We are going home.
After twenty five days of adventure, we really want to go home. We have had a great time. We are flying out of Heathrow. We are concerned about the time it will take to move through ticketing, security and to gate.
We have heard stories about Heathrow crowds and delays. Heathrow is one of the busiest airports in the world. We need to start early. I settle the hotel bill. Betty discusses with a cab driver out front of the hotel. Again, we find that it is metered. It will be about fifty pounds.
It is about a fifty minute ride to Heathrow. Fortunately for us, our trip is counter-commute. It is about 0900 (9 AM). We arrive a little before 10:00. Terminal 4 is not crowded. We find the Delta ticket desk and check our carry on luggage. We are on the way home and the luggage is safe - nothing but dirty clothes. We have a four hour layover in Minneapolis, MN and a full flight home. We will take our chances with the luggage for the convenience of not dragging even a small piece of luggage through two airports.
Terminal 4 is efficient and almost pleasant. After checking in, you quickly pass through security. You do need to remove your shoes or belt. Passports are checked again. We now have two hours to kill. We find a coffee shop. It is crowded. We find a table and I go up to order. One issue with today's air travel is that you sit a lot and you eat a lot. The longer the flight, the more this is a problem. I can see why intoxication is a problem with passengers.
I am hoping that it is a large, newer plane. It is not. Delta must have one of the oldest international fleets crossing the Atlantic.
Our international flight will be over eleven hours if there are no delays. When compared to Air France on service and quality of the plane, Delta is painful. We are fortunate. The videos and the drinks are free.
We are moving with the sun. When flying to Europe, the advantage is that you pass through day/night. It is easier to sleep (nap) and your body clock resets itself quickly. When flying with the sun, it is like you are proving Einstein theory of "time travel" and the speed of light. You take off at 11:30 and land at 1400 (2:00 PM). Your body has traveled for eleven hours in a narrow tube and you are half a day older.
We will be traveling from the hotel to our house over twenty five hours. We will be sitting in airports for approximately eight hours. We will be on airplanes for fifteen hours. We will be driving about two hours.
We arrive in Minneapolis with no delays. We have Global Entry cards. It is the greatest travel advantage you can purchase. With the Pass, you walk up to the kiosk at the entry of customs. No lines. You place your card in the machine. You scan your passport. They check your fingerprints. The machine prints out your approval. It takes about two minutes. The line takes 30-40 minutes.
We pick up our two checked carry on bags. We do not need to pass through customs. We deposit our luggage for the flight home and enter security and fast tracked.
The Minneapolis International Terminal is very nice. There is shopping and the food court has a lot of options. We go for diet cokes and potato chips.
My theory is that if you have a two hours between connections, something bad will happen and you will be stressed. Four hour layover, you will have time to sit and be bored. This airport has cable monitors and WIFI. It also has the most important accessory of the 21st century - lots of charging stations.
The plane home is as promised full. I finally nap for about two hours. When I wake up, we have only about thirty minutes before landing.
We arrive home about midnight. We are both up by 6 AM and actually feel reasonably well.
Next - Portugal and Spain in the fall of 2017.
Thursday, June 23, 2016
Wednesday, June 22, 2016
Men's evil manners live in brass; their virtues we write in water"
It is our last full day in England. It is Sunday mid-morning. Betty has the travel plan. We will take the District Line to the end of the District Line, Richmond. We will then take a boat up the Thames to Hampton Court.
On Betty's first visit to England, she had traveled up river from London. Our boat trip will be shorter.
The weather has improved. The rain has stopped and the sun shines through the clouds. We add monies to our Oyster Cards. After Greenwich and Oxford, we are not certain if the balance is adequate for the return trip.
Richmond is a bedroom community to London. It is crowded on this Sunday. After two days of poor weather, people want to enjoy the sunshine. Richmond has a great deal going for it. On the Thames and within a commute of London, I am sure that this is an attractive place to live.
We have no real idea where the river is or where the tourist boat docks may be. Betty takes the lead. We turn left from the station. I am hungry. Food is more on my mind than locating the river. We hesitate at an intersection. We follow the first rule of being a tourists. "When it doubt, follow the crowd". It works and there is the Thames.
Both sides of the river have wide paved walks. It is almost noon and people are strolling the banks of the river. There is another "Youngs Brewery". We have no plans. So first, we need to find a tourist boat and then find out if the boat stops and when. It is not as easy as we thought. We walk about a quarter of a mile.
Betty spots the ticket office. It is a small frame structure. Not anything like the ticket offices we have experienced in Greenwich and the Embankment. The attendant is a young woman with her husband, father and daughter on the boat dock. It is very casual affair.
"When is the next boat to Hampton Court?.
"One O'clock"
It is about noon. We buy tickets. It is lunch time. It is short walk to a deli just up the hill. We order at the counter. Food is delivered to the table. The food is good. I definitely notice that the prices are less than London.
The boat arrives about forty-five minutes late. It is a smaller, older boat. The boat has been delayed by the river lock system. Apparently, the river is crowded down river.
On the water, the wind intensifies the cold air. We stay inside. The windows are old and are glazed from water. It is difficult to see out clearly.
Betty remembers from her last visit that the banks of the river are lined with stately homes and estates. We are attentive. The husband of the ticket lady has told us that the estates are up river and we should see shortly after starting.
He was wrong. Both sides of the river are lined with walking paths and trees. The walking paths are well used by the locals. The British like to stroll and it is a pleasant afternoon (except on the water).
There are homes and small boat docks both private and clubs. There are few bridges. It is very much a rural setting.
We approach the Teddington Lock. I have never been on a boat going through a lock. It is very interesting to watch the machinery at work. With all the traffic on the river, it still is one boat at a time.
After a thirty five minute ride, we pull up to the Hampton Court dock. We check the schedule for the ride back. It is Sunday so the weekend schedule may be an issue. It looks like 1700 (5 PM) is the last boat back to Richmond. Just in case, we develop a second plan. There is a train station across the bridge from the castle.
There is a fascination with the Tudors. This is particularly true of Henry VIII, A Nation creates their heroes. The British Museums and Galleries ignore Cromwell and the Commonwealth. Justly so, when a nation is proud of your present monarchy as a tourist attraction, it is not a good idea to mention that your Parliament beheaded their king.
What I find interesting is that there is not a lot of gloating about Elizabeth I and the Elizabethan Period (other than Shakespeare and Oxford's hero Sir Francis Bacon). They do like Henry VIII.
Hampton Court defines Henry VIII. It is a castle envisioned by a TV event. The castle was built by Cardinal Wosley; confiscated by Henry (Henry was not into "sharing") and redesigned by Christopher Wren for William of Orange and Queen Mary. I am always impressed that the English throne has been a "hot potato" and how short some of the dynasties have been.
The castle is definitely tourist friendly. The castle is separated into two sections. There is the original Tudor which includes the Great Hall (the last great medieval hall). At times during Henry's reign as many as 8,000 people would be attendance while he held court.
A highlight of the tour is the extensive kitchen. The heat and the labor in those rooms would have been intensive. Three meals for royalty, aristocrats, retainers and the household staff was a 24 hour effort. The amount of food and wine consumed was truly huge.
We did not get a opportunity to view the Chapel. We did see the bedrooms including Ann Boleyn.
As I walk through this portion of the castle, I wonder why Henry's motivations are not analyzed more. The image of a rotund man (well over 400 lbs at his death)who was obsessive and self indulgent. Henry murdered his wives and betrayed and killed friends.
The young Henry was tall and handsome. He excelled in Royal Tennis, riding and was physical active. Henry also gained the throne due to the sudden death of his older brother, Henry. His father was tyrannical who gained the throne through a civil war (War of the Roses). Why would we think that Henry would be anything other than insecure, paranoid, violent, self indulgent, envious and fearful of death.
In his marriage to Catherine of Aragon, Henry was truly in love. The marriage lasted nearly 24 years.
We often misunderstand that political intrigue and murder were common to the of monarchies of Europe and, for that matter, the rest of history and world. One of the advantages of democracy is that it allows for bloodless transition of governments. One of the great surprises of American History is that Washington peacefully accepted the election of John Adams.
The English monarchies had been in conflict with the Pope for decades. The Roman church was controlled by the princes of France and Hapsburg Empire. The clerics of England were governed by the Pope and Canon Law. Wealth was concentrated in the Church. Henry was very envious of the wealth and military prowess of Francis I of France. The throne of England was the trophy most sought may the kings of Spain and France.
Henry was running out of money, He has no reason to trust his nobles and his advisers. But, why the weight gain? He shared his predicament with all the monarchies of Europe. Just a thought, why the tremendous weight.
When you complete the Tudor tour, you walk to the other side of Hampton Court. I climb stairs and tour the section of the castle that is Baroque. The British definitely have a conflicted attitude with all things French. It is historical. Henry VIII had a city of gold built on the shores of England for the visit of Francis I. William of Orange and Queen Mary initiated a Wren design that resembled Versailles. They demolished half the castle including the staterooms of Henry VIII.
We stop at the coffee shop in the kitchen area. We still have the gardens to view. I am interested in viewing the Real Tennis Court that dates to Henry VIII. In his youth, Henry reportedly excelled at the game.
I am surprised that the game is still played. There is a national team. As I enter there is a coach working with a player. The game has some resemblance to Lawn Tennis. The inside court is approximately the size of a tennis court. The racquet is similar. One difference is that the ball is bounced off the back and side walls.
I watch for about ten minutes. Since they are practicing, I do not gain any insight into play or strategy. It is definitely a gentleman sport. At the practice, no sweats or warmups. It is white shirt, white shorts and white shoes.
The castle closes at 17:00 (5 PM) and we are cutting it close. Betty had decided to walk the gardens while I went to the Real Tennis. I walk out the front gate looking for a place to sit. I then realize that Betty may be looking for me within the castle. But, Betty knows me well and she is only slightly behind me.
We decide that we will take the train back. We are informed that there are trains back to London every hour. We decide to have an early dinner.
Throughout our travels, we have seen Pubs with "Swan" somewhere in the signage. The "Mute Swan" is across the road from Hampton Court and across the bridge from the train station.
I have to mention that when we travel we take risk. The maps and the locals say the train station is across the bridge and that there are trains to London running on this Sunday evening. We do not know where in London. Will our Oyster Card work? Can we buy a ticket? Will the Tube be running when we get there?
So we have dinner. The "Mute Swan" is more a restaurant than a Pub. We are seated quickly. Again, the young man understands the first and only rule of service - make the customer comfortable.
We order a bottle of Spanish red wine. It has been a great deal. As we start to review all we have accomplished, the wine taste great. That warm friendly feeling engulfs us.
We order dinner. Betty goes for a traditional "pie". It is her last chance for awhile and based upon the other dinners, there is a good chance it will be authentic. I have a small steak sandwich.
The food is very good. The ambience is exceptional. There are a few tourists. But the majority are locals. The table next to us is occupied by four ladies. There is a friendly, large Lab laying next to one of the ladies.
On the way out, Betty strikes up a conversation with the ladies. The ladies are interested where we are from in the States. The more talkative lady volunteers that she does not like dogs and cannot visit the US because of some youthful indiscretion. Apparently, US immigration do check those things.
It is about 1900 (7 PM) and we are cross the bridge and to our left is an empty, but open train station. We look at the printed schedule on the wall. It appears that all the trains arrive at the same station - Waterloo. I can think of nothing more appropriate way to end a trip to London than a train to Waterloo.
We flash our Oyster Cards at the machine. They work. The train coach is empty. We study the transit maps diligently. We decide that the worst that happens is that we ride to the end of the line and make decisions from there.
More people come on broad. We feel more comfortable. After about twenty minutes, the train leaves and we follow our progress on the overhead map. We are looking for the name of stations we know so we can transfer to the Tube. It is about 20:00 (8 PM) and it is a weekend schedule.
We arrive at Waterloo Station. It is the end of the line. We walk down the platform and follow signs to the Tube. Waterloo Station may be an older and established. The Tube station is both. There are multiple lines at various levels. The newer lines are on lower levels. So we move down the escalators to the District Line.
It is back to the hotel within ten minutes. We process the Oyster Cards and are refunded our deposit and the remainder on the cards. Hey, it worked.
Tomorrow, we check out and to begin the journey home.
On Betty's first visit to England, she had traveled up river from London. Our boat trip will be shorter.
The weather has improved. The rain has stopped and the sun shines through the clouds. We add monies to our Oyster Cards. After Greenwich and Oxford, we are not certain if the balance is adequate for the return trip.
Richmond is a bedroom community to London. It is crowded on this Sunday. After two days of poor weather, people want to enjoy the sunshine. Richmond has a great deal going for it. On the Thames and within a commute of London, I am sure that this is an attractive place to live.
We have no real idea where the river is or where the tourist boat docks may be. Betty takes the lead. We turn left from the station. I am hungry. Food is more on my mind than locating the river. We hesitate at an intersection. We follow the first rule of being a tourists. "When it doubt, follow the crowd". It works and there is the Thames.
Both sides of the river have wide paved walks. It is almost noon and people are strolling the banks of the river. There is another "Youngs Brewery". We have no plans. So first, we need to find a tourist boat and then find out if the boat stops and when. It is not as easy as we thought. We walk about a quarter of a mile.
Betty spots the ticket office. It is a small frame structure. Not anything like the ticket offices we have experienced in Greenwich and the Embankment. The attendant is a young woman with her husband, father and daughter on the boat dock. It is very casual affair.
"When is the next boat to Hampton Court?.
"One O'clock"
It is about noon. We buy tickets. It is lunch time. It is short walk to a deli just up the hill. We order at the counter. Food is delivered to the table. The food is good. I definitely notice that the prices are less than London.
The boat arrives about forty-five minutes late. It is a smaller, older boat. The boat has been delayed by the river lock system. Apparently, the river is crowded down river.
On the water, the wind intensifies the cold air. We stay inside. The windows are old and are glazed from water. It is difficult to see out clearly.
Betty remembers from her last visit that the banks of the river are lined with stately homes and estates. We are attentive. The husband of the ticket lady has told us that the estates are up river and we should see shortly after starting.
He was wrong. Both sides of the river are lined with walking paths and trees. The walking paths are well used by the locals. The British like to stroll and it is a pleasant afternoon (except on the water).
There are homes and small boat docks both private and clubs. There are few bridges. It is very much a rural setting.
We approach the Teddington Lock. I have never been on a boat going through a lock. It is very interesting to watch the machinery at work. With all the traffic on the river, it still is one boat at a time.
After a thirty five minute ride, we pull up to the Hampton Court dock. We check the schedule for the ride back. It is Sunday so the weekend schedule may be an issue. It looks like 1700 (5 PM) is the last boat back to Richmond. Just in case, we develop a second plan. There is a train station across the bridge from the castle.
There is a fascination with the Tudors. This is particularly true of Henry VIII, A Nation creates their heroes. The British Museums and Galleries ignore Cromwell and the Commonwealth. Justly so, when a nation is proud of your present monarchy as a tourist attraction, it is not a good idea to mention that your Parliament beheaded their king.
What I find interesting is that there is not a lot of gloating about Elizabeth I and the Elizabethan Period (other than Shakespeare and Oxford's hero Sir Francis Bacon). They do like Henry VIII.
