We move tables together and have drinks. We ask questions and review our day. We finish. John and Angela begin walking. Caroline, Betty and I start walking to Arc. It is almost rush hour in Paris. Traffic is heavy. We stand on the corner and take photos for our memories. There are sites to visit and sites to see. The arc de Triomphe is a site to see.
We take the Metro back to the apartment and John and Angela are there already. They walked all the way. I screwed up and got off too early so we walked in the rain.
Dinner is a 20:00 at Chez de Fernand. If we ever return - if any of us ever return - to Paris, please let Chez de Fernand be there. Again, the food is great. The service exceptionally, We are regulars. We laugh a great deal. We have two bottles of St Emilion which is exactly the right wine. I have the chicken with truffles. It is excellent.
What a memory. You wish more friends and family were with you. It is that good.
Tomorrow, we leave for London.
It is our last full day in Paris. The fifth floor is no longer a challenge. The stairs have won. The apartment and the bathroom has gotten smaller. The kitchen and refrigerator are no longer cute. There are clothes everywhere.
We are in Paris. It cannot get any better.
We have different agendas. John and Angela are still up for more sightseeing. They are heading to the Hotel de Invalides and the War Museum. We had run out of time on Tuesday.
Betty, Caroline and I are heading to the Montparnasse neighborhood of Paris. We stayed there on our last visit. We have fond memories. We want to take Caroline.
The area is very close to our apartment. It is a walk through Luxemburg. We take the Metro. Because of destinations and access to the RER, we have not used the Metro often. Also, I think I want to prove that we still remember how to do it. For two weeks, the kids have lead. We want to be on our own.
The London Underground (Tube) is color coded. For example, the Circle is yellow. In Paris, the Metro is numerical and color coded. But, stay with the number.
Today, it is Number 4 line. As with London, you determine direction of the train by its final station. Four stops and we exit at Varin station. The weather is becoming cloudy. We are looking for the cafe' that Betty and I ate at before the train to Milan. We choose Le Select. It is my homage to Hemingway. Once more time. Why not. It would be a shame to say later "why".
The food is good. Not great, but good. There are not a lot of people. Several younger ladies at a table near by. The tourists have not yet arrived.
The French smoke a lot. In the morning, cigarette butts are in the street. Yes, the sidewalks are water down every morning. The young and old smoke. Camel Golds and "roll your own" seem common. You do see some electronic. I am sure it is coincidence, but France and Italy, two countries with extensive Universal Health Insurance, smoke the most.
You cannot smoke inside public buildings, restaurants etc. But, outside is loosely defined and the cafes' are outside.
As we pay "l'addition" (finely a word I can say), the clouds and wind intensify. It will rain. But, I have my new Parisian umbrella. It is a fold out and cost about 5 euros. It performs up to your expectation of a $6.00 umbrella. It does work which a source of pride and an advantage over my previous Parisian umbrella.
We show Caroline our first hotel in Paris. Betty remembers the little shops around the corner. We shopped a little last time, but we still had 7 weeks to go. We travel light with one European sized carryon and medium backpack. We simply did not have the space.
For this journey, we reduced even more our clothing and shoes. We have room.
Caroline and Betty go into a small household store. I remain outside in the rain testing my Parisian umbrella. It pours. Kids are getting out of school. They run. They are wet. The boys are brave. The girls are cute. They flirt. They are teenagers. No one is jealous of my umbrella.
The rain storm passes and I wonder to the book store across the street. This owner and the map store had been covered their outside stack of books during the rain storm. Most were taken in. I look at the paperbacks left outside. Betty loves Agatha Christie's Poirot. She purchased an Italian version paperback in Rome.
Surprisingly, I find two used paperbacks in good condition. They are in French. Why I mention that I do not know. I like the idea. It is a unique souvenir of the countries you visit and it makes you search in other than souvenir stores. Betty is a smart lady.
I am very proud when I display to Betty and Caroline who are still in the store. Caroline asks if they have "Pride and Prejudices". I return. I ask the owner. He advises me that his store is geography books only. He had bought a lot of books from another store. The mystery books outside happened to have been included in the purchase. Now that is serendipity.
Betty has purchased some items for the house. The owner advises that her store is on the internet and ships quickly.
The sun is out and we stop for coffee at the little cafe' that started our adventure in 2014. It is about 16:00 and we have plans to finish the day walking down the Champs-Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe. John and Angela plan to end their day their also.
