"We were always loyal to lost causes, the professor said. Success for us is the dark of the intellect and of the imagination"

Our last full day in Dublin.
We have erred. We should spend, at least, one more day in Dublin. We do not drive when we travel internationally. That can be a determent. In Ireland, where the beauty of the land is a major appeal, not driving is a hindrance.
Driving gives you a freedom on schedule and allows visitation to more sites in a day.
We will be leaving by train tomorrow for Wexford. That will be tomorrow's adventure.
Caroline has volunteered to remain at the house. we are expecting a package via Fed Ex. Morning delivery is scheduled. It is important.
Betty has made reservations for a tour of Dublin. The tour focus is the Book of Kells.
We take a cab to Trinity College which is on the edge of Central Dublin and just off Temple Bar (notice that I mention Temple Bar a lot) .
Trinity College was founded in 1592 by the English crown. Trinity is one of the seven ancient universities of Britain and is a public institution.
It is rush hour and crossing the street to enter the college is dangerous, Irish drivers are clever, brave and aggressive. They are not as bad as the London drivers and slightly better than Rome. And then, there is the adjustment that traffic moves from the left.
The guide is a somewhat disheveled. He is a professional. He has practiced his craft. He understands his audience and as he gains our attitudes and preferences, he tempers his presentation.
We are off. It is a small group. The highlight of the tour is the must-see Book of Kells. It is first on the the tour.
Through the portal of the College to the Old Library, we pass to the isolated exhibition room.
The Book of Kells contains the four Gospels based on the Vulgate text completed in 384 AD by St Jerome.
The book is on vellum (prepared calf skin) in a script known as "insular majuscule". The book contains  340 folios and has been severely trimmed and edges are gilded - result of a rebinding in the 19th century. The book was separated into the four separate books over the ages.
The book may have been constructed whole or part by monks on the island of Iona (off the coast of Scotland). After a Viking raid in 806AD. the Columban monks took refuge in a new monastery at Kells, County Meath. There is no certainty whether the Book was initiated at this monastery or  completed at this monastery after the relocation of the monks.
The manuscript is lavishly decorated with incomparable artistry of abstract decoration and images of plants, animals and human ornament.
Of course, your time in front of the case is limited. There is the Book of Kells. Well, not exactly. Two volumes are open. One is open to display decorated page and one to show two pages of text.
I have seen the Book of Kells - well, to be honest, I was in the same room as the Book of Kells.
The Book can be viewed online.
We enter the main chamber of the Old Library is the "Long Room". The Long Room was built between 1712 and 1732 and is filled with over 200,000 of the library's oldest books. The library can claim a copy of any book published in Britain and Ireland. The barrel-vaulted ceiling was completed in 1860. The Library is big on busts.
You walk quickly - do not linger. Do not touch. Do not ask questions.
The tour is longer than I expected. It is more of a tour of Central Dublin. A brief outline of the history of Trinity College. We walk to the statue of Molly Malone. The tour takes us back to Dublin Castle. I am glad that we have taken the tour - more information and more insight in how the Irish perceive their history.
You find that - at least - the eastern/southern part of the island - are very aware and proud of the Viking influence of their culture and gene pool.
We call Caroline. The package has arrived. This event made me a believer in Fed Ex. The London and Dublin staff went out of their way to deliver the package. They cared and kept in contact.
We are not so lucky with the laundry. I think I told you that on arrival on Saturday, Bill and I tried first to find a self laundry and failing, left the dirty clothes at the laundry to be picked up on Monday.
Caroline tried to pickup. They could find mine but not Bill's. The owner apparently has a unique system of inventory which no one understands. Since the owner was not there, we have to return before 4:30 closing to retrieve Bill's.
We leave at 7 AM for a train to Wexford tomorrow. This is before store opening. The clock ticks the rest of the afternoon.
Caroline takes a cab and meets us at a restaurant across from Temple Bar. The restaurant is full. The food is above average and slightly pricey.
As we eat and wait for Caroline, we decide that we should take afternoon tea. The recommendation is the Shelbroune Hotel (Marriott). It is the highest rated. It is next to St. Stephen's Green and it is a beautiful day for a walk. Betty has not had a chance to see Central Dublin so a short walking tour is in order.
