It is early. We have an 8:40 Train to Oban. Actually, a train and bus ride ahead of us.
As explained before, I am a nervous traveler. I am better with experience. For example. I am now very comfortable with the Italian train system. The Underground is great. Paris is comfortable.
This is the first time to Oban. We will take the train and a bus.
Looking back, it appears that the bus ride is due to the Highland Rail System under repair. Oban does have a train station. But, then we would have missed a great adventure.
The day begins with the checkout. Best Western Hotels have an overall excellent reputation in Europe. What we discovered over five days in Glasgow and Oban is that the reputation is justified on the Continent and, horribly, untrue in the UK.
The young lady refuses to accept our twenty pound sterling note. She is adamant. She cannot accept the twenty pound Bank of Scotland note (which a story in itself - basically, a twenty pound note is a twenty pound note). She explains that the notes are being replaced and she can only accept new notes.
I try to point out that the notes are from the bank's ATM down the street yesterday. I explain that the change over is only for older five and ten notes.
After ten minutes and the cab arriving, she agrees to wavier the room charge in lieu of not accepting the twenty pound sterling.
I ask the cab driver as he helps us with luggage. Of course, he shrugs and says bluntly "of course, she does know what she is talking about".
We were without heat for our entire stay. We were without water for a day. We reserved a lower floor I expected an accommodation in the bill. I did get an ill-informed young woman who was more than willing to argue a $18.00 room service bill while the cab awaits.
The cab ride is quick. We pay and tip. We are early. The coffee kiosk is open. The gate for the train is announced. Tickets. We find seats. The train is a local and, therefore, semi-full. I am surprised. It is early Sunday morning.
We stow our luggage. The train pulls out on time.
The ride is pleasant as the clouds turn gray and thicken. There are two very young men across the aisle. I am guessing mid teens. They are on a hiking journey. The older boy seems to be experienced. He is very confident.
They are staying at a hostel and will hike the area during the day.
We had hope to see the great vistas of Scotland. The ragged bluffs. The green glens. The view from the coach is hindered by the foliage on both sides and the lack of sun light.
The stops come with less regularity. The foliage thickens. It begins to rain.
Our stop is the last station. By this time, the passengers have thinned. We are greeted as we exit the train by a very nice guide who walks to the parking lot. She is self assured. I am now almost assured.
We load our luggage and find seats. The rain is more than a drizzle.
A very nice tourist bus contracted by ScotRail due to the shutdown of the Highland Rail.
I have no idea how long the bus ride will be. It is a narrow road used by cars, buses and trucks including logging. We pass each other with little room for error. Often, the bus and the other vehicle have to use the road shoulder. It is the only road. We pass through villages and small stops along the way. Traffic is light. We climb. Now, the rain covers the windows. I am reminded of the song - McArthur Park - something about "melting".
It is getting hot in the bus. We have no idea if we are near or far from Oban.
A sign of the approach of a larger town is the increase in the number of homes. we also are on the descent.
With the rain and fogged windows, Oban appears not as quaint as we envisioned. Shops and homes.
Cars parked on the street. Where is our hotel? Where we will be dropped? And, the rain.
The bus drops us off at the Oban Rail Station. We collect luggage. We are on time and early for check in.
We are in the heart of Oban. Restaurants and hotels curve around the bay. There is a ferry docked. Betty has hopes that we can take a day trip to one of the islands off shore.
We head to the Costa Coffee Shop. It is lunch time. We need to make a phone call to the hotel to see about directions and early check in.
The shop is full. Lunch time and shelter from the weather. Coffee and sandwiches type place. We try to avoid listening to immediate conversations.
I walk outside and find the taxi station and return.
WiFi is jammed and we have trouble getting on. As an hour passes and fewer user, it improves slightly. We are always careful using public WIFI which limits our access.
Finally, it is close to permitted check-in. The rain is lighter, but the wind has picked up. Collecting our carry on luggage and backpacks, we cross over to the taxi station.
From our driver, we learn that our hotel is not known as a Best Western. It is the Muthu Queens Oban Hotel.