Hampton Court defines Henry VIII. It is a castle envisioned by a TV event. The castle was built by Cardinal Wosley; confiscated by Henry (Henry was not into "sharing") and redesigned by Christopher Wren for William of Orange and Queen Mary. I am always impressed that the English throne has been a "hot potato" and how short some of the dynasties have been.
The castle is definitely tourist friendly. The castle is separated into two sections. There is the original Tudor which includes the Great Hall (the last great medieval hall). At times during Henry's reign as many as 8,000 people would be attendance while he held court.
A highlight of the tour is the extensive kitchen. The heat and the labor in those rooms would have been intensive. Three meals for royalty, aristocrats, retainers and the household staff was a 24 hour effort. The amount of food and wine consumed was truly huge.
We did not get a opportunity to view the Chapel. We did see the bedrooms including Ann Boleyn.
As I walk through this portion of the castle, I wonder why Henry's motivations are not analyzed more. The image of a rotund man (well over 400 lbs at his death)who was obsessive and self indulgent. Henry murdered his wives and betrayed and killed friends.
The young Henry was tall and handsome. He excelled in Royal Tennis, riding and was physical active. Henry also gained the throne due to the sudden death of his older brother, Henry. His father was tyrannical who gained the throne through a civil war (War of the Roses). Why would we think that Henry would be anything other than insecure, paranoid, violent, self indulgent, envious and fearful of death.
In his marriage to Catherine of Aragon, Henry was truly in love. The marriage lasted nearly 24 years.
We often misunderstand that political intrigue and murder were common to the of monarchies of Europe and, for that matter, the rest of history and world. One of the advantages of democracy is that it allows for bloodless transition of governments. One of the great surprises of American History is that Washington peacefully accepted the election of John Adams.
The English monarchies had been in conflict with the Pope for decades. The Roman church was controlled by the princes of France and Hapsburg Empire. The clerics of England were governed by the Pope and Canon Law. Wealth was concentrated in the Church. Henry was very envious of the wealth and military prowess of Francis I of France. The throne of England was the trophy most sought may the kings of Spain and France.
Henry was running out of money, He has no reason to trust his nobles and his advisers. But, why the weight gain? He shared his predicament with all the monarchies of Europe. Just a thought, why the tremendous weight.
When you complete the Tudor tour, you walk to the other side of Hampton Court. I climb stairs and tour the section of the castle that is Baroque. The British definitely have a conflicted attitude with all things French. It is historical. Henry VIII had a city of gold built on the shores of England for the visit of Francis I. William of Orange and Queen Mary initiated a Wren design that resembled Versailles. They demolished half the castle including the staterooms of Henry VIII.
We stop at the coffee shop in the kitchen area. We still have the gardens to view. I am interested in viewing the Real Tennis Court that dates to Henry VIII. In his youth, Henry reportedly excelled at the game.
I am surprised that the game is still played. There is a national team. As I enter there is a coach working with a player. The game has some resemblance to Lawn Tennis. The inside court is approximately the size of a tennis court. The racquet is similar. One difference is that the ball is bounced off the back and side walls.
I watch for about ten minutes. Since they are practicing, I do not gain any insight into play or strategy. It is definitely a gentleman sport. At the practice, no sweats or warmups. It is white shirt, white shorts and white shoes.
The castle closes at 17:00 (5 PM) and we are cutting it close. Betty had decided to walk the gardens while I went to the Real Tennis. I walk out the front gate looking for a place to sit. I then realize that Betty may be looking for me within the castle. But, Betty knows me well and she is only slightly behind me.
We decide that we will take the train back. We are informed that there are trains back to London every hour. We decide to have an early dinner.
Throughout our travels, we have seen Pubs with "Swan" somewhere in the signage. The "Mute Swan" is across the road from Hampton Court and across the bridge from the train station.
I have to mention that when we travel we take risk. The maps and the locals say the train station is across the bridge and that there are trains to London running on this Sunday evening. We do not know where in London. Will our Oyster Card work? Can we buy a ticket? Will the Tube be running when we get there?
So we have dinner. The "Mute Swan" is more a restaurant than a Pub. We are seated quickly. Again, the young man understands the first and only rule of service - make the customer comfortable.
We order a bottle of Spanish red wine. It has been a great deal. As we start to review all we have accomplished, the wine taste great. That warm friendly feeling engulfs us.
We order dinner. Betty goes for a traditional "pie". It is her last chance for awhile and based upon the other dinners, there is a good chance it will be authentic. I have a small steak sandwich.
The food is very good. The ambience is exceptional. There are a few tourists. But the majority are locals. The table next to us is occupied by four ladies. There is a friendly, large Lab laying next to one of the ladies.
On the way out, Betty strikes up a conversation with the ladies. The ladies are interested where we are from in the States. The more talkative lady volunteers that she does not like dogs and cannot visit the US because of some youthful indiscretion. Apparently, US immigration do check those things.
It is about 1900 (7 PM) and we are cross the bridge and to our left is an empty, but open train station. We look at the printed schedule on the wall. It appears that all the trains arrive at the same station - Waterloo. I can think of nothing more appropriate way to end a trip to London than a train to Waterloo.
We flash our Oyster Cards at the machine. They work. The train coach is empty. We study the transit maps diligently. We decide that the worst that happens is that we ride to the end of the line and make decisions from there.
More people come on broad. We feel more comfortable. After about twenty minutes, the train leaves and we follow our progress on the overhead map. We are looking for the name of stations we know so we can transfer to the Tube. It is about 20:00 (8 PM) and it is a weekend schedule.
We arrive at Waterloo Station. It is the end of the line. We walk down the platform and follow signs to the Tube. Waterloo Station may be an older and established. The Tube station is both. There are multiple lines at various levels. The newer lines are on lower levels. So we move down the escalators to the District Line.
It is back to the hotel within ten minutes. We process the Oyster Cards and are refunded our deposit and the remainder on the cards. Hey, it worked.
Tomorrow, we check out and to begin the journey home.
Monday, June 13, 2016
"Trying to be as positive as he could about it. He said to me 'I have to tell you, Kate - it was a Harrods bag'".
,We have done an excellent job in checking off our "bucket list" on the trip. There remains one item left. Betty's heritage takes her to a small church and cemetery on the coast of England. Our expectation was to make it a day trip.
During the week, we research and evaluate the trip. After looking at train and bus schedules, our conclusion is that this is a small town and you cannot get there from here. The trip will involve an overnight stay and a degree of luck. The distance is not great, but the trip involves changing trains and catching an infrequent bus schedule.
We decide not to go. Betty suggests that we travel to Hampton Court instead. Sounds good to me.
On Saturday, I take my final long walk. I really enjoy walking. Part of the enjoyment is the exercise. A large part is my continuing education of the complexity and simplicity of the world my fellow humans live it. We are so similar. Languages have not been a problem. A smile and a greeting is universal.
The hotel is in the Kensington/Chelsea area of London. I gather that London is similar to New York and Los Angeles in political and governmental structure. London appears to be made up of small cities within the dome of London.
Kensington/Chelsea is an upscale area. Homes and flats in Notting Hill continue renovations. Kensington is experiencing less. I was surprised on my walk on Wednesday to find a Whole Foods. There was a long check out line at 9;30 AM. The store was similar to the other grocery stores we have experienced in Europe - heavy on prepared foods.. The store also had the Whole Foods food kiosks with wide varieties of very attractive foods.
Today, I walk up Kensington Rd towards Knightbridge Rd. The Knightbridge area is upscale shopping. It is the home of Harrod's. Having been to Harrod's, I go a little further down the street to Harvey Nichols. Harrod's is a temple to consumerism including faux Egyptian temple columns escalators.
Harvey Nichols is just gaudy. You might actually buy something at Harrod's. I walk through the men's section at Harvey Nichols and there is nothing. It is not the prices which are unreasonable. There is nothing attractive. I read later that the department store specializes in food, beauty products and wine.
Further down the street, there is a wedding. The wedding is at the Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary. It is early afternoon, it appears to be a traditional circumstances. The groom and the groomsmen are outside. They are walking around the driveway. Obviously, they are waiting for the bride to arrive. It is a small wedding. There appears to be few guests.
What makes this truly London, the groom and groomsmen are members of the Household Guard. They are in uniform including the 18" bear helmets
There is a statute to the left of the front entry. It is Cardinal John Henry Newman. John Henry Newman was a well known 19th century English prelate. The Cardinal was a member of the Oxford Movement at Oxford.
In high school, I read essays by Cardinal Newman. He was my hero. Cardinal Newman wrote long, paragraph length sentences with an excess of commas and semi-colons. As my idol, I felt free to continue my re-invention of English grammar. Unfortunately, despite well offered comments, my teachers never saw the similarities in style.
The area has even more embassies that I found earlier in the week. I walk as I have often have for the last few days into Kensington Garden. I turn left at Kensington Palace and the path takes me to a street called Kensington Palace Gardens, "the most exclusive address in London". There is the Russian Embassy, India and Saudis. An interesting half mile walk on a tree lined street. The beginning of the street has guards. If you enter from the Kensington Palace direction, there are no guards. In Rome, the embassy were easy to identify - very large soldiers in front. Here, there are an occasional plaque or flag. That is all.
I feel I know my way around Kensington/Notting Hill/Chelsea/Knightbridge/Hyde Park neighborhoods. I do not remember the name of the streets. The names of London streets change frequently and with no obvious logic. Moreover, the same street may go from "Place" to "Rd" to "Court" within a half mile walk.
It is a pleasant walk. It is a comfortable distant. The homes are stoned painted white. I wonder what the area looked like in the early part of the 20th Century when pollution was so dominant. There are stories of deadly fog killing hundreds of London residents. Even now, how often do the owners have to repaint or re-surface these facades.
I cross Cromwell Rd several times before I realize that it is a major road in and out of London. Rush hour is to be experienced to believed. Why people drive in London I have no idea. I think it is conspicuous consumption. I believe I read that a auto owner in London pay a fee to drive their car in London. My guess is based on the fact that I saw few mid size or older autos. I did see a great many Porsche, Mercedes, Range Rovers, Bentleys etc. They were showing off.
Cromwell is six lanes wide. The drivers are slow to stop and eager to accelerate.
We have a very busy Sunday planned. Sunday will be our last full day in London and Europe. We fly out of Heathrow Monday morning. Betty has memories of traveling down the Thames to Hampton Court. It will take some planning since it involves trains and a boat. When you travel as an adventure, it often easy to get there, the adventure is often getting back.
During the week, we research and evaluate the trip. After looking at train and bus schedules, our conclusion is that this is a small town and you cannot get there from here. The trip will involve an overnight stay and a degree of luck. The distance is not great, but the trip involves changing trains and catching an infrequent bus schedule.
We decide not to go. Betty suggests that we travel to Hampton Court instead. Sounds good to me.
On Saturday, I take my final long walk. I really enjoy walking. Part of the enjoyment is the exercise. A large part is my continuing education of the complexity and simplicity of the world my fellow humans live it. We are so similar. Languages have not been a problem. A smile and a greeting is universal.
The hotel is in the Kensington/Chelsea area of London. I gather that London is similar to New York and Los Angeles in political and governmental structure. London appears to be made up of small cities within the dome of London.
Kensington/Chelsea is an upscale area. Homes and flats in Notting Hill continue renovations. Kensington is experiencing less. I was surprised on my walk on Wednesday to find a Whole Foods. There was a long check out line at 9;30 AM. The store was similar to the other grocery stores we have experienced in Europe - heavy on prepared foods.. The store also had the Whole Foods food kiosks with wide varieties of very attractive foods.
Today, I walk up Kensington Rd towards Knightbridge Rd. The Knightbridge area is upscale shopping. It is the home of Harrod's. Having been to Harrod's, I go a little further down the street to Harvey Nichols. Harrod's is a temple to consumerism including faux Egyptian temple columns escalators.
Harvey Nichols is just gaudy. You might actually buy something at Harrod's. I walk through the men's section at Harvey Nichols and there is nothing. It is not the prices which are unreasonable. There is nothing attractive. I read later that the department store specializes in food, beauty products and wine.
Further down the street, there is a wedding. The wedding is at the Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary. It is early afternoon, it appears to be a traditional circumstances. The groom and the groomsmen are outside. They are walking around the driveway. Obviously, they are waiting for the bride to arrive. It is a small wedding. There appears to be few guests.
What makes this truly London, the groom and groomsmen are members of the Household Guard. They are in uniform including the 18" bear helmets
There is a statute to the left of the front entry. It is Cardinal John Henry Newman. John Henry Newman was a well known 19th century English prelate. The Cardinal was a member of the Oxford Movement at Oxford.
In high school, I read essays by Cardinal Newman. He was my hero. Cardinal Newman wrote long, paragraph length sentences with an excess of commas and semi-colons. As my idol, I felt free to continue my re-invention of English grammar. Unfortunately, despite well offered comments, my teachers never saw the similarities in style.
The area has even more embassies that I found earlier in the week. I walk as I have often have for the last few days into Kensington Garden. I turn left at Kensington Palace and the path takes me to a street called Kensington Palace Gardens, "the most exclusive address in London". There is the Russian Embassy, India and Saudis. An interesting half mile walk on a tree lined street. The beginning of the street has guards. If you enter from the Kensington Palace direction, there are no guards. In Rome, the embassy were easy to identify - very large soldiers in front. Here, there are an occasional plaque or flag. That is all.
I feel I know my way around Kensington/Notting Hill/Chelsea/Knightbridge/Hyde Park neighborhoods. I do not remember the name of the streets. The names of London streets change frequently and with no obvious logic. Moreover, the same street may go from "Place" to "Rd" to "Court" within a half mile walk.
It is a pleasant walk. It is a comfortable distant. The homes are stoned painted white. I wonder what the area looked like in the early part of the 20th Century when pollution was so dominant. There are stories of deadly fog killing hundreds of London residents. Even now, how often do the owners have to repaint or re-surface these facades.
I cross Cromwell Rd several times before I realize that it is a major road in and out of London. Rush hour is to be experienced to believed. Why people drive in London I have no idea. I think it is conspicuous consumption. I believe I read that a auto owner in London pay a fee to drive their car in London. My guess is based on the fact that I saw few mid size or older autos. I did see a great many Porsche, Mercedes, Range Rovers, Bentleys etc. They were showing off.
Cromwell is six lanes wide. The drivers are slow to stop and eager to accelerate.
We have a very busy Sunday planned. Sunday will be our last full day in London and Europe. We fly out of Heathrow Monday morning. Betty has memories of traveling down the Thames to Hampton Court. It will take some planning since it involves trains and a boat. When you travel as an adventure, it often easy to get there, the adventure is often getting back.
Tuesday, June 7, 2016
"Probably that you're going to be eaten by a giant marshmallow or something"
The weather is ugly. There is no other description. We woke up this morning hoping for the best. On the way to the hotel last night, there was wind and drizzle. It now is raining. After three weeks in Europe this is our first really bad weather.
It is a "heads down day". You walk with your head leaning forward. There are water spots on your glasses. I cross the street to Starbucks with attention and care to traffic. I am only slightly better at looking at the direction of traffic when stepping off the curb.
