"Back to the Future"

There is an Indian wedding. I have to attend an Indian wedding celebration. It is now on my bucket list.

This Saturday night, I am less than pleased that our hotel room is seven floors above the event. The room vibrates starting about 9:00. It is a continual bass drum beat. It starts loud and pounding and becomes louder. If I was dancing, I would be on the tables.

I am in bed trying to sleep. Caroline is sharing the room with Betty and I. She is closest to the window and I am sure that it is worse for her. I saw the wedding guest downstairs when we returned from a light dinner. John and I went for a drink in the hotel bar. The women were dressed for the occasion in beautiful saris. What damage those ladies did to my sleep patterns.

I call the front desk. The music will stop at 11:00. It does. What the wedding party must have paid the hotel for that wedding. Caroline points out in the morning that the hotel must have known about the loud music. After all, this is London. At checking in, the desk should have told us about the wedding and music ending at 11:00. John and Angela did not hear a thing. Their room faced out to the street. Our room faced into the courtyards.

I am still trying to decided if part of my checking in process should include "is there an Indian wedding tonight".

John gained a valuable lesson while having that after dinner drink. "Do not order a mixed drink in Europe, and that includes UK." First, bartenders do not know how to make most American cocktails. Secondly, they are very careful to pour as little alcohol  as possible. Alcohol is expensive. Order less, save money.

My advice is to order wine, a beer, aperitif or "neat" (whiskey, no ice and water to the side). Betty experienced the widest range of attempts at Margaritas possible. To be honest, some of our local US restaurants are poor also. And they have no excuse.

We meet for breakfast. Betty negotiated our stay to include either a full breakfast buffet or a Continental breakfast. We all want to experience ". a "full English Breakfast".

There are ups and downs to a full breakfast. It does include baked beans. It has great tomatoes. The bacon is a cross between thin sliced ham and Canadian bacon fried. Eggs are either sunnyside up poached or scrambled (watery). The "bangers" sausage are somewhat spicy, about the size of a small bratwurst and tasty.

I think I covered the menu well. The entire buffet is large and includes breakfast foods for all tastes. There is coffee for the table which is great. Still no "cream" or "half & half", but it is coffee and lots of it.

The kids leave for the airport about noon. They have a four o'clock flight direct back to the US. We are about 40 minutes from Heathrow. Being Sunday and flying international, better to arrive early. It is goodbye. They all have long journeys ahead of them and back to work tomorrow on Monday. With the time difference, Betty and I do not expect to hear from them until Tuesday.

There is also the issue of communication. Our $40 per phone International Plan expired on the 15th. I have taken the risk of Verizon $10 per day unlimited package. The plan is fine as long as you do not use it. Simply you are only charged the $10 per day if you use minutes, text or data during that specific 24 hour period. If you do, then according to Verizon, you are not charged.

We will see when we get out bill for April. In theory, we will be able to use hotel WIFI for data and text (IMessage uses WIFI not cellular) and Skype or FaceTime for phone calls.

Betty and I are alone. It has been great with the kids. I know we will do it again if they are willing. But, it is nice to be just of the two of us with a TV that works (Paris, despite promises that it would be hooked up, never was) and a decent screen (something other than a TV screen the size of a small laptop).

I have energy. We need a few things like toothpaste. The weather is no bad. It is dry. I decided to find 221 b Baker Street. John and Angela came very close on our first Sunday in London. They had decided to walk back to the Notting Hill Apartment when the London system informed us that the route we needed to take was shutdown. Caroline guided us on the Tube. They walked.

I find that the hotel is on the opposite side of Kensington Park from the Nottin Hill apartment. I walk up Kensington Rd to Hyde Park. I crossover and proceed to get lost - well almost. Since I have cellular for $10. I turn on Google Map and type in 221 b Baker Street. Nothing. Then I remember that the address is fictitious. I type in Sherlock Holmes and there are the directions. Well, at least, directions to the Sherlock Holmes Museum which is almost at 221 b Baker Street.

Apparently, there have been lawsuits about who has the right to the fictitious address and the right to claim that the building there is at the fictitious address. In Doyle's time, construction and buildings on Baker Street ended well prior to the 200 block. It would have been open ground.

Of course, I take photos. I cross the street since I neither need nor want to pay for my photo with the constable in front of the Sherlock Holmes museum. There is no line, but there is a flow of tourist who do.

I am hungry. I just want to sit have a coffee and donut. My salvation is a Dunkn Donut

I walk back on a different route. I am fairly confident of the direction I need to be going. In theory, I am not lost, but I want to see more of London. London, like Chicago, changes ethnic neighborhoods quickly. I pass through a Muslim neighborhood. Arabic store signs are my insight. It is London with different subtitles that is all.

