We are going home.
After twenty five days of adventure, we really want to go home. We have had a great time. We are flying out of Heathrow. We are concerned about the time it will take to move through ticketing, security and to gate.
We have heard stories about Heathrow crowds and delays. Heathrow is one of the busiest airports in the world. We need to start early. I settle the hotel bill. Betty discusses with a cab driver out front of the hotel. Again, we find that it is metered. It will be about fifty pounds.
It is about a fifty minute ride to Heathrow. Fortunately for us, our trip is counter-commute. It is about 0900 (9 AM). We arrive a little before 10:00. Terminal 4 is not crowded. We find the Delta ticket desk and check our carry on luggage. We are on the way home and the luggage is safe - nothing but dirty clothes. We have a four hour layover in Minneapolis, MN and a full flight home. We will take our chances with the luggage for the convenience of not dragging even a small piece of luggage through two airports.
Terminal 4 is efficient and almost pleasant. After checking in, you quickly pass through security. You do need to remove your shoes or belt. Passports are checked again. We now have two hours to kill. We find a coffee shop. It is crowded. We find a table and I go up to order. One issue with today's air travel is that you sit a lot and you eat a lot. The longer the flight, the more this is a problem. I can see why intoxication is a problem with passengers.
I am hoping that it is a large, newer plane. It is not. Delta must have one of the oldest international fleets crossing the Atlantic.
Our international flight will be over eleven hours if there are no delays. When compared to Air France on service and quality of the plane, Delta is painful. We are fortunate. The videos and the drinks are free.
We are moving with the sun. When flying to Europe, the advantage is that you pass through day/night. It is easier to sleep (nap) and your body clock resets itself quickly. When flying with the sun, it is like you are proving Einstein theory of "time travel" and the speed of light. You take off at 11:30 and land at 1400 (2:00 PM). Your body has traveled for eleven hours in a narrow tube and you are half a day older.
We will be traveling from the hotel to our house over twenty five hours. We will be sitting in airports for approximately eight hours. We will be on airplanes for fifteen hours. We will be driving about two hours.
We arrive in Minneapolis with no delays. We have Global Entry cards. It is the greatest travel advantage you can purchase. With the Pass, you walk up to the kiosk at the entry of customs. No lines. You place your card in the machine. You scan your passport. They check your fingerprints. The machine prints out your approval. It takes about two minutes. The line takes 30-40 minutes.
We pick up our two checked carry on bags. We do not need to pass through customs. We deposit our luggage for the flight home and enter security and fast tracked.
The Minneapolis International Terminal is very nice. There is shopping and the food court has a lot of options. We go for diet cokes and potato chips.
My theory is that if you have a two hours between connections, something bad will happen and you will be stressed. Four hour layover, you will have time to sit and be bored. This airport has cable monitors and WIFI. It also has the most important accessory of the 21st century - lots of charging stations.
The plane home is as promised full. I finally nap for about two hours. When I wake up, we have only about thirty minutes before landing.
We arrive home about midnight. We are both up by 6 AM and actually feel reasonably well.
Next - Portugal and Spain in the fall of 2017.
Thursday, June 23, 2016
Wednesday, June 22, 2016
Men's evil manners live in brass; their virtues we write in water"
It is our last full day in England. It is Sunday mid-morning. Betty has the travel plan. We will take the District Line to the end of the District Line, Richmond. We will then take a boat up the Thames to Hampton Court.
On Betty's first visit to England, she had traveled up river from London. Our boat trip will be shorter.
The weather has improved. The rain has stopped and the sun shines through the clouds. We add monies to our Oyster Cards. After Greenwich and Oxford, we are not certain if the balance is adequate for the return trip.
Richmond is a bedroom community to London. It is crowded on this Sunday. After two days of poor weather, people want to enjoy the sunshine. Richmond has a great deal going for it. On the Thames and within a commute of London, I am sure that this is an attractive place to live.
We have no real idea where the river is or where the tourist boat docks may be. Betty takes the lead. We turn left from the station. I am hungry. Food is more on my mind than locating the river. We hesitate at an intersection. We follow the first rule of being a tourists. "When it doubt, follow the crowd". It works and there is the Thames.
Both sides of the river have wide paved walks. It is almost noon and people are strolling the banks of the river. There is another "Youngs Brewery". We have no plans. So first, we need to find a tourist boat and then find out if the boat stops and when. It is not as easy as we thought. We walk about a quarter of a mile.
Betty spots the ticket office. It is a small frame structure. Not anything like the ticket offices we have experienced in Greenwich and the Embankment. The attendant is a young woman with her husband, father and daughter on the boat dock. It is very casual affair.
"When is the next boat to Hampton Court?.
"One O'clock"
It is about noon. We buy tickets. It is lunch time. It is short walk to a deli just up the hill. We order at the counter. Food is delivered to the table. The food is good. I definitely notice that the prices are less than London.
The boat arrives about forty-five minutes late. It is a smaller, older boat. The boat has been delayed by the river lock system. Apparently, the river is crowded down river.
On the water, the wind intensifies the cold air. We stay inside. The windows are old and are glazed from water. It is difficult to see out clearly.
Betty remembers from her last visit that the banks of the river are lined with stately homes and estates. We are attentive. The husband of the ticket lady has told us that the estates are up river and we should see shortly after starting.
He was wrong. Both sides of the river are lined with walking paths and trees. The walking paths are well used by the locals. The British like to stroll and it is a pleasant afternoon (except on the water).
There are homes and small boat docks both private and clubs. There are few bridges. It is very much a rural setting.
We approach the Teddington Lock. I have never been on a boat going through a lock. It is very interesting to watch the machinery at work. With all the traffic on the river, it still is one boat at a time.
After a thirty five minute ride, we pull up to the Hampton Court dock. We check the schedule for the ride back. It is Sunday so the weekend schedule may be an issue. It looks like 1700 (5 PM) is the last boat back to Richmond. Just in case, we develop a second plan. There is a train station across the bridge from the castle.
There is a fascination with the Tudors. This is particularly true of Henry VIII, A Nation creates their heroes. The British Museums and Galleries ignore Cromwell and the Commonwealth. Justly so, when a nation is proud of your present monarchy as a tourist attraction, it is not a good idea to mention that your Parliament beheaded their king.
What I find interesting is that there is not a lot of gloating about Elizabeth I and the Elizabethan Period (other than Shakespeare and Oxford's hero Sir Francis Bacon). They do like Henry VIII.
Hampton Court defines Henry VIII. It is a castle envisioned by a TV event. The castle was built by Cardinal Wosley; confiscated by Henry (Henry was not into "sharing") and redesigned by Christopher Wren for William of Orange and Queen Mary. I am always impressed that the English throne has been a "hot potato" and how short some of the dynasties have been.
The castle is definitely tourist friendly. The castle is separated into two sections. There is the original Tudor which includes the Great Hall (the last great medieval hall). At times during Henry's reign as many as 8,000 people would be attendance while he held court.
A highlight of the tour is the extensive kitchen. The heat and the labor in those rooms would have been intensive. Three meals for royalty, aristocrats, retainers and the household staff was a 24 hour effort. The amount of food and wine consumed was truly huge.
We did not get a opportunity to view the Chapel. We did see the bedrooms including Ann Boleyn.
As I walk through this portion of the castle, I wonder why Henry's motivations are not analyzed more. The image of a rotund man (well over 400 lbs at his death)who was obsessive and self indulgent. Henry murdered his wives and betrayed and killed friends.
The young Henry was tall and handsome. He excelled in Royal Tennis, riding and was physical active. Henry also gained the throne due to the sudden death of his older brother, Henry. His father was tyrannical who gained the throne through a civil war (War of the Roses). Why would we think that Henry would be anything other than insecure, paranoid, violent, self indulgent, envious and fearful of death.
In his marriage to Catherine of Aragon, Henry was truly in love. The marriage lasted nearly 24 years.
We often misunderstand that political intrigue and murder were common to the of monarchies of Europe and, for that matter, the rest of history and world. One of the advantages of democracy is that it allows for bloodless transition of governments. One of the great surprises of American History is that Washington peacefully accepted the election of John Adams.
The English monarchies had been in conflict with the Pope for decades. The Roman church was controlled by the princes of France and Hapsburg Empire. The clerics of England were governed by the Pope and Canon Law. Wealth was concentrated in the Church. Henry was very envious of the wealth and military prowess of Francis I of France. The throne of England was the trophy most sought may the kings of Spain and France.
Henry was running out of money, He has no reason to trust his nobles and his advisers. But, why the weight gain? He shared his predicament with all the monarchies of Europe. Just a thought, why the tremendous weight.