I have a new theory. It takes three visit to the same Starbucks at the same time each day for the barista to recognize you. London is a heterogeneous society. This morning I assist two French girls with their order at Starbucks. Now, this is humorous because I do not speak French. I use my Paris Starbucks experience. I recognize a few words. The cashier and the barista deal with multiple languages all day.
Betty and I decide that this is the day to continue our tradition started in Rome. "Let's have lunch at the 'Hard Rock Café'". The London "Café" is the original. We take the Tube to Green Park Station. It is a pouring rain. The station is near Buckingham Palace. We walk by Duke of Wellington's home and museum for the fourth time during our visits to London. The Café is on the edge of Piccadilly and very upscale.
There is something about a steady rain that makes wrong turns painfully. Betty corrects. Within four blocks, we are in front of the Café. There is no line, but there is a few people in front of us. The process is guided by a gentleman whose look and attitude fits the 1971 opening day of the Hard Rock.
"It will only be a few minutes".
"American?"
He has that London international tone to his speech. He wears a Hard Rock leather bike jacket. Very Cool. Parents with two children arrive a few minutes later.
"Quanto dura l'attesta?"
"Venti minuti."
The weather is turning even nastier. This is not the spring shower forecasted.
The door open and the waitress ask if we have a preference for a table - front or rear of the restaurant. We volunteer "either". The table is next to the bar area which is great.
The waiter is very experienced. Restaurants should learn that staff makes all the difference. Our waiter is pleasant and conversational. He projects that he cares about our experience. This is very much our experience in Rome. We had a great waitress. We feel at home at Hard Rock. The feeling is that these are friends we have yet to meet.
While the rainy afternoon continues, a long lunch is ideal. Betty orders a Margarita. To order a mixed drink - particularly, a frozen drink - in Europe is risky at best. Betty orders the special order which includes the glass. The glass is large and the drink is tasty. We do not take the glasses.
The food is definitely American which, at one time, was probably the exception in Europe. Now, the gourmet cheeseburger rules.
As with Rome, the customers are a mixture of tourist and locals. It is 16:00 (4 PM) and the restaurant is no longer full but the tables are starting to fill up again. The rain has let up. Betty and I are full and happy. The feeling is not quite like Rome or Siena where I felt at home. But, I am definitely enjoying the city.
The Hotel television is the best we have had on this trip. It is a 26" flat screen. There is cable. We were slow to learn to use the menu. But, now, we have about thirty four stations. As with the USA cable, most of the channels have nothing to offer.
Also, the shows are reruns. I had high expectations that we would see new episodes of our favorite BBC or ITV series. The program is an odd mixture of local travel shows, US TV and British reruns of the same shows we watch in US.
We are beginning to understand how tired we are. It has been a long twenty five days.
It is a "heads down day". You walk with your head leaning forward. There are water spots on your glasses. I cross the street to Starbucks with attention and care to traffic. I am only slightly better at looking at the direction of traffic when stepping off the curb.
I have a new theory. It takes three visit to the same Starbucks at the same time each day for the barista to recognize you. London is a heterogeneous society. This morning I assist two French girls with their order at Starbucks. Now, this is humorous because I do not speak French. I use my Paris Starbucks experience. I recognize a few words. The cashier and the barista deal with multiple languages all day.
Betty and I decide that this is the day to continue our tradition started in Rome. "Let's have lunch at the 'Hard Rock Café'". The London "Café" is the original. We take the Tube to Green Park Station. It is a pouring rain. The station is near Buckingham Palace. We walk by Duke of Wellington's home and museum for the fourth time during our visits to London. The Café is on the edge of Piccadilly and very upscale.
There is something about a steady rain that makes wrong turns painfully. Betty corrects. Within four blocks, we are in front of the Café. There is no line, but there is a few people in front of us. The process is guided by a gentleman whose look and attitude fits the 1971 opening day of the Hard Rock.
"It will only be a few minutes".
"American?"
He has that London international tone to his speech. He wears a Hard Rock leather bike jacket. Very Cool. Parents with two children arrive a few minutes later.
"Quanto dura l'attesta?"
"Venti minuti."
The weather is turning even nastier. This is not the spring shower forecasted.
The door open and the waitress ask if we have a preference for a table - front or rear of the restaurant. We volunteer "either". The table is next to the bar area which is great.
The waiter is very experienced. Restaurants should learn that staff makes all the difference. Our waiter is pleasant and conversational. He projects that he cares about our experience. This is very much our experience in Rome. We had a great waitress. We feel at home at Hard Rock. The feeling is that these are friends we have yet to meet.While the rainy afternoon continues, a long lunch is ideal. Betty orders a Margarita. To order a mixed drink - particularly, a frozen drink - in Europe is risky at best. Betty orders the special order which includes the glass. The glass is large and the drink is tasty. We do not take the glasses.
The food is definitely American which, at one time, was probably the exception in Europe. Now, the gourmet cheeseburger rules.
As with Rome, the customers are a mixture of tourist and locals. It is 16:00 (4 PM) and the restaurant is no longer full but the tables are starting to fill up again. The rain has let up. Betty and I are full and happy. The feeling is not quite like Rome or Siena where I felt at home. But, I am definitely enjoying the city.
The Hotel television is the best we have had on this trip. It is a 26" flat screen. There is cable. We were slow to learn to use the menu. But, now, we have about thirty four stations. As with the USA cable, most of the channels have nothing to offer.
Also, the shows are reruns. I had high expectations that we would see new episodes of our favorite BBC or ITV series. The program is an odd mixture of local travel shows, US TV and British reruns of the same shows we watch in US.
We are beginning to understand how tired we are. It has been a long twenty five days.
Monday, June 6, 2016
"...what the Inklings is meant to have said when Tolkien started reading them 'Lord of the Rings'. They said "Not more flipping elves"
We take the Tube to the Paddington Train Station. Our Oyster Card takes us to the Station, but we have to purchase train tickets. The British train system was privatized in 1997. A round trip to Oxford is about $60 per person and an hour long trip.
We meet a gentleman who advises Betty that Cambridge would have been a better trip. We think he is a Cambridge professor. Our trip is in part to see more of England and a large part because we are huge fans of the mystery series - Inspector Morse and Inspector Lewis. We have watched these series for decades.
Obviously, Oxford holds an academic aura. It will be fun to say at parties "I went to Oxford'.
The land around Oxford is wet with small streams and ponds. Oxford is close to the source of the River Thames near Devonshire. The Thames and the Thame merge above Oxford in an area referred to as "Thame-Isis".
There is no exact date for the founding of the University. Teaching may have occurred as early as 1096 and likely was religious oriented. The early teachers were Franciscans. After Henry II banned English students from attending University of Paris, the University grew rapidly.
In 1209, hostilities broke out between students and town peoples. An accident which resulted in the death of a town woman caused three innocent students to be hung. Apparently, this was the beginning of the universal dislike of locals for college students.
When we arrive at the small train station, we decide to do something we have talked about many times and never done. Every city has "on/off bus tours". In general, it is a recommended method to orientate yourself to new city. The buses are double decker. It is a competitive business.
And it makes sense. If you have limited time to view a city, the bus is great. We have about seven hours to experience Oxford. Betty negotiates and the cost is a lot less than major cities.
The bus is outside. We board the bus and the taped tour begins. The weather is changing but it is still comfortable outside. We ride the bus into the town. After about four stops, we exit at High and Queen Streets. We are hungry and have been told to try "The Covered Market".
The Covered Market is a odd mixture of stores and eateries. It is an old building (1774) and surprisingly large. It is not a farmer's market. It is a mixture of small stores. I am guessing a large store is 150 square feet. Some of the businesses have been there for decades. The businesses include jewelry store, butcher shop, produce and a few restaurants.
We chose Brown's. No Yelp. We are hungry and there are tables. Brown's is famous. Popular with locals, students, professors and tourist. It is a family place. You find your own table and receive menus. You walk up to the register to order your meals. It is a family business. You can tell that it is family. Brown's is run by a Portugese family. I am fairly confident that the lady at the register is the mother.
The food is comfort food. The soup was great. The order is brought to your table. Everyone is friendly. The family with two children next to us enjoys. There is a steady stream of customers.
We shop briefly after lunch. It is very cool place. We walk up Market Street looking for Oxford. It is not easy to feed "The University". As opposed to the United States, where there is the school and then everything else. Oxford University is a loose collections of colleges spread throughout the city.
We find a number of "Authorized" Oxford University stores. I buy a cap and Betty purchased an illustrated book about "Inspector Morse's Oxford". I did say we are big fans.
Wonderful things happen when you do walk abouts. We walk pass an old church built with the solid yellow stone of Oxford. We turn left into a large courtyard and discover the Radcliffe Camera (camera is Italian for "room"). It is an academic library built in 1749. You can view the neo-classical round building, but you must be a student to enter.
Through a passageway, we are in a open grass courtyard that is surrounded by the buildings that include the Bodleian Library, the second largest library in the United Kingdom next to the British Library. Uniquely an independent reference library, the collections is impressive. The range includes Mexican, early Greek New Testament manuscript, copies of the Magna Carta, the Song of Roland, Shakespeare's first folio and Middle English manuscript called The Vernon Manuscript.
Very much a working library, there are no tours. But, there is a Gift Shop.
We see the Bridge of Sighs. It is turning cloudy and the wind is chilly. On the "bucket list" is an English pub and, specifically, an Oxford pub (there goes that Inspector Morse/Lewis thing again). At the end of the passageways and on the corner is Youngs King's Arms Pub. The building and the Pub date to 1607. We stop for a pint. I have a pint and Betty had a half pint. The bitters was very good. It was cool not cold and the taste was a little ale.
A memory that last forever, we are outside on benches drinking a pint and looking at the Sheldonian Theatre. A still active theatre built in 1669 by Christopher Wren.
It is getting late and we begin looking for a "on/off bus stop" in order to see the remainder of Oxford. We discover a great bookstore, Blackwell's. The front of the store hides an enormous bookstore. of course, we investigate.
About 16:00 (4 PM), we jump on the bus. We climb to the top deck. It is getting cold. It is the end of the good weather. We tour Oxford. The architecture changes greatly. There is concrete next to Clipsham stone (the yellow stone common throughout the UK) buildings. Tucked in parking next to fourteen foot double doors. There is a park which closes one day a year in order to remain private.
We finish the bus tour. It has started to drizzle. Since we picked up the bus about half of the way through the tour, we decided to go around one more time. The whole tour is about forty minutes long. It is late and with the weather change, the bus does not stop often which speeds up things
There is The Eagle and Child pub where C.S. Lewis, J.R.R. Tolkien and other literary luminaries of the early 20th century met. There is the house of Charles Lutwidge (Lewis Carroll). There is the little shop that inspired the Old Sheep Shop. There is the Great Hall at Christ Church which has a window dedicated to Alice Liddell ( the Alice in Looking Glass). The Great Hall also is now famous for Harry Potter.
At 17:30 we again pull into the train station. Coffee and a sweet refresh us. The next train to Paddington is at 18:00. We step onto the platform. It is very crowded. We start to think about the next train. Paddington Station is the end of the line - so all trains arrive in Paddington.
Everyone - experienced commuters included - crowd to the middle coaches. We rush to the last coaches. We yell at the conductor to hold the door. The coach has plenty of seats and we settle in for the hour plus ride home. We are on savings time so sundown is after 19:00. It is still dark by the time we arrive to the hotel. Dinner from Waitrose tonight.
We meet a gentleman who advises Betty that Cambridge would have been a better trip. We think he is a Cambridge professor. Our trip is in part to see more of England and a large part because we are huge fans of the mystery series - Inspector Morse and Inspector Lewis. We have watched these series for decades.
Obviously, Oxford holds an academic aura. It will be fun to say at parties "I went to Oxford'.
The land around Oxford is wet with small streams and ponds. Oxford is close to the source of the River Thames near Devonshire. The Thames and the Thame merge above Oxford in an area referred to as "Thame-Isis".
There is no exact date for the founding of the University. Teaching may have occurred as early as 1096 and likely was religious oriented. The early teachers were Franciscans. After Henry II banned English students from attending University of Paris, the University grew rapidly.
In 1209, hostilities broke out between students and town peoples. An accident which resulted in the death of a town woman caused three innocent students to be hung. Apparently, this was the beginning of the universal dislike of locals for college students.When we arrive at the small train station, we decide to do something we have talked about many times and never done. Every city has "on/off bus tours". In general, it is a recommended method to orientate yourself to new city. The buses are double decker. It is a competitive business.
And it makes sense. If you have limited time to view a city, the bus is great. We have about seven hours to experience Oxford. Betty negotiates and the cost is a lot less than major cities.
The bus is outside. We board the bus and the taped tour begins. The weather is changing but it is still comfortable outside. We ride the bus into the town. After about four stops, we exit at High and Queen Streets. We are hungry and have been told to try "The Covered Market". The Covered Market is a odd mixture of stores and eateries. It is an old building (1774) and surprisingly large. It is not a farmer's market. It is a mixture of small stores. I am guessing a large store is 150 square feet. Some of the businesses have been there for decades. The businesses include jewelry store, butcher shop, produce and a few restaurants.
We chose Brown's. No Yelp. We are hungry and there are tables. Brown's is famous. Popular with locals, students, professors and tourist. It is a family place. You find your own table and receive menus. You walk up to the register to order your meals. It is a family business. You can tell that it is family. Brown's is run by a Portugese family. I am fairly confident that the lady at the register is the mother.
The food is comfort food. The soup was great. The order is brought to your table. Everyone is friendly. The family with two children next to us enjoys. There is a steady stream of customers.
We shop briefly after lunch. It is very cool place. We walk up Market Street looking for Oxford. It is not easy to feed "The University". As opposed to the United States, where there is the school and then everything else. Oxford University is a loose collections of colleges spread throughout the city.
We find a number of "Authorized" Oxford University stores. I buy a cap and Betty purchased an illustrated book about "Inspector Morse's Oxford". I did say we are big fans.
Wonderful things happen when you do walk abouts. We walk pass an old church built with the solid yellow stone of Oxford. We turn left into a large courtyard and discover the Radcliffe Camera (camera is Italian for "room"). It is an academic library built in 1749. You can view the neo-classical round building, but you must be a student to enter.Through a passageway, we are in a open grass courtyard that is surrounded by the buildings that include the Bodleian Library, the second largest library in the United Kingdom next to the British Library. Uniquely an independent reference library, the collections is impressive. The range includes Mexican, early Greek New Testament manuscript, copies of the Magna Carta, the Song of Roland, Shakespeare's first folio and Middle English manuscript called The Vernon Manuscript.
Very much a working library, there are no tours. But, there is a Gift Shop.
We see the Bridge of Sighs. It is turning cloudy and the wind is chilly. On the "bucket list" is an English pub and, specifically, an Oxford pub (there goes that Inspector Morse/Lewis thing again). At the end of the passageways and on the corner is Youngs King's Arms Pub. The building and the Pub date to 1607. We stop for a pint. I have a pint and Betty had a half pint. The bitters was very good. It was cool not cold and the taste was a little ale.A memory that last forever, we are outside on benches drinking a pint and looking at the Sheldonian Theatre. A still active theatre built in 1669 by Christopher Wren.