I walk towards the Park. I see another church. It is Catholic. Apparently, the churches in London kept track of the number of believers slain by the opposing belief. It was bloody.

I cross Kensington Park and work my way to the hotel. It is a very pleasant hotel owned by a hotel group based in London. Location could not be better. The Glouster Rd. Underground station is across the street. Internally, the station is current. The outside looks as it did 100 years ago. Albert/Victoria Museum is down the street. The Natural Museum is a little further.

Small restaurants across the street that have takeaway. There is a Starbucks. I am happy.

The hotel is very nice. The staff is efficient and pleasant. The room and bathroom is large by European standards. The bathroom has a shower and shower curtain. The TV has cable.

As with Italy, the most frequent TV show is "Murder She Wrote". I think we both had expectations that we would have this great menu of BBC shows. Yes, there is Midsommer Mysteries, but just like US, the shows are reruns.

Now, Back to the Future. The next blog will be back to the first week in London with the kids. Why, because I can.

"The French wine and cheeses put his ambition to bay"

We are exhausted. We have seen everything on everyone's agenda. Well, not quite yet.

It is our last full day in Paris. The fifth floor is no longer a challenge. The stairs have won. The apartment and the bathroom has gotten smaller. The kitchen and refrigerator are no longer cute. There are clothes everywhere.

We are in Paris. It cannot get any better.

We have different agendas. John and Angela are still up for more sightseeing. They are heading to the Hotel de Invalides and the War Museum. We had run out of time on Tuesday.

Betty, Caroline and I are heading to the Montparnasse neighborhood of Paris. We stayed there on our last visit. We have fond memories. We want to take Caroline.

The area is very close to our apartment. It is a walk through Luxemburg. We take the Metro. Because of destinations and access to the RER, we have not used the Metro often. Also, I think I want to prove that we still remember how to do it. For two weeks, the kids have lead. We want to be on our own.

The London Underground (Tube) is color coded. For example, the Circle is yellow. In Paris, the Metro is numerical and color coded. But, stay with the number.

Today, it is Number 4 line. As with London, you determine direction of the train by its final station. Four stops and we exit at Varin station. The weather is becoming cloudy. We are looking for the cafe' that Betty and I ate at before the train to Milan. We choose Le Select. It is my homage to Hemingway. Once more time. Why not. It would be a shame to say later "why".

The food is good. Not great, but good. There are not a lot of people. Several younger ladies at a table near by. The tourists have not yet arrived.

The French smoke a lot. In the morning, cigarette butts are in the street. Yes, the sidewalks are water down every morning. The young and old smoke. Camel Golds and "roll your own" seem common. You do see some electronic.  I am sure it is coincidence, but France and Italy, two countries with extensive Universal Health Insurance, smoke the most.

You cannot smoke inside public buildings, restaurants etc. But, outside is loosely defined and the cafes' are outside.

As we pay "l'addition" (finely a word I can say), the clouds and wind intensify. It will rain. But, I have my new Parisian umbrella. It is a fold out and cost about 5 euros. It performs up to your expectation of a $6.00 umbrella. It does work which a source of pride and an advantage over my previous Parisian umbrella.

We show Caroline our first hotel in Paris. Betty remembers the little shops around the corner. We shopped a little last time, but we still had 7 weeks to go. We travel light with one European sized carryon and medium backpack. We simply did not have the space.

For this journey, we reduced even more our clothing and shoes. We have room.

Caroline and Betty go into a small household store. I remain outside in the rain testing my Parisian umbrella. It pours. Kids are getting out of school. They run. They are wet. The boys are brave. The girls are cute. They flirt. They are teenagers. No one is jealous of my umbrella.

The rain storm passes and I wonder to the book store across the street. This owner and the map store had been covered their outside stack of books during the rain storm. Most were taken in. I look at the paperbacks left outside. Betty loves Agatha Christie's Poirot. She purchased an Italian version paperback in Rome.

Surprisingly, I find two used paperbacks in good condition. They are in French. Why I mention that I do not know. I like the idea. It is a unique souvenir of the countries you visit and it makes you search in other than souvenir stores. Betty is a smart lady.

I am very proud when I display to Betty and Caroline who are still in the store. Caroline asks if they have "Pride and Prejudices". I return. I ask the owner. He advises me that his store is geography books only. He had bought a lot of books from another store. The mystery books outside happened to have been included in the purchase. Now that is serendipity.

Betty has purchased some items for the house. The owner advises that her store is on the internet and ships quickly.