When you complete the Tudor tour, you walk to the other side of Hampton Court. I climb stairs and tour the section of the castle that is Baroque. The British definitely have a conflicted attitude with all things French. It is historical. Henry VIII had a city of gold built on the shores of England for the visit of Francis I. William of Orange and Queen Mary initiated a Wren design that resembled Versailles. They demolished half the castle including the staterooms of Henry VIII.
We stop at the coffee shop in the kitchen area. We still have the gardens to view. I am interested in viewing the Real Tennis Court that dates to Henry VIII. In his youth, Henry reportedly excelled at the game.
I am surprised that the game is still played. There is a national team. As I enter there is a coach working with a player. The game has some resemblance to Lawn Tennis. The inside court is approximately the size of a tennis court. The racquet is similar. One difference is that the ball is bounced off the back and side walls.
I watch for about ten minutes. Since they are practicing, I do not gain any insight into play or strategy. It is definitely a gentleman sport. At the practice, no sweats or warmups. It is white shirt, white shorts and white shoes.
The castle closes at 17:00 (5 PM) and we are cutting it close. Betty had decided to walk the gardens while I went to the Real Tennis. I walk out the front gate looking for a place to sit. I then realize that Betty may be looking for me within the castle. But, Betty knows me well and she is only slightly behind me.
We decide that we will take the train back. We are informed that there are trains back to London every hour. We decide to have an early dinner.
Throughout our travels, we have seen Pubs with "Swan" somewhere in the signage. The "Mute Swan" is across the road from Hampton Court and across the bridge from the train station.
I have to mention that when we travel we take risk. The maps and the locals say the train station is across the bridge and that there are trains to London running on this Sunday evening. We do not know where in London. Will our Oyster Card work? Can we buy a ticket? Will the Tube be running when we get there?
So we have dinner. The "Mute Swan" is more a restaurant than a Pub. We are seated quickly. Again, the young man understands the first and only rule of service - make the customer comfortable.
We order a bottle of Spanish red wine. It has been a great deal. As we start to review all we have accomplished, the wine taste great. That warm friendly feeling engulfs us.
We order dinner. Betty goes for a traditional "pie". It is her last chance for awhile and based upon the other dinners, there is a good chance it will be authentic. I have a small steak sandwich.
The food is very good. The ambience is exceptional. There are a few tourists. But the majority are locals. The table next to us is occupied by four ladies. There is a friendly, large Lab laying next to one of the ladies.
On the way out, Betty strikes up a conversation with the ladies. The ladies are interested where we are from in the States. The more talkative lady volunteers that she does not like dogs and cannot visit the US because of some youthful indiscretion. Apparently, US immigration do check those things.
It is about 1900 (7 PM) and we are cross the bridge and to our left is an empty, but open train station. We look at the printed schedule on the wall. It appears that all the trains arrive at the same station - Waterloo. I can think of nothing more appropriate way to end a trip to London than a train to Waterloo.
We flash our Oyster Cards at the machine. They work. The train coach is empty. We study the transit maps diligently. We decide that the worst that happens is that we ride to the end of the line and make decisions from there.
More people come on broad. We feel more comfortable. After about twenty minutes, the train leaves and we follow our progress on the overhead map. We are looking for the name of stations we know so we can transfer to the Tube. It is about 20:00 (8 PM) and it is a weekend schedule.
We arrive at Waterloo Station. It is the end of the line. We walk down the platform and follow signs to the Tube. Waterloo Station may be an older and established. The Tube station is both. There are multiple lines at various levels. The newer lines are on lower levels. So we move down the escalators to the District Line.
It is back to the hotel within ten minutes. We process the Oyster Cards and are refunded our deposit and the remainder on the cards. Hey, it worked.
Tomorrow, we check out and to begin the journey home.
On Betty's first visit to England, she had traveled up river from London. Our boat trip will be shorter.
The weather has improved. The rain has stopped and the sun shines through the clouds. We add monies to our Oyster Cards. After Greenwich and Oxford, we are not certain if the balance is adequate for the return trip.
Richmond is a bedroom community to London. It is crowded on this Sunday. After two days of poor weather, people want to enjoy the sunshine. Richmond has a great deal going for it. On the Thames and within a commute of London, I am sure that this is an attractive place to live.
We have no real idea where the river is or where the tourist boat docks may be. Betty takes the lead. We turn left from the station. I am hungry. Food is more on my mind than locating the river. We hesitate at an intersection. We follow the first rule of being a tourists. "When it doubt, follow the crowd". It works and there is the Thames.
Both sides of the river have wide paved walks. It is almost noon and people are strolling the banks of the river. There is another "Youngs Brewery". We have no plans. So first, we need to find a tourist boat and then find out if the boat stops and when. It is not as easy as we thought. We walk about a quarter of a mile.
Betty spots the ticket office. It is a small frame structure. Not anything like the ticket offices we have experienced in Greenwich and the Embankment. The attendant is a young woman with her husband, father and daughter on the boat dock. It is very casual affair.
"When is the next boat to Hampton Court?.
"One O'clock"
It is about noon. We buy tickets. It is lunch time. It is short walk to a deli just up the hill. We order at the counter. Food is delivered to the table. The food is good. I definitely notice that the prices are less than London.
The boat arrives about forty-five minutes late. It is a smaller, older boat. The boat has been delayed by the river lock system. Apparently, the river is crowded down river.
On the water, the wind intensifies the cold air. We stay inside. The windows are old and are glazed from water. It is difficult to see out clearly.
Betty remembers from her last visit that the banks of the river are lined with stately homes and estates. We are attentive. The husband of the ticket lady has told us that the estates are up river and we should see shortly after starting.
He was wrong. Both sides of the river are lined with walking paths and trees. The walking paths are well used by the locals. The British like to stroll and it is a pleasant afternoon (except on the water).
There are homes and small boat docks both private and clubs. There are few bridges. It is very much a rural setting.
We approach the Teddington Lock. I have never been on a boat going through a lock. It is very interesting to watch the machinery at work. With all the traffic on the river, it still is one boat at a time.
After a thirty five minute ride, we pull up to the Hampton Court dock. We check the schedule for the ride back. It is Sunday so the weekend schedule may be an issue. It looks like 1700 (5 PM) is the last boat back to Richmond. Just in case, we develop a second plan. There is a train station across the bridge from the castle.
There is a fascination with the Tudors. This is particularly true of Henry VIII, A Nation creates their heroes. The British Museums and Galleries ignore Cromwell and the Commonwealth. Justly so, when a nation is proud of your present monarchy as a tourist attraction, it is not a good idea to mention that your Parliament beheaded their king.
What I find interesting is that there is not a lot of gloating about Elizabeth I and the Elizabethan Period (other than Shakespeare and Oxford's hero Sir Francis Bacon). They do like Henry VIII.
Hampton Court defines Henry VIII. It is a castle envisioned by a TV event. The castle was built by Cardinal Wosley; confiscated by Henry (Henry was not into "sharing") and redesigned by Christopher Wren for William of Orange and Queen Mary. I am always impressed that the English throne has been a "hot potato" and how short some of the dynasties have been.
The castle is definitely tourist friendly. The castle is separated into two sections. There is the original Tudor which includes the Great Hall (the last great medieval hall). At times during Henry's reign as many as 8,000 people would be attendance while he held court.
A highlight of the tour is the extensive kitchen. The heat and the labor in those rooms would have been intensive. Three meals for royalty, aristocrats, retainers and the household staff was a 24 hour effort. The amount of food and wine consumed was truly huge.
We did not get a opportunity to view the Chapel. We did see the bedrooms including Ann Boleyn.
As I walk through this portion of the castle, I wonder why Henry's motivations are not analyzed more. The image of a rotund man (well over 400 lbs at his death)who was obsessive and self indulgent. Henry murdered his wives and betrayed and killed friends.
The young Henry was tall and handsome. He excelled in Royal Tennis, riding and was physical active. Henry also gained the throne due to the sudden death of his older brother, Henry. His father was tyrannical who gained the throne through a civil war (War of the Roses). Why would we think that Henry would be anything other than insecure, paranoid, violent, self indulgent, envious and fearful of death.
In his marriage to Catherine of Aragon, Henry was truly in love. The marriage lasted nearly 24 years.
We often misunderstand that political intrigue and murder were common to the of monarchies of Europe and, for that matter, the rest of history and world. One of the advantages of democracy is that it allows for bloodless transition of governments. One of the great surprises of American History is that Washington peacefully accepted the election of John Adams.
The English monarchies had been in conflict with the Pope for decades. The Roman church was controlled by the princes of France and Hapsburg Empire. The clerics of England were governed by the Pope and Canon Law. Wealth was concentrated in the Church. Henry was very envious of the wealth and military prowess of Francis I of France. The throne of England was the trophy most sought may the kings of Spain and France.