Caroline arrives. Betty orders several cookbooks from the restaurant. The books will be shipped. We pay the bill.
It is a little further to St Stephen's Green than we remember. Yep, we got lost trying to impress Betty with my knowledge and familiarity with Dublin.
The plan is to take a leisurely walk through St Stephen's. Betty is not as impressed with the historical placards invoking the follies of the Easter Uprising as I am. And, justly so. However, we do read about Countess Constance Markievicz. Between 1911 and 1920, she was imprisoned by the British government four times for acts of treason (one man's terrorist is another man's martyr). Being a true revolutionist, she was imprisoned by the Irish Government for treason.
The Countess was sentenced to death by firing squad for her actions during the Easter Rising. She was spared because of her gender.
Women were heroes during the Rising and probably more realistic on the lack of skill (common sense) of the Irish leaders.
On reflection, the Irish Rebellion has two faces. The first, those who sought independence from England - that was their fight. Their grievances were against the oppression of this foreigner too long on their soil. They fought for self determination.
The other rebels were anarchists. Theirs was to create a social and political revolution that would roll through the world once it left Ireland. They did not see Ireland as a country but as the beginning of the end of oppression by the capitalistic system.  To them, it was a world revolution to be won when class distinctions were eliminated.
Both were martyrs in achieving independence for Ireland. Both caused needless deaths. Both were really incompetent militarily. Both were willing to betray others to achieve. Both gloried in their martyrs. Both were martyred by a cruel and sadistic English government. And often, they were the same people.
I prefer the rebels for independence. The other vision is just another form of oppression - just not as well dressed.
Based on the Communist bookstore in Temple Bar - the revolutionists are live and well in Dublin.
We cross the street to the Shelbroune. The British had placed machines on the third floor overlooking the green. With a clean field of fire, John Connolly and the other leaders again proved that they were better at being shot than shooting.
The Shelbroune is a grand hotel. It is splendid. We are early for the 3 PM Tea Serving. We wait in the lobby and the staff prepare the tables. Others arrive. Several are hotel guests. Others appear to locals celebrating an event or an afternoon.
We are seated. The menu of beverages is presented. We elected not to have the champagne. The selection of teas is extensive and interesting. I have the house tea. Betty has the matcha tea latte. Bill and Caroline select other teas.
The room is full. to our right and left are women - apparently local - out for an afternoon. They are having champagne.
The tea is served in the traditional manner with a silver tea strainer held by the server as she pours the tea.
The tiered tray arrives with petite sandwiches (savones) on the lower tiers and pastries on the top tiers.
The sandwiches are tasteful. The pastries are by the hotel's pastry chef and also tasteful.
Unfortunately, the food and ambience cannot overcome the poor service. I have no idea what the issues were but the service derailed a memorable occasion.
We finish about 4 PM. Outside the doorman locates a cab for us. Again, the driver cannot locate our residence on his GPS/ as the meter runs. Again, Caroline takes charge and turn by turn guides him.
Bill and I leave immediately to the laundry. Sure enough, the owner's system is perfect - who doubted - she does offer a slight apology for her assistant's lack of skill - we leave thinking how well that went.
It is a short dinner. We pack since we need to leave for an 8:40 AM train. It appears that the train station is not far away by cab, but it will be rush hour.
So far we have missed or lost some charger cables. But, other than that.
Tomorrow - Wexford.

"the light music of whiskey falling into glasses"

It is a glorious Sunday in Dublin.
It turns out to be a great decision. I bought the tickets online. I looked at several tour sites - Trip Advisor, Viator and others. I discovered that the best site was the Guinness Storehouse site. Best exhibition of the advantages of the various tours and the pricing appropriate. There are three tours and the objective is to get to the fifth floor bar for a pour of Guinness. Learning is not mandatory.
The basic tour achieves the objective and you learn on the way.
A pint of Guinness is a chalice. At the first sip, you are blind to the realities outside the cool, creamy cocoon of you and the glass. For those milliseconds, the strangers around you are neither your betters nor less. The Irish intrinsically are revolutionists and are uncomfortable with wealth. Centuries of absentee landowners will do that to you. So maybe in the quiet moment, you are better than the lordly gentleman drinking his claret.