The Muthu Hospitality Group is avarice. The Group has aggressively brought up small local hotels and resorts in the UK and Europe. The focus is profitability. I would avoid any hotel owned by this Group.
In Oban, Muthu is ubiquitous. Hotels line the curve of the bay. In pleasant weather, the view of the bay, islands offshore and the cruise ships must be great. There is a sidewalk along the sea wall that borders the road. Now, we notice the wind and the temperature dropping.
The taxi pulls into a narrow parking area with room for 8 cars. There is no room to park on the street.
The desk person checks us in. Again, Betty has reserved a room on the first floor. Again, the room is on the top floor. Again, there is no elevator.
We are again told tough luck. "We are full due to an auction on Monday".
We find out later that Best Western brand has little or no control over their UK members. The hotels belong only to use the Best Western US reservation system.
The room is pleasant. We check. There is water and heat. But, there is no television.
It is 2:30 PM. The weather is unpleasant. The bar does not open til 5.
I call down. The desk person comes up and confirms the TV does not work. She advises that she will have maintenance look at it as soon as they return from one of the other Muthu hotels. They are there trying to restore heat to that hotel. Notice a trend!
We are about a half mile from Oban. We are tired and getting back into a cab is not attractive.
We wait. After an hour, I go down to check. Nothing. Rude. Indifferent.
About 4:30, maintenance arrives. It is a loose connection of the coaxial cable to the wall. He tightens. We have TV.
We are thinking about dinner. There is a dining room. I am upset and I do want to give this management anymore money than I have to.
I suggest Fish and Chips. I have looked at Trip Advisor and Yelp and there are a number of shops. I start out with the wind and soaking rain. I have a North Face 3/4 quarter length jacket which is waterproof.
I am walking against the wind and at the beginning, reasonably comfortable. What I forget is my shoes. My shoes quickly become soggy. I am alone on the sidewalk. Justly so.
I have forgotten it is Sunday. What will be open. I cannot use my phone - no signal and with the rain and darkness it would be impossible to read. I do see the Oban Distillery. I turn away from the beach road towards the Main Street. I find a Fish & Chips shop open.
The counter guy looks at me as I enter. he gives me the "are you crazy" look. When I ask for extra chips, he nods and smiles with indulgence.
I start back holding the large warm back close to my body. Obviously, I have not allowed for time, distance and a cold wind that now hits my face.
I make good time. Fortunately, the food is neither soggy nor cold. Well, it is not warm - but, it is fried fish and chips and they are firm.
It is a lot of food.
Tomorrow - sightseeing in Oban and the "Green Shack".
Wednesday, August 7, 2019
Tuesday, August 6, 2019
"Glasgow is less polite than Edinburgh ..... they keep in real"
The weather holds.
Still no heat. We understand that with the older buildings they often share boilers. We are told that the boiler is less than two years old. Apparently, the boiler is current, the pipes may have been new at the coronation of Victoria.
We discover that ownership of the Scottish hospitality industry is foreign and seems to be dominated by individuals from India. Decision making, therefore, lacks immediacy.
It is Saturday.
I wake early. I am now somewhat oriented. I turn left, past King's Theater to Sauchiehall Street. It is seven blocks of renovation. I walk to the train station. My goal is to become familiar with the train station. We leave early tomorrow morning for Glasgow. I want to print our tickets.
I have checked my phone and I have a message that I am about to end my International Phone & Data Usage Plan. From the early planning of the trip, our International Plan has been in turmoil.
I do reflect that from our first trip in 2014, smart phone usage has improved greatly. In 2014, Verizon did not offer any service. You were talking about "unlocking", replacement of simm card or purchasing an international phone.
I knew that I was closing in on my 100 MB monthly limit. But, the text message is confusing and the alternative offered does not make sense.
I return to Starbucks on Buchanan Street. Order coffee. Log on to their WiFi and call Verizon. I found that calling directly to International Customer Service is the most effective. Now, it is 9AM in Glasgow and late evening somewhere in USA. Hard to believe, I spend the next hour and ten minutes on the phone via WiFi. I do not loss the connection. It is Verizon's International 800 number. But, still remarkable.
