The above quote is not accurate. For centuries, Glasgow was the economic center of Scotland and, for that matter, the United Kingdom.
We were told Glasgow was the "murder capital of Europe". Gangs roamed the streets. Criminals and gangs rule.
Glasgow has suffered. With the decline of manufacturing in the UK in 70's and 80's, Glasgow did see a substantial decline in population. There was urban flight to the suburbs. The city of Glasgow reached a peak in 1938 with a population of 1,127,825.
Today, Glasgow is a city of 615,070 with 1,209,143 people living in the Greater Glasgow urban area and 1,800,000 in metropolitan area. That is approximately 33% of Scotland's population.
Glasgow is a port city with access to world markets by the Firth of Clyde.
The city's East End remains a problem area with high unemployment.
The City Center of Glasgow is very vibrant and cosmopolitan urban area, There is construction every where. The train station. the Streets. The buildings. The Glasgow School of Art which has burnt twice - once in 2014 and gain in 2018.
The city is very pedestrian friendly. The City Center is an easy walk. Except of the hills. Oh, I forgot to mention the hills. Scotland is a land of hills - steep hills.
I start the day before dawn. It is dark as I walk to try to find a coffee shop. My first impression of the neighborhood. Yes, we are on a border. Two blocks behind the hotel is a major commuter artery with heavy traffic. There are high rise residential and office complex. The streets are empty. The street that appears to have shops and restaurants are fenced and torn up. We are about six blocks from the heavily damaged Glasgow School of Art. Major portion of the structure is being demolished which results in further street blockage and an extended (inaccurate) perception of decay.
I find a small family owned coffee shop. It is more of a sandwich shop for local office employees. The coffee is not great. The ambience is functional. There is a lack of morning biscuits.
I eat and drink quietly. No WIFI.
I do not dally. I leave disheartened.
It is still dark. I begin my long walk. Betty will not awake for awhile.
Why are we in Glasgow? Lots of good reasons actually. We are on our way to Oban. Our son and daughter in law honeymooned in Scotland and praised their journey and, especially, Oban.
We do not drive. We relay on trains and occasionally, buses. By traveling to Oban, we hope will give us a chance to see the outstanding scenery of Scotland's Highlands. By crossing from the east coast of Scotland and to the west coast, we will gain a fuller flavor of Scotland.
It is also a time to rest. we have been traveling for 18 days and four cities, three flights and lots of sightseeing. We have another 12 days with a long journey to Southwold, England.
As the sky lightens, I start up St Vincent Street. When I say "up" I mean up. I am concerned that although Betty's foot has improved greatly, but this hill is steep. I am walking back to the Central Station which is my "known point". Also When the cab took us to the hotel, I was impressed. I am going to find that a drinkable cup of coffee.
In the UK, there are several serviceable coffee chains for a morning roll and coffee. Starbucks, Nero and Costa are ubiquous. In London, there are lots of independents.
I pass offices and lots of "To Let" signs. There are small sandwich shops but nothing is open. We like to walk when possible. I am concerned that we may have to use cabs - the steep hills and distant to Glasgow sites.
The city is coming to life. More cars. I am saved. I find a Starbucks. I start to understand Glasgow better. It is a working city. It is a little like Dublin. Yes, they welcome tourists but the city's geography does not cater to tourists.
Glasgow has a great sense of humor. The equestrian statute of Wellington on Exchange Square is daily topped with a traffic cone. This commentary on the quinntessential hero of Britain is a statement that all is not well with the UK. The cone is removed every morning and replaced by "vandals" every night.
When I return to the hotel, Betty is up and getting ready. She asks where should we go. My answer is that I am not certain. The focus is to relax. The water is running in the room but still no heat. They have given us a small portable heater.
We leave the hotel and turn left. We walk to the Theater and turn right and walk up Bath Street.
Earlier I saw a restaurant called "The Butterfly and The Pig". The menu looked interesting and local. As opposed to the kids, I tend not to check YELP reviews. I trust my luck and feel.
It is somewhat early so we get a table without a reservation. I did burritos in Edinburgh. Betty and I had several very good meals so far in Scotland. But, nothing which would be considered "Scottish crusine.
There is haggis as an appetizer on the menu. I am not certain. But, I know I have to try. Fortunately, haggis has evolved. It no longer is stuffed sheep stomach. The menu is not specific as to ingredients.
I am guessing that "haggis" means by definition sheep liver, sheep heart and other undefined parts of sheep.
It was not bad. I would order again - but, only in Scotland.
I also order steak pie. Betty has often ordered pies. This is my first. It is very tasty - a large beef pot pie. Lunch is leisurely.
We walk down Bath Street to Buchanan Street. Buchanan Street is a closed pedestrian street, The open mall is about seven to eight blocks long with stores on both sides. The temperature is mild so the stroll and window shopping is pleasant.
And, there it is. Another family tradition to be continued. There is the Hard Rock Cafe of Glasgow. We go souvenir shopping. Not great.
We decide that we are tired and a drink sounds great. It is a narrow building with the restaurant up a staircase. Remember Glasgow is our rest stop. Slow down. Restore.
We find a booth and order cocktails. It is not crowd - too early. the bar area is small. We have a chance to talk with the server. He shares my admiration of Queen and Freddy Mercury. The Queen movie is a few months away,
We begin our walk back. We discover that you can walk around the steep hill, It is still a climb but not as tiring.
Still no heat, but the television works and the room is pleasant. It is a quick trip to Tesco Express. Dinner in the room.
Tomorrow - more walking.
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