It is getting late and we begin looking for a "on/off bus stop" in order to see the remainder of Oxford. We discover a great bookstore, Blackwell's. The front of the store hides an enormous bookstore. of course, we investigate.
About 16:00 (4 PM), we jump on the bus. We climb to the top deck. It is getting cold. It is the end of the good weather. We tour Oxford. The architecture changes greatly. There is concrete next to Clipsham stone (the yellow stone common throughout the UK) buildings. Tucked in parking next to fourteen foot double doors. There is a park which closes one day a year in order to remain private.
We finish the bus tour. It has started to drizzle. Since we picked up the bus about half of the way through the tour, we decided to go around one more time. The whole tour is about forty minutes long. It is late and with the weather change, the bus does not stop often which speeds up things
There is The Eagle and Child pub where C.S. Lewis, J.R.R. Tolkien and other literary luminaries of the early 20th century met. There is the house of Charles Lutwidge (Lewis Carroll). There is the little shop that inspired the Old Sheep Shop. There is the Great Hall at Christ Church which has a window dedicated to Alice Liddell ( the Alice in Looking Glass). The Great Hall also is now famous for Harry Potter.
At 17:30 we again pull into the train station. Coffee and a sweet refresh us. The next train to Paddington is at 18:00. We step onto the platform. It is very crowded. We start to think about the next train. Paddington Station is the end of the line - so all trains arrive in Paddington.
Everyone - experienced commuters included - crowd to the middle coaches. We rush to the last coaches. We yell at the conductor to hold the door. The coach has plenty of seats and we settle in for the hour plus ride home. We are on savings time so sundown is after 19:00. It is still dark by the time we arrive to the hotel. Dinner from Waitrose tonight.
Saturday, June 4, 2016
"It's a sad fact of modern life that if you drive long enough, sooner or later you must leave London behind"
The weather holds.
It is sunny and mild. In the sun, it is comfortable. It has been a very late spring in London. When we arrived on April 2nd, the trees were just budding. Now two weeks later the majority of trees are barely in leaf.
It is great to cruise the Thames River. With the kids, we had taken a City Cruise to arrive at the Tower of London. Betty and I are now traveling to Greenwich. Betty visited Greenwich on her first trip as we travel memories are retrieved and comparisons made.
We no longer have The London Pass. There are apparently a great many ways to travel the Thames River. We find that the most common method is integrated into the London Transportation system. The Oyster Card works.
We take the Circle Line to the Embankment Station. A wrong turn on my part. A correction by Betty. A hazardous crossing of a street and we are at the docks. It is remarkable simple. Betty speaks to the attendant and confirms the boat we need to take. We flash our Oyster Cards.
The boat is similar to the previous. It is a local so we stop often which is actually enjoyable. It is a commuter boat. We pass under the Tower Bridge. We stop at the Canary Wharf dock which the heart of the new "hip" - upscale area of London. The river is now converted warehouse and docks with restaurants and shops. There are small yachting clubs. The rivop er widens. It is difficult to imagine the river as dirty, busy highway for the riches of the empire.
The outlines and the bones are still there in names. Docks were devoted to the goods the goods they stored.
As the river spreads, the shores become more open. As we reach Greenwich, you understand the importance of the Thames river to London and to the Empire. Greenwich is the crossroads for ships. Over the town of Greenwich a hill dominates the river. It has to be the highest point on the river. At the top of this steep hill (this is my second climb in two days and I admit I stop to catch my breath) is the Greenwich Observatory and the Greenwich Line.
Greenwich is east of London. It was the royal residence of the Tudors. It was a convenient and in kingly comfort from the Tudor Castle - The Tower of London. The Palace was the birthplace of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. As with all things London, the Palace was rebuilt as the Royal Navy Hospital by Christopher Wren. The buildings became the Royal Naval College and continued as such until 1998.
At the docking, we flash our Oyster Card to exit. We pass the sitting Cutty Sark to the entrance of the National Maritime Museum. I did check and "sitting" is the correct term for a late 19th century schooner now on ground so you can walk around it and pay $20 for the opportunity to walk the decks. We pass.
Once inside, we have to increase the amount on our Oyster Cards. Oyster Cards are like your Starbucks application and takes credit cards. Transportation in the United Kingdom is expensive. It is refundable. You do not want to loss your Oyster Card, especially, if it has a large balance.
The Royal Navy Museum is exactly what a good museum should be - small, direct and brief. What is great is that they have a beer garden and my experience with "clotted cream". It is one of those foods that you will search for the rest of your life.
I order a coffee and scone. For 60 pence (about a $1.00) if I wanted cream and jam. Scones can be dry so I agree. "Clotted cream" is also referred to as "Devonshire Cream". Later, I looked it up. It is a thick cream. You spread on the scone like butter and top with jam. You do not want to stop eating. You want to run about the room asking "try this, it is the food of the gods".
We walk up the street following the other tourist. When in doubt, follow the flow. We are looking for the Royal Observatory. We follow for three blocks and to the a large park. We pass the National Maritime Museum and Queen Ann's Palace which is reportedly the inspiration for the design of the American White House (you can see it).
I should have realized that you put an Observatory on top of a hill. But, I did not. Betty does and she volunteers to guard my seat on a park bench. She has been to the Observatory. It was built in 1899 so not much has changed.
I walk across the park towards the base of the spiral trail that leads to the top. I am confident. Just yesterday, I climbed to top of St. Paul's Cathedral. The hill won. I have to stop just short of the top. It is a steep wide trail. As you climb the view becomes more and more impressive. People have stopped along the road to take photos. Other tourists are on the grass just looking. Some are seating. Most are taking selfies.
The Observatory and the Prime Meridian are in a remarkable small building. Today, the Prime Meridian is an oddity on our smart phones. The solution by Englishman, John Harrison, solved the largest navigation problem - "where am I?'.
Since ancient times, sailors could determine their Latitude (north/south location). But, to navigate accurately, they needed a method to determine their east/west location. The eventual solution was the marine chronometer (yep, there is a whole room of chronometers). The Prime Meridian is an artificial equator now used throughout the world for ships, clocks and GPS to determine your locations.
I pass up the opportunity to see the Prime Meridian and the Observatory. Betty is waiting and the entrance fee is about $25.
The park bench is safe. Betty and I decide to visit the National Maritime Museum. Again, it is not large. Initially, you are not impressed. But, as you wonder the exhibits you become interested. It is when you find the second floor and the exhibits for the West Indies Company and the Slave Trade.
Both are extremely honest looks at the evil of enslavement and greed. I am sure that a student of the period would critique the exhibits more. With my limited knowledge, I found that the exhibitors tried to be honest about this very ugly reason for the wealth of the Empire.
The day is over. Literally they close the doors after us. I do not buy many souvenirs. I like objects that I will use and remind of the experience and location. Here, I buy a 2016-2017 University of Greenwich Calendar Book. I will use as a desk notebook.
We disembark at the Embankment (I had to write that) and take the Tube back to the Hotel. We are getting proficient at the Tube. I really starting to enjoy the location of the hotel and the area around the station is great.
Tomorrow, we go to Oxford.
It is sunny and mild. In the sun, it is comfortable. It has been a very late spring in London. When we arrived on April 2nd, the trees were just budding. Now two weeks later the majority of trees are barely in leaf.
It is great to cruise the Thames River. With the kids, we had taken a City Cruise to arrive at the Tower of London. Betty and I are now traveling to Greenwich. Betty visited Greenwich on her first trip as we travel memories are retrieved and comparisons made.
We no longer have The London Pass. There are apparently a great many ways to travel the Thames River. We find that the most common method is integrated into the London Transportation system. The Oyster Card works.
We take the Circle Line to the Embankment Station. A wrong turn on my part. A correction by Betty. A hazardous crossing of a street and we are at the docks. It is remarkable simple. Betty speaks to the attendant and confirms the boat we need to take. We flash our Oyster Cards.
The boat is similar to the previous. It is a local so we stop often which is actually enjoyable. It is a commuter boat. We pass under the Tower Bridge. We stop at the Canary Wharf dock which the heart of the new "hip" - upscale area of London. The river is now converted warehouse and docks with restaurants and shops. There are small yachting clubs. The rivop er widens. It is difficult to imagine the river as dirty, busy highway for the riches of the empire.The outlines and the bones are still there in names. Docks were devoted to the goods the goods they stored.
As the river spreads, the shores become more open. As we reach Greenwich, you understand the importance of the Thames river to London and to the Empire. Greenwich is the crossroads for ships. Over the town of Greenwich a hill dominates the river. It has to be the highest point on the river. At the top of this steep hill (this is my second climb in two days and I admit I stop to catch my breath) is the Greenwich Observatory and the Greenwich Line.
Greenwich is east of London. It was the royal residence of the Tudors. It was a convenient and in kingly comfort from the Tudor Castle - The Tower of London. The Palace was the birthplace of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. As with all things London, the Palace was rebuilt as the Royal Navy Hospital by Christopher Wren. The buildings became the Royal Naval College and continued as such until 1998.
At the docking, we flash our Oyster Card to exit. We pass the sitting Cutty Sark to the entrance of the National Maritime Museum. I did check and "sitting" is the correct term for a late 19th century schooner now on ground so you can walk around it and pay $20 for the opportunity to walk the decks. We pass.
Once inside, we have to increase the amount on our Oyster Cards. Oyster Cards are like your Starbucks application and takes credit cards. Transportation in the United Kingdom is expensive. It is refundable. You do not want to loss your Oyster Card, especially, if it has a large balance.
The Royal Navy Museum is exactly what a good museum should be - small, direct and brief. What is great is that they have a beer garden and my experience with "clotted cream". It is one of those foods that you will search for the rest of your life.I order a coffee and scone. For 60 pence (about a $1.00) if I wanted cream and jam. Scones can be dry so I agree. "Clotted cream" is also referred to as "Devonshire Cream". Later, I looked it up. It is a thick cream. You spread on the scone like butter and top with jam. You do not want to stop eating. You want to run about the room asking "try this, it is the food of the gods".
I should have realized that you put an Observatory on top of a hill. But, I did not. Betty does and she volunteers to guard my seat on a park bench. She has been to the Observatory. It was built in 1899 so not much has changed.I walk across the park towards the base of the spiral trail that leads to the top. I am confident. Just yesterday, I climbed to top of St. Paul's Cathedral. The hill won. I have to stop just short of the top. It is a steep wide trail. As you climb the view becomes more and more impressive. People have stopped along the road to take photos. Other tourists are on the grass just looking. Some are seating. Most are taking selfies.
The Observatory and the Prime Meridian are in a remarkable small building. Today, the Prime Meridian is an oddity on our smart phones. The solution by Englishman, John Harrison, solved the largest navigation problem - "where am I?'.Since ancient times, sailors could determine their Latitude (north/south location). But, to navigate accurately, they needed a method to determine their east/west location. The eventual solution was the marine chronometer (yep, there is a whole room of chronometers). The Prime Meridian is an artificial equator now used throughout the world for ships, clocks and GPS to determine your locations.
I pass up the opportunity to see the Prime Meridian and the Observatory. Betty is waiting and the entrance fee is about $25.
The park bench is safe. Betty and I decide to visit the National Maritime Museum. Again, it is not large. Initially, you are not impressed. But, as you wonder the exhibits you become interested. It is when you find the second floor and the exhibits for the West Indies Company and the Slave Trade.
Both are extremely honest looks at the evil of enslavement and greed. I am sure that a student of the period would critique the exhibits more. With my limited knowledge, I found that the exhibitors tried to be honest about this very ugly reason for the wealth of the Empire.
The day is over. Literally they close the doors after us. I do not buy many souvenirs. I like objects that I will use and remind of the experience and location. Here, I buy a 2016-2017 University of Greenwich Calendar Book. I will use as a desk notebook.
We disembark at the Embankment (I had to write that) and take the Tube back to the Hotel. We are getting proficient at the Tube. I really starting to enjoy the location of the hotel and the area around the station is great.
Tomorrow, we go to Oxford.
Friday, June 3, 2016
"The secret of architectual excellence is to translate the proporations of a dachshund into bricks, mortar and marble"
Travel is fun and educational. We like our approach to travel. At times, it is hectic. We do miss things that a tour or planned itinerary would assure.
The singular advantage to us is that it is our successes and failures that make for great memories. In brief moments of time, we live in that country. This occurs most often when riding public transportation. You feel out of place for a short time. Then you realize that locals study the Metro maps in the stations as often as you. It is human nature to want a degree of confidence for reaching your destination.
In the cities, we have visited we have never had a problem. Rush hour is Rush hour. The trains are standing room only. People push. People are polite and impolite. You wait for a less crowded train.
In London, commuters read newspapers or books on phones. Games are popular. You could be anywhere but you are in London, Paris, Rome, Milan. If they cared, the commuters know that you are a visitor, a tourist and a foreigner. What they do not know is that you are also on an adventure.
My great moments are when in Rome and Siena I am asked in Italian for directions. At the Louvre, Betty was twice asked by tourists in guidebook French for directions to the toilet.
On our way from Paris to London, I hold a conversation in French with a gentleman about the rudeness of the lady in front of us. He speaks. I listen and respond with a laugh, a shrug or a nod. I know what he is talking about.
In Siena, while grocery shopping, I get into a discussion with a man about the greatness and follies of women in Italian. The conversation is well beyond my limited vocabulary.
Yes, we miss a few of the great sites. Often, we are not certain what we are looking at. I am happy.
Today is Wednesday in London. Betty and I take the Tube to St. Paul's Cathedral. It is remarkably short trip. The problem with maps is that it difficult to truly estimate distance and time.
The weather is great. It is sunny. The chill has subsided. St. Paul is on my bucket list of sights in London. I think my interest goes back to Saturday afternoons with nothing to do and watching travel shows. When does the desire to travel begin? Saturday afternoons on a cold, wet spring day in the Midwest watching television.
St Paul Cathedral is an impressive structure. During our trip, Betty remembers certain places she visited years ago and it helps. Betty did not visit St Paul's so we are a little apprehensive of what to expect.
There is no crowd. A short line, we purchase our tickets and our self guided tour devices. Christopher Wren built London. Christopher Wren loved churches. Therefore, London has a lot of Churches.
St Paul's Cathedral is his masterpiece. One of the reasons I wanted to see St Paul is the dome. It does not disappoint. I did not climb the dome in Florence. I will climb Wren's dome.
The climb is in three stages. The first is about 259 steps to the inner ring of the dome. You are about thirty five feet from the floor in the Whispering Gallery. This is the most common area for people to climb to the stairway is fairly broad and circular. Not an easy climb, but not difficult. The gallery is famous for auditory quirk - you can whisper facing the wall and a person on the other side can hear the whisper.
If you do not enjoy heights and narrow walking around a ninety foot fall to a marble floor. Sit for a minute. Rest and walk down.
If you are adventurous, climb to the Stone Gallery. You will be 173 feet from that soft landing on the marble floor. The climb is another 120 steps. This time the stairway is narrow and a twisting spiral.