Henry was running out of money, He has no reason to trust his nobles and his advisers. But, why the weight gain? He shared his predicament with all the monarchies of Europe. Just a thought, why the tremendous weight.
When you complete the Tudor tour, you walk to the other side of Hampton Court. I climb stairs and tour the section of the castle that is Baroque. The British definitely have a conflicted attitude with all things French. It is historical. Henry VIII had a city of gold built on the shores of England for the visit of Francis I. William of Orange and Queen Mary initiated a Wren design that resembled Versailles. They demolished half the castle including the staterooms of Henry VIII.
We stop at the coffee shop in the kitchen area. We still have the gardens to view. I am interested in viewing the Real Tennis Court that dates to Henry VIII. In his youth, Henry reportedly excelled at the game.
I am surprised that the game is still played. There is a national team. As I enter there is a coach working with a player. The game has some resemblance to Lawn Tennis. The inside court is approximately the size of a tennis court. The racquet is similar. One difference is that the ball is bounced off the back and side walls.
I watch for about ten minutes. Since they are practicing, I do not gain any insight into play or strategy. It is definitely a gentleman sport. At the practice, no sweats or warmups. It is white shirt, white shorts and white shoes.
The castle closes at 17:00 (5 PM) and we are cutting it close. Betty had decided to walk the gardens while I went to the Real Tennis. I walk out the front gate looking for a place to sit. I then realize that Betty may be looking for me within the castle. But, Betty knows me well and she is only slightly behind me.
We decide that we will take the train back. We are informed that there are trains back to London every hour. We decide to have an early dinner.
Throughout our travels, we have seen Pubs with "Swan" somewhere in the signage. The "Mute Swan" is across the road from Hampton Court and across the bridge from the train station.
I have to mention that when we travel we take risk. The maps and the locals say the train station is across the bridge and that there are trains to London running on this Sunday evening. We do not know where in London. Will our Oyster Card work? Can we buy a ticket? Will the Tube be running when we get there?
So we have dinner. The "Mute Swan" is more a restaurant than a Pub. We are seated quickly. Again, the young man understands the first and only rule of service - make the customer comfortable.
We order a bottle of Spanish red wine. It has been a great deal. As we start to review all we have accomplished, the wine taste great. That warm friendly feeling engulfs us.
We order dinner. Betty goes for a traditional "pie". It is her last chance for awhile and based upon the other dinners, there is a good chance it will be authentic. I have a small steak sandwich.
The food is very good. The ambience is exceptional. There are a few tourists. But the majority are locals. The table next to us is occupied by four ladies. There is a friendly, large Lab laying next to one of the ladies.
On the way out, Betty strikes up a conversation with the ladies. The ladies are interested where we are from in the States. The more talkative lady volunteers that she does not like dogs and cannot visit the US because of some youthful indiscretion. Apparently, US immigration do check those things.
It is about 1900 (7 PM) and we are cross the bridge and to our left is an empty, but open train station. We look at the printed schedule on the wall. It appears that all the trains arrive at the same station - Waterloo. I can think of nothing more appropriate way to end a trip to London than a train to Waterloo.
We flash our Oyster Cards at the machine. They work. The train coach is empty. We study the transit maps diligently. We decide that the worst that happens is that we ride to the end of the line and make decisions from there.
More people come on broad. We feel more comfortable. After about twenty minutes, the train leaves and we follow our progress on the overhead map. We are looking for the name of stations we know so we can transfer to the Tube. It is about 20:00 (8 PM) and it is a weekend schedule.
We arrive at Waterloo Station. It is the end of the line. We walk down the platform and follow signs to the Tube. Waterloo Station may be an older and established. The Tube station is both. There are multiple lines at various levels. The newer lines are on lower levels. So we move down the escalators to the District Line.
It is back to the hotel within ten minutes. We process the Oyster Cards and are refunded our deposit and the remainder on the cards. Hey, it worked.
Tomorrow, we check out and to begin the journey home.
Monday, June 13, 2016
"Trying to be as positive as he could about it. He said to me 'I have to tell you, Kate - it was a Harrods bag'".
,We have done an excellent job in checking off our "bucket list" on the trip. There remains one item left. Betty's heritage takes her to a small church and cemetery on the coast of England. Our expectation was to make it a day trip.
During the week, we research and evaluate the trip. After looking at train and bus schedules, our conclusion is that this is a small town and you cannot get there from here. The trip will involve an overnight stay and a degree of luck. The distance is not great, but the trip involves changing trains and catching an infrequent bus schedule.
We decide not to go. Betty suggests that we travel to Hampton Court instead. Sounds good to me.
On Saturday, I take my final long walk. I really enjoy walking. Part of the enjoyment is the exercise. A large part is my continuing education of the complexity and simplicity of the world my fellow humans live it. We are so similar. Languages have not been a problem. A smile and a greeting is universal.
The hotel is in the Kensington/Chelsea area of London. I gather that London is similar to New York and Los Angeles in political and governmental structure. London appears to be made up of small cities within the dome of London.
Kensington/Chelsea is an upscale area. Homes and flats in Notting Hill continue renovations. Kensington is experiencing less. I was surprised on my walk on Wednesday to find a Whole Foods. There was a long check out line at 9;30 AM. The store was similar to the other grocery stores we have experienced in Europe - heavy on prepared foods.. The store also had the Whole Foods food kiosks with wide varieties of very attractive foods.
Today, I walk up Kensington Rd towards Knightbridge Rd. The Knightbridge area is upscale shopping. It is the home of Harrod's. Having been to Harrod's, I go a little further down the street to Harvey Nichols. Harrod's is a temple to consumerism including faux Egyptian temple columns escalators.
Harvey Nichols is just gaudy. You might actually buy something at Harrod's. I walk through the men's section at Harvey Nichols and there is nothing. It is not the prices which are unreasonable. There is nothing attractive. I read later that the department store specializes in food, beauty products and wine.
Further down the street, there is a wedding. The wedding is at the Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary. It is early afternoon, it appears to be a traditional circumstances. The groom and the groomsmen are outside. They are walking around the driveway. Obviously, they are waiting for the bride to arrive. It is a small wedding. There appears to be few guests.
What makes this truly London, the groom and groomsmen are members of the Household Guard. They are in uniform including the 18" bear helmets
There is a statute to the left of the front entry. It is Cardinal John Henry Newman. John Henry Newman was a well known 19th century English prelate. The Cardinal was a member of the Oxford Movement at Oxford.
In high school, I read essays by Cardinal Newman. He was my hero. Cardinal Newman wrote long, paragraph length sentences with an excess of commas and semi-colons. As my idol, I felt free to continue my re-invention of English grammar. Unfortunately, despite well offered comments, my teachers never saw the similarities in style.
The area has even more embassies that I found earlier in the week. I walk as I have often have for the last few days into Kensington Garden. I turn left at Kensington Palace and the path takes me to a street called Kensington Palace Gardens, "the most exclusive address in London". There is the Russian Embassy, India and Saudis. An interesting half mile walk on a tree lined street. The beginning of the street has guards. If you enter from the Kensington Palace direction, there are no guards. In Rome, the embassy were easy to identify - very large soldiers in front. Here, there are an occasional plaque or flag. That is all.
I feel I know my way around Kensington/Notting Hill/Chelsea/Knightbridge/Hyde Park neighborhoods. I do not remember the name of the streets. The names of London streets change frequently and with no obvious logic. Moreover, the same street may go from "Place" to "Rd" to "Court" within a half mile walk.
It is a pleasant walk. It is a comfortable distant. The homes are stoned painted white. I wonder what the area looked like in the early part of the 20th Century when pollution was so dominant. There are stories of deadly fog killing hundreds of London residents. Even now, how often do the owners have to repaint or re-surface these facades.
I cross Cromwell Rd several times before I realize that it is a major road in and out of London. Rush hour is to be experienced to believed. Why people drive in London I have no idea. I think it is conspicuous consumption. I believe I read that a auto owner in London pay a fee to drive their car in London. My guess is based on the fact that I saw few mid size or older autos. I did see a great many Porsche, Mercedes, Range Rovers, Bentleys etc. They were showing off.
Cromwell is six lanes wide. The drivers are slow to stop and eager to accelerate.
We have a very busy Sunday planned. Sunday will be our last full day in London and Europe. We fly out of Heathrow Monday morning. Betty has memories of traveling down the Thames to Hampton Court. It will take some planning since it involves trains and a boat. When you travel as an adventure, it often easy to get there, the adventure is often getting back.
During the week, we research and evaluate the trip. After looking at train and bus schedules, our conclusion is that this is a small town and you cannot get there from here. The trip will involve an overnight stay and a degree of luck. The distance is not great, but the trip involves changing trains and catching an infrequent bus schedule.
We decide not to go. Betty suggests that we travel to Hampton Court instead. Sounds good to me.