Most importantly, we resolve the problem. Verizon renews my monthly International Plan and gives me a credit to offset. Very generous and very helpful.
It is only 10AM and there is walking to do. I walk to the end of Buchanan St. I turn left and walk up the street. I am sightseeing. Others are beginning a Saturday morning. I do get a feel for the architecture of Glasgow - at least, this area. It is Victorian and reflects the glory period of Glasgow.
I turn back towards the hotel. I do have a goal - I need shaving cream. When you want a drug store ...
Argyle Street is filling with shoppers. Centre Glasgow is very much alive and well.
I find a drugstore - a Superdrug. We are scheduled to fly to London Tuesday so I am looking for travel size.
My opinion of Glasgow continues to improve. It is a very vibrant city. It is friendly, but not outgoing.
It has been a long walk already. I cross back over St Vincent towards Bath. I zigzag looking for nothing special just enjoying. I find great little parks. I am also looking for a place to eat lunch later with Betty.
Almost back to the hotel, I pass the King's Theater where Sheik the Musical is playing. It is a Saturday Morning performance. Kids and parents everywhere.
It is lunch time. Still no heat. And, the weekend crew at front desk is no longer apologetic. We notice that there are a lot of Russians in the hospitality business.
Betty and I walk briefly looking on both sides of Sauchiehall Street for a place to have lunch. We decide on J. D.Wetherspoon. This is important since it is here that I invent the greatest condiment. It is a mixture of HP Sauce and Tartar Sauce. Great with chips. Hell goes with anything.
The remainder of the afternoon is a leisurely walk to Buchanan Street. It is Saturday and we shop. We want to buy - but, we live in the Southwest with summer temperatures over 100 so wool sweaters, hats and scarfs will sit in the closet.
We do a little shopping for dinner. We leave early Sunday morning. We are excited to get back on the road. The more adventurous part of our journey is upcoming.
Tomorrow is Oban.
Still no heat. We understand that with the older buildings they often share boilers. We are told that the boiler is less than two years old. Apparently, the boiler is current, the pipes may have been new at the coronation of Victoria.
We discover that ownership of the Scottish hospitality industry is foreign and seems to be dominated by individuals from India. Decision making, therefore, lacks immediacy.
It is Saturday.
I wake early. I am now somewhat oriented. I turn left, past King's Theater to Sauchiehall Street. It is seven blocks of renovation. I walk to the train station. My goal is to become familiar with the train station. We leave early tomorrow morning for Glasgow. I want to print our tickets.
I have checked my phone and I have a message that I am about to end my International Phone & Data Usage Plan. From the early planning of the trip, our International Plan has been in turmoil.
I do reflect that from our first trip in 2014, smart phone usage has improved greatly. In 2014, Verizon did not offer any service. You were talking about "unlocking", replacement of simm card or purchasing an international phone.
I knew that I was closing in on my 100 MB monthly limit. But, the text message is confusing and the alternative offered does not make sense.
I return to Starbucks on Buchanan Street. Order coffee. Log on to their WiFi and call Verizon. I found that calling directly to International Customer Service is the most effective. Now, it is 9AM in Glasgow and late evening somewhere in USA. Hard to believe, I spend the next hour and ten minutes on the phone via WiFi. I do not loss the connection. It is Verizon's International 800 number. But, still remarkable.
Most importantly, we resolve the problem. Verizon renews my monthly International Plan and gives me a credit to offset. Very generous and very helpful.
It is only 10AM and there is walking to do. I walk to the end of Buchanan St. I turn left and walk up the street. I am sightseeing. Others are beginning a Saturday morning. I do get a feel for the architecture of Glasgow - at least, this area. It is Victorian and reflects the glory period of Glasgow.
I turn back towards the hotel. I do have a goal - I need shaving cream. When you want a drug store ...
Argyle Street is filling with shoppers. Centre Glasgow is very much alive and well.
I find a drugstore - a Superdrug. We are scheduled to fly to London Tuesday so I am looking for travel size.
My opinion of Glasgow continues to improve. It is a very vibrant city. It is friendly, but not outgoing.
