We have taken longer journeys. So far, this journey has been twelve days. Bill and Caroline depart early Saturday morning. Betty and I leave for Scotland later on Saturday. We will have to be in Dublin overnight on Friday. We have done a great deal. It has been fun.
Today, we decide to rest. The weather continues to hold. It has been excellent for us. We have commented on how green the landscape is. Locals tells us that this has been a dry summer with less rain fall than normal.
Betty and Caroline have not had a chance to do the tourist thing. The decision is to walk a little and then an early lunch. Bill and I have developed a working knowledge of Central Wexford.
We window shop as we walk to the Yard.
The population of the city is slightly more than 20,000. I would not call the city affluent, the city is more comfortable and affordable. Like a great deal of Ireland, the overall population is young. But, my feelings are that because of its location, there are a number of retired and professional residents.
This is evident in the stores and the restaurants. The Yard reflects this upper mobility. The staff definitely has a European feel to it. Several of the staff are French. The menu has a more Continental feel to it. They call it modern Irish cuisine.
We are early and seated quickly. The food is good. The wine selection is definitely French with Chilean and Argentinian. We finish and walk over to the gourmet shop. Wexford is known for its "Wexford Cheese" which is a smooth and creamery (yes, I know the same as Guinness) cheddar. There are also local food products - chutneys, jams and honey.
Nothing encourages walking more than a leisurely lunch. We turn right out of the restaurant and walk slightly up hill. We have no specific destination.
Bill and I have walked a great deal, but have not visited many shops or sights. We enter Wexford Arts Centre. Wexford is far more than a small city in southeastern Ireland. It is aspirational.
Aspirational is a good thing. In this case, aspirations result in an exhibit which is extremely self-indulgent. A short film about a woman doing something. She is self conscious. The film maker is saying that if you do not understand my art - you obviously are not aware.
But, I do watch the film. The Centre is proud of its exhibit. And, who am I to judge. Most importantly, it reflects that Wexford attempts and encouragement of arts. Interestly, the artist is not Irish and not local resident.
Every year in October, there is the Wexford Festival Opera. Founded in 1951 by local opera aficionados. It is a world class event known for programming unusual and rare works. The Festival embraces new and upcoming young singers while including new international names who made their first appearances at the festival.
The women at the desk are very helpful and charming. I think they enjoy the idea of tourists visiting the center. Betty purchases a CD by local musicians. It is not very good. Aspirations.
I could see living in Wexford. Of course, we are friendly tourist and only interacting with friendly tourist oriented Wexfordians ( I made that word up - not surprised are you?). Like most small towns, I am sure that Wexford has cliques. I gained that impression from our neighbor driver on Tuesday.
But, still there is a great deal to like about Wexford.
We continue to walk to the far end of Main Street. The Bull Ring forms a square in the center of town. There is minor street construction going on. In 1621, the Guild of Butchers brought this sport to Wexford (makes sense - Butchers, Bulls - and Bull-Baiting is not a sport). A bull was chained to an iron stake before being set upon by specially bred dogs. The bull dies and the dogs are injured or die.
Now, the really bloody - Cromwell (this man was sick - and oh, by the way English - what is there about the English and the enjoyment of massacres) massacred "put to sword that came their way ...not many less than 2,000". after his soldiers breached the town walls. That was 1662 and apparently, Cromwell was on holiday in Ireland and if you are Cromwell, when bored - kill people. Specifically, you kill Catholic men, women and children ( for that matter, I don’t think Cromwell liked anyone who did not share his vision of salvation).
Now, the Bull Ring anchors the north end of the central Wexford shopping. Further north by about 200 yards is Dunnes (the "Target" store of Ireland).
North and South Main Street define the shopping and eating in Wexford. The stores are a combination of "people with a great idea" and established small businesses. There are not many chain stores. Dublin is more global.
Betty shops for gifts for the kids. She buys a beautiful gold chain for Caroline as a birthday present.
It is a slow walk down Mail Street. We stop at small shops along the way to our destination - a bookstore.
Readers Paradise is not the best bookstore I have ever been in. It is comfortable. On the second floor, they sell coffee and sweets. The couches and chairs are comfortable. I am very comfy.
If you want to find us in any city we visit, look for the bookstore. In practical terms, we are looking for specific books. Caroline tries to purchase a copy of "Pride and Prejudices" in cities she visits. Betty and I try to collect "Poirot" or if that fails "Agatha Christie". We started at the book stalls in Rome.
Apparently, what we thought was unique souvenirs may not be or the English speaking world is not as enthralled with Agatha. It is not easy to find these novels - particularly, "Pride and Prejudices".
Another reason is that it is not a tourist thing to do - other than those looking of maps and postcards.
A bookstore will tell you a lot about the area. For example, in Paris there appears to be a bookstore everywhere - you name it, there is a book shop for it. But, they do not have comfy couches and coffee. London has 2-3 major chains - and they do have coffee.
The last objective of the day is a local Pub. In Dublin, there are pubs. We found one in the Temple district - had to be local - the bride's party in the pub was definitely local. But, it was Dublin. We wanted this last pub to be local.
I had surveyed the local pubs earlier in the week and there was one that seemed to fit. I selected a pub just off Main Street. The criterion was no food and looked used.
Mary's Bar seemed to fit. And, this is where I got the feeling that there are cliques in Wexford. I am not complaining - walk into a local Tavern in any US city and you are made aware that you are not local. Also, there are customs you are not aware of - for example, you order and pay at the bar. There is seldom table service (that is true in US also - we just do not think of it or do not go to those neighborhood bars often).
So it was not singing the evening away. It was an adventure and we enjoyed our local beers. We travel tomorrow so a long night was not planned.But, if we were interested, Wexford has a lot of places to celebrate long into the night and listen and sing with the locals. Wexford does like to party.
Bill and I leave to go food shopping - Dunnes. It is a little late. But, Dunnes is open. We leave tomorrow so it is enough to get us through the night.
Tomorrow, train to Dublin.
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