On Saturday, I take my final long walk. I really enjoy walking. Part of the enjoyment is the exercise. A large part is my continuing education of the complexity and simplicity of the world my fellow humans live it. We are so similar. Languages have not been a problem. A smile and a greeting is universal.
The hotel is in the Kensington/Chelsea area of London. I gather that London is similar to New York and Los Angeles in political and governmental structure. London appears to be made up of small cities within the dome of London.
Kensington/Chelsea is an upscale area. Homes and flats in Notting Hill continue renovations. Kensington is experiencing less. I was surprised on my walk on Wednesday to find a Whole Foods. There was a long check out line at 9;30 AM. The store was similar to the other grocery stores we have experienced in Europe - heavy on prepared foods.. The store also had the Whole Foods food kiosks with wide varieties of very attractive foods.
Today, I walk up Kensington Rd towards Knightbridge Rd. The Knightbridge area is upscale shopping. It is the home of Harrod's. Having been to Harrod's, I go a little further down the street to Harvey Nichols. Harrod's is a temple to consumerism including faux Egyptian temple columns escalators.
Harvey Nichols is just gaudy. You might actually buy something at Harrod's. I walk through the men's section at Harvey Nichols and there is nothing. It is not the prices which are unreasonable. There is nothing attractive. I read later that the department store specializes in food, beauty products and wine.
Further down the street, there is a wedding. The wedding is at the Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary. It is early afternoon, it appears to be a traditional circumstances. The groom and the groomsmen are outside. They are walking around the driveway. Obviously, they are waiting for the bride to arrive. It is a small wedding. There appears to be few guests.
What makes this truly London, the groom and groomsmen are members of the Household Guard. They are in uniform including the 18" bear helmets
There is a statute to the left of the front entry. It is Cardinal John Henry Newman. John Henry Newman was a well known 19th century English prelate. The Cardinal was a member of the Oxford Movement at Oxford.
In high school, I read essays by Cardinal Newman. He was my hero. Cardinal Newman wrote long, paragraph length sentences with an excess of commas and semi-colons. As my idol, I felt free to continue my re-invention of English grammar. Unfortunately, despite well offered comments, my teachers never saw the similarities in style.
The area has even more embassies that I found earlier in the week. I walk as I have often have for the last few days into Kensington Garden. I turn left at Kensington Palace and the path takes me to a street called Kensington Palace Gardens, "the most exclusive address in London". There is the Russian Embassy, India and Saudis. An interesting half mile walk on a tree lined street. The beginning of the street has guards. If you enter from the Kensington Palace direction, there are no guards. In Rome, the embassy were easy to identify - very large soldiers in front. Here, there are an occasional plaque or flag. That is all.
I feel I know my way around Kensington/Notting Hill/Chelsea/Knightbridge/Hyde Park neighborhoods. I do not remember the name of the streets. The names of London streets change frequently and with no obvious logic. Moreover, the same street may go from "Place" to "Rd" to "Court" within a half mile walk.
It is a pleasant walk. It is a comfortable distant. The homes are stoned painted white. I wonder what the area looked like in the early part of the 20th Century when pollution was so dominant. There are stories of deadly fog killing hundreds of London residents. Even now, how often do the owners have to repaint or re-surface these facades.
I cross Cromwell Rd several times before I realize that it is a major road in and out of London. Rush hour is to be experienced to believed. Why people drive in London I have no idea. I think it is conspicuous consumption. I believe I read that a auto owner in London pay a fee to drive their car in London. My guess is based on the fact that I saw few mid size or older autos. I did see a great many Porsche, Mercedes, Range Rovers, Bentleys etc. They were showing off.
Cromwell is six lanes wide. The drivers are slow to stop and eager to accelerate.
We have a very busy Sunday planned. Sunday will be our last full day in London and Europe. We fly out of Heathrow Monday morning. Betty has memories of traveling down the Thames to Hampton Court. It will take some planning since it involves trains and a boat. When you travel as an adventure, it often easy to get there, the adventure is often getting back.
Tuesday, June 7, 2016
"Probably that you're going to be eaten by a giant marshmallow or something"
The weather is ugly. There is no other description. We woke up this morning hoping for the best. On the way to the hotel last night, there was wind and drizzle. It now is raining. After three weeks in Europe this is our first really bad weather.
It is a "heads down day". You walk with your head leaning forward. There are water spots on your glasses. I cross the street to Starbucks with attention and care to traffic. I am only slightly better at looking at the direction of traffic when stepping off the curb.
I have a new theory. It takes three visit to the same Starbucks at the same time each day for the barista to recognize you. London is a heterogeneous society. This morning I assist two French girls with their order at Starbucks. Now, this is humorous because I do not speak French. I use my Paris Starbucks experience. I recognize a few words. The cashier and the barista deal with multiple languages all day.
Betty and I decide that this is the day to continue our tradition started in Rome. "Let's have lunch at the 'Hard Rock Café'". The London "Café" is the original. We take the Tube to Green Park Station. It is a pouring rain. The station is near Buckingham Palace. We walk by Duke of Wellington's home and museum for the fourth time during our visits to London. The Café is on the edge of Piccadilly and very upscale.
There is something about a steady rain that makes wrong turns painfully. Betty corrects. Within four blocks, we are in front of the Café. There is no line, but there is a few people in front of us. The process is guided by a gentleman whose look and attitude fits the 1971 opening day of the Hard Rock.
"It will only be a few minutes".
"American?"
He has that London international tone to his speech. He wears a Hard Rock leather bike jacket. Very Cool. Parents with two children arrive a few minutes later.
"Quanto dura l'attesta?"
"Venti minuti."
The weather is turning even nastier. This is not the spring shower forecasted.
The door open and the waitress ask if we have a preference for a table - front or rear of the restaurant. We volunteer "either". The table is next to the bar area which is great.
The waiter is very experienced. Restaurants should learn that staff makes all the difference. Our waiter is pleasant and conversational. He projects that he cares about our experience. This is very much our experience in Rome. We had a great waitress. We feel at home at Hard Rock. The feeling is that these are friends we have yet to meet.
While the rainy afternoon continues, a long lunch is ideal. Betty orders a Margarita. To order a mixed drink - particularly, a frozen drink - in Europe is risky at best. Betty orders the special order which includes the glass. The glass is large and the drink is tasty. We do not take the glasses.
The food is definitely American which, at one time, was probably the exception in Europe. Now, the gourmet cheeseburger rules.
As with Rome, the customers are a mixture of tourist and locals. It is 16:00 (4 PM) and the restaurant is no longer full but the tables are starting to fill up again. The rain has let up. Betty and I are full and happy. The feeling is not quite like Rome or Siena where I felt at home. But, I am definitely enjoying the city.
The Hotel television is the best we have had on this trip. It is a 26" flat screen. There is cable. We were slow to learn to use the menu. But, now, we have about thirty four stations. As with the USA cable, most of the channels have nothing to offer.
Also, the shows are reruns. I had high expectations that we would see new episodes of our favorite BBC or ITV series. The program is an odd mixture of local travel shows, US TV and British reruns of the same shows we watch in US.
We are beginning to understand how tired we are. It has been a long twenty five days.
It is a "heads down day". You walk with your head leaning forward. There are water spots on your glasses. I cross the street to Starbucks with attention and care to traffic. I am only slightly better at looking at the direction of traffic when stepping off the curb.
I have a new theory. It takes three visit to the same Starbucks at the same time each day for the barista to recognize you. London is a heterogeneous society. This morning I assist two French girls with their order at Starbucks. Now, this is humorous because I do not speak French. I use my Paris Starbucks experience. I recognize a few words. The cashier and the barista deal with multiple languages all day.
Betty and I decide that this is the day to continue our tradition started in Rome. "Let's have lunch at the 'Hard Rock Café'". The London "Café" is the original. We take the Tube to Green Park Station. It is a pouring rain. The station is near Buckingham Palace. We walk by Duke of Wellington's home and museum for the fourth time during our visits to London. The Café is on the edge of Piccadilly and very upscale.
There is something about a steady rain that makes wrong turns painfully. Betty corrects. Within four blocks, we are in front of the Café. There is no line, but there is a few people in front of us. The process is guided by a gentleman whose look and attitude fits the 1971 opening day of the Hard Rock.
"It will only be a few minutes".
"American?"
He has that London international tone to his speech. He wears a Hard Rock leather bike jacket. Very Cool. Parents with two children arrive a few minutes later.
"Quanto dura l'attesta?"
"Venti minuti."
The weather is turning even nastier. This is not the spring shower forecasted.
The door open and the waitress ask if we have a preference for a table - front or rear of the restaurant. We volunteer "either". The table is next to the bar area which is great.