It has been a long walk already. I cross back over St Vincent towards Bath. I zigzag looking for nothing special just enjoying. I find great little parks. I am also looking for a place to eat lunch later with Betty.
Almost back to the hotel, I pass the King's Theater where Sheik the Musical is playing. It is a Saturday Morning performance. Kids and parents everywhere.
It is lunch time. Still no heat. And, the weekend crew at front desk is no longer apologetic. We notice that there are a lot of Russians in the hospitality business.
Betty and I walk briefly looking on both sides of Sauchiehall Street for a place to have lunch. We decide on J. D.Wetherspoon. This is important since it is here that I invent the greatest condiment. It is a mixture of HP Sauce and Tartar Sauce. Great with chips. Hell goes with anything.
The remainder of the afternoon is a leisurely walk to Buchanan Street. It is Saturday and we shop. We want to buy - but, we live in the Southwest with summer temperatures over 100 so wool sweaters, hats and scarfs will sit in the closet.
We do a little shopping for dinner. We leave early Sunday morning. We are excited to get back on the road. The more adventurous part of our journey is upcoming.
Tomorrow is Oban.
Friday, August 2, 2019
"The Great thing about Glasgow is that if there is a Nuclear attack, it'll look exactly the same afterwards"
The above quote is not accurate. For centuries, Glasgow was the economic center of Scotland and, for that matter, the United Kingdom.
We were told Glasgow was the "murder capital of Europe". Gangs roamed the streets. Criminals and gangs rule.
Glasgow has suffered. With the decline of manufacturing in the UK in 70's and 80's, Glasgow did see a substantial decline in population. There was urban flight to the suburbs. The city of Glasgow reached a peak in 1938 with a population of 1,127,825.
Today, Glasgow is a city of 615,070 with 1,209,143 people living in the Greater Glasgow urban area and 1,800,000 in metropolitan area. That is approximately 33% of Scotland's population.
Glasgow is a port city with access to world markets by the Firth of Clyde.
The city's East End remains a problem area with high unemployment.
The City Center of Glasgow is very vibrant and cosmopolitan urban area, There is construction every where. The train station. the Streets. The buildings. The Glasgow School of Art which has burnt twice - once in 2014 and gain in 2018.
The city is very pedestrian friendly. The City Center is an easy walk. Except of the hills. Oh, I forgot to mention the hills. Scotland is a land of hills - steep hills.
I start the day before dawn. It is dark as I walk to try to find a coffee shop. My first impression of the neighborhood. Yes, we are on a border. Two blocks behind the hotel is a major commuter artery with heavy traffic. There are high rise residential and office complex. The streets are empty. The street that appears to have shops and restaurants are fenced and torn up. We are about six blocks from the heavily damaged Glasgow School of Art. Major portion of the structure is being demolished which results in further street blockage and an extended (inaccurate) perception of decay.
I find a small family owned coffee shop. It is more of a sandwich shop for local office employees. The coffee is not great. The ambience is functional. There is a lack of morning biscuits.
I eat and drink quietly. No WIFI.
I do not dally. I leave disheartened.
It is still dark. I begin my long walk. Betty will not awake for awhile.
Why are we in Glasgow? Lots of good reasons actually. We are on our way to Oban. Our son and daughter in law honeymooned in Scotland and praised their journey and, especially, Oban.
We do not drive. We relay on trains and occasionally, buses. By traveling to Oban, we hope will give us a chance to see the outstanding scenery of Scotland's Highlands. By crossing from the east coast of Scotland and to the west coast, we will gain a fuller flavor of Scotland.
It is also a time to rest. we have been traveling for 18 days and four cities, three flights and lots of sightseeing. We have another 12 days with a long journey to Southwold, England.
As the sky lightens, I start up St Vincent Street. When I say "up" I mean up. I am concerned that although Betty's foot has improved greatly, but this hill is steep. I am walking back to the Central Station which is my "known point". Also When the cab took us to the hotel, I was impressed. I am going to find that a drinkable cup of coffee.