It is an Irishman's prayer. Heaven is Guinness on tap.
The symbol of Guinness is the Irish harp facing left. The harp was adopted in 1862 and trademarked in 1875. The Irish government "coat of arms" faces to the right.
Or, at least, the Irish would say.
Guinness was founded in 1759 by Arthur Guinness at St James's Gate. Arthur was smart enough to take a 1,000 year lease on the property. Presently, Guinness is brewed in almost 50 countries and sales in over 120.
The Irish are very proud of the 1,000 year lease - "stick it to the man" approach to capitalism.
The steps to the Fifth floor are informative. Guinness is nitrogenerated. Guinness is best served at 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Both of these qualities make the product on tap preferred and not quite prefect in the bottle.
Guinness is not black. It is ruby red. Next time, hold your first pint to the light. By knowing this simple fact, you will appear to be an experienced drinker of "the creamy, dreamy", a world traveler and de facto, Irish. 
I will also mention that the glass makes a different. A thicker glass holds the beer at the ideal temperature longer.
The other strengths are the hops and the barley which is brewed at exactly 232 degrees Celsius (449.6 F). How they discovered that seems to be secret.
The 10:15 entry is perfect. We are not tripping over the tours in front of us and the larger tour groups are still an hour away. The objective is the pour.
Caroline, Bill and I take the walk up the stairs and learn about Guinness and the products. Betty views a few exhibits and takes the elevator to the fifth floor. Her foot is still healing and painful.
We arrive at the fifth floor bar for our free pint. At 11:20, the best window seats in the glass circular room are few. Betty has saved us great seats.
We have lunch on the fourth floor. The fourth floor offers multiple restaurants. We chose the cafeteria. Great Choice. "The best Irish Stew I have ever eaten" is not historic Irish - it has meat. The star of the stew is the gravy. It makes the dish.
I have the oysters. Oysters and Guinness are epicurcean. Yep, they go together well.
Of course, another Guinness.
We have 2:20 PM tickets at Teeling Distillery. Lunch and Gift Shopping is leisurely. A cab to Teeling is 7 minutes away. We are warm inside and the day is comfortable outside.
The origin of the word - Whiskey - may be from either Ireland and Scotland. "Uisge beatha" or "usuebaugh" is Gaelic for "water of life". A translation from the Latin, "aqua vitae" describes the joy of Spirits. Both Ireland and Scotland claim to have given birth to whiskey.
At one time, Ireland produced approximately 60% of the whiskey consumed in the western world. Because of over production (quantity over quality), trade war with England and Prohibition, Irish Whiskey consumption dropped to 6% of the world market.
Dublin had 37 distilleries. By 2010, there was not a distillery in Dublin.
Fortunately, there has been a rebirth of Irish Whiskey. Irish whiskey is differentiated from other whiskeys by being tripled distilled, using unmalted barley and in barrel for 3 years.
(Tennessee whiskey is at least 51% corn and aged in barrel for a minimum of 2 years)
Again, I found that the best way to order tickets is online and from the distillery's website. The issue with the tour websites are that they broker "tour" groups who may have a mark up and tend to promote the more expensive tours and/or their services which may or may not be worth the additional cost. As always, shop.
We have chosen the second tier tour which involves a tasting of Teeling whiskeys at the end of tour.
Teeling is an Irish whiskey distillery established in Dublin in 2015. It is the first new distillery to have opened in Dublin in over 125 years. The last of the original Dublin distilleries closed in 1976.
The distillery was founded by Jack and Stephen Teeling, whose father John Teeling had founded the Cooley Distillery in 1987.
Located in Dublin's "Liberties" area (the historical epicentre of distilling dubbed the "golden triangle" of Irish whiskey), it is close to where Walter Teeling, an ancestor of the family had established a distillery on Marrowbone Lane in 1782.
The first whiskey produced at this distillery was released in November of this year. Teeling has been bottling and selling the whiskeys from the 16,000 casks that their father, John, had negotiated when Cooley Distillery was sold to Jim Beam.
The tour was excellent. It is informative and moves to the tasting with speed.
