The weather holds.
I am consistently reminded of the pride of the Scots in their heritage. The Scots are proud of their centuries of strife and troubling history with England. Scotland is tied to England by the Stewart Kings. If not for that historical joining, the Scots would be less tolerate of the British.
Gaelic is spoken on the streets. You hear it when, as a passerby, the conversation is private. The museums stress the uniqueness of the Scottish history. At the same time. Scotland is a global nation. It relies on migration for its work force.
I have resumed my travel routine. I now start my day around 6:30AM. I walk to Tesco Express for a sweet roll and then another three blocks to Starbucks. I seat on the upper level and use WIFI to update my world.
An objective on this trip is to become comfortable with exchange rates and handling monies. I did not start well. But, I am now improving. The hard issue is the coins. The Euro and the Pound Sterling use coins for one and two Euro and Pound.
While your pockets fill with coins, you are never sure that you have given the correct amount or are getting the correct change. The frequent response is to hand over a twenty pound/Euro note and wait for change. Or, to open our hand filled with loose coins and let the clerk pick out the amount needed.
All these are acceptable. But, you are too soon identified as an inexperienced tourist. I want to move up from inexperienced to unskilled tourist.
Of course, I bring back a breakfast roll.
This is our last full day in Edinburgh. Our focus is Edinburgh Castle.
Betty's foot is still bothering her. She has been remarkable. The day will require a lot of climbing and walking. Her pace will be slower. She very kindly volunteers to split up for the day.
Edinburgh Castle dominates the cityscape. On an extinct volcano, the castle rests on the high ground of the city. Edinburgh is surrounded by hills with the Water of Leith (Leith River) flowing through the city to the Firth of Forth and then to the North Sea. Edinburgh is a port.
There have been 26 sieges over its 1,100 year history. It is the "if you build it, they will siege it".
Edinburgh Castle was involved in various conflicts including the Wars of Scottish Independence and the Jacobite rising of 1745. Notice the reoccurring theme - religion and the English - and often they are the same.
The Castle has earned the title "the most besieged place in Great Britain and one of the most attacked in the world". In 1916, Edinburgh was bombed (23 bombs) by two German Zeppelin with the the Castle's "One O'clock Gun" was fired in defense. It did not hit anything.
You enter the Castle through the main gate by crossing the parade grounds. The grounds are the stage for the Royal Edinburgh Military Ground. A major attraction in August, the Tattoo has developed into a complexity of performances by invited variety of performers and marching bands from around the world. I have viewed on YouTube and it is impressive. With a focus on formation marching, the highlight is the massed pipes and drums of the Scottish regiments.
You climb. There are various levels to the Castle. As with Stirling Castle, the Castle buildings are a mixture of museums, restored rooms that exhibit various periods and occupation and a small military barrack.
I tour the several regimental museums, the Scottish National War Memorial and the National War Museum of Scotland. It is easy to note that Scotland has given a great deal in the creation of the British Empire. It is a constant reminder how devastating World War I was to Britain and Scotland.
From the parapets, the view is impressive. During the day, I will climb a number of hills and high points with outstanding vistas. the operative word in Edinburgh is climbing.
The restaurants within the Castle are full. So, I head to the Deacon Brodie Pub which is a short walk from Castle. Deacon Brodie is a well known , colorful figure in Edinburgh lore. The Deacon was a respected cabinetmaker (locksmith) with access to keys of the homes of the Edinburgh wealthy. For almost 20 years, he paid his gambling debts with thefts. An estimated 40,000 people watched his hanging.
The pub is full. I find a place at the bar, order a pint of a local brew and plan my afternoon and lunch.
I cross the Royal Mile. St Giles Church is the
principal place of worship of the Church of Scotland (Presbyterianism)
in Edinburgh and focal point of worship for almost 900 years. The
present church dates from the late 14th century and is an active church.
The Protestant leader and theologian, John Knox, is buried in the
kirkyard of the church (now a paved parking lot in front of church - the
site is noted by a plaque in the tarmac).
The stained glass windows are impressive. The vast majority of the glass was installed during the middle of the 20th century.
Lunch. I decide that when in Scotland you should try local cuisine. There is a
burrito shop on North Bridge Street about a five block walk.
Come on, down deep in your heart, you would want to try a burrito. Actually, Mexican food is popular. There are a number of Mexican restaurants.
This is more of a "catch all" place. You order at the bar and pay. The burrito is a an interesting interpretation. It is beef, rice and cheese rolled in a flour like tortilla and then grilled like a panino. It is not a burrito. It does energize me.
We have focused on Old Town. I now adventure out. I turn right to The Royal Mile. We had covered this side on Sunday. I have not destination in mind. I am a wanderer.
After a few blocks the crowd thins. I pass the very modern Scottish Parliament Building at the end of the Mile. I turn at the Palace of Holyroodhouse and the Queen's Gallery.
I start to realize the height of the old buildings in Old Town and New Town Edinburgh. They are built from local stone. Because of the hills and elevated streets you are not aware that the buildings are often four stories high. I thought that to build to that height the base width had to be substantially wider to support the weight of the higher floors with the higher floors walls thinner. Or, some type of buttressing of the walls.
Obviously, I am wrong. These stone buildings appear straight and self supporting (with no obvious superstructure). They are easy to admire and comfortable to look at. More than the castles, my memories will be of this walk.
I turn and retrace my steps for a few blocks. I turn left and walk a few blocks to Carlton Street. There is a small park to my left. Why not. There is a hill to climb and I need to walk off lunch.
Eureka. This is the joy of no schedule. No tour. This is Carlton Hill.
It is blustery at the top of the top of the hill. It is the 360 degree vista of Edinburgh. The Hill is a hodgepodge of monuments that only adds to the private feeling to the hill.
There are more visitors at the top of the hill than expected. There are tourists and school groups. There is a monument to Nelson (mandatory in UK). An unfinished national monument formed by Roman columns. Robert Burns, The Political Martyrs Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument and the City Observatory.
Now, I have to start working my way back to the hotel. I turn right towards North Bridge Street.
My goal is the Waverly Train Station. We are leaving by train to Glasgow tomorrow. I want to stop at the station's kiosk to print our tickets. I ordered on line and as usual, I am apprehensive.
I checked the Internet and there appears to be only one major station in Edinburgh. I want to make sure that we arrive in plenty of time tomorrow. So, I will print the tickets today.
What I find out later is that UK tickets purchased on line are "all day" - miss the train, take the next train. Ticket will work. Scots Rail is great.
This is the first lag of our journey through Scotland - Edinburgh to Glasgow to Oban and back to Glasgow for a flight to London. The Glasgow to Oban is by train and bus. The Internet information lacks transparency and reassurance.
Waverly Station is a five minutes from the hotel by cab. It is what you expect - large and busy. Well land out and flows. The only note is that it is a long escalator ride from the street to the gates.
The process is easy at the kiosk. Input the code - I created a problem with keeping track of the various codes on my phone - and the little colored pieces of stiff paper are printed and dispensed.
I am relieved when the first three drop. I pick up my tickets and walk away. The only problem is that there are four little pieces of paper. I left a ticket in the machine. I took the receipt, summary and one ticket. I left a ticket. I do not realize until when I got back to the hotel.
I walk up Princes Street. Princes Street is a commercial avenue. Shopping and business offices are on the far side of the street. It is now the beginning of Rush hour - Edinburgh is going home.
