It is Friday.
We have left the terrible weather in Highlands of Scotland. This is beginning of our last weekend in England.
A subplot to our journey is to seek places of our heritage. We visited Wexford County. We should have been more adventurous. But, we did get a feel for the land of my Irish ancestry.
We are now on our way to Southwold. This is our second attempt. Two years ago on our first visit to England (London), Betty and I thought that a quick ride to a focal point of her family history was a goal. When we looked at the trip which involves trains and bus and decided not to try. It would have been a long, long day for a very short stay. Moreover, we were not sure what we would find.
On this trip, we are committed. We have done more research. We have planned a weekend. We still are not certain what to expect.
Betty's sister visited several years ago. Maybe I did not listen well, but all I remember is that it was an afternoon drive from London and a quick visit to the church where the ancestor was the rector.
We taxi to the train station. I am more confident in our use of the British train system. But, still have a lot to learn.
The ticket person is talkative. It is mid-morning, The pace is slower. My education is that we were eligible for senior discount. I tried online several months ago and found that I needed a UK address. The Cambridge ticket master advises that what I could have done is apply at any station in the UK and no local address required.
I have learnt a lot - most tickets are all day, that there multiple types of trains and to ask questions about how and which tickets to buy- everyone does it.
We pay for our round trip tickets to Halesworth. From Halesworth, we will take a bus to Southwold. This involves changing trains in Ipswich. There is a schedule.
We get something to eat and drink at the station. We keep our eyes on the overhead display to check the track we will depart from. The train is similar to last night, but no longer crowded. We find seats for the thirty minutes ride.
This English countryside is not the long rolling green hills with quaint villages. The scenery is more compact. The farms are smaller. The houses are not grand. It is pleasant. My opinion based upon the last night, residents commute to London.
Ipswich is an older industrial town on the southeastern coast of England. I note that we seldom see freight trains. In the United States, it is common for passenger trains to wait for freight trains to pass. In Europe and UK, I have yet to see a freight train. My guess is that freight moves at night. With shorter distances, the trains do not have to be as long. Also, because of the number of waterways, freight moves by water.
We find the train to Halesworth. We have no idea what to expect. It is a commuter type of train. It is about a 35 minute ride to Halesworth.
Halesworth is a small town - second station from the end of the line. Halesworth has a very interesting history. The station is unmanned for large portions of the day, We exit the train . It takes a few minutes to realize we need to cross over the tracks to the bus stop.
We meet a couple who have retired to Southwold. They are on their way home from a short stay in London. Betty strikes up a conversation. They are very informative. I am relieved since we now have someone to follow to Southwold.
With a few stops through the country, we cross a bridge, say goodbye to the couple and step off the bus at Southwold. I am impressed. It is larger than expected. It is a village in transition. Twenty years ago, Southwold was a village that did not see tourists. Southwold was village in Suffolk County on the North Sea with stately homes and an interesting history.
Now, due to circumstances - new London money looking for weekend retreats and Addams Brewery - Southwold is a destination.
We check our apps. Because of Caroline, we discovered an app called "Pockets map" which gives you step by step directions and maps without using a lot data. The "Crown" is just up High Street. We are within hundred feet. We cross the street. There are not a lot of hotel options in Southwold - the "Crown" and the "Swan". It is my impression is that Addams Brewery owns both.
The "Crown" facade implies that it was built in the late 1700s. There are 14 rooms, pub and restaurant . Betty made the reservations. We were surprised at the high rate - but there a few weeks left in the season with the weather holding. It is the weekend.
The registration room is up a narrow flight of stairs. We check in with a pleasant lady and given keys to the room.
The room is large and remodeled. The bathroom is modern. There are two Addams "Ghost Ship" Ales and a large bag of crisps. I am in awe. Not water. Not candy. Ale and crisps. I am the happiest of men.
I immediately open the Ales and crisps. I turn on the television. We always check the television for what programming is available.
A quick rest, we leave to visit St Edmonds Church. It is mid afternoon about 3:30 PM.
St Edmonds is an historical site. We are here that Betty's ancestor was the vicar at St Edmonds and is buried by the pulpit in the church.
The church was built between 1430s to 1490s. The church reflects the wealth and power of Southwold during this period. Historically and architecturally , the church is important. However, what stands out to me are occurrences. First, the windows - the most curious is that everyone broke a window.
William Dowsing, Cromwell henchman and overall bad guy, destroyed all of the medieval stain glass and baptismal (took the heads off). Then, a German bomb during WWII destroyed the replacement glass.
As an aside, Southwold was bombed in WWI and WWII. I was not aware that the German's in WWI used Zeppelins to bomb civilian populations along the coast. During WWII, Germans- early in the biltz bombed civilian populations through out the UK (interestingly, including Scotland and Dublin). You tend to think of the devastation of London (which is much more extensive that you can imagine when looking at London today).
We spend a really delightful late afternoon forty-five minutes in the Cemetery surrounding to the church. We meet briefly the present Vicar as we reenter the church to locate Christopher Youngs burial and Plaque. Also to view, several of the historical highlights of the church. - "Southwold Jack" a clock jack and the highly regarded "rood screen". You begin to understand that Southwold's history is long and interesting. To build a church such as this, Southwold was wealthy.
Having visited the cemetery of Wexford, now, viewing the this cemetery I can understand the idle interest cemeteries create. Little messages on grave stones, short lives buried next to mothers, long lives, soldiers, generations next to each - give you just enough to wonder about their lives. There are newer graves and gravestone that are so weathered that you cannot decipher.
It is about 5:30, we walk back to the hotel. There is museum. It is closed until tomorrow. Limited hours 1 PM to 3PM.
We stop for something to eat at the Cornish Bakery. It is almost closing time so the menu at the counter is limited. We are hungry and pasty are very filling.
I still have chips and ale at the hotel. It has been a long day.
Tomorrow. Enjoy Southwold. I am glad we are here.
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