We exit the Metro a stop or two early. The weather is changing again. It is windy. I am corrected when I start in the wrong direction. Hell, it is not easy to miss something that big.
Lots of stores and lots of people. We walk by the Marriott. We stop at a café that has protected tables by the large open windows. We can see and can hear the sounds. We order drinks. We are warm and out of the breeze. Suddenly, there is "Hi". It is Angela and John. What are the odds? I am not sure how they saw us. They are walking back after touring the Arc de Triomphe including walking to the top.
We move tables together and have drinks. We ask questions and review our day. We finish. John and Angela begin walking. Caroline, Betty and I start walking to Arc. It is almost rush hour in Paris. Traffic is heavy. We stand on the corner and take photos for our memories. There are sites to visit and sites to see. The arc de Triomphe is a site to see.
We take the Metro back to the apartment and John and Angela are there already. They walked all the way. I screwed up and got off too early so we walked in the rain.
Dinner is a 20:00 at Chez de Fernand. If we ever return - if any of us ever return - to Paris, please let Chez de Fernand be there. Again, the food is great. The service exceptionally, We are regulars. We laugh a great deal. We have two bottles of St Emilion which is exactly the right wine. I have the chicken with truffles. It is excellent.
What a memory. You wish more friends and family were with you. It is that good.
Tomorrow, we leave for London.
Monday, May 2, 2016
"If you are lucky enough ...then wherever you go for the rest of you life, it stay with you"
We cross the Pont Neuf one more time.
It is a beautiful masonry bridge with a statute of a General in the middle. The Seine is a working river, but not to the extent of the Thames. It is swift and contained on both sides by masonry and brick. You can walk the lower level for a distance on both sides. This afternoon it is sunny and people are having lunch or just talking.
It is the oldest standing bridge in Paris completed in 1607. There is an older bridge, but it has
been rebuilt several times.
It is our fifth full day in Paris and we walking to the Louvre. Everyone has seen the Louvre, at least, once. That is the strength of the attraction of the Louvre. You have a week or a day. You go to the Louvre.
In the morning, we began with Sainte-Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite'. The Island is the heart of Paris. It was the palace and government of the Capetian kings of France. As with England, we often forget that the crown of the king rest uneasy on his head. France, as with most monarchies, had many families (often at the same time) claiming the kingdom.
This particular chapel is still being restored (damaged
from pollution (candles among other) and the French Revolution). Louis IX built this "Holy Chapel" to house his extensive collection of baseball cards. Just kidding. I wanted to see if you were paying attention.
Well, only partially kidding. In medieval times (1000-1300) , the king ruled with the approval of God, or his manifestation on earth, the Pope. One way to show your right to call God your personal friend was to have the largest collection of relics. A piece of old wood becomes a part of the Cross of Jesus once approved by the Pope. The masses are in awe. You rule another year.
I gather that Louis could not pass up a good relic salesman.
The chapel is an excellent example of Gothic architecture and stained glass. It is a long hall with the center altar at the end. There are smaller altars on each side. Where the Romans used concrete and brick, the Gothic builders used glass to reduce the weight to allow them to build higher.
The Chapel windows are speculator. There is a price. Chapel is the only church which charges admission. But, then again, I believe that it is no longer a consecrated church - just antiquity.
The Chapel is part of the Palais de la Cite' which includes the Conciergerie. During the Revolution, this building served as the prison of many including Marie Antoinette. You can view her cell. It is three small rooms. The juxtaposition to yesterday's journey to Versailles is appropriate.
It is worth the viewing.
We walk the right bank to the Louvre. It is about lunch time and I am grumpy and hungry. We quickly enter the Pyramid and down the escalator to the open gallery which is the introduction to the three museums that make up the Louvre - the Richeleau, the Sully and the Denon.
Everyone goes to the Denon - Italian Paintings and the Mona Lisa.
We go to lunch. Betty and I remember the Museum restaurant from our last visit and we induce the kids to join us. I think they would have preferred a baguette. But, I want to sit and have a long beer.
We split up. The kids are on their own. They need the time. Betty and I move to the Denon. We were to Paris before Italy. Now, we have a better idea of Italian art and its history. I am curious to see the Mona Lisa again. The first time is not enough. There is simply too much anticipation.
The crowd is large so a quick glance. We move on and discover more. Betty is correct the best way is to sit in front of a group of paintings and look. You do not have to like every painting - but you need to decide for yourself.
This time I really began to understand the brush work. I am also again struck by how radical the revolution of perspective and anatomy was. Over a thirty year period, art became humanistic and real. Well, except maybe for Michelangelo whose women look really, really strong.
