"Our bodies are our gardens, to which our wills are gardeners"

Our third day in London is warm and windy. It is warm for London in September about 68. There is the remains of a hurricane pushing warm air across southern England for the next few days.
The wind has a cooling effect and makes it overall very comfortable.
On Sunday morning we purchased Oyster Cards. Oyster Cards are key to transportation in London. As I mentioned, transportation is expensive in London and that includes the Underground. Purchasing an Oyster Card reduces that expense by some discounting and is convenient. Swap the card through the turnstile. London and Paris uses zones as the meter on how much the ride will cost. As you exit your destination train station you flash your card again to pass through the turnstile.
The Underground is extensive and finding the correct train is quick to learn - look for your destination and what color the line is. Trace that line to its final destination - check the direction. You got it.
We take the District Line to Westminster. We have London Passes which include Tour ride on the Thames River. London Passes do offer discounts and come in 1-2-3 etc days. They are not as useful as the Florence & Paris Passes which allow you to avoid the "Q" (I had to do that "line").
Sites in London - Museums are free - are in the 22 sterling range, any discount is helpful.
We have a three day pass which begins with our Thames ride.
The tour boat is large and reasonably comfortable. The passengers are protected by clear plastic so the wind of the river is negated. There is a snack bar. The guide is informative with a clever sense of humor. It is enjoyable ride down the Thames to the Tower of London.
In the past, I have commented on tourist etiquette. I also realize that sterotyping leads to poor generalizations. Moreover, I am not without guilt. But, you can tell often a group's nationality by their conduct.
In this journey down the Thames - the Japanese tour group displayed all the impolite mannerism that are associated with a "tourist".
A gentleman edges his way in front of the snack line and keeps waving his credit card in front of his face and keeps ordering his order. I grant there is a language issue - but to learn "please", "thank you" seems easy. On an online tutor for languages - Durlingo - Japan has the highest percentage of participants.
The Captain suggests that tourists do not need to move to one side of the boat for photos of the Tower Bridge - better views will be shortly - of course, the Japanese tourist rush.
My learning experience from this is - do not bring the ordinary life mannerism to another country. I do think a lot of it is language and lack of familiarity with a different live style. But, it is annoying.
The Tower is still there. Last time, it was cold and wet. The Tower (actually a castle) looks grander and larger.
We stop for a refresher - coffee and water. We separate - Bill by himself and Caroline and I and Betty by herself. Betty has been here at least three times, so her focus is to see the Crown Jewels.
Bill, Caroline and I head to the Armory. Twenty nine months ago, we did not tour this exhibit.
The knight armor exhibit is interesting. The armor gives you a sense of the size of these men.
With Henry VIII, it is the girth of his armor. I understand he was reportedly over 300 lbs and, judging from the armor, not especially tall. Perhaps, his health and size had something to do with his temperament later in life.
The Crown Jewels has improved. They have made slight changes. To my memory, the explanations of the various exhibits has improved. I do like the escalator that moves you past the "Queen's Crown". No loitering - in a very subtle way.
Caroline and I have separated from Bill. We watch the changing of the guard in front of the Crown Jewels building. We move to a favorite area the prison and zoo.
The exhibit begins with torture devices. The exhibits keep saying that there were not many prisoners or executions. But, when you start counting - there were a lot.
We move quickly. We have seen before but still interesting that across the castle's walls - London is across the street. Buses, cars and people out on lunch break.
We gather again at snack shop and go to lunch at Pret a Manger. They are everywhere. We find a table outside. Be selective. Caroline's meatball sandwich was onions. Stay with your favorite.
We walk to the Underground and from this different angle we gain an appreciation of the size of the castle.h
By the time, we reach St Paul's Cathedral it 4:30 and the church has closed to tourists.The church opens again at 5 PM for evening services. We can climb neither the dome or visit the cribs underneath. We are disappointed.
Shakespeare's Globe Theater opens at 7 PM. We have tickets for Othello. The theatre is within walking distance of St Paul's and visible from the river.
The theatre is a recreation of the original Globe including open to the elements, thatched, benches and standing only on the first floor.
We have a light dinner at a restaurant across from St Paul. It is pleasant. Later,when viewing a photo of the area around St Paul during the German bombing (The Blitz) we find that the restaurant was in the only building standing - on the corner and a restaurant.
As always, we have ordered online. So we need to arrive early.
The Globe is a very short walk from St Paul. It is across a magnificent pedestrian bridge across the Thames. The Millennium Bridge was dedicated in 2000. It is beautiful and functional. Looking back over the foot bridge, the lines of the bridge are drawn directly to the dome of St. Paul.
I am my usual apprehensive self. What line? Do I need to go to ticket pickup? Are the printed online paper our tickets. We are on the top gallery. I have not told Betty that there are benches, not seats. The only comfort will be the cushions I paid extra for.
I work my way through the first series of issues - the online is fine, our entrance is in the front of the building, and the cushions are adequate.
Now, we have to deal with climbing to the top. Betty broke her foot several months ago and recovery has been slow. The apartment has an elevator which has helped. But, it takes a lot of courage and effort to walk long distances and, especially, to climb stairs.
It is not that bad. The weather is comfortable and clear skies. Looking up, you can see the planes on final approach to Heathrow. The cushions are not great, but help and the view of the stage is fantastic.
This is Shakespeare as the audience in 1604 may have seen the performance. There are no stage lights, no mics, little scenery and few props.
This is Caroline's first Shakespeare play. It is my first really professional theatre performance of the Bard. Bill is enthusiastic. The cast is outstanding with Mark Rylance as Lago.
The actors interact occasionally with the standing audience on the ground floor (2 1/2 hours of standing). When the actors turn from us it is difficult to hear all the words. The jets on the way to Heathrow are noted.
What a great experience. Othello, particularly, is often interpreted in the times it is performed in. The last fifty years, the directors often stress the "racial discrimination" aspect. That does exist in the play.The actor playing Othello is black. But this director does neither stresses that nor ignores.
What the director wants you to see is that this is a Tragedy. Othello fatal flaw is pride. Lago is that evil voice (Rylance constantly moves around the stage to emphasize that Lago is that nagging voice to Othello that you are not who everyone thinks you are). Othello chooses to believe Lago because Lago is telling him what he suspects already that he is not who you thinks he is and what others perceive him to be.
It is a great experience. We leave the Theatre and try to find our way to an underground station. It is late about 11PM. We are exhausted. Finally, we turn the corner and more stairs, The ride is quick. But another 400 yards to our apartment.
Tomorrow Westminster Abbey.