The waiter is very experienced. Restaurants should learn that staff makes all the difference. Our waiter is pleasant and conversational. He projects that he cares about our experience. This is very much our experience in Rome. We had a great waitress. We feel at home at Hard Rock. The feeling is that these are friends we have yet to meet.While the rainy afternoon continues, a long lunch is ideal. Betty orders a Margarita. To order a mixed drink - particularly, a frozen drink - in Europe is risky at best. Betty orders the special order which includes the glass. The glass is large and the drink is tasty. We do not take the glasses.
The food is definitely American which, at one time, was probably the exception in Europe. Now, the gourmet cheeseburger rules.
As with Rome, the customers are a mixture of tourist and locals. It is 16:00 (4 PM) and the restaurant is no longer full but the tables are starting to fill up again. The rain has let up. Betty and I are full and happy. The feeling is not quite like Rome or Siena where I felt at home. But, I am definitely enjoying the city.
The Hotel television is the best we have had on this trip. It is a 26" flat screen. There is cable. We were slow to learn to use the menu. But, now, we have about thirty four stations. As with the USA cable, most of the channels have nothing to offer.
Also, the shows are reruns. I had high expectations that we would see new episodes of our favorite BBC or ITV series. The program is an odd mixture of local travel shows, US TV and British reruns of the same shows we watch in US.
We are beginning to understand how tired we are. It has been a long twenty five days.
Monday, June 6, 2016
"...what the Inklings is meant to have said when Tolkien started reading them 'Lord of the Rings'. They said "Not more flipping elves"
We take the Tube to the Paddington Train Station. Our Oyster Card takes us to the Station, but we have to purchase train tickets. The British train system was privatized in 1997. A round trip to Oxford is about $60 per person and an hour long trip.
We meet a gentleman who advises Betty that Cambridge would have been a better trip. We think he is a Cambridge professor. Our trip is in part to see more of England and a large part because we are huge fans of the mystery series - Inspector Morse and Inspector Lewis. We have watched these series for decades.
Obviously, Oxford holds an academic aura. It will be fun to say at parties "I went to Oxford'.
The land around Oxford is wet with small streams and ponds. Oxford is close to the source of the River Thames near Devonshire. The Thames and the Thame merge above Oxford in an area referred to as "Thame-Isis".
There is no exact date for the founding of the University. Teaching may have occurred as early as 1096 and likely was religious oriented. The early teachers were Franciscans. After Henry II banned English students from attending University of Paris, the University grew rapidly.
In 1209, hostilities broke out between students and town peoples. An accident which resulted in the death of a town woman caused three innocent students to be hung. Apparently, this was the beginning of the universal dislike of locals for college students.
When we arrive at the small train station, we decide to do something we have talked about many times and never done. Every city has "on/off bus tours". In general, it is a recommended method to orientate yourself to new city. The buses are double decker. It is a competitive business.
And it makes sense. If you have limited time to view a city, the bus is great. We have about seven hours to experience Oxford. Betty negotiates and the cost is a lot less than major cities.
The bus is outside. We board the bus and the taped tour begins. The weather is changing but it is still comfortable outside. We ride the bus into the town. After about four stops, we exit at High and Queen Streets. We are hungry and have been told to try "The Covered Market".
The Covered Market is a odd mixture of stores and eateries. It is an old building (1774) and surprisingly large. It is not a farmer's market. It is a mixture of small stores. I am guessing a large store is 150 square feet. Some of the businesses have been there for decades. The businesses include jewelry store, butcher shop, produce and a few restaurants.
We chose Brown's. No Yelp. We are hungry and there are tables. Brown's is famous. Popular with locals, students, professors and tourist. It is a family place. You find your own table and receive menus. You walk up to the register to order your meals. It is a family business. You can tell that it is family. Brown's is run by a Portugese family. I am fairly confident that the lady at the register is the mother.
The food is comfort food. The soup was great. The order is brought to your table. Everyone is friendly. The family with two children next to us enjoys. There is a steady stream of customers.
We shop briefly after lunch. It is very cool place. We walk up Market Street looking for Oxford. It is not easy to feed "The University". As opposed to the United States, where there is the school and then everything else. Oxford University is a loose collections of colleges spread throughout the city.
We find a number of "Authorized" Oxford University stores. I buy a cap and Betty purchased an illustrated book about "Inspector Morse's Oxford". I did say we are big fans.
Wonderful things happen when you do walk abouts. We walk pass an old church built with the solid yellow stone of Oxford. We turn left into a large courtyard and discover the Radcliffe Camera (camera is Italian for "room"). It is an academic library built in 1749. You can view the neo-classical round building, but you must be a student to enter.
Through a passageway, we are in a open grass courtyard that is surrounded by the buildings that include the Bodleian Library, the second largest library in the United Kingdom next to the British Library. Uniquely an independent reference library, the collections is impressive. The range includes Mexican, early Greek New Testament manuscript, copies of the Magna Carta, the Song of Roland, Shakespeare's first folio and Middle English manuscript called The Vernon Manuscript.
Very much a working library, there are no tours. But, there is a Gift Shop.
We see the Bridge of Sighs. It is turning cloudy and the wind is chilly. On the "bucket list" is an English pub and, specifically, an Oxford pub (there goes that Inspector Morse/Lewis thing again). At the end of the passageways and on the corner is Youngs King's Arms Pub. The building and the Pub date to 1607. We stop for a pint. I have a pint and Betty had a half pint. The bitters was very good. It was cool not cold and the taste was a little ale.
A memory that last forever, we are outside on benches drinking a pint and looking at the Sheldonian Theatre. A still active theatre built in 1669 by Christopher Wren.
It is getting late and we begin looking for a "on/off bus stop" in order to see the remainder of Oxford. We discover a great bookstore, Blackwell's. The front of the store hides an enormous bookstore. of course, we investigate.
About 16:00 (4 PM), we jump on the bus. We climb to the top deck. It is getting cold. It is the end of the good weather. We tour Oxford. The architecture changes greatly. There is concrete next to Clipsham stone (the yellow stone common throughout the UK) buildings. Tucked in parking next to fourteen foot double doors. There is a park which closes one day a year in order to remain private.
We finish the bus tour. It has started to drizzle. Since we picked up the bus about half of the way through the tour, we decided to go around one more time. The whole tour is about forty minutes long. It is late and with the weather change, the bus does not stop often which speeds up things
There is The Eagle and Child pub where C.S. Lewis, J.R.R. Tolkien and other literary luminaries of the early 20th century met. There is the house of Charles Lutwidge (Lewis Carroll). There is the little shop that inspired the Old Sheep Shop. There is the Great Hall at Christ Church which has a window dedicated to Alice Liddell ( the Alice in Looking Glass). The Great Hall also is now famous for Harry Potter.
At 17:30 we again pull into the train station. Coffee and a sweet refresh us. The next train to Paddington is at 18:00. We step onto the platform. It is very crowded. We start to think about the next train. Paddington Station is the end of the line - so all trains arrive in Paddington.
Everyone - experienced commuters included - crowd to the middle coaches. We rush to the last coaches. We yell at the conductor to hold the door. The coach has plenty of seats and we settle in for the hour plus ride home. We are on savings time so sundown is after 19:00. It is still dark by the time we arrive to the hotel. Dinner from Waitrose tonight.
We meet a gentleman who advises Betty that Cambridge would have been a better trip. We think he is a Cambridge professor. Our trip is in part to see more of England and a large part because we are huge fans of the mystery series - Inspector Morse and Inspector Lewis. We have watched these series for decades.
Obviously, Oxford holds an academic aura. It will be fun to say at parties "I went to Oxford'.
The land around Oxford is wet with small streams and ponds. Oxford is close to the source of the River Thames near Devonshire. The Thames and the Thame merge above Oxford in an area referred to as "Thame-Isis".
There is no exact date for the founding of the University. Teaching may have occurred as early as 1096 and likely was religious oriented. The early teachers were Franciscans. After Henry II banned English students from attending University of Paris, the University grew rapidly.
In 1209, hostilities broke out between students and town peoples. An accident which resulted in the death of a town woman caused three innocent students to be hung. Apparently, this was the beginning of the universal dislike of locals for college students.When we arrive at the small train station, we decide to do something we have talked about many times and never done. Every city has "on/off bus tours". In general, it is a recommended method to orientate yourself to new city. The buses are double decker. It is a competitive business.
And it makes sense. If you have limited time to view a city, the bus is great. We have about seven hours to experience Oxford. Betty negotiates and the cost is a lot less than major cities.
The bus is outside. We board the bus and the taped tour begins. The weather is changing but it is still comfortable outside. We ride the bus into the town. After about four stops, we exit at High and Queen Streets. We are hungry and have been told to try "The Covered Market". The Covered Market is a odd mixture of stores and eateries. It is an old building (1774) and surprisingly large. It is not a farmer's market. It is a mixture of small stores. I am guessing a large store is 150 square feet. Some of the businesses have been there for decades. The businesses include jewelry store, butcher shop, produce and a few restaurants.