On my side of the street, there is a small park that runs along the street. I know that I have to turn back towards The Royal Mile. Princes Street is lower (notably lower) than Old Town.
I find a street that runs past the National Art Gallery. I climb stairs - stairs - stairs. As I rise through the buildings on either sides - I re-enter the tourist area and exit through Writers' Guild Close.
Of course, a stop at a coffee shop. A stop at Tesco Express for dinner in the room.
Tomorrow - the adventure begins.
Friday, February 22, 2019
Thursday, February 21, 2019
"Enchanting ...(Edinburgh) shall make a delightful summer capital when we invade Britain" Joe Goebbels.
Monday in Edinburgh.
The weather has changed. It is cloudy. There were showers over night.
I am a person of habit. I need coffee and a biscuit. The hunger is immediate when I wake up. Hotels are often expensive. Ten Hill requires their full breakfast menu in order to get a coffee (@10 pounds sterling).
I awake normally about 6AM. That also presents a problem since most coffee shops do not open to 8AM at the earliest or later. The exception - drum roll, please - Starbucks. I would prefer local. But, Starbucks works for the first cup.
A benefit of this search is that I wander the early morning streets. There is not yet the rush as people move to work and school.
Edinburgh appears to be a young person's city. Attendance at Edinburgh University influences the perception. As I spend more time in Scotland, my belief is that World War I and World War II decimated the population. Today, Scotland's population is @ 5,254,800 (2018) and is increasing by 0.6% per annum.
As people pass, I note that the Scots are tall and fit people. I am not short. I feel the need to improve my posture. It does not work, but a week of effort cannot hurt.
There is no shortage of coffee bars. But, it 7:15M. I keep walking. With no crowd, I see things. J. K. Rowling loved coffee and was universal in her patronage to Edinburgh coffee shops. I think I found four, maybe five plaques with "J.K. Rowling slept here". Oops, drank coffee and dreamed of Hogwarts.
All closed. I am retracing to High Street. Of course, Starbucks is open. It appears small. I take my order and find a seat. Typically, I finish and realize that there are stairs to a second level where there is a large sitting room.
I meander back to the hotel. I had a sweet roll at Starbucks. But, I need to find something for Betty. Ah. there are limited choices. Gregg's and Tesco Express. Tesco Express has Krispy Kreme. I pick Tesco.
I share the language. I am somewhat familiar with the British monetary system. But, that first time you buy a donut in a strange place, you are nervous. The uneasiness is when you speak or fumble for money, everyone within a mile will know you are not a world renowned traveler. You are to be ignored, or graciously, forgiven.
I actually do well. Normally, I use the self service out. But, with the donuts, I must use the cashier line. Very helpful. Very nice. I am now committed to mastering to British coinage.
Our routine is to leave the apartment or hotel about ten.
The coffee shops are open. We are hungry. Nothing appeals to us on The Royal Mile. We turn on George IV Bridge Street and shop for a restaurant. It is not easy. With government offices, banks and professionals, Edinburgh eats well.
We select the Elephant House. The restaurant fills quickly. The mussels and beer are tasty.
There is a light mist and chilly. After a adventurous crossing of George IV Bridge Street, we turn left onto Chambers. Destination is the National Museum of Scotland.
The museum is remarkably small. The exhibits are sincere. You can pace yourself to move quickly. I would to have seen more of the history of Edinburgh as a city. Obviously, the city itself is the best museum. You are walking in the streets of poets, scientists, body snatchers, heroes and villains. As a small city, it is more immediate.
It is a great way to spend a quiet, chilly afternoon. This museum is adjacent to a newer structure - same museum. There is an elevator to the top and an observation floor with a panorama view of Edinburgh.
It is cloudy. A brief chat with others on the tower. Elevator down. Coffee at a bookstore.
Blackwell Bookstore is a well known name in the UK. Our first experience was in Oxford. The coffee shop is Nero (again) - London. Blackwell seems to be University oriented. The University of Edinburgh is across the street.
The titles are seminars in college. I look for Christie and Austen. Not academic. We do buy a few souvenirs (books and paper/notebooks make great souvenirs - you actually, use them)
We walk back to the hotel. It is shopping at Tesco Express for supper.
The weather has changed. It is cloudy. There were showers over night.
I am a person of habit. I need coffee and a biscuit. The hunger is immediate when I wake up. Hotels are often expensive. Ten Hill requires their full breakfast menu in order to get a coffee (@10 pounds sterling).
I awake normally about 6AM. That also presents a problem since most coffee shops do not open to 8AM at the earliest or later. The exception - drum roll, please - Starbucks. I would prefer local. But, Starbucks works for the first cup.
A benefit of this search is that I wander the early morning streets. There is not yet the rush as people move to work and school.
Edinburgh appears to be a young person's city. Attendance at Edinburgh University influences the perception. As I spend more time in Scotland, my belief is that World War I and World War II decimated the population. Today, Scotland's population is @ 5,254,800 (2018) and is increasing by 0.6% per annum.
As people pass, I note that the Scots are tall and fit people. I am not short. I feel the need to improve my posture. It does not work, but a week of effort cannot hurt.
There is no shortage of coffee bars. But, it 7:15M. I keep walking. With no crowd, I see things. J. K. Rowling loved coffee and was universal in her patronage to Edinburgh coffee shops. I think I found four, maybe five plaques with "J.K. Rowling slept here". Oops, drank coffee and dreamed of Hogwarts.
All closed. I am retracing to High Street. Of course, Starbucks is open. It appears small. I take my order and find a seat. Typically, I finish and realize that there are stairs to a second level where there is a large sitting room.
I meander back to the hotel. I had a sweet roll at Starbucks. But, I need to find something for Betty. Ah. there are limited choices. Gregg's and Tesco Express. Tesco Express has Krispy Kreme. I pick Tesco.
I share the language. I am somewhat familiar with the British monetary system. But, that first time you buy a donut in a strange place, you are nervous. The uneasiness is when you speak or fumble for money, everyone within a mile will know you are not a world renowned traveler. You are to be ignored, or graciously, forgiven.
I actually do well. Normally, I use the self service out. But, with the donuts, I must use the cashier line. Very helpful. Very nice. I am now committed to mastering to British coinage.
Our routine is to leave the apartment or hotel about ten.
The coffee shops are open. We are hungry. Nothing appeals to us on The Royal Mile. We turn on George IV Bridge Street and shop for a restaurant. It is not easy. With government offices, banks and professionals, Edinburgh eats well.
We select the Elephant House. The restaurant fills quickly. The mussels and beer are tasty.
There is a light mist and chilly. After a adventurous crossing of George IV Bridge Street, we turn left onto Chambers. Destination is the National Museum of Scotland.
The museum is remarkably small. The exhibits are sincere. You can pace yourself to move quickly. I would to have seen more of the history of Edinburgh as a city. Obviously, the city itself is the best museum. You are walking in the streets of poets, scientists, body snatchers, heroes and villains. As a small city, it is more immediate.
It is a great way to spend a quiet, chilly afternoon. This museum is adjacent to a newer structure - same museum. There is an elevator to the top and an observation floor with a panorama view of Edinburgh.
It is cloudy. A brief chat with others on the tower. Elevator down. Coffee at a bookstore.