"Blimey, girl, you ain't as ugly as I thought"

It is Sunday morning, We have tickets for Buckingham Palace. When I bought online I had visions of a reserved Sunday morning. The description by London Pass sounded like the visit was intimate. As with invitation to the Queen’s Garden Party, anything less than 8,000 is cozy.  I should have become curious with the constant use of the word “exclusive”.
The palace generates income for the royal family. A constant viewing of the rooms of state accomplish that when the Queen is away for the summer.
The effort is superlative. The crowds move quickly. It is not intimate but it is rewarding.
We are up at 6:30. Entrance is at 9:45 AM and demand attendance in line by 9:30.
I ordered online and only have confirm of purchase. Instructions are not clear if these are sufficient for entry or more is needed.
We take a black cab to the Palace. We want assurance that we will arrive timely and secondly, we are not certain where gate C is located. Again, London cabs are expensive. I remember 26 months ago thinking that cabs were the way to travel to London with groups of four and competitive with the Underground. I was wrong. It is partly the traffic- nothing moves. There are constant minutes wasted waiting sometimes 15 cars deep at a light while the meter clicks.
The Underground is the affordable method around London. And walking.
At Gate C, the line is not bad. Tours begin every fifteen minutes. There goes exclusivity.
Bill and Caroline go for a walk. Betty and I stay in line with a mixture of 9:30 & 9:45. Apprehension takes hold. That feeling of getting to the gate and being rejected as all around you begin to laugh at your failure. “Everyone knows you need a ticket”.
I decide to find the ticket office for my answer. I am informed to proceed to number four to obtain my tickets. I am glorious.
The line is advancing as I approach. Caroline and Bill have not returned. Betty is bravely holding the line and wonders “what fool did I marry”.
Within minutes, we are a group again and moving into the waiting area. There are benches. We sit. Others enter and strain to push forward. We now understand the system. Whether at the front or rear, you will receive your headphones and invited to meander through the public palace.
Eventually you realize the everything is temporary. When the Queen returns, all will disappear in a day or two.
It is a great tour. Prince Charles’s voice is masterful and patient. The self guided tour is logical and easy to use.
The art collection is impressive. Charles II definitely wanted to restore the glory of the monarchy.  The collection is heavy on Northern Renaissance- Dutch - art which is great and informative. Rembrandt, Rubens.
Many of the paintings in the halls are portraits. I note that for men the manly bulge below the waist is always to the left which leads me to suspect that fashion dictates and that my curiosity has no limit.
The rooms are heavy on gold. They would be Trumpian but they have class.
The tour is about 2 1/2 hours. We walk the royal gardens. The gardens run parallel to a major avenue and you are only aware of the serenity. You walking in a rich English country oasis with two swans
feeding as they move up the creek. Not a sound
The blast hits you immediately as you cross the gate.
We are exhausted. Over twenty hours traveling to London, then staying up Saturday to acclimate to the time change, we are tired.
It is London. So much to see for the first time and again. We walk through St James Park to Trafalgar  Square. It is Saturday and it is full of life. There is a new lion in the Square and he is neon red. He glows. An artist exhibit.
Security has changed the access. You now enter to the left of the great stairs and columns. This great museum is free. You are only asked for a donation.
It is crowded with individuals and tours.
Of course, Caroline and I march everyone to the cafe. It is as we left it twenty three months ago. The walls, the tables, the chairs, the barista.
Life and happiness in a shared smile and joy. The barista’s English has improved. The Americano, mocha and pastries are as we left them- exquisite.
Now we have time. Wow, we missed so much. The collection is superlative. Historically, not as broad as the Louvre or Uffici. The collection is strong on Dutch painters. They were prolific  They worked on commissions. The Italians were patronized by the church and the wealth of Florence, Milan and the Church. These painters relied on the wealth of capitalists. They are portraits.
I notice the eyes of Rembrandt’s paintings. No blue eyes. If Rembrandt was kind, the eyes are expressive.
We have separated to meet again in the cafe. Of course, I get lost trying to find a Caravaggio.
It is now a little before 5 PM and we search out Wagamana. It is a Ramen restaurant chain in England. Our last visits it, Angela and John lead us this great treat.
We leave Trafalgar Square. Caroline has downloaded this great app which allows you off line track yourself. She is our guide.
It is not the same restaurant. The crowd is less than we expected. It is busy. Staff is quick and efficient.
It is remarkable how a Chinese beer and a bowl of noodles restores you.
We leave and walk to Coventry. It is better than before. Obviously work has been done. There are still the street performers. This time we watch and listen to a baritone singing arias from operas. Very enjoyable evening.
As we walk through there is a kiosk selling men’s hats. Bill and I each buy a hat. A practical souvenir.
It is about 8:30 and a black cab is elected over the Underground. We are close to two lines - Picadilly and District. But it is quarter mile walk from the stations to the apartment that hastens our decision to spend the monies.
Tomorrow The Globe, Shakespeare, the Tower, St Paul