You can skip the African and American exhibit. We got lost. It is well intended.
It is quickly closing time. Betty and I are lost. My fault. We pass Winged Victory twice and not on purpose. Betty finally gets on the elevator and one of the employees explains how to exit to the main gallery.
I decide to take more run through the Denon. I turn and the Mona Lisa gallery is almost empty. The best time to view the Mona Lisa is 2 minutes before closing. In that short time, I fall in love with the Mona Lisa. I do not understand. I have no great insight. It is historical. De Vinci uses all the tricks of the eye to present a young woman that smiles at you and you remember the smile. Everyone for 400 years until the Impressionist followed and did not do it better.
I met a husband and wife in the elevator. They are walking gingerly and slowly. They are about my age. They will be in Paris for 10 days. They offer their insight as if pleading to be corrected "
lots of walking". I simply answer "Yep". And, point them to the escalator to the exit.
We met at the bookstore. I get lost and the kids have to find me. I am seating where I thought they would be sure to look. I am wrong. They are already outside in the Tuleries de Louvre.
The decision has been made to try to find Angelina's on the Rue de Rivoli. Yelp helps. We walk a few blocks. Angelina's is a must stop. It is old school. Polite service. White cloth. It is very full. There may be food on the menu but we only saw cakes and pastries. Betty orders tea.
Caroline orders hot chocolate. I order Champagne. It is that type of place.
We had to separate. There were no table for five. The waitress advises that Angelina's close at 18:00. We have about 40 minutes. We do not order Angelina's famous pastry is it's Mont Blanc. It is a small mound of layers of marron (chestnut) glace'. It is rich and smooth. One a lifetime, but what a lifetime. A pastry you share. We shared one at Versailles yesterday. Betty does rejects our suggestion to order one so we can taste again.
Caroline and I are lovers of thick hot chocolate. Stand up spoon hot chocolate. Starbucks had years ago a great hot chocolate drink - served in a small cup. It was singular great.
Angelina's is fantastic people watching. When you visit Paris, please go and let me know what you think.
As we leave Angelina it begins to rain. The right side of Rue de Rivoli is covered. The upper floors of the buildings extend to the street. It creates an arched stone canopy the length of the block. You do have to brave the rain as you cross streets and plazas. There are stores for everything, but they tend to be food.
My experience is that the French and Italians love food and seem never to eat at home. In London, you have to look for a place to eat. Paris is like Chicago in the old days. There was a local bar at the beginning of the block, at the middle and the end. Only to start all over again on the next block.
Paris is my kind of place.
We walk in the rain. Of course, since it was sunny this morning I did not bring an umbrella. The rain is heavy at times, but not often. We are wet and tired as we walk to the apartment.
The apartments in France and Europe are unique to an American. First entry to European Apartment buildings is into a courtyard. That entry is guarded by tall, extremely heavy and reinforced doors. There is a code. Enter the code and the gates of heaven or hell open - honest, they could be. They are mechanical. There is a click. The doors swing open. The doors give you about 20 seconds to clear the opening before beginning to close.
It is all very reassuring that the doors could withstand a ramming by a large vehicle. Why, I do not know. But, the doors are the standard and all the residences seem content.
The major crime throughout Europe/England is "pickpockets". I have heard stories from friends and other travelers about the skill level and ubiquitous of this criminal. They are there. You should take the warnings very seriously. But, come on. My recommendations are to keep it simple and enjoy.
Remember "pickpocketing" is a crime of opportunity. It is not personal. Pickpockets look for the easiest and quickest target. They go for volume and the odds are in their favor. Be aware of where you are. Don't flash cash. Don't carry your passport with your wallet - no matter how cool that leather passport case you bought for the trip looks.
In my case, my mom always told me to keep my hands out of my pockets. She was wrong. Hands in the pockets is great way to hold onto your wallet and phone. looks Since I have practiced all my life, no one suspects my cleverness. Of course, there is the other side. The mother saying to her child - if I ever see you with your hands in your pockets like that old man - no dinner for you.
Tomorrow - our last full day in Paris.
It is a beautiful masonry bridge with a statute of a General in the middle. The Seine is a working river, but not to the extent of the Thames. It is swift and contained on both sides by masonry and brick. You can walk the lower level for a distance on both sides. This afternoon it is sunny and people are having lunch or just talking.It is the oldest standing bridge in Paris completed in 1607. There is an older bridge, but it has
been rebuilt several times.It is our fifth full day in Paris and we walking to the Louvre. Everyone has seen the Louvre, at least, once. That is the strength of the attraction of the Louvre. You have a week or a day. You go to the Louvre.