We chose Brown's. No Yelp. We are hungry and there are tables. Brown's is famous. Popular with locals, students, professors and tourist. It is a family place. You find your own table and receive menus. You walk up to the register to order your meals. It is a family business. You can tell that it is family. Brown's is run by a Portugese family. I am fairly confident that the lady at the register is the mother.
The food is comfort food. The soup was great. The order is brought to your table. Everyone is friendly. The family with two children next to us enjoys. There is a steady stream of customers.
We shop briefly after lunch. It is very cool place. We walk up Market Street looking for Oxford. It is not easy to feed "The University". As opposed to the United States, where there is the school and then everything else. Oxford University is a loose collections of colleges spread throughout the city.
We find a number of "Authorized" Oxford University stores. I buy a cap and Betty purchased an illustrated book about "Inspector Morse's Oxford". I did say we are big fans.
Wonderful things happen when you do walk abouts. We walk pass an old church built with the solid yellow stone of Oxford. We turn left into a large courtyard and discover the Radcliffe Camera (camera is Italian for "room"). It is an academic library built in 1749. You can view the neo-classical round building, but you must be a student to enter.Through a passageway, we are in a open grass courtyard that is surrounded by the buildings that include the Bodleian Library, the second largest library in the United Kingdom next to the British Library. Uniquely an independent reference library, the collections is impressive. The range includes Mexican, early Greek New Testament manuscript, copies of the Magna Carta, the Song of Roland, Shakespeare's first folio and Middle English manuscript called The Vernon Manuscript.
Very much a working library, there are no tours. But, there is a Gift Shop.
We see the Bridge of Sighs. It is turning cloudy and the wind is chilly. On the "bucket list" is an English pub and, specifically, an Oxford pub (there goes that Inspector Morse/Lewis thing again). At the end of the passageways and on the corner is Youngs King's Arms Pub. The building and the Pub date to 1607. We stop for a pint. I have a pint and Betty had a half pint. The bitters was very good. It was cool not cold and the taste was a little ale.A memory that last forever, we are outside on benches drinking a pint and looking at the Sheldonian Theatre. A still active theatre built in 1669 by Christopher Wren.
It is getting late and we begin looking for a "on/off bus stop" in order to see the remainder of Oxford. We discover a great bookstore, Blackwell's. The front of the store hides an enormous bookstore. of course, we investigate.
About 16:00 (4 PM), we jump on the bus. We climb to the top deck. It is getting cold. It is the end of the good weather. We tour Oxford. The architecture changes greatly. There is concrete next to Clipsham stone (the yellow stone common throughout the UK) buildings. Tucked in parking next to fourteen foot double doors. There is a park which closes one day a year in order to remain private.
We finish the bus tour. It has started to drizzle. Since we picked up the bus about half of the way through the tour, we decided to go around one more time. The whole tour is about forty minutes long. It is late and with the weather change, the bus does not stop often which speeds up things
There is The Eagle and Child pub where C.S. Lewis, J.R.R. Tolkien and other literary luminaries of the early 20th century met. There is the house of Charles Lutwidge (Lewis Carroll). There is the little shop that inspired the Old Sheep Shop. There is the Great Hall at Christ Church which has a window dedicated to Alice Liddell ( the Alice in Looking Glass). The Great Hall also is now famous for Harry Potter.
At 17:30 we again pull into the train station. Coffee and a sweet refresh us. The next train to Paddington is at 18:00. We step onto the platform. It is very crowded. We start to think about the next train. Paddington Station is the end of the line - so all trains arrive in Paddington.
Everyone - experienced commuters included - crowd to the middle coaches. We rush to the last coaches. We yell at the conductor to hold the door. The coach has plenty of seats and we settle in for the hour plus ride home. We are on savings time so sundown is after 19:00. It is still dark by the time we arrive to the hotel. Dinner from Waitrose tonight.
Saturday, June 4, 2016
"It's a sad fact of modern life that if you drive long enough, sooner or later you must leave London behind"
The weather holds.
It is sunny and mild. In the sun, it is comfortable. It has been a very late spring in London. When we arrived on April 2nd, the trees were just budding. Now two weeks later the majority of trees are barely in leaf.
It is great to cruise the Thames River. With the kids, we had taken a City Cruise to arrive at the Tower of London. Betty and I are now traveling to Greenwich. Betty visited Greenwich on her first trip as we travel memories are retrieved and comparisons made.
We no longer have The London Pass. There are apparently a great many ways to travel the Thames River. We find that the most common method is integrated into the London Transportation system. The Oyster Card works.
We take the Circle Line to the Embankment Station. A wrong turn on my part. A correction by Betty. A hazardous crossing of a street and we are at the docks. It is remarkable simple. Betty speaks to the attendant and confirms the boat we need to take. We flash our Oyster Cards.
The boat is similar to the previous. It is a local so we stop often which is actually enjoyable. It is a commuter boat. We pass under the Tower Bridge. We stop at the Canary Wharf dock which the heart of the new "hip" - upscale area of London. The river is now converted warehouse and docks with restaurants and shops. There are small yachting clubs. The rivop er widens. It is difficult to imagine the river as dirty, busy highway for the riches of the empire.
The outlines and the bones are still there in names. Docks were devoted to the goods the goods they stored.
As the river spreads, the shores become more open. As we reach Greenwich, you understand the importance of the Thames river to London and to the Empire. Greenwich is the crossroads for ships. Over the town of Greenwich a hill dominates the river. It has to be the highest point on the river. At the top of this steep hill (this is my second climb in two days and I admit I stop to catch my breath) is the Greenwich Observatory and the Greenwich Line.
Greenwich is east of London. It was the royal residence of the Tudors. It was a convenient and in kingly comfort from the Tudor Castle - The Tower of London. The Palace was the birthplace of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. As with all things London, the Palace was rebuilt as the Royal Navy Hospital by Christopher Wren. The buildings became the Royal Naval College and continued as such until 1998.
At the docking, we flash our Oyster Card to exit. We pass the sitting Cutty Sark to the entrance of the National Maritime Museum. I did check and "sitting" is the correct term for a late 19th century schooner now on ground so you can walk around it and pay $20 for the opportunity to walk the decks. We pass.
Once inside, we have to increase the amount on our Oyster Cards. Oyster Cards are like your Starbucks application and takes credit cards. Transportation in the United Kingdom is expensive. It is refundable. You do not want to loss your Oyster Card, especially, if it has a large balance.
The Royal Navy Museum is exactly what a good museum should be - small, direct and brief. What is great is that they have a beer garden and my experience with "clotted cream". It is one of those foods that you will search for the rest of your life.
I order a coffee and scone. For 60 pence (about a $1.00) if I wanted cream and jam. Scones can be dry so I agree. "Clotted cream" is also referred to as "Devonshire Cream". Later, I looked it up. It is a thick cream. You spread on the scone like butter and top with jam. You do not want to stop eating. You want to run about the room asking "try this, it is the food of the gods".
We walk up the street following the other tourist. When in doubt, follow the flow. We are looking for the Royal Observatory. We follow for three blocks and to the a large park. We pass the National Maritime Museum and Queen Ann's Palace which is reportedly the inspiration for the design of the American White House (you can see it).
I should have realized that you put an Observatory on top of a hill. But, I did not. Betty does and she volunteers to guard my seat on a park bench. She has been to the Observatory. It was built in 1899 so not much has changed.
I walk across the park towards the base of the spiral trail that leads to the top. I am confident. Just yesterday, I climbed to top of St. Paul's Cathedral. The hill won. I have to stop just short of the top. It is a steep wide trail. As you climb the view becomes more and more impressive. People have stopped along the road to take photos. Other tourists are on the grass just looking. Some are seating. Most are taking selfies.
The Observatory and the Prime Meridian are in a remarkable small building. Today, the Prime Meridian is an oddity on our smart phones. The solution by Englishman, John Harrison, solved the largest navigation problem - "where am I?'.
Since ancient times, sailors could determine their Latitude (north/south location). But, to navigate accurately, they needed a method to determine their east/west location. The eventual solution was the marine chronometer (yep, there is a whole room of chronometers). The Prime Meridian is an artificial equator now used throughout the world for ships, clocks and GPS to determine your locations.
I pass up the opportunity to see the Prime Meridian and the Observatory. Betty is waiting and the entrance fee is about $25.
The park bench is safe. Betty and I decide to visit the National Maritime Museum. Again, it is not large. Initially, you are not impressed. But, as you wonder the exhibits you become interested. It is when you find the second floor and the exhibits for the West Indies Company and the Slave Trade.