There is an outside catwalk around the dome. The view is fantastic today. The view is blue sky and a few clouds. Even with a slight breeze at 173 feet, it is windy and I do not like heights. As you lean over the fence which is about chest high, you visualize losing your grip on the cell phone while taking that once in a lifetime photo.
Courage. There is one more to climb. The Golden Gallery is the smallest of the galleries and runs around the outside of the dome. You are 280 feet above London. You climb 160 steps. The stairway is metal nd very narrow. You cannot fall. But, the possibility does flash before you.
An advantage of this climb is that you see the bones of the dome. Layers of red brick have been laid ever so slightly with a lean inwards. It is impressive and in an industrial artistic way - beautiful. It is marvelous.
The view is more breath taking. It is a 360 degree view of London. As with the view from the Eiffel Tower, you understand the grandness and size of these cities. You also understand that you are looking various cities within a cities. As a tourist, you see and travel so much, but it is the "tourist" area. It is the historical section. Same is true with all travel. Visit Chicago and stay downtown. You will feel that you have been to Chicago. But, you miss the neighborhoods which are the identity of the city - even now.
I circled the catwalk quickly. Betty is in the church waiting for me. She is the smart one.
As I walk around the Cathedral, I find a marble edifice to General Cornwallis. I note that the English like the French never lost a battle. They just did not win. There is no mention of his surrender at Yorktown. Apparently, Cornwallis was quite the guy in India.
Like Westminster Abbey, the floor space of the Cathedral is occupied by these marble remembrances to generals, admirals and armies. The basement of the Cathedral has its own collection of burial tombs. John Donne, Christopher Wren, Horatio Nelson and Duke of Wellington are in the basement.
As I met Betty to leave the choir is practicing. The stairs in front of the Cathedral are full of young people. It is a beautiful afternoon to meet your friends. The front of the Cathedral is definitely Baroque.
After a coffee, we are on the hunt for the "Old Bailey" of English justice. We find the street and we find a building. It does not look anything like Betty remembers. Forty years ago, Betty traveled England, France and Spain by herself. In England, she attended a trial with the white wigs and dockets. Why not, again.
Unfortunately, we find out later that there are trials here and it is the "Old Bailey", but not the court she attended. As we walk around the area, several police cars pull up and efficiently block the street at both ends of the block.
These are not bobbies. Actually, I can only remember seeing a few "bobbie" in the two weeks in England. We saw police. The majority of the police were armed. They were very well armed.
The view is more breath taking. It is a 360 degree view of London. As with the view from the Eiffel Tower, you understand the grandness and size of these cities. You also understand that you are looking various cities within a cities. As a tourist, you see and travel so much, but it is the "tourist" area. It is the historical section. Same is true with all travel. Visit Chicago and stay downtown. You will feel that you have been to Chicago. But, you miss the neighborhoods which are the identity of the city - even now.
It is rush hour. We use public transportation a great deal so the Tube will be crowded. We stop at Jamie's Wine Bar for a glass of wine. In Italy, we often stopped for a drink at the end of the day. In London, the weather has curtailed that enjoyment.
There are two small groups in the bar. It is early. One group appears to be attorneys who are doing a post mortem on that day's activities. The other group is two older men impressing their two younger female subordinates with their importance. The women seem to be impressed. The women are working very hard to be impressed. All four press their agenda with alcohol as the grease and the excuse. It will be long night.
We finish our glasses of wine. We find the station. Traffic is intense. And, there are bicycles riders. Their skill and courage is mind blowing. The underground is crowded. People still stop and check the signs. With experience, Betty and I move quickly. It is simple. Know where you want to go. For us, it is the District or Circle Lines. As long as we are on the right platform - the right direction - we will get home.
We stop at the Waitrose Supermarket next the Gloucester Station. English grocery stores are the same as you experience in Europe. The stores are efficient. Selection is specific. Quantity is adequate. The stores rely heavily on prepared foods. There is not a lot of produce and meats. Those are purchased at specific "old fashioned" green grocery and butcher. As in Paris, the food is tasty, if somewhat uniform.
I go for the curry dish which is in a very large flat pan. It is vegetable. Definitely, it is a curry dish. I would try something different next time. But, for carry back to the hotel room for dinner on the bed watching television, it is great. I am in London. It was a beautiful day. I am very lucky.
Tomorrow, Greenwich.
If you do not enjoy heights and narrow walking around a ninety foot fall to a marble floor. Sit for a minute. Rest and walk down.
If you are adventurous, climb to the Stone Gallery. You will be 173 feet from that soft landing on the marble floor. The climb is another 120 steps. This time the stairway is narrow and a twisting spiral.
There is an outside catwalk around the dome. The view is fantastic today. The view is blue sky and a few clouds. Even with a slight breeze at 173 feet, it is windy and I do not like heights. As you lean over the fence which is about chest high, you visualize losing your grip on the cell phone while taking that once in a lifetime photo.
Courage. There is one more to climb. The Golden Gallery is the smallest of the galleries and runs around the outside of the dome. You are 280 feet above London. You climb 160 steps. The stairway is metal nd very narrow. You cannot fall. But, the possibility does flash before you.
An advantage of this climb is that you see the bones of the dome. Layers of red brick have been laid ever so slightly with a lean inwards. It is impressive and in an industrial artistic way - beautiful. It is marvelous.
The view is more breath taking. It is a 360 degree view of London. As with the view from the Eiffel Tower, you understand the grandness and size of these cities. You also understand that you are looking various cities within a cities. As a tourist, you see and travel so much, but it is the "tourist" area. It is the historical section. Same is true with all travel. Visit Chicago and stay downtown. You will feel that you have been to Chicago. But, you miss the neighborhoods which are the identity of the city - even now.I circled the catwalk quickly. Betty is in the church waiting for me. She is the smart one.
As I walk around the Cathedral, I find a marble edifice to General Cornwallis. I note that the English like the French never lost a battle. They just did not win. There is no mention of his surrender at Yorktown. Apparently, Cornwallis was quite the guy in India.
Like Westminster Abbey, the floor space of the Cathedral is occupied by these marble remembrances to generals, admirals and armies. The basement of the Cathedral has its own collection of burial tombs. John Donne, Christopher Wren, Horatio Nelson and Duke of Wellington are in the basement.
As I met Betty to leave the choir is practicing. The stairs in front of the Cathedral are full of young people. It is a beautiful afternoon to meet your friends. The front of the Cathedral is definitely Baroque.
After a coffee, we are on the hunt for the "Old Bailey" of English justice. We find the street and we find a building. It does not look anything like Betty remembers. Forty years ago, Betty traveled England, France and Spain by herself. In England, she attended a trial with the white wigs and dockets. Why not, again.
Unfortunately, we find out later that there are trials here and it is the "Old Bailey", but not the court she attended. As we walk around the area, several police cars pull up and efficiently block the street at both ends of the block.
These are not bobbies. Actually, I can only remember seeing a few "bobbie" in the two weeks in England. We saw police. The majority of the police were armed. They were very well armed.
The view is more breath taking. It is a 360 degree view of London. As with the view from the Eiffel Tower, you understand the grandness and size of these cities. You also understand that you are looking various cities within a cities. As a tourist, you see and travel so much, but it is the "tourist" area. It is the historical section. Same is true with all travel. Visit Chicago and stay downtown. You will feel that you have been to Chicago. But, you miss the neighborhoods which are the identity of the city - even now.
It is rush hour. We use public transportation a great deal so the Tube will be crowded. We stop at Jamie's Wine Bar for a glass of wine. In Italy, we often stopped for a drink at the end of the day. In London, the weather has curtailed that enjoyment.
There are two small groups in the bar. It is early. One group appears to be attorneys who are doing a post mortem on that day's activities. The other group is two older men impressing their two younger female subordinates with their importance. The women seem to be impressed. The women are working very hard to be impressed. All four press their agenda with alcohol as the grease and the excuse. It will be long night.
We finish our glasses of wine. We find the station. Traffic is intense. And, there are bicycles riders. Their skill and courage is mind blowing. The underground is crowded. People still stop and check the signs. With experience, Betty and I move quickly. It is simple. Know where you want to go. For us, it is the District or Circle Lines. As long as we are on the right platform - the right direction - we will get home.
We stop at the Waitrose Supermarket next the Gloucester Station. English grocery stores are the same as you experience in Europe. The stores are efficient. Selection is specific. Quantity is adequate. The stores rely heavily on prepared foods. There is not a lot of produce and meats. Those are purchased at specific "old fashioned" green grocery and butcher. As in Paris, the food is tasty, if somewhat uniform.
I go for the curry dish which is in a very large flat pan. It is vegetable. Definitely, it is a curry dish. I would try something different next time. But, for carry back to the hotel room for dinner on the bed watching television, it is great. I am in London. It was a beautiful day. I am very lucky.
Tomorrow, Greenwich.
Saturday, May 21, 2016
"First of all, I would like to make one thing clear: I never explain anything"
It is Monday. The kids left yesterday. It is Betty and I. Our last week in London. Our plan is to make the week more relaxed and personal.
The hotel room is large by Europe standards. The bathroom is almost American in style and size. The shower is not an after thought. There is a full shower curtain and you can turn around.
One of the travel issues you become familiar with as you travel internationally is electrical adapters. I am sure that constant international travelers has closets full and can never find the right one when needed.
First advice, do not buy adapters in the store - any store including REI - simple, you can buy on Amazon for a quarter of the store price. Secondly, you may or may not need a converter. Converters convert 220 (European and United Kingdom) to 110 so that you will not fry your USA electronics.
The good news is that almost all personal electronics chargers you will use on your trip - cell phones, computers, cameras, video - reduce both 220 and 110 to the wattage used to recharge their batteries. How do you know? Simple, if you have a charger which uses a UBS connector to connect your device into the wall socket to charge your various devices. You do not need an converter.
You can purchases in the US hair blowers and curlers which will work on both 110 and 220.
Buy one converter just for security. Leave in your suitcase until that rainy day.
I recommend the purchase of four adaptors for each of the countries you are visiting. It is surprising how many electronic devices are now required in daily life. The Internet is your friend to identify the specific adaptors you will need. Be prepared, the hotel rooms have few outlets and the majority of those are in use. So you make decisions - turn on the lamp or charge my phone. Multiple by the number devices and people, there is always a shortage of outlets.
I am a person that likes to walk. When you walk you see so much more. You feel part of what is going on around you. You read signs. You look in windows. You greet people. You stop for coffee. You get lost and find wonderful things.
The hotel is really great. The deal includes either a breakfast buffet or a Continental breakfast. The buffet is entry level of the hotel. The Continental is on the sixth floor. I have opted for the Continental. My thought is coffee and biscuit. Instead, the Continental is a mini-buffet.
The Television is onto either BBC or Sky News. The major news of the week is the Queen's 90th birthday; Obama's visit, the London Mayor election and the upcoming June vote on remaining in the European Common Market.
UK journalism is a hideous joke. There is no attempt to report the news. It is scandal, demagogy and poorly written. I read the newspapers. It is not even entertaining.
The food is great and the breakfast room is well furnished and attended. My only complaint is that room is stuffy and the sensation is uncomfortable warm. Now, in their defense. I plan to leave for my walk right after breakfast so I am dressed for a London spring of 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
As I will learn during the week the hotel is in a great location. Besides the immediacy of the Underground station, we are within walking distance of a number of museums. High Keningston area is within a few blocks.
I have no direction in mind as I leave to hotel. I turn right.
In two weeks in London, I never become comfortable with the direction that vehicles will come at me as I step off the curb. I would not even attempt to drive in the UK. I rate the London driver as much more scarier than Paris or Rome.
As a pedestrian, I was much more comfortable in Rome than London. Romans stop. There are rules. I will scare the crap out of you, but I will not hit you. In London, they want to hit you.
The problem with crossing a street in London is that you have to look in the opposition direction than you have all your life. It is not just me. Look down as you begin to cross a street and there is a specific message "look to your left" and then "look to your right". It has to be dangerous if they have to tell even their native pedestrians at every corner which direction to look before stepping off the curb.
This is a orientation walk. What is the neighborhood like? In the direction I walk, the area is predominantly residential. I turn left on the first large street I come to and follow the curving street into a more commercial upscale area.
There are very few straight streets in London. Those streets that do not curve only last for a few blocks. Therefore it is hard to get lost, but difficult to get your bearings. I am reminded of Boston saying "You cannot get there from here."
The road curves towards to the Albert & Victoria Museum. I now have an idea where I am and where the hotel is located. I pass the British Natural History Museum. It is huge. The original building is red brick Victorian and is substantial. The modern structure which is integrated into the original building is an immense metal and glass structure. What possibly could require so much space?
This morning the line is actually long. It is Monday. The Museum has several short term exhibits which appeal to schools. It is about four blocks to the hotel. At the end of the walk, I never knew that Kensington is home to so many embassies. I now know where the Tunisia and Iraqi Embassies are for example. Not every impressive. But, surprisingly, no armed guards either. There must be ten embassies in Queen Gate Rd alone.
At the hotel, Betty joins me for lunch. Italian restaurants exists everywhere and as both chains or as small single shop businesses. Italian food says good food at reasonable prices. Think about it, have you ever seen a French restaurant chain. This is true in Paris. The easiest small restaurants are Pizzeria and Trattoria.
There are about six or seven food places on the hotel street.. Two coffee shops, three delis, a Whopper, a pub and a Wildwood. Wildwood is Italian food and not that bad.
After lunch, we walk to the Natural Museum. The crowd has diminished but we still have to walk to the far end of the block in order to walk back to the entrance.
Inside, the public museum is remarkable small. Betty remembers the museum as much different. Betty remembers glass cases with exhibits. Now, the museum is more "friendly". My guess is that the curators now limit the exhibits and rotate the collections.
So there are few actually bones laying around. It is neat and tidy. You can do the museum remarkably quickly which is great for tourists and children with short attentions. I was disappointed.
I missed the Darwin part of the museum. Betty said it was interesting. The dinosaur was brief and somewhat interesting. I have not been to the Field Museum in Chicago in a long time. My memory of that museum is fonder.
What is worth the trip (the museum is free) is the building itself. As you walk the steps of the main room, your steps on the stairs are with Charles Darwin and Richard Owen. (Richard Owen is the gentleman who named "terrible lizards" dinosaurs.)
The museum is within the museum complex that includes the Albert and Victoria and British Science Museum (which always had a line a half block long) so it is worth an hour late at the day.
We needed a slow day. Tomorrow, we travel.
The hotel room is large by Europe standards. The bathroom is almost American in style and size. The shower is not an after thought. There is a full shower curtain and you can turn around.
One of the travel issues you become familiar with as you travel internationally is electrical adapters. I am sure that constant international travelers has closets full and can never find the right one when needed.
First advice, do not buy adapters in the store - any store including REI - simple, you can buy on Amazon for a quarter of the store price. Secondly, you may or may not need a converter. Converters convert 220 (European and United Kingdom) to 110 so that you will not fry your USA electronics.
The good news is that almost all personal electronics chargers you will use on your trip - cell phones, computers, cameras, video - reduce both 220 and 110 to the wattage used to recharge their batteries. How do you know? Simple, if you have a charger which uses a UBS connector to connect your device into the wall socket to charge your various devices. You do not need an converter.