In the morning, we began with Sainte-Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite'. The Island is the heart of Paris. It was the palace and government of the Capetian kings of France. As with England, we often forget that the crown of the king rest uneasy on his head. France, as with most monarchies, had many families (often at the same time) claiming the kingdom.
This particular chapel is still being restored (damaged
from pollution (candles among other) and the French Revolution). Louis IX built this "Holy Chapel" to house his extensive collection of baseball cards. Just kidding. I wanted to see if you were paying attention.
Well, only partially kidding. In medieval times (1000-1300) , the king ruled with the approval of God, or his manifestation on earth, the Pope. One way to show your right to call God your personal friend was to have the largest collection of relics. A piece of old wood becomes a part of the Cross of Jesus once approved by the Pope. The masses are in awe. You rule another year.I gather that Louis could not pass up a good relic salesman.
The chapel is an excellent example of Gothic architecture and stained glass. It is a long hall with the center altar at the end. There are smaller altars on each side. Where the Romans used concrete and brick, the Gothic builders used glass to reduce the weight to allow them to build higher.
The Chapel windows are speculator. There is a price. Chapel is the only church which charges admission. But, then again, I believe that it is no longer a consecrated church - just antiquity.
The Chapel is part of the Palais de la Cite' which includes the Conciergerie. During the Revolution, this building served as the prison of many including Marie Antoinette. You can view her cell. It is three small rooms. The juxtaposition to yesterday's journey to Versailles is appropriate.
It is worth the viewing.
We walk the right bank to the Louvre. It is about lunch time and I am grumpy and hungry. We quickly enter the Pyramid and down the escalator to the open gallery which is the introduction to the three museums that make up the Louvre - the Richeleau, the Sully and the Denon.Everyone goes to the Denon - Italian Paintings and the Mona Lisa.
We go to lunch. Betty and I remember the Museum restaurant from our last visit and we induce the kids to join us. I think they would have preferred a baguette. But, I want to sit and have a long beer.
We split up. The kids are on their own. They need the time. Betty and I move to the Denon. We were to Paris before Italy. Now, we have a better idea of Italian art and its history. I am curious to see the Mona Lisa again. The first time is not enough. There is simply too much anticipation.
The crowd is large so a quick glance. We move on and discover more. Betty is correct the best way is to sit in front of a group of paintings and look. You do not have to like every painting - but you need to decide for yourself.
This time I really began to understand the brush work. I am also again struck by how radical the revolution of perspective and anatomy was. Over a thirty year period, art became humanistic and real. Well, except maybe for Michelangelo whose women look really, really strong.
You can skip the African and American exhibit. We got lost. It is well intended.
It is quickly closing time. Betty and I are lost. My fault. We pass Winged Victory twice and not on purpose. Betty finally gets on the elevator and one of the employees explains how to exit to the main gallery.I decide to take more run through the Denon. I turn and the Mona Lisa gallery is almost empty. The best time to view the Mona Lisa is 2 minutes before closing. In that short time, I fall in love with the Mona Lisa. I do not understand. I have no great insight. It is historical. De Vinci uses all the tricks of the eye to present a young woman that smiles at you and you remember the smile. Everyone for 400 years until the Impressionist followed and did not do it better.
I met a husband and wife in the elevator. They are walking gingerly and slowly. They are about my age. They will be in Paris for 10 days. They offer their insight as if pleading to be corrected "
lots of walking". I simply answer "Yep". And, point them to the escalator to the exit.
We met at the bookstore. I get lost and the kids have to find me. I am seating where I thought they would be sure to look. I am wrong. They are already outside in the Tuleries de Louvre.
The decision has been made to try to find Angelina's on the Rue de Rivoli. Yelp helps. We walk a few blocks. Angelina's is a must stop. It is old school. Polite service. White cloth. It is very full. There may be food on the menu but we only saw cakes and pastries. Betty orders tea.
Caroline orders hot chocolate. I order Champagne. It is that type of place.
We had to separate. There were no table for five. The waitress advises that Angelina's close at 18:00. We have about 40 minutes. We do not order Angelina's famous pastry is it's Mont Blanc. It is a small mound of layers of marron (chestnut) glace'. It is rich and smooth. One a lifetime, but what a lifetime. A pastry you share. We shared one at Versailles yesterday. Betty does rejects our suggestion to order one so we can taste again.