Both are extremely honest looks at the evil of enslavement and greed. I am sure that a student of the period would critique the exhibits more. With my limited knowledge, I found that the exhibitors tried to be honest about this very ugly reason for the wealth of the Empire.
The day is over. Literally they close the doors after us. I do not buy many souvenirs. I like objects that I will use and remind of the experience and location. Here, I buy a 2016-2017 University of Greenwich Calendar Book. I will use as a desk notebook.
We disembark at the Embankment (I had to write that) and take the Tube back to the Hotel. We are getting proficient at the Tube. I really starting to enjoy the location of the hotel and the area around the station is great.
Tomorrow, we go to Oxford.
It is sunny and mild. In the sun, it is comfortable. It has been a very late spring in London. When we arrived on April 2nd, the trees were just budding. Now two weeks later the majority of trees are barely in leaf.
It is great to cruise the Thames River. With the kids, we had taken a City Cruise to arrive at the Tower of London. Betty and I are now traveling to Greenwich. Betty visited Greenwich on her first trip as we travel memories are retrieved and comparisons made.
We no longer have The London Pass. There are apparently a great many ways to travel the Thames River. We find that the most common method is integrated into the London Transportation system. The Oyster Card works.
We take the Circle Line to the Embankment Station. A wrong turn on my part. A correction by Betty. A hazardous crossing of a street and we are at the docks. It is remarkable simple. Betty speaks to the attendant and confirms the boat we need to take. We flash our Oyster Cards.
The boat is similar to the previous. It is a local so we stop often which is actually enjoyable. It is a commuter boat. We pass under the Tower Bridge. We stop at the Canary Wharf dock which the heart of the new "hip" - upscale area of London. The river is now converted warehouse and docks with restaurants and shops. There are small yachting clubs. The rivop er widens. It is difficult to imagine the river as dirty, busy highway for the riches of the empire.The outlines and the bones are still there in names. Docks were devoted to the goods the goods they stored.
As the river spreads, the shores become more open. As we reach Greenwich, you understand the importance of the Thames river to London and to the Empire. Greenwich is the crossroads for ships. Over the town of Greenwich a hill dominates the river. It has to be the highest point on the river. At the top of this steep hill (this is my second climb in two days and I admit I stop to catch my breath) is the Greenwich Observatory and the Greenwich Line.
Greenwich is east of London. It was the royal residence of the Tudors. It was a convenient and in kingly comfort from the Tudor Castle - The Tower of London. The Palace was the birthplace of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. As with all things London, the Palace was rebuilt as the Royal Navy Hospital by Christopher Wren. The buildings became the Royal Naval College and continued as such until 1998.
At the docking, we flash our Oyster Card to exit. We pass the sitting Cutty Sark to the entrance of the National Maritime Museum. I did check and "sitting" is the correct term for a late 19th century schooner now on ground so you can walk around it and pay $20 for the opportunity to walk the decks. We pass.
Once inside, we have to increase the amount on our Oyster Cards. Oyster Cards are like your Starbucks application and takes credit cards. Transportation in the United Kingdom is expensive. It is refundable. You do not want to loss your Oyster Card, especially, if it has a large balance.
The Royal Navy Museum is exactly what a good museum should be - small, direct and brief. What is great is that they have a beer garden and my experience with "clotted cream". It is one of those foods that you will search for the rest of your life.I order a coffee and scone. For 60 pence (about a $1.00) if I wanted cream and jam. Scones can be dry so I agree. "Clotted cream" is also referred to as "Devonshire Cream". Later, I looked it up. It is a thick cream. You spread on the scone like butter and top with jam. You do not want to stop eating. You want to run about the room asking "try this, it is the food of the gods".
I should have realized that you put an Observatory on top of a hill. But, I did not. Betty does and she volunteers to guard my seat on a park bench. She has been to the Observatory. It was built in 1899 so not much has changed.I walk across the park towards the base of the spiral trail that leads to the top. I am confident. Just yesterday, I climbed to top of St. Paul's Cathedral. The hill won. I have to stop just short of the top. It is a steep wide trail. As you climb the view becomes more and more impressive. People have stopped along the road to take photos. Other tourists are on the grass just looking. Some are seating. Most are taking selfies.
The Observatory and the Prime Meridian are in a remarkable small building. Today, the Prime Meridian is an oddity on our smart phones. The solution by Englishman, John Harrison, solved the largest navigation problem - "where am I?'.Since ancient times, sailors could determine their Latitude (north/south location). But, to navigate accurately, they needed a method to determine their east/west location. The eventual solution was the marine chronometer (yep, there is a whole room of chronometers). The Prime Meridian is an artificial equator now used throughout the world for ships, clocks and GPS to determine your locations.
I pass up the opportunity to see the Prime Meridian and the Observatory. Betty is waiting and the entrance fee is about $25.
The park bench is safe. Betty and I decide to visit the National Maritime Museum. Again, it is not large. Initially, you are not impressed. But, as you wonder the exhibits you become interested. It is when you find the second floor and the exhibits for the West Indies Company and the Slave Trade.
Both are extremely honest looks at the evil of enslavement and greed. I am sure that a student of the period would critique the exhibits more. With my limited knowledge, I found that the exhibitors tried to be honest about this very ugly reason for the wealth of the Empire.
The day is over. Literally they close the doors after us. I do not buy many souvenirs. I like objects that I will use and remind of the experience and location. Here, I buy a 2016-2017 University of Greenwich Calendar Book. I will use as a desk notebook.
We disembark at the Embankment (I had to write that) and take the Tube back to the Hotel. We are getting proficient at the Tube. I really starting to enjoy the location of the hotel and the area around the station is great.
Tomorrow, we go to Oxford.
Friday, June 3, 2016
"The secret of architectual excellence is to translate the proporations of a dachshund into bricks, mortar and marble"
Travel is fun and educational. We like our approach to travel. At times, it is hectic. We do miss things that a tour or planned itinerary would assure.
The singular advantage to us is that it is our successes and failures that make for great memories. In brief moments of time, we live in that country. This occurs most often when riding public transportation. You feel out of place for a short time. Then you realize that locals study the Metro maps in the stations as often as you. It is human nature to want a degree of confidence for reaching your destination.
In the cities, we have visited we have never had a problem. Rush hour is Rush hour. The trains are standing room only. People push. People are polite and impolite. You wait for a less crowded train.
In London, commuters read newspapers or books on phones. Games are popular. You could be anywhere but you are in London, Paris, Rome, Milan. If they cared, the commuters know that you are a visitor, a tourist and a foreigner. What they do not know is that you are also on an adventure.
My great moments are when in Rome and Siena I am asked in Italian for directions. At the Louvre, Betty was twice asked by tourists in guidebook French for directions to the toilet.
On our way from Paris to London, I hold a conversation in French with a gentleman about the rudeness of the lady in front of us. He speaks. I listen and respond with a laugh, a shrug or a nod. I know what he is talking about.
In Siena, while grocery shopping, I get into a discussion with a man about the greatness and follies of women in Italian. The conversation is well beyond my limited vocabulary.
Yes, we miss a few of the great sites. Often, we are not certain what we are looking at. I am happy.
Today is Wednesday in London. Betty and I take the Tube to St. Paul's Cathedral. It is remarkably short trip. The problem with maps is that it difficult to truly estimate distance and time.
The weather is great. It is sunny. The chill has subsided. St. Paul is on my bucket list of sights in London. I think my interest goes back to Saturday afternoons with nothing to do and watching travel shows. When does the desire to travel begin? Saturday afternoons on a cold, wet spring day in the Midwest watching television.
St Paul Cathedral is an impressive structure. During our trip, Betty remembers certain places she visited years ago and it helps. Betty did not visit St Paul's so we are a little apprehensive of what to expect.
There is no crowd. A short line, we purchase our tickets and our self guided tour devices. Christopher Wren built London. Christopher Wren loved churches. Therefore, London has a lot of Churches.
St Paul's Cathedral is his masterpiece. One of the reasons I wanted to see St Paul is the dome. It does not disappoint. I did not climb the dome in Florence. I will climb Wren's dome.
The climb is in three stages. The first is about 259 steps to the inner ring of the dome. You are about thirty five feet from the floor in the Whispering Gallery. This is the most common area for people to climb to the stairway is fairly broad and circular. Not an easy climb, but not difficult. The gallery is famous for auditory quirk - you can whisper facing the wall and a person on the other side can hear the whisper.
If you do not enjoy heights and narrow walking around a ninety foot fall to a marble floor. Sit for a minute. Rest and walk down.
If you are adventurous, climb to the Stone Gallery. You will be 173 feet from that soft landing on the marble floor. The climb is another 120 steps. This time the stairway is narrow and a twisting spiral.
