Our last full day in Dublin.
We have erred. We should spend, at least, one more day in Dublin. We do not drive when we travel internationally. That can be a determent. In Ireland, where the beauty of the land is a major appeal, not driving is a hindrance.
Driving gives you a freedom on schedule and allows visitation to more sites in a day.
We will be leaving by train tomorrow for Wexford. That will be tomorrow's adventure.
Caroline has volunteered to remain at the house. we are expecting a package via Fed Ex. Morning delivery is scheduled. It is important.
Betty has made reservations for a tour of Dublin. The tour focus is the Book of Kells.
We take a cab to Trinity College which is on the edge of Central Dublin and just off Temple Bar (notice that I mention Temple Bar a lot) .
Trinity College was founded in 1592 by the English crown. Trinity is one of the seven ancient universities of Britain and is a public institution.
It is rush hour and crossing the street to enter the college is dangerous, Irish drivers are clever, brave and aggressive. They are not as bad as the London drivers and slightly better than Rome. And then, there is the adjustment that traffic moves from the left.
The guide is a somewhat disheveled. He is a professional. He has practiced his craft. He understands his audience and as he gains our attitudes and preferences, he tempers his presentation.
We are off. It is a small group. The highlight of the tour is the must-see Book of Kells. It is first on the the tour.
Through the portal of the College to the Old Library, we pass to the isolated exhibition room.
The Book of Kells contains the four Gospels based on the Vulgate text completed in 384 AD by St Jerome.
The book is on vellum (prepared calf skin) in a script known as "insular majuscule". The book contains 340 folios and has been severely trimmed and edges are gilded - result of a rebinding in the 19th century. The book was separated into the four separate books over the ages.
The book may have been constructed whole or part by monks on the island of Iona (off the coast of Scotland). After a Viking raid in 806AD. the Columban monks took refuge in a new monastery at Kells, County Meath. There is no certainty whether the Book was initiated at this monastery or completed at this monastery after the relocation of the monks.
The manuscript is lavishly decorated with incomparable artistry of abstract decoration and images of plants, animals and human ornament.
Of course, your time in front of the case is limited. There is the Book of Kells. Well, not exactly. Two volumes are open. One is open to display decorated page and one to show two pages of text.
I have seen the Book of Kells - well, to be honest, I was in the same room as the Book of Kells.
The Book can be viewed online.
We enter the main chamber of the Old Library is the "Long Room". The Long Room was built between 1712 and 1732 and is filled with over 200,000 of the library's oldest books. The library can claim a copy of any book published in Britain and Ireland. The barrel-vaulted ceiling was completed in 1860. The Library is big on busts.
You walk quickly - do not linger. Do not touch. Do not ask questions.
The tour is longer than I expected. It is more of a tour of Central Dublin. A brief outline of the history of Trinity College. We walk to the statue of Molly Malone. The tour takes us back to Dublin Castle. I am glad that we have taken the tour - more information and more insight in how the Irish perceive their history.
You find that - at least - the eastern/southern part of the island - are very aware and proud of the Viking influence of their culture and gene pool.
We call Caroline. The package has arrived. This event made me a believer in Fed Ex. The London and Dublin staff went out of their way to deliver the package. They cared and kept in contact.
We are not so lucky with the laundry. I think I told you that on arrival on Saturday, Bill and I tried first to find a self laundry and failing, left the dirty clothes at the laundry to be picked up on Monday.
Caroline tried to pickup. They could find mine but not Bill's. The owner apparently has a unique system of inventory which no one understands. Since the owner was not there, we have to return before 4:30 closing to retrieve Bill's.
We leave at 7 AM for a train to Wexford tomorrow. This is before store opening. The clock ticks the rest of the afternoon.
Caroline takes a cab and meets us at a restaurant across from Temple Bar. The restaurant is full. The food is above average and slightly pricey.
As we eat and wait for Caroline, we decide that we should take afternoon tea. The recommendation is the Shelbroune Hotel (Marriott). It is the highest rated. It is next to St. Stephen's Green and it is a beautiful day for a walk. Betty has not had a chance to see Central Dublin so a short walking tour is in order.
Caroline arrives. Betty orders several cookbooks from the restaurant. The books will be shipped. We pay the bill.
It is a little further to St Stephen's Green than we remember. Yep, we got lost trying to impress Betty with my knowledge and familiarity with Dublin.
The plan is to take a leisurely walk through St Stephen's. Betty is not as impressed with the historical placards invoking the follies of the Easter Uprising as I am. And, justly so. However, we do read about Countess Constance Markievicz. Between 1911 and 1920, she was imprisoned by the British government four times for acts of treason (one man's terrorist is another man's martyr). Being a true revolutionist, she was imprisoned by the Irish Government for treason.
The Countess was sentenced to death by firing squad for her actions during the Easter Rising. She was spared because of her gender.
Women were heroes during the Rising and probably more realistic on the lack of skill (common sense) of the Irish leaders.
On reflection, the Irish Rebellion has two faces. The first, those who sought independence from England - that was their fight. Their grievances were against the oppression of this foreigner too long on their soil. They fought for self determination.
The other rebels were anarchists. Theirs was to create a social and political revolution that would roll through the world once it left Ireland. They did not see Ireland as a country but as the beginning of the end of oppression by the capitalistic system. To them, it was a world revolution to be won when class distinctions were eliminated.
Both were martyrs in achieving independence for Ireland. Both caused needless deaths. Both were really incompetent militarily. Both were willing to betray others to achieve. Both gloried in their martyrs. Both were martyred by a cruel and sadistic English government. And often, they were the same people.
I prefer the rebels for independence. The other vision is just another form of oppression - just not as well dressed.
Based on the Communist bookstore in Temple Bar - the revolutionists are live and well in Dublin.
We cross the street to the Shelbroune. The British had placed machines on the third floor overlooking the green. With a clean field of fire, John Connolly and the other leaders again proved that they were better at being shot than shooting.
The Shelbroune is a grand hotel. It is splendid. We are early for the 3 PM Tea Serving. We wait in the lobby and the staff prepare the tables. Others arrive. Several are hotel guests. Others appear to locals celebrating an event or an afternoon.
We are seated. The menu of beverages is presented. We elected not to have the champagne. The selection of teas is extensive and interesting. I have the house tea. Betty has the matcha tea latte. Bill and Caroline select other teas.
The room is full. to our right and left are women - apparently local - out for an afternoon. They are having champagne.
The tea is served in the traditional manner with a silver tea strainer held by the server as she pours the tea.
The tiered tray arrives with petite sandwiches (savones) on the lower tiers and pastries on the top tiers.
The sandwiches are tasteful. The pastries are by the hotel's pastry chef and also tasteful.
Unfortunately, the food and ambience cannot overcome the poor service. I have no idea what the issues were but the service derailed a memorable occasion.
We finish about 4 PM. Outside the doorman locates a cab for us. Again, the driver cannot locate our residence on his GPS/ as the meter runs. Again, Caroline takes charge and turn by turn guides him.
Bill and I leave immediately to the laundry. Sure enough, the owner's system is perfect - who doubted - she does offer a slight apology for her assistant's lack of skill - we leave thinking how well that went.
It is a short dinner. We pack since we need to leave for an 8:40 AM train. It appears that the train station is not far away by cab, but it will be rush hour.
So far we have missed or lost some charger cables. But, other than that.
Tomorrow - Wexford.
No comments:
Post a Comment