Blackwell Bookstore is a well known name in the UK. Our first experience was in Oxford. The coffee shop is Nero (again) - London. Blackwell seems to be University oriented. The University of Edinburgh is across the street.
The titles are seminars in college. I look for Christie and Austen. Not academic. We do buy a few souvenirs (books and paper/notebooks make great souvenirs - you actually, use them)
We walk back to the hotel. It is shopping at Tesco Express for supper.
Saturday, February 16, 2019
"Historians from England will say I am a liar, but history is written by those who have hanged heroes"
Scotland is a land defined by water.
Betty had planned ahead and has a full day tour reserved for us. We do not drive. We rely on public transportation. The limitation is that you miss the sites that can only be reached by car.
We leave the hotel around 8 AM. The Highland Experience tour bus loads at 8:30 and leaves 9 AM from Cafe Nero in the Old Parliament area. I am a little confused by the exact location since we have only an address. I rush Betty and take an indirect route. We still arrive about fifteen minutes early with time for coffee.
This corner is the central departure point for tour buses leaving Edinburgh. This side of the Royal Mile (Edinburgh Castle and St Giles Church) is blocked off from vehicular traffic except from 7AM to 9AM for the various tour buses. I am starting to relax. There are other people milling around with the same anxiety look on their faces.
The tour bus is comfortable. The driver is enthusiastic and wears his clan's kilt. This is his last tour before marriage and honeymoon in Florida within days.
The group is not talkative or social. We select seats more to the front. The tour is about 35 people. We are going to be together until 5PM.
We pull out. I am always impressed with how these drivers can maneuver these large vehicles through narrow streets. I will always be in awe of the bus drivers of Florence.
This driver is almost as impressive. As we leave the city and enter the suburbs, we hit a traffic jam. The road in front of us is under repair with a lane closed. We inch forward until the driver decides that the schedule is being affected.
He turns left into a residential street. Left, right, left again, right one more time. Back and forth. The streets have sharp turns. There are cars parked. Streets are for cars, not buses.
The driver is confident as works his way around the jam. He has been told by his dispatcher the location of the repair work. After about ten minutes, we again turn left on to the main road.
Rivers are the personality of Scotland. Rivers have been the natural defense of Scotland. We are in Low Country. There are no mountains. To a Scot, the rivers are omnipresent.
The first sites described by the driver/tour guide are the bridges across the Firth of Forth. The Forth River is a wide, fast moving river and slightly less than 2 miles in width. The Forth Bridge (the other bridge is a rail bridge) is impressive with a length of over two and half miles. It is considered a symbol of the New Scotland and renewed Scottish pride. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The bridge crosses over to Dunfermline. Dumfermline is 3 miles from the Firth of Forth and is on the "high ground". Our goal is the Dunfermline church which occupies the site of the medieval Benedictine abbey (and why the church is referred to as Dumfermline Abbey).
The town was the royal capital of Scotland until the 1437 when the capital was moved to Edinburgh Castle.
The church overlooks the river and the town. The church is an active parish. The abbey (parts of infrastructure remain) was completed in 1250. The abbey was sacked in 1560 during the Scottish Reformation (nice term for murder, torture and burning). The nave was spared and forms the Vestibule of the new church (1821).
And why - is this of import - Robert the Bruce body minus his heart (buried, finally, at his request at Melrose Abbey) is buried here. There are a great many kings, queens and notables also entombed here. But, the tours come for The Bruce.
Down the hill is the birthplace of Andrew Carnegie. There is a "free" museum.
Back in the bus, we travel to Sterling Castle. The weather is sunny, but blustery. Sterling Castle was recommended by John and Angela on their journey last year.
Stirling Castle has been the focal point of Scottish history. It is defensive structure sits on top of Castle Hill surrounded on three sides by cliffs. Historically, it guarded the farthest downstream crossing of the River Forth.
Construction began in early 12th century with the majority built between 1490 and 1600. The castle was the key to invading Scotland and to the defense against those English invasions during the Wars of Scottish Independence. Several Scottish Kings and Queens resided here. It is the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots.
William Wallace defeated the English at the Battle of Stirling Bridge. Robert the Bruce defeated King Edward I at Stirling Castle. The Battle of Bannockburn was fought within sight of the walls of the castle.
The castle was enhanced by the Stewart Kings. The castle's living quarters now reflects this period.
As with Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle is now a series of exhibits in dedicated buildings. The size of the building's exterior belies the size of the rooms in the interior. I am guessing that is the problem with building with large stones. There is also that we are only seeing a portion of the structures rooms. At Hampton Court, there is a tour of the support - kitchen, wine storage, pantries - to give you an idea of the amount of expenses and effort to keep the castle comfortable for the nobility and house and fed a huge staff.
I know we ate somewhere, but I cannot remember.
It is now very blustery. At 3 PM, we stop briefly at the memorial park for the Battle of Bannockburn. The exact location for the battle is lost. The park is an educated guess and looks out over the topography and gives you an idea of the land. Like other historical battlefields, civility has grown up around the event. The park is on an major road with businesses on either side of the entrance to the parking lot and Tourist Center. Across the street is a residential neighborhood.
I saw the movie - The Da Vinci Code. I have read the book. The last stop is Rosslyn Chapel. We are running late. Where are we?
My vision is a chapel located in the wild heather of Scotland. A large brooding stone structure isolated from all but God, the Knights Templar and Dan Brown.
The Chapel is the last stop on our tour. We are in suburbia. Lawns and stop lights. Roslin is seven miles from Edinburgh. We have almost completed the circle back to Caffe Nero.
We pull into the parking lot (I don't remember Tom Hanks pulling into a tourist parking lot). We pass through the tourist center (anyone remember a tourist center being mentioned by Dan Brown). Actually, there was not when Dan Brown wrote the book.
The 15th century structure exterior size belies the interior size. The Lady chapel is not large. This is the family church and crypt of the Sinclair family. Construction began in 1465. After the Scottish Reformation, the chapel remained a private chapel until 1861. Interestingly, the Sinclair family remained Catholic during this private period.
Queen Victoria visit in 1842 began the resurrection of the chapel from ruins by the Sinclair family.
The chapel is now part of Scottish Episcopal Church and is an active place of worship. Photography is strenuously prohibited (photos in the gift shop).
We have arrived at an advantageous time. Extensive restoration that began in 1997 was completed 2013.
The chapel has more interesting features per square feet than any other church we have visited. There is the Apprentice Pillar, the intricate 213 cravings, the 110 "Green Men" and the Crypt. There are rumors of hidden doors and rooms. In 2010, abandoned bee hives were discovered in the rooftop pinnacles.
There is nothing direct. There is a sense that the master mason(s) has pulled off one of the longest running practical jokes in history. But, then I have a sense of humor that would understand.
A great part of the mystery is the Sinclair family itself. Part of the mystery is that the Sinclair family's roots in Norway not Celtic. Also, during English/Scottish history, there seems continually to be a Sinclair in the background.
The cravings and inscriptions are not easy to read. It is soft stone. They have eroded by time (and I am sure the lack of a roof when in ruins). You miss a lot on the nuances and have to rely on the plagues.
We arrived within a 30-45 minutes of closing at 5PM. As the Visitor Center closes its doors behind us.
The tour was well worth in time.