There is an outside catwalk around the dome. The view is fantastic today. The view is blue sky and a few clouds. Even with a slight breeze at 173 feet, it is windy and I do not like heights. As you lean over the fence which is about chest high, you visualize losing your grip on the cell phone while taking that once in a lifetime photo.
Courage. There is one more to climb. The Golden Gallery is the smallest of the galleries and runs around the outside of the dome. You are 280 feet above London. You climb 160 steps. The stairway is metal nd very narrow. You cannot fall. But, the possibility does flash before you.
An advantage of this climb is that you see the bones of the dome. Layers of red brick have been laid ever so slightly with a lean inwards. It is impressive and in an industrial artistic way - beautiful. It is marvelous.
The view is more breath taking. It is a 360 degree view of London. As with the view from the Eiffel Tower, you understand the grandness and size of these cities. You also understand that you are looking various cities within a cities. As a tourist, you see and travel so much, but it is the "tourist" area. It is the historical section. Same is true with all travel. Visit Chicago and stay downtown. You will feel that you have been to Chicago. But, you miss the neighborhoods which are the identity of the city - even now.
I circled the catwalk quickly. Betty is in the church waiting for me. She is the smart one.
As I walk around the Cathedral, I find a marble edifice to General Cornwallis. I note that the English like the French never lost a battle. They just did not win. There is no mention of his surrender at Yorktown. Apparently, Cornwallis was quite the guy in India.
Like Westminster Abbey, the floor space of the Cathedral is occupied by these marble remembrances to generals, admirals and armies. The basement of the Cathedral has its own collection of burial tombs. John Donne, Christopher Wren, Horatio Nelson and Duke of Wellington are in the basement.
As I met Betty to leave the choir is practicing. The stairs in front of the Cathedral are full of young people. It is a beautiful afternoon to meet your friends. The front of the Cathedral is definitely Baroque.
After a coffee, we are on the hunt for the "Old Bailey" of English justice. We find the street and we find a building. It does not look anything like Betty remembers. Forty years ago, Betty traveled England, France and Spain by herself. In England, she attended a trial with the white wigs and dockets. Why not, again.
Unfortunately, we find out later that there are trials here and it is the "Old Bailey", but not the court she attended. As we walk around the area, several police cars pull up and efficiently block the street at both ends of the block.
These are not bobbies. Actually, I can only remember seeing a few "bobbie" in the two weeks in England. We saw police. The majority of the police were armed. They were very well armed.
The view is more breath taking. It is a 360 degree view of London. As with the view from the Eiffel Tower, you understand the grandness and size of these cities. You also understand that you are looking various cities within a cities. As a tourist, you see and travel so much, but it is the "tourist" area. It is the historical section. Same is true with all travel. Visit Chicago and stay downtown. You will feel that you have been to Chicago. But, you miss the neighborhoods which are the identity of the city - even now.
It is rush hour. We use public transportation a great deal so the Tube will be crowded. We stop at Jamie's Wine Bar for a glass of wine. In Italy, we often stopped for a drink at the end of the day. In London, the weather has curtailed that enjoyment.
There are two small groups in the bar. It is early. One group appears to be attorneys who are doing a post mortem on that day's activities. The other group is two older men impressing their two younger female subordinates with their importance. The women seem to be impressed. The women are working very hard to be impressed. All four press their agenda with alcohol as the grease and the excuse. It will be long night.
We finish our glasses of wine. We find the station. Traffic is intense. And, there are bicycles riders. Their skill and courage is mind blowing. The underground is crowded. People still stop and check the signs. With experience, Betty and I move quickly. It is simple. Know where you want to go. For us, it is the District or Circle Lines. As long as we are on the right platform - the right direction - we will get home.
We stop at the Waitrose Supermarket next the Gloucester Station. English grocery stores are the same as you experience in Europe. The stores are efficient. Selection is specific. Quantity is adequate. The stores rely heavily on prepared foods. There is not a lot of produce and meats. Those are purchased at specific "old fashioned" green grocery and butcher. As in Paris, the food is tasty, if somewhat uniform.
I go for the curry dish which is in a very large flat pan. It is vegetable. Definitely, it is a curry dish. I would try something different next time. But, for carry back to the hotel room for dinner on the bed watching television, it is great. I am in London. It was a beautiful day. I am very lucky.
Tomorrow, Greenwich.
If you do not enjoy heights and narrow walking around a ninety foot fall to a marble floor. Sit for a minute. Rest and walk down.
If you are adventurous, climb to the Stone Gallery. You will be 173 feet from that soft landing on the marble floor. The climb is another 120 steps. This time the stairway is narrow and a twisting spiral.
There is an outside catwalk around the dome. The view is fantastic today. The view is blue sky and a few clouds. Even with a slight breeze at 173 feet, it is windy and I do not like heights. As you lean over the fence which is about chest high, you visualize losing your grip on the cell phone while taking that once in a lifetime photo.
Courage. There is one more to climb. The Golden Gallery is the smallest of the galleries and runs around the outside of the dome. You are 280 feet above London. You climb 160 steps. The stairway is metal nd very narrow. You cannot fall. But, the possibility does flash before you.
An advantage of this climb is that you see the bones of the dome. Layers of red brick have been laid ever so slightly with a lean inwards. It is impressive and in an industrial artistic way - beautiful. It is marvelous.
The view is more breath taking. It is a 360 degree view of London. As with the view from the Eiffel Tower, you understand the grandness and size of these cities. You also understand that you are looking various cities within a cities. As a tourist, you see and travel so much, but it is the "tourist" area. It is the historical section. Same is true with all travel. Visit Chicago and stay downtown. You will feel that you have been to Chicago. But, you miss the neighborhoods which are the identity of the city - even now.I circled the catwalk quickly. Betty is in the church waiting for me. She is the smart one.
As I walk around the Cathedral, I find a marble edifice to General Cornwallis. I note that the English like the French never lost a battle. They just did not win. There is no mention of his surrender at Yorktown. Apparently, Cornwallis was quite the guy in India.
Like Westminster Abbey, the floor space of the Cathedral is occupied by these marble remembrances to generals, admirals and armies. The basement of the Cathedral has its own collection of burial tombs. John Donne, Christopher Wren, Horatio Nelson and Duke of Wellington are in the basement.
As I met Betty to leave the choir is practicing. The stairs in front of the Cathedral are full of young people. It is a beautiful afternoon to meet your friends. The front of the Cathedral is definitely Baroque.
After a coffee, we are on the hunt for the "Old Bailey" of English justice. We find the street and we find a building. It does not look anything like Betty remembers. Forty years ago, Betty traveled England, France and Spain by herself. In England, she attended a trial with the white wigs and dockets. Why not, again.
Unfortunately, we find out later that there are trials here and it is the "Old Bailey", but not the court she attended. As we walk around the area, several police cars pull up and efficiently block the street at both ends of the block.
These are not bobbies. Actually, I can only remember seeing a few "bobbie" in the two weeks in England. We saw police. The majority of the police were armed. They were very well armed.
The view is more breath taking. It is a 360 degree view of London. As with the view from the Eiffel Tower, you understand the grandness and size of these cities. You also understand that you are looking various cities within a cities. As a tourist, you see and travel so much, but it is the "tourist" area. It is the historical section. Same is true with all travel. Visit Chicago and stay downtown. You will feel that you have been to Chicago. But, you miss the neighborhoods which are the identity of the city - even now.
It is rush hour. We use public transportation a great deal so the Tube will be crowded. We stop at Jamie's Wine Bar for a glass of wine. In Italy, we often stopped for a drink at the end of the day. In London, the weather has curtailed that enjoyment.
There are two small groups in the bar. It is early. One group appears to be attorneys who are doing a post mortem on that day's activities. The other group is two older men impressing their two younger female subordinates with their importance. The women seem to be impressed. The women are working very hard to be impressed. All four press their agenda with alcohol as the grease and the excuse. It will be long night.
We finish our glasses of wine. We find the station. Traffic is intense. And, there are bicycles riders. Their skill and courage is mind blowing. The underground is crowded. People still stop and check the signs. With experience, Betty and I move quickly. It is simple. Know where you want to go. For us, it is the District or Circle Lines. As long as we are on the right platform - the right direction - we will get home.
We stop at the Waitrose Supermarket next the Gloucester Station. English grocery stores are the same as you experience in Europe. The stores are efficient. Selection is specific. Quantity is adequate. The stores rely heavily on prepared foods. There is not a lot of produce and meats. Those are purchased at specific "old fashioned" green grocery and butcher. As in Paris, the food is tasty, if somewhat uniform.
I go for the curry dish which is in a very large flat pan. It is vegetable. Definitely, it is a curry dish. I would try something different next time. But, for carry back to the hotel room for dinner on the bed watching television, it is great. I am in London. It was a beautiful day. I am very lucky.
Tomorrow, Greenwich.
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