In the UK, there are several serviceable coffee chains for a morning roll and coffee. Starbucks, Nero and Costa are ubiquous. In London, there are lots of independents.
I pass offices and lots of "To Let" signs. There are small sandwich shops but nothing is open. We like to walk when possible. I am concerned that we may have to use cabs - the steep hills and distant to Glasgow sites.
The city is coming to life. More cars. I am saved. I find a Starbucks. I start to understand Glasgow better. It is a working city. It is a little like Dublin. Yes, they welcome tourists but the city's geography does not cater to tourists.
Glasgow has a great sense of humor. The equestrian statute of Wellington on Exchange Square is daily topped with a traffic cone. This commentary on the quinntessential hero of Britain is a statement that all is not well with the UK. The cone is removed every morning and replaced by "vandals" every night.
When I return to the hotel, Betty is up and getting ready. She asks where should we go. My answer is that I am not certain. The focus is to relax. The water is running in the room but still no heat. They have given us a small portable heater.
We leave the hotel and turn left. We walk to the Theater and turn right and walk up Bath Street.
Earlier I saw a restaurant called "The Butterfly and The Pig". The menu looked interesting and local. As opposed to the kids, I tend not to check YELP reviews. I trust my luck and feel.
It is somewhat early so we get a table without a reservation. I did burritos in Edinburgh. Betty and I had several very good meals so far in Scotland. But, nothing which would be considered "Scottish crusine.
There is haggis as an appetizer on the menu. I am not certain. But, I know I have to try. Fortunately, haggis has evolved. It no longer is stuffed sheep stomach. The menu is not specific as to ingredients.
I am guessing that "haggis" means by definition sheep liver, sheep heart and other undefined parts of sheep.
It was not bad. I would order again - but, only in Scotland.
I also order steak pie. Betty has often ordered pies. This is my first. It is very tasty - a large beef pot pie. Lunch is leisurely.
We walk down Bath Street to Buchanan Street. Buchanan Street is a closed pedestrian street, The open mall is about seven to eight blocks long with stores on both sides. The temperature is mild so the stroll and window shopping is pleasant.
And, there it is. Another family tradition to be continued. There is the Hard Rock Cafe of Glasgow. We go souvenir shopping. Not great.
We decide that we are tired and a drink sounds great. It is a narrow building with the restaurant up a staircase. Remember Glasgow is our rest stop. Slow down. Restore.
We find a booth and order cocktails. It is not crowd - too early. the bar area is small. We have a chance to talk with the server. He shares my admiration of Queen and Freddy Mercury. The Queen movie is a few months away,
We begin our walk back. We discover that you can walk around the steep hill, It is still a climb but not as tiring.
Still no heat, but the television works and the room is pleasant. It is a quick trip to Tesco Express. Dinner in the room.
Tomorrow - more walking.
We were told Glasgow was the "murder capital of Europe". Gangs roamed the streets. Criminals and gangs rule.
Glasgow has suffered. With the decline of manufacturing in the UK in 70's and 80's, Glasgow did see a substantial decline in population. There was urban flight to the suburbs. The city of Glasgow reached a peak in 1938 with a population of 1,127,825.
Today, Glasgow is a city of 615,070 with 1,209,143 people living in the Greater Glasgow urban area and 1,800,000 in metropolitan area. That is approximately 33% of Scotland's population.
Glasgow is a port city with access to world markets by the Firth of Clyde.
The city's East End remains a problem area with high unemployment.
The City Center of Glasgow is very vibrant and cosmopolitan urban area, There is construction every where. The train station. the Streets. The buildings. The Glasgow School of Art which has burnt twice - once in 2014 and gain in 2018.
The city is very pedestrian friendly. The City Center is an easy walk. Except of the hills. Oh, I forgot to mention the hills. Scotland is a land of hills - steep hills.
I start the day before dawn. It is dark as I walk to try to find a coffee shop. My first impression of the neighborhood. Yes, we are on a border. Two blocks behind the hotel is a major commuter artery with heavy traffic. There are high rise residential and office complex. The streets are empty. The street that appears to have shops and restaurants are fenced and torn up. We are about six blocks from the heavily damaged Glasgow School of Art. Major portion of the structure is being demolished which results in further street blockage and an extended (inaccurate) perception of decay.