We decide to treat ourselves to a supper out. John and Angela recommended a restaurant on George IV Bridge Street called Ondine. It is an excellent seafood restaurant on the second floor with a view of St Giles stain glass windows. We do not have a reservation. It is early enough to get a seating. Our server is Russian immigrate. During our trip, we found that the major immigrate group supplying the hospitality industry are eastern European and Russia.
She is young and talkative. After her second visit, she is reminded by Matre D' that there are other tables. The restaurant fills quickly. We are hungry and tired so it is a quick meal and back to the hotel.
Tomorrow, the Castle.
Betty had planned ahead and has a full day tour reserved for us. We do not drive. We rely on public transportation. The limitation is that you miss the sites that can only be reached by car.
We leave the hotel around 8 AM. The Highland Experience tour bus loads at 8:30 and leaves 9 AM from Cafe Nero in the Old Parliament area. I am a little confused by the exact location since we have only an address. I rush Betty and take an indirect route. We still arrive about fifteen minutes early with time for coffee.
This corner is the central departure point for tour buses leaving Edinburgh. This side of the Royal Mile (Edinburgh Castle and St Giles Church) is blocked off from vehicular traffic except from 7AM to 9AM for the various tour buses. I am starting to relax. There are other people milling around with the same anxiety look on their faces.
The tour bus is comfortable. The driver is enthusiastic and wears his clan's kilt. This is his last tour before marriage and honeymoon in Florida within days.
The group is not talkative or social. We select seats more to the front. The tour is about 35 people. We are going to be together until 5PM.
We pull out. I am always impressed with how these drivers can maneuver these large vehicles through narrow streets. I will always be in awe of the bus drivers of Florence.
This driver is almost as impressive. As we leave the city and enter the suburbs, we hit a traffic jam. The road in front of us is under repair with a lane closed. We inch forward until the driver decides that the schedule is being affected.
He turns left into a residential street. Left, right, left again, right one more time. Back and forth. The streets have sharp turns. There are cars parked. Streets are for cars, not buses.
The driver is confident as works his way around the jam. He has been told by his dispatcher the location of the repair work. After about ten minutes, we again turn left on to the main road.
Rivers are the personality of Scotland. Rivers have been the natural defense of Scotland. We are in Low Country. There are no mountains. To a Scot, the rivers are omnipresent.
The first sites described by the driver/tour guide are the bridges across the Firth of Forth. The Forth River is a wide, fast moving river and slightly less than 2 miles in width. The Forth Bridge (the other bridge is a rail bridge) is impressive with a length of over two and half miles. It is considered a symbol of the New Scotland and renewed Scottish pride. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The bridge crosses over to Dunfermline. Dumfermline is 3 miles from the Firth of Forth and is on the "high ground". Our goal is the Dunfermline church which occupies the site of the medieval Benedictine abbey (and why the church is referred to as Dumfermline Abbey).
The town was the royal capital of Scotland until the 1437 when the capital was moved to Edinburgh Castle.
The church overlooks the river and the town. The church is an active parish. The abbey (parts of infrastructure remain) was completed in 1250. The abbey was sacked in 1560 during the Scottish Reformation (nice term for murder, torture and burning). The nave was spared and forms the Vestibule of the new church (1821).
And why - is this of import - Robert the Bruce body minus his heart (buried, finally, at his request at Melrose Abbey) is buried here. There are a great many kings, queens and notables also entombed here. But, the tours come for The Bruce.
Down the hill is the birthplace of Andrew Carnegie. There is a "free" museum.
Back in the bus, we travel to Sterling Castle. The weather is sunny, but blustery. Sterling Castle was recommended by John and Angela on their journey last year.
Stirling Castle has been the focal point of Scottish history. It is defensive structure sits on top of Castle Hill surrounded on three sides by cliffs. Historically, it guarded the farthest downstream crossing of the River Forth.
Construction began in early 12th century with the majority built between 1490 and 1600. The castle was the key to invading Scotland and to the defense against those English invasions during the Wars of Scottish Independence. Several Scottish Kings and Queens resided here. It is the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots.
William Wallace defeated the English at the Battle of Stirling Bridge. Robert the Bruce defeated King Edward I at Stirling Castle. The Battle of Bannockburn was fought within sight of the walls of the castle.
The castle was enhanced by the Stewart Kings. The castle's living quarters now reflects this period.
As with Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle is now a series of exhibits in dedicated buildings. The size of the building's exterior belies the size of the rooms in the interior. I am guessing that is the problem with building with large stones. There is also that we are only seeing a portion of the structures rooms. At Hampton Court, there is a tour of the support - kitchen, wine storage, pantries - to give you an idea of the amount of expenses and effort to keep the castle comfortable for the nobility and house and fed a huge staff.
I know we ate somewhere, but I cannot remember.
It is now very blustery. At 3 PM, we stop briefly at the memorial park for the Battle of Bannockburn. The exact location for the battle is lost. The park is an educated guess and looks out over the topography and gives you an idea of the land. Like other historical battlefields, civility has grown up around the event. The park is on an major road with businesses on either side of the entrance to the parking lot and Tourist Center. Across the street is a residential neighborhood.
I saw the movie - The Da Vinci Code. I have read the book. The last stop is Rosslyn Chapel. We are running late. Where are we?
My vision is a chapel located in the wild heather of Scotland. A large brooding stone structure isolated from all but God, the Knights Templar and Dan Brown.
The Chapel is the last stop on our tour. We are in suburbia. Lawns and stop lights. Roslin is seven miles from Edinburgh. We have almost completed the circle back to Caffe Nero.
We pull into the parking lot (I don't remember Tom Hanks pulling into a tourist parking lot). We pass through the tourist center (anyone remember a tourist center being mentioned by Dan Brown). Actually, there was not when Dan Brown wrote the book.
The 15th century structure exterior size belies the interior size. The Lady chapel is not large. This is the family church and crypt of the Sinclair family. Construction began in 1465. After the Scottish Reformation, the chapel remained a private chapel until 1861. Interestingly, the Sinclair family remained Catholic during this private period.
Queen Victoria visit in 1842 began the resurrection of the chapel from ruins by the Sinclair family.
The chapel is now part of Scottish Episcopal Church and is an active place of worship. Photography is strenuously prohibited (photos in the gift shop).
We have arrived at an advantageous time. Extensive restoration that began in 1997 was completed 2013.
The chapel has more interesting features per square feet than any other church we have visited. There is the Apprentice Pillar, the intricate 213 cravings, the 110 "Green Men" and the Crypt. There are rumors of hidden doors and rooms. In 2010, abandoned bee hives were discovered in the rooftop pinnacles.
There is nothing direct. There is a sense that the master mason(s) has pulled off one of the longest running practical jokes in history. But, then I have a sense of humor that would understand.
A great part of the mystery is the Sinclair family itself. Part of the mystery is that the Sinclair family's roots in Norway not Celtic. Also, during English/Scottish history, there seems continually to be a Sinclair in the background.
The cravings and inscriptions are not easy to read. It is soft stone. They have eroded by time (and I am sure the lack of a roof when in ruins). You miss a lot on the nuances and have to rely on the plagues.
We arrived within a 30-45 minutes of closing at 5PM. As the Visitor Center closes its doors behind us.
The tour was well worth in time.