The sun is out and we stop for coffee at the little cafe' that started our adventure in 2014. It is about 16:00 and we have plans to finish the day walking down the Champs-Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe. John and Angela plan to end their day their also.

We exit the Metro a stop or two early. The weather is changing again. It is windy. I am corrected when I start in the wrong direction. Hell, it is not easy to miss something that big.

Lots of stores and lots of people. We walk by the Marriott. We stop at a café that has protected tables by the large open windows. We can see and can hear the sounds. We order drinks. We are warm and out of the breeze.

Suddenly, there is "Hi". It is Angela and John. What are the odds? I am not sure how they saw us. They are walking back after touring the Arc de Triomphe including walking to the top.

We move tables together and have drinks. We ask questions and review our day. We finish. John and Angela begin walking. Caroline, Betty and I start walking to Arc. It is almost rush hour in Paris. Traffic is heavy. We stand on the corner and take photos for our memories. There are sites to visit and sites to see. The arc de Triomphe is a site to see.

We take the Metro back to the apartment and John and Angela are there already. They walked all the way. I screwed up and got off too early so we walked in the rain.

Dinner is a 20:00 at Chez de Fernand. If we ever return - if any of us ever return - to Paris, please let Chez de Fernand be there. Again, the food is great. The service exceptionally, We are regulars. We laugh a great deal. We have two bottles of St Emilion which is exactly the right wine. I have the chicken with truffles. It is excellent.

What a memory. You wish more friends and family were with you. It is that good.

Tomorrow, we leave for London.

"If you are lucky enough ...then wherever you go for the rest of you life, it stay with you"

We cross the Pont Neuf one more time.

It is a beautiful masonry bridge with a statute of a General in the middle. The Seine is a working river, but not to the extent of the Thames. It is swift and contained on both sides by masonry and brick. You can walk the lower level for a distance on both sides. This afternoon it is sunny and people are having lunch or just talking.

It is the oldest standing bridge in Paris completed in 1607. There is an older bridge, but it has

been rebuilt several times.

It is our fifth full day in Paris and we walking to the Louvre. Everyone has seen the Louvre, at least, once. That is the strength of the attraction of the Louvre. You have a week or a day. You go to the Louvre.

In the morning, we began with Sainte-Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite'. The Island is the heart of Paris. It was the palace and government of the Capetian kings of France. As with England, we often forget that the crown of the king rest uneasy on his head. France, as with most monarchies, had many families (often at the same time) claiming the kingdom.

This particular chapel is still being restored (damaged

from pollution (candles among other) and the French Revolution). Louis IX built this "Holy Chapel" to house his extensive collection of baseball cards. Just kidding. I wanted to see if you were paying attention.

Well, only partially kidding. In medieval times (1000-1300) , the king ruled with the approval of God, or his manifestation on earth, the Pope. One way to show your right to call God your personal friend was to have the largest collection of relics. A piece of old wood becomes a part of the Cross of Jesus once approved by the Pope. The masses are in awe. You rule another year.

I gather that Louis could not pass up a good relic salesman.

The chapel is an excellent example of Gothic architecture and stained glass. It is a long hall with the center altar at the end. There are smaller altars on each side. Where the Romans used concrete and brick, the Gothic builders used glass to reduce the weight to allow them to build higher.

The Chapel windows are speculator. There is a price. Chapel is the only church which charges admission. But, then again, I believe that it is no longer a consecrated church - just antiquity.

The Chapel is part of the Palais de la Cite' which includes the Conciergerie. During the Revolution, this building served as the prison of many including Marie Antoinette. You can view her cell. It is three small rooms. The juxtaposition to yesterday's journey to Versailles is appropriate.

It is worth the viewing.

We walk the right bank to the Louvre. It is about lunch time and I am grumpy and hungry. We quickly enter the Pyramid and down the escalator to the open gallery which is the introduction to the three museums that make up the Louvre - the Richeleau, the Sully and the Denon.


Everyone goes to the Denon - Italian Paintings and the Mona Lisa.

We go to lunch. Betty and I remember the Museum restaurant from our last visit and we induce the kids to join us. I think they would have preferred a baguette. But, I want to sit and have a long beer.

We split up. The kids are on their own. They need the time. Betty and I move to the Denon.  We were to Paris before Italy. Now, we have a better idea of Italian art and its history. I am curious to see the Mona Lisa again. The first time is not enough. There is simply too much anticipation.

The crowd is large so a quick glance. We move on and discover more. Betty is correct the best way is to sit in front of a group of paintings and look. You do not have to like every painting - but you need to decide for yourself.

This time I really began to understand the brush work. I am also again struck by how radical the revolution of perspective and anatomy was. Over a thirty year period, art became humanistic and real. Well, except maybe for Michelangelo whose women look really, really strong.