You can purchases in the US hair blowers and curlers which will work on both 110 and 220.
Buy one converter just for security. Leave in your suitcase until that rainy day.
I recommend the purchase of four adaptors for each of the countries you are visiting. It is surprising how many electronic devices are now required in daily life. The Internet is your friend to identify the specific adaptors you will need. Be prepared, the hotel rooms have few outlets and the majority of those are in use. So you make decisions - turn on the lamp or charge my phone. Multiple by the number devices and people, there is always a shortage of outlets.
I am a person that likes to walk. When you walk you see so much more. You feel part of what is going on around you. You read signs. You look in windows. You greet people. You stop for coffee. You get lost and find wonderful things.
The hotel is really great. The deal includes either a breakfast buffet or a Continental breakfast. The buffet is entry level of the hotel. The Continental is on the sixth floor. I have opted for the Continental. My thought is coffee and biscuit. Instead, the Continental is a mini-buffet.
The Television is onto either BBC or Sky News. The major news of the week is the Queen's 90th birthday; Obama's visit, the London Mayor election and the upcoming June vote on remaining in the European Common Market.
UK journalism is a hideous joke. There is no attempt to report the news. It is scandal, demagogy and poorly written. I read the newspapers. It is not even entertaining.
The food is great and the breakfast room is well furnished and attended. My only complaint is that room is stuffy and the sensation is uncomfortable warm. Now, in their defense. I plan to leave for my walk right after breakfast so I am dressed for a London spring of 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
As I will learn during the week the hotel is in a great location. Besides the immediacy of the Underground station, we are within walking distance of a number of museums. High Keningston area is within a few blocks.
I have no direction in mind as I leave to hotel. I turn right.
In two weeks in London, I never become comfortable with the direction that vehicles will come at me as I step off the curb. I would not even attempt to drive in the UK. I rate the London driver as much more scarier than Paris or Rome.
As a pedestrian, I was much more comfortable in Rome than London. Romans stop. There are rules. I will scare the crap out of you, but I will not hit you. In London, they want to hit you.
The problem with crossing a street in London is that you have to look in the opposition direction than you have all your life. It is not just me. Look down as you begin to cross a street and there is a specific message "look to your left" and then "look to your right". It has to be dangerous if they have to tell even their native pedestrians at every corner which direction to look before stepping off the curb.
This is a orientation walk. What is the neighborhood like? In the direction I walk, the area is predominantly residential. I turn left on the first large street I come to and follow the curving street into a more commercial upscale area.
There are very few straight streets in London. Those streets that do not curve only last for a few blocks. Therefore it is hard to get lost, but difficult to get your bearings. I am reminded of Boston saying "You cannot get there from here."
The road curves towards to the Albert & Victoria Museum. I now have an idea where I am and where the hotel is located. I pass the British Natural History Museum. It is huge. The original building is red brick Victorian and is substantial. The modern structure which is integrated into the original building is an immense metal and glass structure. What possibly could require so much space?
This morning the line is actually long. It is Monday. The Museum has several short term exhibits which appeal to schools. It is about four blocks to the hotel. At the end of the walk, I never knew that Kensington is home to so many embassies. I now know where the Tunisia and Iraqi Embassies are for example. Not every impressive. But, surprisingly, no armed guards either. There must be ten embassies in Queen Gate Rd alone.
At the hotel, Betty joins me for lunch. Italian restaurants exists everywhere and as both chains or as small single shop businesses. Italian food says good food at reasonable prices. Think about it, have you ever seen a French restaurant chain. This is true in Paris. The easiest small restaurants are Pizzeria and Trattoria.
There are about six or seven food places on the hotel street.. Two coffee shops, three delis, a Whopper, a pub and a Wildwood. Wildwood is Italian food and not that bad.
After lunch, we walk to the Natural Museum. The crowd has diminished but we still have to walk to the far end of the block in order to walk back to the entrance.
Inside, the public museum is remarkable small. Betty remembers the museum as much different. Betty remembers glass cases with exhibits. Now, the museum is more "friendly". My guess is that the curators now limit the exhibits and rotate the collections.
So there are few actually bones laying around. It is neat and tidy. You can do the museum remarkably quickly which is great for tourists and children with short attentions. I was disappointed.
I missed the Darwin part of the museum. Betty said it was interesting. The dinosaur was brief and somewhat interesting. I have not been to the Field Museum in Chicago in a long time. My memory of that museum is fonder.
What is worth the trip (the museum is free) is the building itself. As you walk the steps of the main room, your steps on the stairs are with Charles Darwin and Richard Owen. (Richard Owen is the gentleman who named "terrible lizards" dinosaurs.)
The museum is within the museum complex that includes the Albert and Victoria and British Science Museum (which always had a line a half block long) so it is worth an hour late at the day.
We needed a slow day. Tomorrow, we travel.
Sunday, May 15, 2016
"I am leaving because the weather is too good.I hate London when it's not raining"
idayiaToday is our last full day in London before the train to Paris. I do apologize for the jumping around in the blog. I am sure you are confused.
I did not write a great deal the trip itself. On the trip to Italy, we had over eight weeks. So if we did not do today, there was tomorrow. Also, there was wonderment. Everything was an adventure and unexpected.
We did so much. Even though we often left the apartment around 10:30, we were exhausted by the end of the day. I also found that I needed my morning walks to think about what I wanted to write.
I wrote for a few days in London. I then skipped to Paris for a few days. John, Angela and Caroline were with us for a week in London and then the week in Paris. They flew home from Heathrow on April 17th. Betty and I stayed in London until April 25th.
London is huge. It is easy to get around. But, being a casual tourist, you do as you please. We also walked as often as possible which is the way to learn a city, but does take time. On a guided tour, their schedule will get to the sites needed to say you have seen London. But, I can tell you what flowers were blooming in Kensington Park. I know where the Iran embassy is in London.
Today, we have the two great cultural flagship of the British Empire.
We take the Tube to the British Museum. We arrive relatively early. I cannot image the crowds during the summer. Now, we see school groups from all over Europe, tourists (I am surprised by the number of French tourists), English families on holiday and international tourists.
The British Museum is a very cool place. The core buildings are good. But the layout is modern and efficient. You know it looked different fifty years ago, but it is difficult to visualize the layout as it was then.
We split up. Caroline and I take off for the café. We leisurely study the Mesopotamia period. We comment on the Assyrian. We investigate the Babylonian period. We seek wisdom from the early and middle Kingdom.
And, we view the Rosetta Stone. The stone is not large at all. The stone could easily have been overlooked for centuries. There is nothing remarkable in appearance or size. Like most problems, the solution to reading hieroglyphics was there all the time. It took a French man to stumble across it and the English to confiscate.
The British Museum has a great cafeteria. After lunch, Caroline and I move on to the Greece.
I know a secret. The Parthenon was not destroyed. It still exist. Half of it is in British Museum. The other half is the Louvre. Seriously, it is kind to say that the Earl of Elgin (Thomas Bruce) took "some of the surviving sculptures" after 2,000 years of damage from war and conquest. He took a lot more than "some". The Louvre portion is a result of Napoleon's army theory "it is nailed down, take the entire wall". Elgin's theory was to find the most corrupt bureaucrat he could find and with some "greasing" offer to take the sculptures back to England to protect them.
The British Museum's display of their collection is excellent. The museum has recreated a small Greek tomb/temple. It is impressive.
Caroline and I are now using the Museum map. We have surrendered to the museum. To examine the museum in any detail is two full days. No one does that since large portions may not be of interest to you. For example, I am not interested in Asian art and artifacts. It is a great collection. But, you only have two to three hours.
We are "mummy" shopping. As we search, I am aware of how little I know about the great ancient civilizations. Like the Etrusican display at the Vatican Museum, Western Historians pay so little attention to civilizations. We assume that the Egyptians and Greeks blossomed in a void. The winner gets to write the history books. Walk through the British Museum, you see that stealing on a grand scale is an ancient sport.
We find the Egyptian mummies. Come on admit in, you are thinking about the movie "Night in the Museum" Sequel 3 or something like that. You go to the British Museum to see mummies.
You will be disappoint. Go see them. They are a must. But, as I have often said, "you see one mummy, you have seen them all". Betty, who visited the Museum in the 1970's, mentions that the mummies exhibit is smaller. Makes sense.
When you travel Europe you soon realize how much of an attraction Da Vinci and Michelangelo are. It is a point of great pride for a museum to have a portion of the life production of these two men. The British Museum has a number of exhibits.
We hunt down Michelangelo's cartoon, the Epifania. It is not easy to find since it is right and then left from the mummies. And, yes, I said cartoon. I was not expecting Woody Woodpecker. But the word "cartoon" is difficult to visualize as a Michelangelo. A "cartoon" is the final preparatory work done by the artist prior to beginning the actual painting.
The Epifania cartoon is black chalk drawing on 26 sheets of paper. It is about 80 inches in height. The actual subject of the drawing is unknown. The painting was not started.
We return at the predetermined time to the large circular vestibule which is the gateway to the wings of the museum exhibits themselves. It always surprises me how we actually find each other. The trick is to hover around the souvenir shops or to find me - the café.
It is afternoon. We start for the British Library. The Library has been on everyone's list. But, we are attempting to do it last. Part of the reason is that Library is slightly out of the flow of museums and attractions. It is by itself as an attraction. You cannot walk there. It is a newer building.
You have to go. There is only one room. It is a working research museum so access is by appointment. That does not matter. It is the exhibit room to the left of the escalator that holds the best reason to visit London.
The room is dark with lighted display cases. Very well done. As you move from the handwritten lyrics of the Beatles, Carroll's original manuscript, Magna Carta and Shakespeare sonnets, History is more real. It is that it is that moment when thought is put to paper and the action will follow. Did the author realize what greatness had begun. These were strong willed men and women. But, did they really realize.
The exhibit takes about 30-45 minutes which is great since the library is closing as we leave the building.
The kids discovered on Tuesday a small restaurant within a short walk of the apartment. The American Hamburger has been discovered in Europe. Well, the gourmet cheeseburger has been discovered. This is a chain in London called "Honest Burgers". I am sure the kids found on the restaurant on YELP. Betty had mentioned that the Onion Rings they brought home on Tuesday were the best she has had.
We are going to dinner at Honest Burger. We leave the apartment about 20:00 (8 PM). With John and Angela in the lead and Caroline and I as the rear guard. In London, streets are not straight. They change names frequently. A place you found easily on Tuesday is not easily located on Friday.
The difference is that you try a more direct route. Seriously, in London, you cannot guess on short cuts. John and Angela are confident until after about twenty minutes of walking they realize that we are walking in the wrong direction. It is fine with me. I am seeing great little bars and restaurants.
Logically, they guide us back to a starting point that they are confident of and arrive with 10 minutes.
It is about 19:00 (9PM) on a Friday night. I am concerned and hungry. But there is a table for four on the lower level (basement).
We have cheeseburgers, fries (honest, the fries in Europe are so much better), onion rings and beers.
One other thing about Europe and Hamburgers, when you say medium rare. You get medium rare. They cook the food to your order.
The food is delicious. Later on, I learn that there is an over production of meat in the UK. Farmers are complaining about the prices paid.
Tonight, I am happy to take advantage of this economic anomaly.
Tomorrow will leave London for Paris on the Eurostar.
I did not write a great deal the trip itself. On the trip to Italy, we had over eight weeks. So if we did not do today, there was tomorrow. Also, there was wonderment. Everything was an adventure and unexpected.
We did so much. Even though we often left the apartment around 10:30, we were exhausted by the end of the day. I also found that I needed my morning walks to think about what I wanted to write.
I wrote for a few days in London. I then skipped to Paris for a few days. John, Angela and Caroline were with us for a week in London and then the week in Paris. They flew home from Heathrow on April 17th. Betty and I stayed in London until April 25th.
London is huge. It is easy to get around. But, being a casual tourist, you do as you please. We also walked as often as possible which is the way to learn a city, but does take time. On a guided tour, their schedule will get to the sites needed to say you have seen London. But, I can tell you what flowers were blooming in Kensington Park. I know where the Iran embassy is in London.
Today, we have the two great cultural flagship of the British Empire.
We take the Tube to the British Museum. We arrive relatively early. I cannot image the crowds during the summer. Now, we see school groups from all over Europe, tourists (I am surprised by the number of French tourists), English families on holiday and international tourists.
The British Museum is a very cool place. The core buildings are good. But the layout is modern and efficient. You know it looked different fifty years ago, but it is difficult to visualize the layout as it was then.
We split up. Caroline and I take off for the café. We leisurely study the Mesopotamia period. We comment on the Assyrian. We investigate the Babylonian period. We seek wisdom from the early and middle Kingdom.
And, we view the Rosetta Stone. The stone is not large at all. The stone could easily have been overlooked for centuries. There is nothing remarkable in appearance or size. Like most problems, the solution to reading hieroglyphics was there all the time. It took a French man to stumble across it and the English to confiscate.
The British Museum has a great cafeteria. After lunch, Caroline and I move on to the Greece.
I know a secret. The Parthenon was not destroyed. It still exist. Half of it is in British Museum. The other half is the Louvre. Seriously, it is kind to say that the Earl of Elgin (Thomas Bruce) took "some of the surviving sculptures" after 2,000 years of damage from war and conquest. He took a lot more than "some". The Louvre portion is a result of Napoleon's army theory "it is nailed down, take the entire wall". Elgin's theory was to find the most corrupt bureaucrat he could find and with some "greasing" offer to take the sculptures back to England to protect them.
The British Museum's display of their collection is excellent. The museum has recreated a small Greek tomb/temple. It is impressive.
Caroline and I are now using the Museum map. We have surrendered to the museum. To examine the museum in any detail is two full days. No one does that since large portions may not be of interest to you. For example, I am not interested in Asian art and artifacts. It is a great collection. But, you only have two to three hours.
We are "mummy" shopping. As we search, I am aware of how little I know about the great ancient civilizations. Like the Etrusican display at the Vatican Museum, Western Historians pay so little attention to civilizations. We assume that the Egyptians and Greeks blossomed in a void. The winner gets to write the history books. Walk through the British Museum, you see that stealing on a grand scale is an ancient sport.
We find the Egyptian mummies. Come on admit in, you are thinking about the movie "Night in the Museum" Sequel 3 or something like that. You go to the British Museum to see mummies.
You will be disappoint. Go see them. They are a must. But, as I have often said, "you see one mummy, you have seen them all". Betty, who visited the Museum in the 1970's, mentions that the mummies exhibit is smaller. Makes sense.
When you travel Europe you soon realize how much of an attraction Da Vinci and Michelangelo are. It is a point of great pride for a museum to have a portion of the life production of these two men. The British Museum has a number of exhibits.
We hunt down Michelangelo's cartoon, the Epifania. It is not easy to find since it is right and then left from the mummies. And, yes, I said cartoon. I was not expecting Woody Woodpecker. But the word "cartoon" is difficult to visualize as a Michelangelo. A "cartoon" is the final preparatory work done by the artist prior to beginning the actual painting.
The Epifania cartoon is black chalk drawing on 26 sheets of paper. It is about 80 inches in height. The actual subject of the drawing is unknown. The painting was not started.