The tour outlines the history of whiskey in Ireland and Dublin. Teeling is triple distilled. It is remarkable small operation. It is simple and direct.
The objective is consistent - produce alcohol.
When the unmalted barley has started to shoot, the germination is stopped by drying in a kiln using wood and other sources including peat.
This grounded "malt" is now called "grist". "Grist" is converted into "mash" using water. The water for Teeling comes from a specific source outside of Dublin.
The process results in "wort" - "the sugars in the malt dissolve and these are drawn off through the bottom of the mash tun".
Yeast is added to the "wort" which turns the sugars into alcohol.  This liquid is low in alcohol (similar to beer and ale) and is called "wash". The process, at this point, is the same as beer.
It is the distillation process increase the alcohol. Irish whiskey is distilled three times - but at this point - the alcohol could be gin or volka.
The taste and quality of the whiskey is a combination of the water, yeast, barrels and, the key, the skill of the stillman.
Barrels give the alcohol it's color and flavor. Today, distilleries use barrels from the wineries of California, Spain, France, other whiskey barrels and experimentations.
As we finished the tour, we see the first barrel of Dublin distilled Irish whiskey to be released for nearly 50 years. Bottle No. #1 sold at auction in September for 10,000 sterling. The sale went to local charities.
Finally, we enter the tasting room. We have a tasting of four Teeling whiskeys (bottled from John Teeling's 16,000 casks). They were all great, Bill, Caroline and I liked the least expensive best.
It was smooth, excellent "nose" and it tasted great.
We meet Betty in the cafe and shop the gift shop.
It is almost 4:30. We easily located a cab. Unfortunately, the cab cannot locate our residence - even with GPS. With the meter running, Caroline has anticipated the problem and has the directions on her phone.
A turn here and a turn there. Oops, turn back to the previous corner turn left. Caroline saved the day and reduced the driver's income. In the driver's defense, not a lot of cabs in the area and a number of one way streets.
We are home. And, dinner is whatever is in the refrigerator.
P.S. Guinness is owned by Diageo plc located in London. It is in good company with other brands, such as, Johnnie Walker.

"Being Irish, he had an abiding sense of tragedy, which sustained him through temporary periods of joy"

Ireland is an island divided between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland which is part of the United Kingdom. The Republic occupies five-sixths of the island with a population slightly less than 4,800,000.
Dublin is the largest city of the Republic. Population of the city is estimated at 554,000. The Dublin metropolitan population is approximately 1,250,000.
Irish history is one of conflict and oppression. The present peace and prosperity began in 1998 with the Good Friday Agreement. It remains an uneasy truce.
Approximately, 12,000,000 people have migrated from Ireland in the last 200 years. Approximately. one million people died from starvation in Ireland from 1846 to 1851. During these years, Ireland lost 20% -25% of its population from deaths and migration.
The first positive growth is population was 2008.
The Republic of Ireland is a member of the EU.

The Irish are a maudlin people. They are quick tempered, dry sense of humor, quick to weep and resolute in their fate. In summary, a great people.
I am Irish according to my mother and 61% by 23andme.

It is Saturday in Dublin.
Bill and I are up early. There is a bakery down the street for coffee and muffin.
Our residence is a small house and recently renovated. It is in an older section of the city and across the river Iffy. I am guessing the row house was built in the late 1800's.
Dublin's older residential architecture is noticeably different than London. The houses are 2 story versus 3-6 in London. Materials are brown brick as opposed to red brick or stone. Dublin was neutral during WWII and did not suffer the damage that London did.
Caroline is sleeping on the pull-out in the TV/Living Room. Leaving for coffee, we let Betty and Caroline sleep a little longer.
Bakery is a misnomer. We sit outside as the delivery truck delivers the baked goods for the day. So, it is a bakery store. The biscuits are good and the coffee strong. It is a great day. We are in Dublin.
Caroline is dressing as we get back. Bill and I have walked the local community and found a sign which says "the city" with an arrow pointing to a left turn.
I have read very little about Dublin. James Joyce forgive me. In literature and history, the cities are London, Paris and Rome, literary geniuses did not go to Dublin to drink or write. I venture that the old Dublin was the Gary Indiana or Detroit of Europe - you were from there and left when you had bus fare.