You can skip the African and American exhibit. We got lost. It is well intended.

It is quickly closing time. Betty and I are lost. My fault. We pass Winged Victory twice and not on purpose. Betty finally gets on the elevator and one of the employees explains how to exit to the main gallery.

I decide to take more run through the Denon. I turn and the Mona Lisa gallery is almost empty. The best time to view the Mona Lisa is 2 minutes before closing. In that short time, I fall in love with the Mona Lisa. I do not understand. I have no great insight. It is historical. De Vinci uses all the tricks of the eye to present a young woman that smiles at you and you remember the smile. Everyone for 400 years until the Impressionist followed and did not do it better.

I met a husband and wife in the elevator. They are walking gingerly and slowly. They are about my age. They will be in Paris for 10 days. They offer their insight as if pleading to be corrected "
lots of walking". I simply answer "Yep". And, point them to the escalator to the exit.

We met at the bookstore. I get lost and the kids have to find me. I am seating where I thought they would be sure to look. I am wrong. They are already outside in the Tuleries de Louvre.

The decision has been made to try to find Angelina's on the Rue de Rivoli. Yelp helps. We walk a few blocks. Angelina's is a must stop. It is old school. Polite service. White cloth. It is very full. There may be food on the menu but we only saw cakes and pastries. Betty orders tea.
Caroline orders hot chocolate. I order Champagne. It is that type of place.

We had to separate. There were no table for five. The waitress advises that Angelina's close at 18:00. We have about 40 minutes. We do not order Angelina's famous pastry is it's Mont Blanc. It is a small mound of layers of marron (chestnut) glace'. It is rich and smooth. One a lifetime, but what a lifetime. A pastry you share. We shared one at Versailles yesterday. Betty does rejects our suggestion to order one so we can taste again.

Caroline and I are lovers of thick hot chocolate. Stand up spoon hot chocolate. Starbucks had years ago a great hot chocolate drink - served in a small cup. It was singular great.

Angelina's is fantastic people watching. When you visit Paris, please go and let me know what you think.

As we leave Angelina it begins to rain. The right side of Rue de Rivoli is covered. The upper floors of the buildings extend to the street. It creates an arched stone canopy the length of the block. You do have to brave the rain as you cross streets and plazas. There are stores for everything, but they tend to be food.

My experience is that the French and Italians love food and seem never to eat at home. In London, you have to look for a place to eat. Paris is like Chicago in the old days. There was a local bar at the beginning of the block, at the middle and the end. Only to start all over again on the next block.
Paris is my kind of place.

We walk in the rain. Of course, since it was sunny this morning I did not bring an umbrella. The rain is heavy at times, but not often. We are wet and tired as we walk to the apartment.

The apartments in France and Europe are unique to an American. First entry to European Apartment buildings is into a courtyard. That entry is guarded by tall, extremely heavy and reinforced doors. There is a code. Enter the code and the gates of heaven or hell open - honest, they could be. They are mechanical. There is a click. The doors swing open. The doors give you about 20 seconds to clear the opening before beginning to close.

It is all very reassuring that the doors could withstand a ramming by a large vehicle. Why, I do not know. But, the doors are the standard and all the residences seem content.

The major crime throughout Europe/England is "pickpockets". I have heard stories from friends and other travelers about the skill level and ubiquitous of this criminal. They are there. You should take the warnings very seriously. But, come on. My recommendations are to keep it simple and enjoy.

Remember "pickpocketing" is a crime of opportunity. It is not personal. Pickpockets look for the easiest and quickest target. They go for volume and the odds are in their favor. Be aware of where you are. Don't flash cash. Don't carry your passport with your wallet - no matter how cool that leather passport case you bought for the trip looks. 

In my case, my mom always told me to keep my hands out of my pockets. She was wrong. Hands in the pockets is great way to hold onto your wallet and phone. looks Since I have practiced all my life, no one suspects my cleverness. Of course, there is the other side. The mother saying to her child - if I ever see you with your hands in your pockets like that old man - no dinner for you.

Tomorrow - our last full day in Paris.

"Paris, Je t'aime"

It is Thursday in Paris. I am at Starbucks. I fought it but Paris does not yet have the concept of takeaway coffee for five and the coffee percolator does not produce drinkable coffee.

Also, we are on Verizon's International plan (there are many) which limits cellular usage to 100 MB for a month. That works fine, but you need to be judicious in your use. That judicious use involves turning off cellular capabilities to limit accidental usage. So, you look for WIFI whenever possible. As the tour books say, WIFI is readily available almost everywhere in Europe. Just be careful as you would be in the States about private information shared on open WIFI.