We return at the predetermined time to the large circular vestibule which is the gateway to the wings of the museum exhibits themselves. It always surprises me how we actually find each other. The trick is to hover around the souvenir shops or to find me - the café.
It is afternoon. We start for the British Library. The Library has been on everyone's list. But, we are attempting to do it last. Part of the reason is that Library is slightly out of the flow of museums and attractions. It is by itself as an attraction. You cannot walk there. It is a newer building.
You have to go. There is only one room. It is a working research museum so access is by appointment. That does not matter. It is the exhibit room to the left of the escalator that holds the best reason to visit London.
The room is dark with lighted display cases. Very well done. As you move from the handwritten lyrics of the Beatles, Carroll's original manuscript, Magna Carta and Shakespeare sonnets, History is more real. It is that it is that moment when thought is put to paper and the action will follow. Did the author realize what greatness had begun. These were strong willed men and women. But, did they really realize.
The exhibit takes about 30-45 minutes which is great since the library is closing as we leave the building.
The kids discovered on Tuesday a small restaurant within a short walk of the apartment. The American Hamburger has been discovered in Europe. Well, the gourmet cheeseburger has been discovered. This is a chain in London called "Honest Burgers". I am sure the kids found on the restaurant on YELP. Betty had mentioned that the Onion Rings they brought home on Tuesday were the best she has had.
We are going to dinner at Honest Burger. We leave the apartment about 20:00 (8 PM). With John and Angela in the lead and Caroline and I as the rear guard. In London, streets are not straight. They change names frequently. A place you found easily on Tuesday is not easily located on Friday.
The difference is that you try a more direct route. Seriously, in London, you cannot guess on short cuts. John and Angela are confident until after about twenty minutes of walking they realize that we are walking in the wrong direction. It is fine with me. I am seeing great little bars and restaurants.
Logically, they guide us back to a starting point that they are confident of and arrive with 10 minutes.
It is about 19:00 (9PM) on a Friday night. I am concerned and hungry. But there is a table for four on the lower level (basement).
We have cheeseburgers, fries (honest, the fries in Europe are so much better), onion rings and beers.
One other thing about Europe and Hamburgers, when you say medium rare. You get medium rare. They cook the food to your order.
The food is delicious. Later on, I learn that there is an over production of meat in the UK. Farmers are complaining about the prices paid.
Tonight, I am happy to take advantage of this economic anomaly.
Tomorrow will leave London for Paris on the Eurostar.
Wednesday, May 11, 2016
""Now, the red rim of the sun pushes itself over the London cloud-bank"
I look back on this day and it still overwhelms me.
On the agenda for the trip from the beginning was to do something "Harry Potter". Angela and Caroline are big fans of the books and the movies.
We discover that the remainder of the world remains fans also. Tickets to tours and events sold out quickly. Betty managed to get four tickets for the Warner Bros. London Studio Tour. The bus leaves at 18:30 (4:30 PM) from the tour office in London. It will be about a hour and half drive from London to the studio. The studio is twenty miles from the edge of London near Watford. The time will be spent in rush hour traffic.
We are out early. It is Thursday. We leave Saturday. The agenda is the Tower of London. We still have access with our London Pass. We take the Tube to Westminster Abbey. It is a short walk to the Thames boats docks.
There are a number of tour boats and also a commuter boat service (your Oyster Card is valid). Our London Pass includes the "City Cruise" line. All the tour boats are covered. They have outside seating which I am sure is lovely on a sunny July day. Today, we are very happy there is amble indoor seating. The cover is clear fiberglass with a clear view of both sides of the Thames.
For the tourist, London can be divided into two parts. I will name them Tudor and Parliament. The focal of the Parliament is Westminster Abbey and across the bridge Parliament. It is the parks, the palaces, the government, social, museums and shopping. By staying in Parliament, you have visited London.
The Tudor is down river towards the Atlantic. It is different. You have the Tower Bridge, St Paul's Cathedral, The Old Bailey, the Tower of London, The Globe and Greenwich. The area includes many of the newer expensive housing created from river warehouses, wharfs and docks along the Thames. I call it Tudor because the focal is the Tower of London.
The Tower of London is actually a castle. The beginning is with William the Conqueror in 1078. The castle/fortress not only protected London from foreign enemies and controlled river commerce, but also protected rulers from unruly nobles and from the London mobs (you never think of the English as unruly, but the kings of England lived in fear of the London populace as the French kings feared the mobs of Paris).
It is during the reign of the Tudors - Henry VIII and Elizabeth I that the Tower gained its reputation as prison and for execution.
Touring the Castle, museums and the Crown Jewels, takes about 2 hours. It involves a lot of walking and reading. For example, you learn the Tower was successfully overrun by a London Mob. The Tower was a informal zoo as a depository of animal gifts to royalty. Monkeys, lions, snakes and other exotic animals had the run of the place.
The zoo ended with the efforts of the Duke of Wellington who was a director and founding member of the London Zoo. The Duke made the Tower again a military barracks.
The weather has turned wetter and colder. We take the cruise boat back to Westminster Abbey dock. It is about 1:30. We had a quick lunch. London does not do lunches well.
It must be the cost of commercial real estate. Quick restaurants have little seating. Pret a Manger has got to be the largest chain. The sandwiches, pies and deserts are good and the choice is great, but a place to seat is impossible. You can be left standing and eating.
After disembarking, we take the Tube to the station near the Tour Office. It is early so we decide to visit the Royal Mews. "Mews" means "Stables". The Royal Mews is open to the public and actually a great and interesting to spend an hour or two. It is still very much still in use. You can view both historical carriages and current carriages used by the royal family and its member.
After the tour, we begin to look the tour office. We need to arrive early since we ordered the tickets online and there may be some confusion. We have the address and map. We are almost confident. In Europe with its mixture of old, outdated and new, it easy to become lost even with an address and map. In London, this is more true.
London has some of the best and worse examples of architecture in the world. The new construction in London tends to be innovative and trend setting - with nicknames like "loaf of bread", "the toaster" and "beehive'. On the other side, you have Christopher Wren. In between, you have functional ugly.
It is the period of the fifties and early sixties. London needed to be rebuilt. The damage done to London by Germany in WWII was much more extensive than I knew. The British economy was in shambles. So low cost construction - both methods and materials - was the answer to quick occupancy. There was a general irreverence to historical buildings and preservation of heritage. It is always easier to demolition.
The tour office are located inside a commercial office mall. It takes some time, but we resolve the confusion and we board the tour company's double decker bus. There are light, intermediate showers so we are in the inside lower level. It is a full bus and is not comfortable seating.
The windows fog up as we pass through the city at about five miles an hour. Drivers in London are very talented aggressive drivers. As a pedestrian, I actually feel safer in Paris and Rome. First, I know what direction the vehicles are coming from. Secondly, They only want to scare you. London drivers want to hit you - only slightly granted. In London, there appears to be no rules.
London has no freeways. There are no express lanes. There are only a few major routes out of the city and access streets to those large streets are complex and limited.
About 18;30 (6:30 PM), we arrive the Warner Bros Studio complex. The building in front of the parking area is devoted to "Harry Potter". This is not a studio tour. It is an industry. It is somewhat like the Universal Tour in LA. But with only one movie as its theme.
There are a lot of tour groups even at this evening hour. It is an all day event. The tour at your own pace is about two hours. It is an enjoyable and informative two hours.
My thought after viewing the sets, the costumes and art is that these are very talented people and that movies will not be made this way in the future. These artists are losing their profession.
Much of Harry Potter movie sets were actually created. The actors moved in three dimension. The camera moved over an actual "Hogwarts". Granted it was a model "Hogwarts", but a very large and very detailed model.
Artists applied extensive robotics and makeup to create a giant. An artist actually painted all the paintings on the walls. There is train.
Now, there is CGI. Now, actors act in a void against a green screen. Actors voice over the computer generated giants. I am confident that there was use of "green screen" with Harry Potter. But, there was also "things". I doubt that if studios wanted to they could not have a tour of the "Avengers"movie sets. A ride, definitely. I like this better than a ride.
We all note that the movie world is 7/8 scale. It is a smaller world actors look bigger, Actors, in general, are not big people. It does have to do with what the camera sees and how it sees it.
We finish at the cafeteria. We are hungry. I try the "butter beer". Not bad, but once in a lifetime.
Last bus is 21:00 (9:00 PM). I am worried about seating. No problem. The drive back to London seems almost as slow, but I am sure it is our fatigue. The bus has a pre-designated stop for a group to access their hotel. The kids take the initiative. We exit and take the Tube back to the apartment.
I am exhausted. Tomorrow - the British Museum and the British Library.
On the agenda for the trip from the beginning was to do something "Harry Potter". Angela and Caroline are big fans of the books and the movies.
We discover that the remainder of the world remains fans also. Tickets to tours and events sold out quickly. Betty managed to get four tickets for the Warner Bros. London Studio Tour. The bus leaves at 18:30 (4:30 PM) from the tour office in London. It will be about a hour and half drive from London to the studio. The studio is twenty miles from the edge of London near Watford. The time will be spent in rush hour traffic.
We are out early. It is Thursday. We leave Saturday. The agenda is the Tower of London. We still have access with our London Pass. We take the Tube to Westminster Abbey. It is a short walk to the Thames boats docks.
There are a number of tour boats and also a commuter boat service (your Oyster Card is valid). Our London Pass includes the "City Cruise" line. All the tour boats are covered. They have outside seating which I am sure is lovely on a sunny July day. Today, we are very happy there is amble indoor seating. The cover is clear fiberglass with a clear view of both sides of the Thames.For the tourist, London can be divided into two parts. I will name them Tudor and Parliament. The focal of the Parliament is Westminster Abbey and across the bridge Parliament. It is the parks, the palaces, the government, social, museums and shopping. By staying in Parliament, you have visited London.
The Tudor is down river towards the Atlantic. It is different. You have the Tower Bridge, St Paul's Cathedral, The Old Bailey, the Tower of London, The Globe and Greenwich. The area includes many of the newer expensive housing created from river warehouses, wharfs and docks along the Thames. I call it Tudor because the focal is the Tower of London.
The Tower of London is actually a castle. The beginning is with William the Conqueror in 1078. The castle/fortress not only protected London from foreign enemies and controlled river commerce, but also protected rulers from unruly nobles and from the London mobs (you never think of the English as unruly, but the kings of England lived in fear of the London populace as the French kings feared the mobs of Paris).
It is during the reign of the Tudors - Henry VIII and Elizabeth I that the Tower gained its reputation as prison and for execution.
Touring the Castle, museums and the Crown Jewels, takes about 2 hours. It involves a lot of walking and reading. For example, you learn the Tower was successfully overrun by a London Mob. The Tower was a informal zoo as a depository of animal gifts to royalty. Monkeys, lions, snakes and other exotic animals had the run of the place.The zoo ended with the efforts of the Duke of Wellington who was a director and founding member of the London Zoo. The Duke made the Tower again a military barracks.
The weather has turned wetter and colder. We take the cruise boat back to Westminster Abbey dock. It is about 1:30. We had a quick lunch. London does not do lunches well.
It must be the cost of commercial real estate. Quick restaurants have little seating. Pret a Manger has got to be the largest chain. The sandwiches, pies and deserts are good and the choice is great, but a place to seat is impossible. You can be left standing and eating.
After disembarking, we take the Tube to the station near the Tour Office. It is early so we decide to visit the Royal Mews. "Mews" means "Stables". The Royal Mews is open to the public and actually a great and interesting to spend an hour or two. It is still very much still in use. You can view both historical carriages and current carriages used by the royal family and its member. After the tour, we begin to look the tour office. We need to arrive early since we ordered the tickets online and there may be some confusion. We have the address and map. We are almost confident. In Europe with its mixture of old, outdated and new, it easy to become lost even with an address and map. In London, this is more true.
London has some of the best and worse examples of architecture in the world. The new construction in London tends to be innovative and trend setting - with nicknames like "loaf of bread", "the toaster" and "beehive'. On the other side, you have Christopher Wren. In between, you have functional ugly.
It is the period of the fifties and early sixties. London needed to be rebuilt. The damage done to London by Germany in WWII was much more extensive than I knew. The British economy was in shambles. So low cost construction - both methods and materials - was the answer to quick occupancy. There was a general irreverence to historical buildings and preservation of heritage. It is always easier to demolition.
The tour office are located inside a commercial office mall. It takes some time, but we resolve the confusion and we board the tour company's double decker bus. There are light, intermediate showers so we are in the inside lower level. It is a full bus and is not comfortable seating.
The windows fog up as we pass through the city at about five miles an hour. Drivers in London are very talented aggressive drivers. As a pedestrian, I actually feel safer in Paris and Rome. First, I know what direction the vehicles are coming from. Secondly, They only want to scare you. London drivers want to hit you - only slightly granted. In London, there appears to be no rules.
London has no freeways. There are no express lanes. There are only a few major routes out of the city and access streets to those large streets are complex and limited.
About 18;30 (6:30 PM), we arrive the Warner Bros Studio complex. The building in front of the parking area is devoted to "Harry Potter". This is not a studio tour. It is an industry. It is somewhat like the Universal Tour in LA. But with only one movie as its theme.
There are a lot of tour groups even at this evening hour. It is an all day event. The tour at your own pace is about two hours. It is an enjoyable and informative two hours.
My thought after viewing the sets, the costumes and art is that these are very talented people and that movies will not be made this way in the future. These artists are losing their profession.Much of Harry Potter movie sets were actually created. The actors moved in three dimension. The camera moved over an actual "Hogwarts". Granted it was a model "Hogwarts", but a very large and very detailed model.
Artists applied extensive robotics and makeup to create a giant. An artist actually painted all the paintings on the walls. There is train.
Now, there is CGI. Now, actors act in a void against a green screen. Actors voice over the computer generated giants. I am confident that there was use of "green screen" with Harry Potter. But, there was also "things". I doubt that if studios wanted to they could not have a tour of the "Avengers"movie sets. A ride, definitely. I like this better than a ride.
We all note that the movie world is 7/8 scale. It is a smaller world actors look bigger, Actors, in general, are not big people. It does have to do with what the camera sees and how it sees it.
We finish at the cafeteria. We are hungry. I try the "butter beer". Not bad, but once in a lifetime.
Last bus is 21:00 (9:00 PM). I am worried about seating. No problem. The drive back to London seems almost as slow, but I am sure it is our fatigue. The bus has a pre-designated stop for a group to access their hotel. The kids take the initiative. We exit and take the Tube back to the apartment.
I am exhausted. Tomorrow - the British Museum and the British Library.
Sunday, May 8, 2016
"Goddesse" "It's French - for goddess"
This episode is out of sequence. I thought I had published and apparently had not. Obviously, Paris was our last day.
The day begins with Starbucks. As you travel, there is one truth. Money exchanges are expensive. You try to finish the trip with as little on that country's currency as possible. I have been trying to reduce my horde of Euros, particularly, the coins.
Outside the US, there are no $1.00 bills. 1 & 2 euros and pound sterlings are coins. So coins are easy to accumulate. Secondly, because it is often time consuming to come up with exact or reasonably close coins when paying a bill and, to be honest, because of the language, you tend to hand over the largest closest bill you have and wait for change.