Supercallifraglisticeexpiaidocious is a concept - not actually a word

It has been a long time. Last year was a great year with a wedding in California.
We were confident that it would happen. Last year was spent in the USA with a family event.
We flew into Heathrow on Saturday. I had no idea of the size of Heathrow.. Our plane was an Airbus 300 and the gate was at the far end of terminal. We avoid baggage pickup by traveling with a carry-on and backpack. (Yes, 5 weeks in Europe with carry-on).
My brother, Bill, arrived at a different terminal. We had agreed to meet at a coffee shop in his arrival terminal. Easy, you say. We walked for twenty minutes before reaching terminal 2. Confusion on the elevator. More confusion at the coffee shop. And 30 minutes later, we are four.
It is early Saturday afternoon. We are going into London. Our expectation is that traffic will be light. The cab fare reasonable.
Reality is the traffic is always, always bad in London - and worse in the direction you wish to move.Secondly, that London is huge. Last visit, our apartment was in the Notting Hill area. This apartment is in the Hammersmith District. The owner's advertisement was misleading. The result is a slow twenty three mile journey. An expensive lesson is learned.
The driver points out that someone had damaged the credit card reader so half way through the journey he informs us "cash only".
Fortunately, we used the ATM at the airport and have the cash.
The apartment is on the third floor with a lift (I am proud that I wrote "lift). Third floor, of course, is really the fourth floor. The apartment is in an up and coming area of London. There is a family feel to the area.
Bill and I walk to the Super Tesco and the park is full for a Children's Carnival. There are lots of small shops and restaurants. Trees line the streets. The buildings are white windows offsetting red brick.
I wanted to show Bill the uniqueness of European grocery stores. Tesco is for the family discount shopper. It is not Mark & Spencer. Selection in Europe is always limited. Super Tesco is Winn Dixie without the volume. Great for families - bad for a tourist trying to be cool for his brother.
Bill takes it in great stride. We needed the walk. It is a sunny warm day. We are tired from little sleep on the planes. Traffic is heavy. Of course, I got us lost.
We found a bar/restaurant named Belushi's. Bill is patient and finally, ask for directions. After Bill gets us back on track - I realize my mistake - I turned left instead of right.
Being lost for a short term is not a bad thing. You learn the local streets. You find local places tat you want to visit. You look so much smarter when on the next day someone ask you for directions.
The apartment is in a building being remodeled (gentrified). The owner is a young man who is industrious. He rents out the investment apartment until someone offers him a huge sum to sell.
He is not investing anything in the apartment. The apartment is functional. Two bedrooms along a long corridor with the small kitchen with a microwave with incomprehensible verbal instructions. The small refrigerator is the size of a large cooler and as cold. The clothes washer is old and dangerous.
The faucet only bleeds hot water.
The bathroom was an European tub - high fiberglass walls with a glass barrier which only covers have the tub. The shower head is new. The operation takes practice with only water water. The towels are few and old.
There is barely room to turn around.
The rooms are reasonably clean and the Television and, importantly, the internet is functional.
Caroline takes the sofa bed in the living room.
This is an adventure and the price is reasonable. So it is a fair deal.
Caroline is a great leader and a great story teller. She plans out the stay by day. Tomorrow begins early with our visit to Buckingham Palace.