Starbuck has free WIFI, good coffee, great assortment of muffins, donuts and mocha (if you like mocha drinks, cafes are not your thing) and takeaway. Caroline likes Mocha.

As in Rome with McDonald's, Parisians are there. Although I see more American tourists wonder in. It took a visit to become familiar with the process. The order guy likes exact change or as close as possible. Just order off the menu board.
"Bonjour"
"Bonjour"
"Grande filtered coffee (English term for drip)"
"Yes, dark or light"
"Huh, oh, dark Okay"
"Anything else".
"Yes, Oui. A donut chocolate" (like Italy, donuts are cake with a hole in the middle encased in frosting - very good and they look like donuts)
"For here"
"'No, 'to go'. I mean 'takeaway' "

We quickly are friends. We learn to point and repeat.

So it is interesting to watch other Americans. You can tell that they apprehensive about the language but they want that American coffee (American style coffee is unique and not popular anywhere else - closest is the English "filtered coffee" but they only have skim "skinny" milk).  This may be the first interaction outside the cocoon of the hotel and the guide tour. This is a real day to day interaction.

In general, they do not offer a greeting. The French really do care about that formality. But, they are not rude about it. They are just not as friendly. If you think about it they are right.

Everyone is polite and efficient. But, I do wonder what the tourists think of their experience. Possibly, they go home with the impression that the French are not friendly, reluctantly speak English and make it difficult. Perhaps. I hope not.

Twice, we have been to Paris - the heart of the urban legend that the French are rude and unfriendly. We never had a poor experience. The French are quick to laugh. They are jovial and friendly. They are helpful and efficient. They enjoy you trying to speak their language. They will correct you and switch to English. They are proud of their history. They are proud of their city.

My answer as to why the difference in experience - "Bonjour". "Merci".

As I walk back to the apartment, I wonder why I like Paris so much. There are obvious answers. I grant you all of them. But, they do not answer my question.

Finally, I realize that my affection for Paris and Rome is that these cities embrace you.  Paris leads you to believe that it is your city. I am not alone. I think of Hemingway and others. Paris and Rome seduce you into the feeling that she is yours. You discovered her. Reality is that they are huge impersonal cities, but there is an intimacy. You walk in the morning or night and they are yours.

When you see the Seine from Pont Neuf on a late afternoon. That memory is yours for the rest of your life. You remember your first visit to Luxembourg Gardens. Or the little café on the corner. It is yours. You go back. It does not disappoint. It is different. But, it is yours.

I mentioned earlier our visit to Shakespeare & Co and the little park to the left of the store. It was different. Some of which, I did not like - like the favorite aunt who shows up at Thanksgiving with a new boyfriend. But, she is still your favorite aunt. She is different, but you understand why.

And, I did all this before 9:00 on a Thursday morning.

"Never interrupt your enemy when he is making a mistake"

We take the RER from St Michel to Versailles.

Like London and Rome, the transportation systems are intertwined. The metro/underground will take you to the train you need to take. The trick, of course, is to know what train to take and, therefore, what station you need to be at when the train leaves.

Today, the St Michel station serves both the RER and the Metro. In London, it is stairs. In Paris, it is walking and stairs. Paris Metro makes sense and is logical. Know where you are going and you can get there. The Paris systems run parallel to each other. In London, they are on top of each other.

So, you can have a quarter mile walk to connect to your next train. That is unusual but it can happen. The hike will always involve stairs - up and down. There is always some poor woman with a large, large suitcase trying to pull it up the stairs. I say "woman" because that I saw the most. I cannot think of a reason.

People do offer to help and occasionally it is accepted.

The RER trains are comfortable and do become crowded during peak hours. We leave about 10 AM so we avoid the morning commute. Versailles lies in Zone 4 so separate tickets are required. The automated ticket machines are easy to use. Pick a language and follow instructions. Credit Cards are accepted and recommended. The machines do not always give change.

But - a strong "but" - you have to know your pin number. Europe has had chip cards for years. A European credit card user will either use his pin or in some cases, swipe their card - think Apple pay ,but better and smoother. Only, US cards require signature.

You can speak prefect French, but your credit card will give you away every time.

The problem is that in most cases, your credit card company will not give you the pin for security reasons. Hint: if all else fails, what last 4 digits follow you everywhere you go.

The trip to Versailles is visually more pleasant than the train to Charles De Gaulle Airport. You pass the Eiffel Tower and run parallel to the Seine. The city becomes modern with corporate architecture and residential multi-story buildings. The new "downtown" Paris with high rises is on the horizon to your right.

As you leave the city, the homes become more suburb and middle class. They are charming with a splash of new thrown in.