We decide to treat ourselves to a supper out. John and Angela recommended a restaurant on George IV Bridge Street called Ondine. It is an excellent seafood restaurant on the second floor with a view of St Giles stain glass windows. We do not have a reservation. It is early enough to get a seating. Our server is Russian immigrate. During our trip, we found that the major immigrate group supplying the hospitality industry are eastern European and Russia.
She is young and talkative. After her second visit, she is reminded by Matre D' that there are other tables. The restaurant fills quickly. We are hungry and tired so it is a quick meal and back to the hotel.
Tomorrow, the Castle.
Wednesday, February 6, 2019
"There is something at work in my soul, which I do not understand"
Sunday in Edinburgh, Scotland.
The self service laundromat opens at 8 AM. I think...I believe...I hope. It is down to the end of the block and turn left.
We have no choice. We need to have clean clothes. After visiting laundromats in Florence, Rome and Dublin and doing laundry in apartments in multiple cities, I still not confident. There is always the difference in money - enough coins and functionality of the machines.
With my shopping bags of dirty clothes, I walk to the end of block and turn left onto South Bridge Street. I am walking away from the tourist area and towards civilian gentrified Edinburgh.
Nothing is open No coffee. I have an address. After a few blocks, I realize that again streets in Europe constantly change names. I am less confident.
I walk past the laundromat and walk back two blocks. There are a lot of interesting restaurants and stores.
There are two other people already at the machines. I buy detergent packets. Separate the bundles. Pick two machines and load. God, I hope I have enough money. There is no ATM handy. The machines are expensive. This is going to be about 11 pounds sterling. My salvation is that there is an attendant. A "take no prisoner" majordomo is in charge. She tolerates me. I go to a coffee shop as the machines dry. She is in charge.
I love laundromats. I know I stand out among the regulars. But, still it is a great place to people watch. Maybe, Viking Tours could have a river tour of "River Cruises of Danube Laundromats".
I sort and fold the laundry. I decide to walk a slightly different way home. More coffee shops have opened. Now, there are a lot of coffee shops. No tea shops, just coffee shops. Again, as in London, these coffee bars seem to be owned by young entrepreneurs who believe that they have the marketing and branding skills to win over the public.
There are fast food and franchises in Scotland. Your choices include KFC, Subway, Domino Pizza, Papa John's Pizza, Pizza Hut - notice a trend here.
I am back by 10:30AM. I now know that to find "Old Town" and "New Town" turn to the right. Betty has a much better idea of what to do and see in Edinburgh.
We turn right. We are now on Nicholson Street (turn left, it is South Bridge Street). The road is also A7 if you driving up from North West England.
The College of Surgeons was founded in 1505 when the Barber Surgeons of Edinburgh were incorporated as a Guild. Haircut, amputation, tooth pulled - that is Out Patient Surgery in its infancy.
The College of Surgeons and body snatching are notoriously synonyms. Surgeons needed to study the human anatomy and they were short of volunteers. In 1828, John Knox (not that one) paid William Hare and William Burke for 28 bodies that were murdered in Burke's lodging house.
And, yes, Mary Shelley did spend part of her child in Scotland and Edinburgh .
The College's Museum is interesting - sort of . An interesting exhibit is the preserved parts of human anatomy in jars. Want to see a diseased kidney? How about a brain? A penis? All at various levels of health.
There is an exhibit of the tools of the trade - saws, picks and scalpels.
Then, lunch at the City Restaurant across the street.
It is a pleasant sunny day. We are walking towards High Street. This is the Royal Mile (the heart of "Old Town" Edinburgh). The Royal Mile is a series of streets between Holyrood Palace and Edinburgh Castle. Stores that cater to tourists and restaurants line High Street. Scottish wools of different qualities and costs are displayed.
We turn right and window shop. This side of the Royal Mile focuses on tourists and souvenirs. A lot of comparative shopping and a knowledge of fine wool would not hurt.
We walk up the other side of High St past John Knox's Home/Museum (yes, that one) to the faint sound of bag pipes. Bag pipes are remarkable instruments. How does anyone learn to play?
We cross Nicholson Street. The sound is louder. It is one gentleman playing. He is in kilts and making a living as a street performer.
On the corner, is a church converted in a community store focused on local trades. This side of High Street, there are open barricades that when closed prohibit foot traffic. The autos are limited to cabs and buses (tourist buses have to out by 8AM).
We now walking towards Edinburgh Castle. Edinburgh Castle is built on an extinct volcano and you climb. Edinburgh is a series of hills and increasing elevation. You are constantly climbing steep streets and walkways. We pass statues of Sir Walter Scott, Adam Smith and David Hume. At the Old Parliament Building, we began our retreat to the hotel.
Tomorrow, What to do on a Monday in Edinburgh.
The self service laundromat opens at 8 AM. I think...I believe...I hope. It is down to the end of the block and turn left.
We have no choice. We need to have clean clothes. After visiting laundromats in Florence, Rome and Dublin and doing laundry in apartments in multiple cities, I still not confident. There is always the difference in money - enough coins and functionality of the machines.
With my shopping bags of dirty clothes, I walk to the end of block and turn left onto South Bridge Street. I am walking away from the tourist area and towards civilian gentrified Edinburgh.
Nothing is open No coffee. I have an address. After a few blocks, I realize that again streets in Europe constantly change names. I am less confident.
I walk past the laundromat and walk back two blocks. There are a lot of interesting restaurants and stores.
There are two other people already at the machines. I buy detergent packets. Separate the bundles. Pick two machines and load. God, I hope I have enough money. There is no ATM handy. The machines are expensive. This is going to be about 11 pounds sterling. My salvation is that there is an attendant. A "take no prisoner" majordomo is in charge. She tolerates me. I go to a coffee shop as the machines dry. She is in charge.
I love laundromats. I know I stand out among the regulars. But, still it is a great place to people watch. Maybe, Viking Tours could have a river tour of "River Cruises of Danube Laundromats".
I sort and fold the laundry. I decide to walk a slightly different way home. More coffee shops have opened. Now, there are a lot of coffee shops. No tea shops, just coffee shops. Again, as in London, these coffee bars seem to be owned by young entrepreneurs who believe that they have the marketing and branding skills to win over the public.
There are fast food and franchises in Scotland. Your choices include KFC, Subway, Domino Pizza, Papa John's Pizza, Pizza Hut - notice a trend here.
I am back by 10:30AM. I now know that to find "Old Town" and "New Town" turn to the right. Betty has a much better idea of what to do and see in Edinburgh.
We turn right. We are now on Nicholson Street (turn left, it is South Bridge Street). The road is also A7 if you driving up from North West England.
The College of Surgeons was founded in 1505 when the Barber Surgeons of Edinburgh were incorporated as a Guild. Haircut, amputation, tooth pulled - that is Out Patient Surgery in its infancy.
The College of Surgeons and body snatching are notoriously synonyms. Surgeons needed to study the human anatomy and they were short of volunteers. In 1828, John Knox (not that one) paid William Hare and William Burke for 28 bodies that were murdered in Burke's lodging house.
And, yes, Mary Shelley did spend part of her child in Scotland and Edinburgh .
The College's Museum is interesting - sort of . An interesting exhibit is the preserved parts of human anatomy in jars. Want to see a diseased kidney? How about a brain? A penis? All at various levels of health.
There is an exhibit of the tools of the trade - saws, picks and scalpels.
Then, lunch at the City Restaurant across the street.