Caroline and I are lovers of thick hot chocolate. Stand up spoon hot chocolate. Starbucks had years ago a great hot chocolate drink - served in a small cup. It was singular great.
Angelina's is fantastic people watching. When you visit Paris, please go and let me know what you think.
As we leave Angelina it begins to rain. The right side of Rue de Rivoli is covered. The upper floors of the buildings extend to the street. It creates an arched stone canopy the length of the block. You do have to brave the rain as you cross streets and plazas. There are stores for everything, but they tend to be food.
My experience is that the French and Italians love food and seem never to eat at home. In London, you have to look for a place to eat. Paris is like Chicago in the old days. There was a local bar at the beginning of the block, at the middle and the end. Only to start all over again on the next block.
Paris is my kind of place.
We walk in the rain. Of course, since it was sunny this morning I did not bring an umbrella. The rain is heavy at times, but not often. We are wet and tired as we walk to the apartment.
The apartments in France and Europe are unique to an American. First entry to European Apartment buildings is into a courtyard. That entry is guarded by tall, extremely heavy and reinforced doors. There is a code. Enter the code and the gates of heaven or hell open - honest, they could be. They are mechanical. There is a click. The doors swing open. The doors give you about 20 seconds to clear the opening before beginning to close.
It is all very reassuring that the doors could withstand a ramming by a large vehicle. Why, I do not know. But, the doors are the standard and all the residences seem content.
The major crime throughout Europe/England is "pickpockets". I have heard stories from friends and other travelers about the skill level and ubiquitous of this criminal. They are there. You should take the warnings very seriously. But, come on. My recommendations are to keep it simple and enjoy.
Remember "pickpocketing" is a crime of opportunity. It is not personal. Pickpockets look for the easiest and quickest target. They go for volume and the odds are in their favor. Be aware of where you are. Don't flash cash. Don't carry your passport with your wallet - no matter how cool that leather passport case you bought for the trip looks.
In my case, my mom always told me to keep my hands out of my pockets. She was wrong. Hands in the pockets is great way to hold onto your wallet and phone. looks Since I have practiced all my life, no one suspects my cleverness. Of course, there is the other side. The mother saying to her child - if I ever see you with your hands in your pockets like that old man - no dinner for you.
Tomorrow - our last full day in Paris.
Sunday, May 1, 2016
"Paris, Je t'aime"
It is Thursday in Paris. I am at Starbucks. I fought it but Paris does not yet have the concept of takeaway coffee for five and the coffee percolator does not produce drinkable coffee.
Also, we are on Verizon's International plan (there are many) which limits cellular usage to 100 MB for a month. That works fine, but you need to be judicious in your use. That judicious use involves turning off cellular capabilities to limit accidental usage. So, you look for WIFI whenever possible. As the tour books say, WIFI is readily available almost everywhere in Europe. Just be careful as you would be in the States about private information shared on open WIFI.
Starbuck has free WIFI, good coffee, great assortment of muffins, donuts and mocha (if you like mocha drinks, cafes are not your thing) and takeaway. Caroline likes Mocha.
As in Rome with McDonald's, Parisians are there. Although I see more American tourists wonder in. It took a visit to become familiar with the process. The order guy likes exact change or as close as possible. Just order off the menu board.
"Bonjour"
"Bonjour"
"Grande filtered coffee (English term for drip)"
"Yes, dark or light"
"Huh, oh, dark Okay"
"Anything else".
"Yes, Oui. A donut chocolate" (like Italy, donuts are cake with a hole in the middle encased in frosting - very good and they look like donuts)
"For here"
"'No, 'to go'. I mean 'takeaway' "
We quickly are friends. We learn to point and repeat.
So it is interesting to watch other Americans. You can tell that they apprehensive about the language but they want that American coffee (American style coffee is unique and not popular anywhere else - closest is the English "filtered coffee" but they only have skim "skinny" milk). This may be the first interaction outside the cocoon of the hotel and the guide tour. This is a real day to day interaction.
In general, they do not offer a greeting. The French really do care about that formality. But, they are not rude about it. They are just not as friendly. If you think about it they are right.
Everyone is polite and efficient. But, I do wonder what the tourists think of their experience. Possibly, they go home with the impression that the French are not friendly, reluctantly speak English and make it difficult. Perhaps. I hope not.