Versailles is the end of the this line (you want the stop Chateau De Versailles - yep, there are a number of Versailles stops along the way.

We quickly join the flow. When in doubt when a tourist trying to find the attraction, follow the crowds. Only a very slight chance that there is a cliff.

From the station to the gates of Versailles is most likely 800 yards. The main street is offices and souvenir shops and eateries. Turn right at the corner, there is Versailles flanked on both sides by late 1700s buildings.

Versailles is a huge complex of buildings. You follow the signs. The French do not give quarter - Most other countries which attract tourists have their language on the top and English below - the French give no quarter. It is in French - deal with it.

It is really impossible to understand the size of Versailles because you do not see the entire complex. It is expensive to restore and I am sure the stables/kitchens are high on the list of most tourists. (although we saw the Royals Mews (stables in London and Henry VIII kitchens at Hampton Hill).

It is crowded. There are French school groups and a few "flag" groups. Versailles, like most of the French historical sites, are really recreation. The period of 1790 to 1880 was not kind to the preservation of the contents of these great buildings and homes.

So the furniture, paintings, wall coverings and sculptures are not originals, often on loan. The furniture gives you a feeling of the opulence of the period. But, the furnishings do not really do justices to the rooms.
.
The "Hall of Mirrors" is impressive. It is smaller than you than expect. The great hall in the Louvre is more impressive in length and height. Compared to a visit the Lamps Plus, the "Hall" is tame .When you remember that mirrors were still rare and expensive in 1700 and these are floor to ceiling.
you

It is the history that takes hold. You can sense how these buildings and this hall must have overwhelmed. What can advantage that Louis had when dealing with friends and enemies. Anything was possible for a man who could have this.

The French never lost a war. Or, at least, they never documented any. As you pass into a huge hall with vast paintings of military history (victories), you notice that the early kings were military men. The early kings lead from the front. As the centuries, the kings lead at the end of the conflict. At the end, the generals win the battle.

What surprised me was that Napoleon is so prominent at Versailles . His victories and carination are well advertised. Napoleon did begin the restoration of Versailles and Napoleon is definitely a national hero.

Two distinctly different perspective of Napoleon. The British and French. Greatness is not necessary resolved with time.

Our lunch was at Angelina's. Angelina's is famous for their deserts. Baguettes and desert and an opportunity to sit down. When you visit Versailles plan to stand and walk a great deal. I cannot imagine how crowded and difficult it is too move around in the height of tourist season.

The Queen's chamber are closed. The apartments of two of Louis' spinster daughters are open. If you want a strange and sad story, I would read about Louise and Sophie. To be princesses is not fun.

Finally, we walk the Gardens at Versailles. The gardens live up to their reputation. Size does not describe them. Even on a somewhat cold and windy day, they are beautiful and splendid.

We walk. John leads. We seek the small palace that Louis XVI built in the Gardens for a homesick Marie Antoinette. Styled as an Austrian country home, the retreat is neither small or rustic. Louis built a small Austrian village near by to help Marie feel more comfortable during the transition to the queen of France. And, you thought Walt Disney thought of that first.

We walk the gardens which mover from formal to informal to managed wild. There is crafted "ruin" with water and a trail which apparently leads nowhere since we all get lost.

It is the end of the day, we take our final walk and discover that a portion of the gardens are still part of the real world. There is a park which most likely is adjacent to the Gardens but for practical purposes of the experience. We walk by parents following their kids. Ladies walking small dogs. Men running. They say "bonjour". No tourist would be here.

People live in those buildings. Versailles is obviously upper middle class. People do People things even when the view from the kitchen window is a Palace.

We are home. I fall asleep after a short meal. Kids wake me up at about 10:30 to go for Falafel and Nutella filled crepes.

"I see a beatiful city and brillant people.."

Paris is alive and well. The streets are full. The cafes are full. People still sit outside and sip coffee. The French still cluster in groups. People do not shun non-French. There are not armed soldiers at every corner. The metro and train stations are not armed camps.

There is security. The media has it wrong. Media makes the interviews fit the agenda - higher ratings. The French and the English are living their lives and enjoying.

We begin the morning with croissants and baguette and cheese. The apartment has an old fashion metal coffee percolator. I cross my fingers and hope I remember making coffee for my mom and dad over 50 years ago.

It works but the coffee is not great. It is very strong and flavor is flat.

We have decided on our order of sightseeing. It is regulated by the four day Paris Museum Pass. The Pass allows entry into all the major museums and allows for fast entry. The lines even in spring can be extended so it is an advantage. The Pass is a great idea and recommended. But, the Pass begins at the first hour of use and ends 24,48,72 or 96 hours. You need to plan to attend the sites within the allowed time frame.