Dublin has definitely changed. It is young, active and progressive. It has gentrified and quickly.
Caroline is in charge. She has confidence. She knows where she is going and it is Temple Bar.
We leave the house. Turn left at the light. Turn left at the arrow and cross a bridge. Almost all European cities are river cities. The Iffey flows through Dublin to the sea. The Iffey is neither as broad as the Seine nor the Thames. It is not a working river. It is swift flowing and separates Dublin surely as the viaducts separates neighborhoods in Chicago.
We pass Christ Church and wonder up to the door. There is price to pay to enter. It is the Church of Ireland so our salvation is not dependent on the price.
As I found out during the trip - all Churches were Catholic at creation. The two centuries of Reformation eliminated that simplicity. Be honest, did you know that there was a Church of Ireland? This became a common comment on the journey. "I did not know."
Within Minutes of leaving the church, we have entered the social and mercantile center of Dublin. Betty, as always, has done well. We are close to the events and locations, but several hundred dollars less.
Temple Bar is a place - actually, a very large bar with a lot of bars inside. Temple Bar is also a destination. You have entered Dublin (tourist) - enjoy the numerous bars, restaurants and a Communist Bookstore. Temple Bar is a definition - it is young, assertive, fun, progressive and open 23 hours a day.
We find the "place" and decide that we need a coffee at the shop across the street (street is not correct - more like 20 feet that divide one side of a building from another with a walkway in between.
After coffee, we walk to find Molly Malone. Molly is a statute in front of St Andrews Church. The statute of this fish monger is from the unofficial song of Dublin "Cockles and Mussels". It was donated in 1988 by the Jury Hotel. Unofficially, Molly was a professional woman. Her creator gave her an ample bosom which tradition has glistened by tourists climbing the statue to touch.
With no specific destination, we walk across Fleet Street and meander to Grafton Street which is a pedestrian shopping street.
At the end of the street is the entrance to St. Stephen's Green. The Green is a beautiful park. St Stephen's Green is a singular best exhibit on why there are, have not been or will be never great Irish Generals.
As you walk the Green, there are neat permanent placards posted at various historical sites within the park where the Irish rebels took on the British army in 1916 - the Easter Rising. Although the Rising began the successful rebellion with resulted in the Republic in 1922, it was a Tarantino movie of inglorious acts that got good men and women killed.
Briefly, the Irish rebels took the low ground in the park with tall buildings above them; they forgot to take the telegraph office (the British quickly responded); the guns (no machine guns) from the Germans were captured and did not arrive and three quarters of the rebels did not show since they thought it was bad idea to not be armed going into combat.
But, there were glorious acts of bravery and selflessness. The British acted like brutes and made martyrs of the rebels.  The British rule in Ireland - extending in to the 1990s - is only matched by the British rule of India and China. And in some ways, far worse in longevity and cruelty.
Great Park. Brave people - just not great generals.
We are hungry and head is to the Temple Bar area. Guinness and pizza in a local bar. It is my first order of Guinness in a bar. There is a tradition to a pour. Guinness is to be served a 45 degrees. Guinness has nitrogen injected which creates the distinctive cream on top. The bar person pulls til the pint glass is 3/4 full. The glass sits while the bubbles settle (@ minute). The bar person fills to the top. Do not reach for the glass. You wait until it has settled again and the bar person hands to you.
You now know why Guinness on tap is "neither far nor near" in the US.
We walk to the Dublin Castle. The Castle began as a fortress to guard the river. It was not successful and the Vikings quickly overwhelmed and came back every year to pillage. Eventually, the double mileage credits ran out and the two households costly,
Dublin is a Viking city and the Irish are very comfortable with the Norsemen heritage and genes.
The fortress became British with William the Conqueror and the emblem of British rule for over 800 years.
The Castle is not much of a Castle when compared to the castles of Europe and England. The rooms are smaller; there is wood instead of marble; the paintings are of Viceroys and Earls.
The Castle is the home of the President of the Republic and is used for public functions and international events.
We are exhausted. We started mid morning and we are now walking home. It is late afternoon. We stop to buy dinner.
Tomorrow - we drink. Guinness Storehouse and Teeling Whiskey.