It is a pleasant sunny day. We are walking towards High Street. This is the Royal Mile (the heart of "Old Town" Edinburgh). The Royal Mile is a series of streets between Holyrood Palace and Edinburgh Castle. Stores that cater to tourists and restaurants line High Street. Scottish wools of different qualities and costs are displayed.
We turn right and window shop. This side of the Royal Mile focuses on tourists and souvenirs. A lot of comparative shopping and a knowledge of fine wool would not hurt.
We walk up the other side of High St past John Knox's Home/Museum (yes, that one) to the faint sound of bag pipes. Bag pipes are remarkable instruments. How does anyone learn to play?
We cross Nicholson Street. The sound is louder. It is one gentleman playing. He is in kilts and making a living as a street performer.
On the corner, is a church converted in a community store focused on local trades. This side of High Street, there are open barricades that when closed prohibit foot traffic. The autos are limited to cabs and buses (tourist buses have to out by 8AM).
We now walking towards Edinburgh Castle. Edinburgh Castle is built on an extinct volcano and you climb. Edinburgh is a series of hills and increasing elevation. You are constantly climbing steep streets and walkways. We pass statues of Sir Walter Scott, Adam Smith and David Hume. At the Old Parliament Building, we began our retreat to the hotel.
Tomorrow, What to do on a Monday in Edinburgh.
Monday, February 4, 2019
"Piled deep and massy, close and high: Mine own romantic town"
Again, the cab arrives on time.
I got up early and tried to find coffee at 7 AM. Apparently, Temple Bar parties hard and sleeps to 9 AM. Nothing appears open.
After about fifteen minutes of walking, I find a shop just opening. The two guys at the counter are quick to help. If we ever go back to Temple Bar, definitely added to my list of places to eat.
We have packed last night and we are ready to go. I go down to check out. I check the cab progress on the app. He is around the corner.
Where are Betty and Bill? It is a small hotel with one way up and down. Betty's foot is still sore so she is not using the stairs. I hurry back to the room. They are gone. Where are they? I tell the cab driver that we will be there shortly.
Apparently, there are two elevators. That makes sense - two buildings. Both Betty and Bill followed the corridor to the left and used that elevator which took them to the back of the building. They had to retrace their steps. They appear in the lobby.
Quickly, we load the cab. We have plenty of time. It is Saturday so we are not certain as to how crowded the airport will be. Bill is flying home and, therefore, security will be tighter. We are flying to Edinburgh, Scotland.
My concern is that we are flying Ryanair and all that implies. Media is full of horror stories. Trouble with carry on luggage; over booked and etc. I did purchase upgrades. The price even with upgrades was great.
We drop Bill off at the Aer Lingus terminal. We circle around to the terminal for Ryanair. Shannon Airport is much bigger than I thought it would. From my limited experience, Major European airports are huge. I know that we are told that US airports compare unfavorably to European. I will take O'Hare any day. Plan to walk a mile.
We enter the security line. The line is jammed but it moves well. All the airports use full body scans. The security is well staffed which contributes to the efficiency. The security is more intense that our trip in 2016. Shoes off. Toiletry bag out. Pat downs are often.
Now, we march. After leaving security, you follow fellow travelers to the "duty free" zone. As opposed to US where airports have become mini-shopping malls on the way to the gate. European "Duty Free" is a circular route that you cannot avoid. It is more of a bazaar. A temple to "Duty Free". There is no direct route.
You ignore temptations, but you are still no closer to your gate. You have entered the Food Zone. The Zone is really a general and large seating area. In Europe, they do not post the gates until twenty minutes before boarding. You have no choice but to sit and wait. You watch the screens for the gate announcement.
Betty and I find seats. Stow our carry-ons. And, get something to eat.
Our flight appears on the screen. Now, you walk. I am guessing about a third of a mile to the gate area.
Now, this is when I will find out if I did the reservations correctly. And, travel Ryanair.
It goes very smoothly. We have reserved seating and priority boarding (important to gain that all important overhead luggage storage space) The gate staff are efficient and helpful. The seats are better than US air carriers - more space.
There is no question as to the dimensions of our carry-ons. It appears that everyone complies. We know that Betty's luggage will pass. Betty purchased specifically to conform to EU limits. I purchased with a less attention to details.
There are a lot larger luggage being carried on. If it fits the overhead bin, you seem to be fine.
The flight to Edinburgh is a little over an hour. The flight is quick. Our first view of Scotland, it is green and pastoral.
Edinburgh airport is more of a regional airport, They use a stairway to exit the plane and walk to the gate.
A quick walk through the airport, we now face that constant problem - how do we get to the hotel. Edinburgh has no Underground. Transportation is by auto or bus.
The airport has a Tourist Kiosk as you exit the airport. The bus is cost efficient, but since we are not familiar with Edinburgh and the location of hotel. The decision is cab. You guessed correctly - more walking.
The cab driver is a nice guy and proud of his city. It is a dialogue as we move through suburban Edinburgh. The population of Edinburgh is about 483,000. The route into Edinburgh is by local streets.
Ten Hill Place Hotel is owned by the Edinburgh College of Surgeons. The location is excellent. The hotel is located on the edge of New Town (18th-19th Century) and very near to Old Town (Medieval and Reformation).
The room is spacious by European standards. We have mixed opinions. The bathroom is very large. It is a handicap room. The shower (there is no bath tub) is designed for a wheelchair.
We unpack. I am on the Internet to locate a self serve laundromat. It has been two weeks and there is a lot of laundry. There appears to be two. Now, where? Tomorrow is Sunday. When do they open? Remembering the Dublin experience, are they really self service? Can I find one?
I decide to have a congratulatory drink downstairs. The barmen are friendly. It appears that the younger bartender is in training.
On any bucket list of Scotland, a whiskey tasting is in the top five. I want to learn but tastings are expensive and I am confident that a sale pitch is on the agenda. Also, Betty is not interested. My decision is to visit various bars during our Scotland tour and taste one whiskey at a time.
I order a beer. It is local. After Ireland, I am interested in local beers. And, after a long travel, a beer works.
Then, I have a whiskey. I did not realize how many whiskeys there are. I was aware of Highlands (smokey) and Lowlands (smooth). There are about four other regional types of single malts ( the single malt saved Scotland) and that does not include the blends. The regions can be loosely defined (by me) as to the amount of peat (smoke taste) in the drink.
My first whiskey is from Campbeltown. I am not a fan of whiskies with strong peat favor. Campbeltown region is a good compromise. I had seen a television travel log that a drop of water releases the flavors. I am not sure about that, but it does smooth out the smokey taste.
Dinner is takeout in the room.
Tomorrow - body snatchers.
I got up early and tried to find coffee at 7 AM. Apparently, Temple Bar parties hard and sleeps to 9 AM. Nothing appears open.
After about fifteen minutes of walking, I find a shop just opening. The two guys at the counter are quick to help. If we ever go back to Temple Bar, definitely added to my list of places to eat.
We have packed last night and we are ready to go. I go down to check out. I check the cab progress on the app. He is around the corner.
Where are Betty and Bill? It is a small hotel with one way up and down. Betty's foot is still sore so she is not using the stairs. I hurry back to the room. They are gone. Where are they? I tell the cab driver that we will be there shortly.