Twice, we have been to Paris - the heart of the urban legend that the French are rude and unfriendly. We never had a poor experience. The French are quick to laugh. They are jovial and friendly. They are helpful and efficient. They enjoy you trying to speak their language. They will correct you and switch to English. They are proud of their history. They are proud of their city.
My answer as to why the difference in experience - "Bonjour". "Merci".
As I walk back to the apartment, I wonder why I like Paris so much. There are obvious answers. I grant you all of them. But, they do not answer my question.
Finally, I realize that my affection for Paris and Rome is that these cities embrace you. Paris leads you to believe that it is your city. I am not alone. I think of Hemingway and others. Paris and Rome seduce you into the feeling that she is yours. You discovered her. Reality is that they are huge impersonal cities, but there is an intimacy. You walk in the morning or night and they are yours.
When you see the Seine from Pont Neuf on a late afternoon. That memory is yours for the rest of your life. You remember your first visit to Luxembourg Gardens. Or the little café on the corner. It is yours. You go back. It does not disappoint. It is different. But, it is yours.
I mentioned earlier our visit to Shakespeare & Co and the little park to the left of the store. It was different. Some of which, I did not like - like the favorite aunt who shows up at Thanksgiving with a new boyfriend. But, she is still your favorite aunt. She is different, but you understand why.
And, I did all this before 9:00 on a Thursday morning.
Also, we are on Verizon's International plan (there are many) which limits cellular usage to 100 MB for a month. That works fine, but you need to be judicious in your use. That judicious use involves turning off cellular capabilities to limit accidental usage. So, you look for WIFI whenever possible. As the tour books say, WIFI is readily available almost everywhere in Europe. Just be careful as you would be in the States about private information shared on open WIFI.
Starbuck has free WIFI, good coffee, great assortment of muffins, donuts and mocha (if you like mocha drinks, cafes are not your thing) and takeaway. Caroline likes Mocha.
As in Rome with McDonald's, Parisians are there. Although I see more American tourists wonder in. It took a visit to become familiar with the process. The order guy likes exact change or as close as possible. Just order off the menu board.
"Bonjour"
"Bonjour"
"Grande filtered coffee (English term for drip)"
"Yes, dark or light"
"Huh, oh, dark Okay"
"Anything else".
"Yes, Oui. A donut chocolate" (like Italy, donuts are cake with a hole in the middle encased in frosting - very good and they look like donuts)
"For here"
"'No, 'to go'. I mean 'takeaway' "
We quickly are friends. We learn to point and repeat.
So it is interesting to watch other Americans. You can tell that they apprehensive about the language but they want that American coffee (American style coffee is unique and not popular anywhere else - closest is the English "filtered coffee" but they only have skim "skinny" milk). This may be the first interaction outside the cocoon of the hotel and the guide tour. This is a real day to day interaction.
In general, they do not offer a greeting. The French really do care about that formality. But, they are not rude about it. They are just not as friendly. If you think about it they are right.
Everyone is polite and efficient. But, I do wonder what the tourists think of their experience. Possibly, they go home with the impression that the French are not friendly, reluctantly speak English and make it difficult. Perhaps. I hope not.
Twice, we have been to Paris - the heart of the urban legend that the French are rude and unfriendly. We never had a poor experience. The French are quick to laugh. They are jovial and friendly. They are helpful and efficient. They enjoy you trying to speak their language. They will correct you and switch to English. They are proud of their history. They are proud of their city.
My answer as to why the difference in experience - "Bonjour". "Merci".
As I walk back to the apartment, I wonder why I like Paris so much. There are obvious answers. I grant you all of them. But, they do not answer my question.
Finally, I realize that my affection for Paris and Rome is that these cities embrace you. Paris leads you to believe that it is your city. I am not alone. I think of Hemingway and others. Paris and Rome seduce you into the feeling that she is yours. You discovered her. Reality is that they are huge impersonal cities, but there is an intimacy. You walk in the morning or night and they are yours.
When you see the Seine from Pont Neuf on a late afternoon. That memory is yours for the rest of your life. You remember your first visit to Luxembourg Gardens. Or the little café on the corner. It is yours. You go back. It does not disappoint. It is different. But, it is yours.
I mentioned earlier our visit to Shakespeare & Co and the little park to the left of the store. It was different. Some of which, I did not like - like the favorite aunt who shows up at Thanksgiving with a new boyfriend. But, she is still your favorite aunt. She is different, but you understand why.
And, I did all this before 9:00 on a Thursday morning.
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