Versailles is on the list, but it is a full day excursion. The Louvre, D'Orsay, Norte Dame and multiple museums are also on the list. The good news is that we discover that we have sun light until 8:30 which gives us time. The museums are open to 18:00 (6 PM) so we can cover a lot of ground.

Tuesday is Norte Dame and the D'Orsay as the targets. Last visit to Paris, Betty and I did not go into the church. The line was long (the church is free) and we knew that we would see a ton of churches so we walked around and discovered a great little garden at the rear of the church.

This time we enter the Church. I am glad we do. It is both what I expected and more. It is a working church and you can imagine the history that has occurred. You can see the damages of riots and revolutions on the walls. Like most of the French historical monuments, you are looking at facsimiles. The furniture and paintings are reproductions. The best guess. At Norte Dame, the paintings date from 1870s.

I can understand why Norte Dame was a target. It lies on the island in the middle of Seine which was the heart of French Government. It would have been the most visible of the two headed monster that consumed their labor without contribution. The church took tithes and the state taxes.

In 1790, the towers of Norte Dame would have dominated the Paris skyline. Paris is a new city. Damaged by riots, mobs and multiple revolutions over a hundred years (1790-1871), Paris is the original urban renewal project. Wide boulevards are to allow swift movement of troops into and around the city. Frame structures were replaced with up scale housing and to reduce the city's exposure to fire.

It is about a 40 minute walk around. We leave. We avoid the line of tourists waiting in line to claim to the top of one of the bell towers.

I am confident that Betty will want to see her garden again. This time it will be spring. The park is beautiful. Flowers are planted and in bloom. The trees are in bud and some are flowering.

We cross the bridge of lovers (Pont des Arts) - the bridge that was covered with locks. Lovers have over the last few years expressed their devotion by locking these locks on the bridge.

Last year, the bridge was covered. This year the bridge is being repaired due to the damage resulting from the excise weight of hundreds of thousands of metal locks attached to the bridge.

As the day before with Caroline, Betty and I take John and Angela to Shakespeare & Co.. I do not think they see what we see. It is a small, cramped bookstore. It is crowded with tourists. I can understand, but it is still our place. I think every visitor develops an infinity for certain places. Those places become their own. In Rome, it is the Spanish Steps.

When we return to those cities, we stop for coffee or glass of wine. Regardless, that these sites are shared with thousands. It is quietly ours. It changes. But, still yours.

We take the RER to D'Orsay Museum. You can purchase a five day pass for the Paris Transportation system which includes the metro (subway) and RER (think metro train). The pass is sold by Zone 1,2,3,4 ... Almost all the tourist locations are within Zone 3. Versailles is in Zone 4. You buy a separate ticket.

It is a small paper ticket about the size of movie ticket. It is easy to loss. In London, their pass card is plastic credit card; rechargeable: excess is refundable and more universal on their transportation system.

We have lunch in the Cafe' Campana as we did last year. The food is good. The environment is excellent. The restaurant is on the same floor of the majority of the Impressionists. One of our favorite places. It is familiar and not formal. You can pay your bill and wander within feet to Monet.

We separate. I wonder off. The exhibits are crowded with school groups. There are more Monet this year I am starting to appreciate Sisley.

I am tired. I visit Van Gogh. An old friend, but he has a lot of visitors. The "flag" groups have arrived.

I venture further into the museum to non-Impressionists. Impressionism was revolutionary. A huge jump in the execution of art. It was a revolt against the existing styles. As you investigate the various halls, it is evident.

I move into the Tissot (1836-1902) exhibit. On the front wall, there is a large painting of well dressed men sitting in a garden. There is a plaque on the wall describing who the attendees of this meeting of luminaries in the French government are.

Number 7 is a far distant relative and a Baron no less. My energy levels spike. I am running around the museum to find the kids and Betty to show them the painting. They think it is cool. But, not as much, as I do.

It is late afternoon but still time to see more. John leads us in the direction of the Hotel de Invalides and Napoleon's Tomb. It is a much longer walk than we thought.


We accidently walk past Rodin's Museum. Betty has missed the museum twice over the years. It is karma. The museum will close in an hour. Betty leaves us to go

We walk about another mile. This time there are soldiers at the gates to inspect bags. The building  is baroque and therefore, gaudy. I am not a fan of Rococo ( quick, do a google search)

But, it is interesting. Napoleon is glorified in statutes and paintings. His victories are in stone. I believe I have been told that Napoleon's body is deep within seven tombs. Not only to protect the body, but also to make sure he stays where they put him.