Apparently, there are two elevators. That makes sense - two buildings. Both Betty and Bill followed the corridor to the left and used that elevator which took them to the back of the building. They had to retrace their steps. They appear in the lobby.
Quickly, we load the cab. We have plenty of time. It is Saturday so we are not certain as to how crowded the airport will be. Bill is flying home and, therefore, security will be tighter. We are flying to Edinburgh, Scotland.
My concern is that we are flying Ryanair and all that implies. Media is full of horror stories. Trouble with carry on luggage; over booked and etc. I did purchase upgrades. The price even with upgrades was great.
We drop Bill off at the Aer Lingus terminal. We circle around to the terminal for Ryanair. Shannon Airport is much bigger than I thought it would. From my limited experience, Major European airports are huge. I know that we are told that US airports compare unfavorably to European. I will take O'Hare any day. Plan to walk a mile.
We enter the security line. The line is jammed but it moves well. All the airports use full body scans. The security is well staffed which contributes to the efficiency. The security is more intense that our trip in 2016. Shoes off. Toiletry bag out. Pat downs are often.
Now, we march. After leaving security, you follow fellow travelers to the "duty free" zone. As opposed to US where airports have become mini-shopping malls on the way to the gate. European "Duty Free" is a circular route that you cannot avoid. It is more of a bazaar. A temple to "Duty Free". There is no direct route.
You ignore temptations, but you are still no closer to your gate. You have entered the Food Zone. The Zone is really a general and large seating area. In Europe, they do not post the gates until twenty minutes before boarding. You have no choice but to sit and wait. You watch the screens for the gate announcement.
Betty and I find seats. Stow our carry-ons. And, get something to eat.
Our flight appears on the screen. Now, you walk. I am guessing about a third of a mile to the gate area.
Now, this is when I will find out if I did the reservations correctly. And, travel Ryanair.
It goes very smoothly. We have reserved seating and priority boarding (important to gain that all important overhead luggage storage space) The gate staff are efficient and helpful. The seats are better than US air carriers - more space.
There is no question as to the dimensions of our carry-ons. It appears that everyone complies. We know that Betty's luggage will pass. Betty purchased specifically to conform to EU limits. I purchased with a less attention to details.
There are a lot larger luggage being carried on. If it fits the overhead bin, you seem to be fine.
The flight to Edinburgh is a little over an hour. The flight is quick. Our first view of Scotland, it is green and pastoral.
Edinburgh airport is more of a regional airport, They use a stairway to exit the plane and walk to the gate.
A quick walk through the airport, we now face that constant problem - how do we get to the hotel. Edinburgh has no Underground. Transportation is by auto or bus.
The airport has a Tourist Kiosk as you exit the airport. The bus is cost efficient, but since we are not familiar with Edinburgh and the location of hotel. The decision is cab. You guessed correctly - more walking.
The cab driver is a nice guy and proud of his city. It is a dialogue as we move through suburban Edinburgh. The population of Edinburgh is about 483,000. The route into Edinburgh is by local streets.
Ten Hill Place Hotel is owned by the Edinburgh College of Surgeons. The location is excellent. The hotel is located on the edge of New Town (18th-19th Century) and very near to Old Town (Medieval and Reformation).
The room is spacious by European standards. We have mixed opinions. The bathroom is very large. It is a handicap room. The shower (there is no bath tub) is designed for a wheelchair.
We unpack. I am on the Internet to locate a self serve laundromat. It has been two weeks and there is a lot of laundry. There appears to be two. Now, where? Tomorrow is Sunday. When do they open? Remembering the Dublin experience, are they really self service? Can I find one?
I decide to have a congratulatory drink downstairs. The barmen are friendly. It appears that the younger bartender is in training.
On any bucket list of Scotland, a whiskey tasting is in the top five. I want to learn but tastings are expensive and I am confident that a sale pitch is on the agenda. Also, Betty is not interested. My decision is to visit various bars during our Scotland tour and taste one whiskey at a time.
I order a beer. It is local. After Ireland, I am interested in local beers. And, after a long travel, a beer works.
Then, I have a whiskey. I did not realize how many whiskeys there are. I was aware of Highlands (smokey) and Lowlands (smooth). There are about four other regional types of single malts ( the single malt saved Scotland) and that does not include the blends. The regions can be loosely defined (by me) as to the amount of peat (smoke taste) in the drink.
My first whiskey is from Campbeltown. I am not a fan of whiskies with strong peat favor. Campbeltown region is a good compromise. I had seen a television travel log that a drop of water releases the flavors. I am not sure about that, but it does smooth out the smokey taste.
Dinner is takeout in the room.
Tomorrow - body snatchers.
Saturday, February 2, 2019
Iarnrod Eireann (Irish Rail System) on Twitter "Due to severe weather, 50 mph limit to ......"
It is Friday in Wexford. The plan is a train to Dublin: stay overnight and flights Saturday morning.
We are tidy people. We strip the beds and fold the bedding. We clean the dishes, wash down the bathroom and take the garbage out.
Other than the lack of television, this rental has been excellent. The host was exceptional. The apartment was perfect. I have come to judge rentals by the bathrooms and, particularly, the showers. We notice that both in Dublin and Wexford - it is IKEA. That makes sense - size, style and price. IKEA is practical. Both owners have thought out the process - nothing valuable and easily breakable.
We have the 13:05 (1:05 PM) train to Dublin. The owner has an 11:00 vacant time. We are out before 10:30AM.
We know that the train station is within easy walking distance - across from Dunnes. We have wake up coffee at the apartment. The train may not have sandwiches and the train ride is a little over two hours.
We walk north on Main Street. There is small Coffee Shop /Sandwich Shop called Nosh. It must be popular judging from the large number of people inside.
We find a table. We are not the only people stopping to eat before the train to Dublin. There are suitcases and carryons on the floor. I order for us at the counter.
As I mentioned, I am a worrier on travel day. I would rather sit for two hours waiting than arrive just on time. The food arrives and I pick up at the counter. It is surprisingly good.
From our limited experience, Irish trains are on time. Wexford is the second to last stop from Dublin to Enniscorthy and the second stop when the train leaves Enniscorthy. The weather is clear and in the mid fifties.
When we arrive at the small station, there is not a notice about delays or cancellations. We have our return tickets so I do not panic when the station window is closed with note stating "return at'.
The station fills up quickly. We see people from Nosh. Since it Friday, I presume that our companions will be weekend tourists, professionals returning to Dublin and families. The station fills quickly. There is limited sitting inside and it is slightly chilly.
Caroline ran out of her limited Cellular service (500MB). I think that she has remarkable. She was able to manipulate 500MB for almost two weeks even though she was our go-to for directions and information. WIFI is ubiquitous in Europe. But, it is most often open networks which are dangerous. The networks are best in short term use and to sites where your private information is limited.
Betty and I have data left. We have been conservative in use since Betty and I have another two weeks in Scotland and England.
By 12:50, the station is full. I am not the only one nervous. Other travelers are checking the platform. The station window has opened and tickets are purchased. I realize later that trains, like autos, are on the left. They arrive on the opposite track. It is a small thing. But does make a difference on which side of the platform you wait. Everyone seems content. I am assured that we are on the right side for Dublin.
The train arrives on time. Since these are round trip tickets, my sin of poor seating arrangement returns. We are in standard coach (no WIFI). There is the luxury of double seats facing each other with a table between.
Unfortunately, my confusion has us sitting in a row formation.
