Saturday, June 4, 2016

"It's a sad fact of modern life that if you drive long enough, sooner or later you must leave London behind"

The weather holds.

It is sunny and mild. In the sun, it is comfortable. It has been a very late spring in London. When we arrived on April 2nd, the trees were just budding. Now two weeks later the majority of trees are barely in leaf.

It is great to cruise the Thames River. With the kids, we had taken a City Cruise to arrive at the Tower of London. Betty and I are now traveling to Greenwich. Betty visited Greenwich on her first trip as we travel memories are retrieved and comparisons made.

We no longer have The London Pass. There are apparently a great many ways to travel the Thames River. We find that the most common method is integrated into the London Transportation system. The Oyster Card works.

We take the Circle Line to the Embankment Station. A wrong turn on my part. A correction by Betty. A hazardous crossing of a street and we are at the docks. It is remarkable simple. Betty speaks to the attendant and confirms the boat we need to take. We flash our Oyster Cards.

The boat is similar to the previous. It is a local so we stop often which is actually enjoyable. It is a commuter boat. We pass under the Tower Bridge. We stop at the Canary Wharf dock which the heart of the new "hip" - upscale area of London. The river is now converted warehouse and docks with restaurants and shops. There are small yachting clubs. The rivop er widens. It is difficult to imagine the river as dirty, busy highway for the riches of the empire.

The outlines and the bones are still there in names. Docks were devoted to the goods the goods they stored.

As the river spreads, the shores become more open. As we reach Greenwich, you understand the importance of the Thames river to London and to the Empire. Greenwich is the crossroads for ships. Over the town of Greenwich a hill dominates the river. It has to be the highest point on the river. At the top of this steep hill (this is my second climb in two days and I admit I stop to catch my breath) is the Greenwich Observatory and the Greenwich Line.

Greenwich is east of London. It was the royal residence of the Tudors. It was a convenient and in  kingly comfort from the Tudor Castle - The Tower of London. The Palace was the birthplace of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. As with all things London, the Palace was rebuilt as the Royal Navy Hospital by Christopher Wren. The buildings became the Royal Naval College and continued as such until 1998.

At the docking, we flash our Oyster Card to exit. We pass the sitting Cutty Sark to the entrance of the National Maritime Museum. I did check and "sitting" is the correct term for a late 19th century schooner now on ground so you can walk around it and pay $20 for the opportunity to walk the decks. We pass.

Once inside, we have to increase the amount on our Oyster Cards. Oyster Cards are like your Starbucks application and takes credit cards. Transportation in the United Kingdom is expensive. It is refundable. You do not want to loss your Oyster Card, especially, if it has a large balance.

The Royal Navy Museum is exactly what a good museum should be - small, direct and brief. What is great is that they have a beer garden and my experience with "clotted cream". It is one of those foods that you will search for the rest of your life.

I order a coffee and scone. For 60 pence (about a $1.00) if I wanted cream and jam. Scones can be dry so I agree. "Clotted cream" is also referred to as "Devonshire Cream". Later, I looked it up. It is a thick cream. You spread on the scone like butter and top with jam. You do not want to stop eating. You want to run about the room asking "try this, it is the food of the gods".

We walk up the street following the other tourist. When in doubt, follow the flow. We are looking for the Royal Observatory. We follow for three blocks and to the a large park. We pass the National Maritime Museum and Queen Ann's Palace which is reportedly the inspiration for the design of the American White House (you can see it).

I should have realized that you put an Observatory on top of a hill. But, I did not. Betty does and she volunteers to guard my seat on a park bench. She has been to the Observatory. It was built in 1899 so not much has changed.

I walk across the park towards the base of the spiral trail that leads to the top. I am confident. Just yesterday, I climbed to top of St. Paul's Cathedral. The hill won. I have to stop just short of the top. It is a steep wide trail. As you climb the view becomes more and more impressive. People have stopped along the road to take photos. Other tourists are on the grass just looking. Some are seating. Most are taking selfies.

The Observatory and the Prime Meridian are in a remarkable small building. Today, the Prime Meridian is an oddity on our smart phones. The solution by Englishman, John Harrison, solved the largest navigation problem - "where am I?'.

Since ancient times, sailors could determine their Latitude (north/south location). But, to navigate accurately, they needed a method to determine their east/west location. The eventual solution was the marine chronometer (yep, there is a whole room of chronometers). The Prime Meridian is an artificial equator now used throughout the world for ships, clocks and GPS to determine your locations.

I pass up the opportunity to see the Prime Meridian and the Observatory. Betty is waiting and the entrance fee is about $25.

The park bench is safe. Betty and I decide to visit the National Maritime Museum. Again, it is not large. Initially, you are not impressed. But, as you wonder the exhibits you become interested. It is when you find the second floor and the exhibits for the West Indies Company and the Slave Trade.

Both are extremely honest looks at the evil of enslavement and greed. I am sure that a student of the period would critique the exhibits more. With my limited knowledge, I found that the exhibitors tried to be honest about this very ugly reason for the wealth of the Empire.

The day is over. Literally they close the doors after us. I do not buy many souvenirs. I like objects that I will use and remind of the experience and location. Here, I buy a 2016-2017 University of Greenwich Calendar Book. I will use as a desk notebook.

We disembark at the Embankment (I had to write that) and take the Tube back to the Hotel. We are getting proficient at the Tube. I really starting to enjoy the location of the hotel and the area around the station is great.

Tomorrow, we go to Oxford.

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