We walk over to the military museum. It is late and closing time. John and Angela say they will return (they do). I just want to sit down and go home.

Betty calls. The Rodin Museum has closed. It is a great museum. Betty is sitting at a café waiting for us. A short walk to the Metro and we are home.

"It's too real and too beautful to ever let you forget anything"

It is Monday.

Paris begins to be a working city again. I take my morning stroll to orientate myself. Where am I?

Cities have a character to themselves. A few moments in Chicago, New York, San Francisco, you know where you are. You feel Paris. The sounds are European. The car have horns frequently used and the motorbikes have a unique sound. The emergency vehicles have the sound so familiar to movie fans.

Paris sounds are great. I have to admit that I have fallen in love with Paris. I was apprehensive about Paris and Parisians on this trip. Our previous visit was enjoyable and friendly. We found that contrary to the urban legends the Parisians have no problem with people attempting to speak French and are more the quick and happy to speak English with you.

They are not angels. They will give a quick look if you are not quick on the uptake of when to put the credit card in the handheld credit verification machine. But, it is the same look you will see in any small or big city where you are not a local.

As it London, I cannot understand why "Uber" exists. Cabs are ubiquitous even in the rain. They are clean, uniform and metered. You do not tip (you do round up as in London). Most importantly, they are polite and knowledgeable about their city. Metro is less expensive than London (wow) but for a group over 3, taxi is definitely affordable and "door to door".

I discover that we are within the District 6. Picasso and Balzac is just down the street. We are on the Left Bank and the area quickly blends into the French Quarter.

As I walk I pass the cafes and find that we are on the opposite side of the Luxembourg. We stayed our last time in Paris within blocks of the same gardens. Our visit was in October. So, we have seen fall and now spring..

I walk quickly through the gardens. I want to save for later when we can all enjoy.

I walk to the Sorbonne and the Pantheon. The Sorbonne is a disappointment. It is very much an institutional school. It has no character or charm. After centuries of student riots and uprisings, the rulers of France intended blandness.

I circle back to the apartment. With the gang awake, Angela and I go shopping for lunch and breakfast. Angela handles the language. She enjoys. The two ladies at the boulangerie (bakery) are delightful. They have it down to a science. The younger lady takes the orders in a mixture of English and French (depends how much you try) and the older lady tallies on the register and collects the payment. Works great.

Deserts look great. They have Napoleons, but, of course, they are not called Napoleons so you point and gesture.

We take off for the day. A slow walk in the late morning. It is cool, but not quite the chilling cold of London. As we walk to the park, rain begins to look more and more likely.

The trees are not quite in bud. The flowers are planted and the ground is green. We stop at a café in the park. Always expensive, but always a memory.

(comment: the euro on this trip is about 1.12 to the US dollar, on the last trip, the euro was @ 1.27 so it is noticeable. Advice: when traveling, it does make a difference to use credit cards which do not have foreign currency charge (1%-3%) and debit cards which reimburse for ATM fees and currency)

We stop by the men playing Boules (Petanque). We play Bocce in Arizona. Same game, but different in style and execution. Boules takes experience to even play, Bocce is friendlier to beginners.d

It pours. We have forgotten umbrellas. A word on English and French weather forecasting - you would think that with 5,000 miles of ocean in front of them that they can see storms or cold fronts accurately.

We stay medium dry/medium wet under a roof where men are playing chess. As the rain turns to shower, we look for the Pantheon and lunch. John and Angela pick a crepe restaurant within a block of the Pantheon.

I have an omelet. Everyone else has various types of crepes.

Eighteen months ago, we never saw "crepes" or "cheeseburger" in Paris. No, the food is everywhere. Waffles also. Crepes are especially the "food". It is the "street food". Available, almost anytime but breakfast. The filling of choice is Nutella. But, everything is everything.

We walk to the Church of Saint-Sulpice. John and Angela go in. Caroline, Betty and I take photos. We separate. The three of us walk to The Shakespeare & Co.. Betty and I want to show Caroline. We want to revisit a new old friend.

It has changed. They have added to the right with the acquisition of the building to the right. It is small. There is now a coffee shop at the end of the building. Things have to change.

Strangely. it is crowded by tourists. It has always been tourists, but tourists who knew who Hemingway, Pound, Fitzgerald, Ford and Elliot were. These tourists have to ask and then wonder "who".

The coffee shop fits in. Young people trying make a living. The coffee and tea are tasty and we share a piece of cake.

It is a second date with a girl who will be a good friend, but not the girl of your dreams.

Back to the apartment for a dinner of bread, cheese and wine. No TV. I was looking forward to watching French TV.

Tomorrow. Musee D'Orsay.