I find a small family owned coffee shop. It is more of a sandwich shop for local office employees. The coffee is not great. The ambience is functional. There is a lack of morning biscuits.
I eat and drink quietly. No WIFI.
I do not dally. I leave disheartened.
It is still dark. I begin my long walk. Betty will not awake for awhile.
Why are we in Glasgow? Lots of good reasons actually. We are on our way to Oban. Our son and daughter in law honeymooned in Scotland and praised their journey and, especially, Oban.
We do not drive. We relay on trains and occasionally, buses. By traveling to Oban, we hope will give us a chance to see the outstanding scenery of Scotland's Highlands. By crossing from the east coast of Scotland and to the west coast, we will gain a fuller flavor of Scotland.
It is also a time to rest. we have been traveling for 18 days and four cities, three flights and lots of sightseeing. We have another 12 days with a long journey to Southwold, England.
As the sky lightens, I start up St Vincent Street. When I say "up" I mean up. I am concerned that although Betty's foot has improved greatly, but this hill is steep. I am walking back to the Central Station which is my "known point". Also When the cab took us to the hotel, I was impressed. I am going to find that a drinkable cup of coffee.
In the UK, there are several serviceable coffee chains for a morning roll and coffee. Starbucks, Nero and Costa are ubiquous. In London, there are lots of independents.
I pass offices and lots of "To Let" signs. There are small sandwich shops but nothing is open. We like to walk when possible. I am concerned that we may have to use cabs - the steep hills and distant to Glasgow sites.
The city is coming to life. More cars. I am saved. I find a Starbucks. I start to understand Glasgow better. It is a working city. It is a little like Dublin. Yes, they welcome tourists but the city's geography does not cater to tourists.
Glasgow has a great sense of humor. The equestrian statute of Wellington on Exchange Square is daily topped with a traffic cone. This commentary on the quinntessential hero of Britain is a statement that all is not well with the UK. The cone is removed every morning and replaced by "vandals" every night.
When I return to the hotel, Betty is up and getting ready. She asks where should we go. My answer is that I am not certain. The focus is to relax. The water is running in the room but still no heat. They have given us a small portable heater.
We leave the hotel and turn left. We walk to the Theater and turn right and walk up Bath Street.
Earlier I saw a restaurant called "The Butterfly and The Pig". The menu looked interesting and local. As opposed to the kids, I tend not to check YELP reviews. I trust my luck and feel.
It is somewhat early so we get a table without a reservation. I did burritos in Edinburgh. Betty and I had several very good meals so far in Scotland. But, nothing which would be considered "Scottish crusine.
There is haggis as an appetizer on the menu. I am not certain. But, I know I have to try. Fortunately, haggis has evolved. It no longer is stuffed sheep stomach. The menu is not specific as to ingredients.
I am guessing that "haggis" means by definition sheep liver, sheep heart and other undefined parts of sheep.
It was not bad. I would order again - but, only in Scotland.
I also order steak pie. Betty has often ordered pies. This is my first. It is very tasty - a large beef pot pie. Lunch is leisurely.
We walk down Bath Street to Buchanan Street. Buchanan Street is a closed pedestrian street, The open mall is about seven to eight blocks long with stores on both sides. The temperature is mild so the stroll and window shopping is pleasant.
And, there it is. Another family tradition to be continued. There is the Hard Rock Cafe of Glasgow. We go souvenir shopping. Not great.
We decide that we are tired and a drink sounds great. It is a narrow building with the restaurant up a staircase. Remember Glasgow is our rest stop. Slow down. Restore.
We find a booth and order cocktails. It is not crowd - too early. the bar area is small. We have a chance to talk with the server. He shares my admiration of Queen and Freddy Mercury. The Queen movie is a few months away,
We begin our walk back. We discover that you can walk around the steep hill, It is still a climb but not as tiring.
Still no heat, but the television works and the room is pleasant. It is a quick trip to Tesco Express. Dinner in the room.
Tomorrow - more walking.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)