Our third day in London is warm and windy. It is warm for London in September about 68. There is the remains of a hurricane pushing warm air across southern England for the next few days.
The wind has a cooling effect and makes it overall very comfortable.
On Sunday morning we purchased Oyster Cards. Oyster Cards are key to transportation in London. As I mentioned, transportation is expensive in London and that includes the Underground. Purchasing an Oyster Card reduces that expense by some discounting and is convenient. Swap the card through the turnstile. London and Paris uses zones as the meter on how much the ride will cost. As you exit your destination train station you flash your card again to pass through the turnstile.
The Underground is extensive and finding the correct train is quick to learn - look for your destination and what color the line is. Trace that line to its final destination - check the direction. You got it.
We take the District Line to Westminster. We have London Passes which include Tour ride on the Thames River. London Passes do offer discounts and come in 1-2-3 etc days. They are not as useful as the Florence & Paris Passes which allow you to avoid the "Q" (I had to do that "line").
Sites in London - Museums are free - are in the 22 sterling range, any discount is helpful.
We have a three day pass which begins with our Thames ride.
The tour boat is large and reasonably comfortable. The passengers are protected by clear plastic so the wind of the river is negated. There is a snack bar. The guide is informative with a clever sense of humor. It is enjoyable ride down the Thames to the Tower of London.
In the past, I have commented on tourist etiquette. I also realize that sterotyping leads to poor generalizations. Moreover, I am not without guilt. But, you can tell often a group's nationality by their conduct.
In this journey down the Thames - the Japanese tour group displayed all the impolite mannerism that are associated with a "tourist".
A gentleman edges his way in front of the snack line and keeps waving his credit card in front of his face and keeps ordering his order. I grant there is a language issue - but to learn "please", "thank you" seems easy. On an online tutor for languages - Durlingo - Japan has the highest percentage of participants.
The Captain suggests that tourists do not need to move to one side of the boat for photos of the Tower Bridge - better views will be shortly - of course, the Japanese tourist rush.
My learning experience from this is - do not bring the ordinary life mannerism to another country. I do think a lot of it is language and lack of familiarity with a different live style. But, it is annoying.
The Tower is still there. Last time, it was cold and wet. The Tower (actually a castle) looks grander and larger.
We stop for a refresher - coffee and water. We separate - Bill by himself and Caroline and I and Betty by herself. Betty has been here at least three times, so her focus is to see the Crown Jewels.
Bill, Caroline and I head to the Armory. Twenty nine months ago, we did not tour this exhibit.
The knight armor exhibit is interesting. The armor gives you a sense of the size of these men.
With Henry VIII, it is the girth of his armor. I understand he was reportedly over 300 lbs and, judging from the armor, not especially tall. Perhaps, his health and size had something to do with his temperament later in life.
The Crown Jewels has improved. They have made slight changes. To my memory, the explanations of the various exhibits has improved. I do like the escalator that moves you past the "Queen's Crown". No loitering - in a very subtle way.
Caroline and I have separated from Bill. We watch the changing of the guard in front of the Crown Jewels building. We move to a favorite area the prison and zoo.
The exhibit begins with torture devices. The exhibits keep saying that there were not many prisoners or executions. But, when you start counting - there were a lot.
We move quickly. We have seen before but still interesting that across the castle's walls - London is across the street. Buses, cars and people out on lunch break.
We gather again at snack shop and go to lunch at Pret a Manger. They are everywhere. We find a table outside. Be selective. Caroline's meatball sandwich was onions. Stay with your favorite.
We walk to the Underground and from this different angle we gain an appreciation of the size of the castle.h
By the time, we reach St Paul's Cathedral it 4:30 and the church has closed to tourists.The church opens again at 5 PM for evening services. We can climb neither the dome or visit the cribs underneath. We are disappointed.
Shakespeare's Globe Theater opens at 7 PM. We have tickets for Othello. The theatre is within walking distance of St Paul's and visible from the river.
The theatre is a recreation of the original Globe including open to the elements, thatched, benches and standing only on the first floor.
We have a light dinner at a restaurant across from St Paul. It is pleasant. Later,when viewing a photo of the area around St Paul during the German bombing (The Blitz) we find that the restaurant was in the only building standing - on the corner and a restaurant.
As always, we have ordered online. So we need to arrive early.
The Globe is a very short walk from St Paul. It is across a magnificent pedestrian bridge across the Thames. The Millennium Bridge was dedicated in 2000. It is beautiful and functional. Looking back over the foot bridge, the lines of the bridge are drawn directly to the dome of St. Paul.
I am my usual apprehensive self. What line? Do I need to go to ticket pickup? Are the printed online paper our tickets. We are on the top gallery. I have not told Betty that there are benches, not seats. The only comfort will be the cushions I paid extra for.
I work my way through the first series of issues - the online is fine, our entrance is in the front of the building, and the cushions are adequate.
Now, we have to deal with climbing to the top. Betty broke her foot several months ago and recovery has been slow. The apartment has an elevator which has helped. But, it takes a lot of courage and effort to walk long distances and, especially, to climb stairs.
It is not that bad. The weather is comfortable and clear skies. Looking up, you can see the planes on final approach to Heathrow. The cushions are not great, but help and the view of the stage is fantastic.
This is Shakespeare as the audience in 1604 may have seen the performance. There are no stage lights, no mics, little scenery and few props.
This is Caroline's first Shakespeare play. It is my first really professional theatre performance of the Bard. Bill is enthusiastic. The cast is outstanding with Mark Rylance as Lago.
The actors interact occasionally with the standing audience on the ground floor (2 1/2 hours of standing). When the actors turn from us it is difficult to hear all the words. The jets on the way to Heathrow are noted.
What a great experience. Othello, particularly, is often interpreted in the times it is performed in. The last fifty years, the directors often stress the "racial discrimination" aspect. That does exist in the play.The actor playing Othello is black. But this director does neither stresses that nor ignores.
What the director wants you to see is that this is a Tragedy. Othello fatal flaw is pride. Lago is that evil voice (Rylance constantly moves around the stage to emphasize that Lago is that nagging voice to Othello that you are not who everyone thinks you are). Othello chooses to believe Lago because Lago is telling him what he suspects already that he is not who you thinks he is and what others perceive him to be.
It is a great experience. We leave the Theatre and try to find our way to an underground station. It is late about 11PM. We are exhausted. Finally, we turn the corner and more stairs, The ride is quick. But another 400 yards to our apartment.
Tomorrow Westminster Abbey.
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