I have gotten fairly proficient in using change in my pocket. My solution today is to over tip at Starbucks.
We will take a taxi to the Gare de Nord (train station). Paris and London have a separate station for each direction. In Paris, it is easy if you speak French - the Gare (station) is the name of the direction. Gare de Nord goes North to London.
I know of one exception the night train to Milan also leaves from Gare de Nord. But, that is another story.
We know we will use a taxi. It is beginning to drizzle. Use of the Metro is out of the question. Our memory is that the Gare looks simple on the map but it involves a lot of walking and stairs.
I have no idea as to the cost of a cab. We know what it cost when we arrived and we know what the landlord's handbook says. There is a very good chance that the taxi will accept credit card. I estimate that about 40% do.
So I take 60 euros from the ATM. There goes the plan.
I am a reasonably good traveling companion. Not the best, but not bad either. I am open to try anything. I do like to eat when I am hungry. But, I do get nervous and grumpy about being late for reservations, trains and planes. I like to be early. This is particularly true when I am doing something for the first time.
So I am unhappy. We did not make reservations for a taxi. When Angela and Caroline try the Landlord's Manual, the recommended cab company (the English speaking one is useless and does not sound very trustworthy) and the French one does not answer the phone.
We need to be at the Station, at least, thirty minutes ahead because of security checks. The Eurostar for London leaves at 13:04 (1:04 PM). The tickets are expensive and the trains are full.
It is about 11;30 when we leave to apartment. It is raining. We are on the wrong side of the street. (in Paris, cabs and buses have designated lanes. There are five and we have luggage.
I am not happy and show it. As I said, not one of my better moments. We are moving towards to Metro station as a last resort. But, St Michel Metro is about a 7 block walk. A walk made difficult by trying to hail a cab.
Suddenly, a cab stops on the other side of the street. He waves. I dodge traffic leaving the others to cross more safely. I want salvation. And, I know it when I see it.
The driver says sure we have room. "Hold your carryon on your laps". "You, Monsieur, in front with me ". He turns on the meter and we are off.
We talk to him. The usual questions. "How long?" "Where are you from". We always answer "California". Europeans love anything and anyone from California.
We pull up to Gard de Nord. The bill is 15 euros. I give him 20 euros. I am generous, relieved and I still have too many euros.
Inside we look at the big broad and no Eurostar. The problem with being a stranger in a strange land is the first time is never smooth. If you have the choice, try to travel with a companion that has been to that strange land at least, once and recently.
The Eurostar security and waiting area is on the mezzanine level. You can take the escalator or the elevator. I am frustrated. Caroline follows me and we ask "Information" and move in the general direction of the point. John, Angela and Betty take another tactic.
They get to ticket check-in first. My electronic ticket is not where I think it is. Betty, to the rescue with the paper copy.
My only defense who would think you have to go to the second floor of a train station to catch a train. The answer is that the Eurostar - Paris to London - needs to separate Eurostar passengers from other destinations and there is not room on the platform areas on the first floor.
I buy chocolates with my euros. Liquor in Europe is very expensive, even at duty free shops. Scotch Whiskey, Rum, Gin and Vodka have high tariffs to begin with and that is before the exchange rate. All are less expensive at Costco.
This Eurostar is newer. We have seats facing each other. Other than Angela, who has a French couple with their little daughter sitting with her. I would offer to change places, but I am content and my legs can stretch out. I am even happier that the concession train is next train up. A diet Coke and potato chips calms my nerves.
Apparently, there was an important football match in Paris. Our "standard" coach has a number of blokes on the way home. Nice bunch of guys. They are suffering various degrees of hangover.
In and out of St Pancras station and to a black cab. We get it all in. We give him the address from the reservation (we have learnt to be prepared). Within fifteen minutes, we are at the Millennium Gloucester Hotel in Kensington.
Tomorrow - the rest of the story.
"You have the grand gift of silence, Watson; it makes you quite invaluable as a companion"
It is Wednesday in London. The apartment is working out fairly well. John and Angela's bedroom is too warm. Caroline's room is cool. Our bedroom is just right.
We are all fighting slight colds. We have not experienced jet lag per se. No headache. No sleep disorder. As with the last trip, flying to Europe, you are flying into the new day. You take off in the late afternoon and land mid to late morning the next day. So you go through day/night/day scenario.
What you do experience is traveling 16-22 hours. Of course, not on the plane that is only 10-11 hours. When you consider time to airport, checking in, connections and flight in a confined space, you are physically tired.
Today we have matinee tickets for the theatre (notice spelling - very English). It is London. We will not have visited London properly if we did not go to the West End.
We really wanted to attend a Shakespeare play. But, April seems to be an in-between month. Plays and performances are ending and new performances have not yet begun. Plays and performers sell out quickly. London theatre, similar to New York and Chicago, has discount ticket booths for that days performances. We buy online which is not too bad. There is five of us. That is a large group for discount tickets which are usually one or two seats together.
So what do you do in London until 14:00 (2 PM)? Why, you go to Buckingham Palace to view the changing of the guard.
We arrive about 20 minutes to eleven. We are winging this. Maybe John and Angela have done research. I have no idea what to expect. You line up against the iron fence that circles the entrance courtyard to the Palace. Caroline and I take position quickly and we are in front with a great view. We are about 60 yards from the center of the courtyard and to the right of the gates. John and Angela move to a different position along the fence.
Nothing happens. Well, the two guards on either side of the main door do come to attention individually and walk. The soldiers of the Household Guard are shouldering loaded automatic rifles. The weapons are current model and most likely standard issue. They move with an exaggerated arm swing with the free arm. My first guess is that it was to exercise and keep the legs from cramping. I now think it is a ceremonial review of the grounds.
The changing of the Household Guard is very symbolic. My only point of reference is the US Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. In that case, the ceremony takes about 10 minutes from beginning to end. It does happen every hour and at certain times of the year more often.
This changing of the Household Guard happens most often once a day weather permitting. It involves the changing of the entire regiment not simply a single guard. Also, as opposed to the Tomb guard, this pageantry is affected by the time of the year. The pageant is daily from April to end of July and then only on alternate days for the remainder of the year.
The guards for that 24 hours duty are housed to the right of the main door to the Palace. My guess that the team is an officer and NCO and eight infantry men (as with the Old Guard/Honor Guard for the Tomb, these are trained infantry and are the first line of security).
At the beginning the Officer and NCO appear and inspect the two guards on duty. Then in a ceremonial step with arms swinging and sword held upright, they walk back a forth of the area in front of the Palace. It is definitely ceremonial. It is about 60 yards to the left and turn in a back step and then 60 yards to the left side of the courtyard. They do this 10 times. They must know that ground really well.
The Household Guard wear the large hairy black caps. I presume at one time they were made from black bearskins. The cap is 18 inches in height and weighs about 1.8 pounds. I googled it. The height of the Guards differ. Apparently, as opposed to the US Tomb Guards (6'2") and Old Guard "6'", the Household Guard have no height requirements to serve.
There is no commentary - even whispered. So, as this inspection is happening, you are starting to think - please stop with the walking. Then, you hear the band music playing a regimental favorite. The right gate opens an marches the regiment band followed by a whole company of Guards.
This is the Company of the Guard Team being replaced. There are about 80 soldiers in the courtyard. This officer and NCO ceremonially inspect the courtyard. The same distances, the same walk and the same number of times. Get comfortable, this happens over and over again.
Nothing is happening with the two stationed guards. The guard team to be relieved (replaced) appears and joins their Company in the courtyard. More inspects of the ground beneath their feet.
Again, military music announces the entrance through the left gate of the replacing guards and their company including their own marching band. The music is enjoyable and they do offer up later a few Elton John songs.
Of course, the band has their own ceremonial inspections. More inspections and more walking the grounds. We are about forty minutes into this pageantry and the guards are still at attention in front of their wood cubicle shelter.
With the serenade over, the events begin to move quickly. New guards are posted. The previous guards join their company. The bands and the new company marches out first. The previous guards and their band march out.
The entire pageantry takes slightly over an hour. The crowd is large. I cannot image the size during peak tourist season. You need to go. But, only once. And as always, read about the ceremony the night before. It is always a big help.
John and Angela find Caroline and I. We start to walk. It is about 12:30. Buckingham Palace is very close to Trafalgar Square. We want to be close to the underground station where Betty will meet us prior to the play. We split up. Caroline and I discover the National Art Gallery is a few blocks away. So, of course, it is the café. We do discuss art. I think.
The international call plan proves again worth the money. Betty has taken a taxi. We are on our way to The Prince of Wales Theatre to see "The Book of Mormon". The musical is excellent.The leads are both Americans.
The theatre seating is not well engineered. The seats are not spaced correctly so line of sight is blocked by the people in front of you if they do not sit up very straight and are short. The theatre appears renovated so the expected theatre goer is short and has great posture.
John is bothered the most. The couple in front of him are in love.
With the play over, we are hungry. Angela has a referral to a Ramen noodle restaurant. Now, come on, did you really know that there is such a thing as a Ramen Noodle Bar and that there is a list of the top ten on Yelp. Apparently, London has a lot and they are chains.
Wagamama is in the lower level just off Piccadilly Square. The menu is various types of combinations of Japanese noodles and ingredients. The other half is various types of curry.
We are sake - room temperature as it should be - only poor quality sake is served warm. We do it twice. A beer with curry dish, I am feeling fine.
As we leave, the line is out of the door.
We walk to Coventry Garden for the second time. It has turned slightly colder and still the outside crowds are large. Before taking the Tube back, we do a little shopping at Marks & Spencer (M&S).
Tomorrow. the Tower of London and Harry Potter.
We are all fighting slight colds. We have not experienced jet lag per se. No headache. No sleep disorder. As with the last trip, flying to Europe, you are flying into the new day. You take off in the late afternoon and land mid to late morning the next day. So you go through day/night/day scenario.
What you do experience is traveling 16-22 hours. Of course, not on the plane that is only 10-11 hours. When you consider time to airport, checking in, connections and flight in a confined space, you are physically tired.Today we have matinee tickets for the theatre (notice spelling - very English). It is London. We will not have visited London properly if we did not go to the West End.
We really wanted to attend a Shakespeare play. But, April seems to be an in-between month. Plays and performances are ending and new performances have not yet begun. Plays and performers sell out quickly. London theatre, similar to New York and Chicago, has discount ticket booths for that days performances. We buy online which is not too bad. There is five of us. That is a large group for discount tickets which are usually one or two seats together.
So what do you do in London until 14:00 (2 PM)? Why, you go to Buckingham Palace to view the changing of the guard.
We arrive about 20 minutes to eleven. We are winging this. Maybe John and Angela have done research. I have no idea what to expect. You line up against the iron fence that circles the entrance courtyard to the Palace. Caroline and I take position quickly and we are in front with a great view. We are about 60 yards from the center of the courtyard and to the right of the gates. John and Angela move to a different position along the fence.
Nothing happens. Well, the two guards on either side of the main door do come to attention individually and walk. The soldiers of the Household Guard are shouldering loaded automatic rifles. The weapons are current model and most likely standard issue. They move with an exaggerated arm swing with the free arm. My first guess is that it was to exercise and keep the legs from cramping. I now think it is a ceremonial review of the grounds.
The changing of the Household Guard is very symbolic. My only point of reference is the US Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. In that case, the ceremony takes about 10 minutes from beginning to end. It does happen every hour and at certain times of the year more often.
This changing of the Household Guard happens most often once a day weather permitting. It involves the changing of the entire regiment not simply a single guard. Also, as opposed to the Tomb guard, this pageantry is affected by the time of the year. The pageant is daily from April to end of July and then only on alternate days for the remainder of the year.
The guards for that 24 hours duty are housed to the right of the main door to the Palace. My guess that the team is an officer and NCO and eight infantry men (as with the Old Guard/Honor Guard for the Tomb, these are trained infantry and are the first line of security).
At the beginning the Officer and NCO appear and inspect the two guards on duty. Then in a ceremonial step with arms swinging and sword held upright, they walk back a forth of the area in front of the Palace. It is definitely ceremonial. It is about 60 yards to the left and turn in a back step and then 60 yards to the left side of the courtyard. They do this 10 times. They must know that ground really well. The Household Guard wear the large hairy black caps. I presume at one time they were made from black bearskins. The cap is 18 inches in height and weighs about 1.8 pounds. I googled it. The height of the Guards differ. Apparently, as opposed to the US Tomb Guards (6'2") and Old Guard "6'", the Household Guard have no height requirements to serve.
There is no commentary - even whispered. So, as this inspection is happening, you are starting to think - please stop with the walking. Then, you hear the band music playing a regimental favorite. The right gate opens an marches the regiment band followed by a whole company of Guards.
This is the Company of the Guard Team being replaced. There are about 80 soldiers in the courtyard. This officer and NCO ceremonially inspect the courtyard. The same distances, the same walk and the same number of times. Get comfortable, this happens over and over again.
Nothing is happening with the two stationed guards. The guard team to be relieved (replaced) appears and joins their Company in the courtyard. More inspects of the ground beneath their feet.
Again, military music announces the entrance through the left gate of the replacing guards and their company including their own marching band. The music is enjoyable and they do offer up later a few Elton John songs.
Of course, the band has their own ceremonial inspections. More inspections and more walking the grounds. We are about forty minutes into this pageantry and the guards are still at attention in front of their wood cubicle shelter.
With the serenade over, the events begin to move quickly. New guards are posted. The previous guards join their company. The bands and the new company marches out first. The previous guards and their band march out.
The entire pageantry takes slightly over an hour. The crowd is large. I cannot image the size during peak tourist season. You need to go. But, only once. And as always, read about the ceremony the night before. It is always a big help.
John and Angela find Caroline and I. We start to walk. It is about 12:30. Buckingham Palace is very close to Trafalgar Square. We want to be close to the underground station where Betty will meet us prior to the play. We split up. Caroline and I discover the National Art Gallery is a few blocks away. So, of course, it is the café. We do discuss art. I think.The international call plan proves again worth the money. Betty has taken a taxi. We are on our way to The Prince of Wales Theatre to see "The Book of Mormon". The musical is excellent.The leads are both Americans.
The theatre seating is not well engineered. The seats are not spaced correctly so line of sight is blocked by the people in front of you if they do not sit up very straight and are short. The theatre appears renovated so the expected theatre goer is short and has great posture.
John is bothered the most. The couple in front of him are in love.
With the play over, we are hungry. Angela has a referral to a Ramen noodle restaurant. Now, come on, did you really know that there is such a thing as a Ramen Noodle Bar and that there is a list of the top ten on Yelp. Apparently, London has a lot and they are chains.
Wagamama is in the lower level just off Piccadilly Square. The menu is various types of combinations of Japanese noodles and ingredients. The other half is various types of curry.
We are sake - room temperature as it should be - only poor quality sake is served warm. We do it twice. A beer with curry dish, I am feeling fine.
As we leave, the line is out of the door.
We walk to Coventry Garden for the second time. It has turned slightly colder and still the outside crowds are large. Before taking the Tube back, we do a little shopping at Marks & Spencer (M&S).
Tomorrow. the Tower of London and Harry Potter.
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