Fortunately, the coach is not crowded. We pick a table and squat. The worst that happens we have to move.
The weather holds and we get a slightly better view of the countryside. The rail line is does not have the best vistas because of the vegetation growth on both sides of the rail. You can see where Irish Rail must frequently run large bush machines cutting the vines that intrude on the rail.
No snack cart.
Two hours and ten minutes later, we pull into Connelly station platform 5. We are confident. Then I am no longer as confident. How to find a cab and where is the hotel?
The Paramount Hotel is within 260 feet of Temple Bar (their website proudly announces). It is quick cab ride. All the cabs in London and Dublin have GPS systems - most seem to use cell phones.
How can you not find directions? Over half the drivers, seem to have no idea how to use GPS. My honest guess - for some it is our accents, lack of details on our part and, for others - this is an entry level job so there is the difficulty of translating the spoken word into written. I would have the same problem with Italian.
Of course, we do not have the address - only the name.
The hotel is very nice. Caroline needs to get up at 4:00 AM to catch the first of three flights home. So Caroline shares a room with us. As is the rule in all hotels - US and Europe (but especially, outside US) there are an insufficient number of outlets (hint for next trip - bring multiple plug ) to charge all of our electronics.
The hotel is actual two buildings with fire doors between. We are in the building closest to the intersection.
No one feels like going out for dinner. Bill, Caroline and I search for a McDonald's. American fast food is everywhere - plus we saw one earlier in the week (wow, was that really a few days ago).
McDonald's are always full - whether Rome, Florence, Milan - always. The menus are tailored to local taste so it takes a few seconds to decide. we eat and bring back to Betty.
We are in bed early. About 2 AM the Temple Bar pubs close and the party moves to the street. They are loud and having a lot of fun. Listening to them, you cannot get mad that you are awakened.
Off and on, I drop off to sleep. I am not certain how Caroline is holding up.
I have reserved a cab for her to the airport. I think I used a local on-line taxi app. I can see the cab on my iphone - it is ten minutes away. Caroline is very organized and is ready to go.
The cab arrives - the driver is very nice and I feel comfortable that Caroline will be alright. We had no idea of the journey and adventures she had in front of her.
Back up the elevator and to bed for a few hours sleep. We leave about 9AM - Bill's plane leaves a little over an hour before ours. He flies directly home. We fly to Edinburgh.
Tomorrow, Ryanair and Scotland
We are tidy people. We strip the beds and fold the bedding. We clean the dishes, wash down the bathroom and take the garbage out.
Other than the lack of television, this rental has been excellent. The host was exceptional. The apartment was perfect. I have come to judge rentals by the bathrooms and, particularly, the showers. We notice that both in Dublin and Wexford - it is IKEA. That makes sense - size, style and price. IKEA is practical. Both owners have thought out the process - nothing valuable and easily breakable.
We have the 13:05 (1:05 PM) train to Dublin. The owner has an 11:00 vacant time. We are out before 10:30AM.
We know that the train station is within easy walking distance - across from Dunnes. We have wake up coffee at the apartment. The train may not have sandwiches and the train ride is a little over two hours.
We walk north on Main Street. There is small Coffee Shop /Sandwich Shop called Nosh. It must be popular judging from the large number of people inside.
We find a table. We are not the only people stopping to eat before the train to Dublin. There are suitcases and carryons on the floor. I order for us at the counter.
As I mentioned, I am a worrier on travel day. I would rather sit for two hours waiting than arrive just on time. The food arrives and I pick up at the counter. It is surprisingly good.
From our limited experience, Irish trains are on time. Wexford is the second to last stop from Dublin to Enniscorthy and the second stop when the train leaves Enniscorthy. The weather is clear and in the mid fifties.
When we arrive at the small station, there is not a notice about delays or cancellations. We have our return tickets so I do not panic when the station window is closed with note stating "return at'.
The station fills up quickly. We see people from Nosh. Since it Friday, I presume that our companions will be weekend tourists, professionals returning to Dublin and families. The station fills quickly. There is limited sitting inside and it is slightly chilly.
Caroline ran out of her limited Cellular service (500MB). I think that she has remarkable. She was able to manipulate 500MB for almost two weeks even though she was our go-to for directions and information. WIFI is ubiquitous in Europe. But, it is most often open networks which are dangerous. The networks are best in short term use and to sites where your private information is limited.
Betty and I have data left. We have been conservative in use since Betty and I have another two weeks in Scotland and England.
By 12:50, the station is full. I am not the only one nervous. Other travelers are checking the platform. The station window has opened and tickets are purchased. I realize later that trains, like autos, are on the left. They arrive on the opposite track. It is a small thing. But does make a difference on which side of the platform you wait. Everyone seems content. I am assured that we are on the right side for Dublin.
The train arrives on time. Since these are round trip tickets, my sin of poor seating arrangement returns. We are in standard coach (no WIFI). There is the luxury of double seats facing each other with a table between.
Unfortunately, my confusion has us sitting in a row formation.
Fortunately, the coach is not crowded. We pick a table and squat. The worst that happens we have to move.
The weather holds and we get a slightly better view of the countryside. The rail line is does not have the best vistas because of the vegetation growth on both sides of the rail. You can see where Irish Rail must frequently run large bush machines cutting the vines that intrude on the rail.
No snack cart.
Two hours and ten minutes later, we pull into Connelly station platform 5. We are confident. Then I am no longer as confident. How to find a cab and where is the hotel?
The Paramount Hotel is within 260 feet of Temple Bar (their website proudly announces). It is quick cab ride. All the cabs in London and Dublin have GPS systems - most seem to use cell phones.
How can you not find directions? Over half the drivers, seem to have no idea how to use GPS. My honest guess - for some it is our accents, lack of details on our part and, for others - this is an entry level job so there is the difficulty of translating the spoken word into written. I would have the same problem with Italian.
Of course, we do not have the address - only the name.
The hotel is very nice. Caroline needs to get up at 4:00 AM to catch the first of three flights home. So Caroline shares a room with us. As is the rule in all hotels - US and Europe (but especially, outside US) there are an insufficient number of outlets (hint for next trip - bring multiple plug ) to charge all of our electronics.
The hotel is actual two buildings with fire doors between. We are in the building closest to the intersection.
No one feels like going out for dinner. Bill, Caroline and I search for a McDonald's. American fast food is everywhere - plus we saw one earlier in the week (wow, was that really a few days ago).
McDonald's are always full - whether Rome, Florence, Milan - always. The menus are tailored to local taste so it takes a few seconds to decide. we eat and bring back to Betty.
We are in bed early. About 2 AM the Temple Bar pubs close and the party moves to the street. They are loud and having a lot of fun. Listening to them, you cannot get mad that you are awakened.
Off and on, I drop off to sleep. I am not certain how Caroline is holding up.
I have reserved a cab for her to the airport. I think I used a local on-line taxi app. I can see the cab on my iphone - it is ten minutes away. Caroline is very organized and is ready to go.
The cab arrives - the driver is very nice and I feel comfortable that Caroline will be alright. We had no idea of the journey and adventures she had in front of her.
Back up the elevator and to bed for a few hours sleep. We leave about 9AM - Bill's plane leaves a little over an hour before ours. He flies directly home. We fly to Edinburgh.
Tomorrow, Ryanair and Scotland
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